Kingtech presents the all new T1 sports jet
03-07-2019, 01:46 PM
#1878
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Berkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
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6 Posts
Thanks for the ideas
Also how have people found the c of g and position of equipment, I have seen a lot of people are adding lead in the nose, I will be using a jet cat 140, and will put two receiver batteries and the ecu in the nose, but could put the UAT forward ? dont like adding lead if possible
Also how have people found the c of g and position of equipment, I have seen a lot of people are adding lead in the nose, I will be using a jet cat 140, and will put two receiver batteries and the ecu in the nose, but could put the UAT forward ? dont like adding lead if possible
03-07-2019, 02:09 PM
#1879
My Feedback: (53)
No lead in mine.....2x light 3100 li-ion RX (Jeti) and one 2100 2s Lipo for the smoke....the turbine batt was mounted on the nose at first I moved it back after the first day......turbine is a 2100 KingTech 3S life beside the nose door servo.....
03-07-2019, 03:51 PM
#1880
No lead in mine either. I also had the turbine battery in the nose but moved it back next to the nose wheel well. I have two fromeco 2600 mah battery packs (radio) in the nose plus two 1300 mah 2S Lipo battery packs (restricts/brakes) also in the nose. My smoke battery (2S 1300 lipo) is back next to the main tank.
03-07-2019, 03:51 PM
#1881
No lead in mine either. I also had the turbine battery in the nose but moved it back next to the nose wheel well. I have two fromeco 2600 mah battery packs (radio) in the nose plus two 1300 mah 2S Lipo battery packs (restricts/brakes) also in the nose. My smoke battery (2S 1300 lipo) is back next to the main tank.
03-08-2019, 02:28 PM
#1882
I had two 4000 mah hard case batts in the nose and the 2100 mah LiPO4 over the nose wheel. Also, had several ounces of lead in the nose. I found that as soon as the mains settled the nose wanted to come right down. Took out the lead for this coming year. Need to get it back on the scales to see what I did to the CG. But first I have to get the LG15 in the Ultra Flash and program it.
I did put an LG15 in the T-One. Took a while to set it up. But it sure appears to have cured the braking issues with the OEM controller. Also, took the magnets in the wheels out. They were causing the OEM controller to be nearly fully braked before the disc would snap out to the magnet. Then the brakes would lock up. Once they locked up, if you backed off on the brakes, then the braking was proportional. But by then it was already doing the "brake dance." With the new LG15, the discs move smooth as silk and the braking is finally proportional from the start. Also, if you move the nose off to the side a bit, you can see the brake releasing on the one side to keep it going straight. Also, the nose wheel turns a bit too. The LG15's ABS also actually works. Like I said, it took a while to set it up. But it appears to really work well. Can't wait to get it out on the field and fine tune its gyro.
I did put an LG15 in the T-One. Took a while to set it up. But it sure appears to have cured the braking issues with the OEM controller. Also, took the magnets in the wheels out. They were causing the OEM controller to be nearly fully braked before the disc would snap out to the magnet. Then the brakes would lock up. Once they locked up, if you backed off on the brakes, then the braking was proportional. But by then it was already doing the "brake dance." With the new LG15, the discs move smooth as silk and the braking is finally proportional from the start. Also, if you move the nose off to the side a bit, you can see the brake releasing on the one side to keep it going straight. Also, the nose wheel turns a bit too. The LG15's ABS also actually works. Like I said, it took a while to set it up. But it appears to really work well. Can't wait to get it out on the field and fine tune its gyro.
03-19-2019, 04:05 PM
#1883
I am considering this jet for my next project. I have a few questions for those who own one.
Does anyone use the thrust vectoring option in this jet?
Can this jet take a beating? Hi speed turns, uplines, full throttle passes?
Would a swiwin 190 be too much for this airframe?
Besides servo's, turbine and receiver, what else is required to get this kit up in the air?
How does the T1 compare to the predator? I know the predator is a little larger but how else?
Thanks,
Tone
Does anyone use the thrust vectoring option in this jet?
Can this jet take a beating? Hi speed turns, uplines, full throttle passes?
Would a swiwin 190 be too much for this airframe?
Besides servo's, turbine and receiver, what else is required to get this kit up in the air?
How does the T1 compare to the predator? I know the predator is a little larger but how else?
Thanks,
Tone
03-20-2019, 11:06 AM
#1885
I am considering this jet for my next project. I have a few questions for those who own one.
Does anyone use the thrust vectoring option in this jet? Not me.
Can this jet take a beating? Hi speed turns, uplines, full throttle passes? Yes, This has become my go to plane (i.e. easy and relaxing to fly even at high speeds.)
Would a swiwin 190 be too much for this airframe? I have a K160 and it is plenty. In a vertical, it won't stop until you pull the throttle back.
Besides servo's, turbine and receiver, what else is required to get this kit up in the air? I added the ETracts and ended up trashing the LG controller & added a LGC - 15. Braking was not very controllable with OEM LG Controller. The Egear is great. Batteries = use large ones in the nose instead of lead. Lined tunnel with alum tape, used snake skin for servo wires, servo extensions, probably a gyro if not using RXer with a built in gyro. Don't get the Nav lights. Ended up totally replacing those. But it was nice to have the cutouts and lenses in place. Using the smoke tank for extra fuel to get 10+ minutes. For the price, it is a great way to go.
How does the T1 compare to the predator? I know the predator is a little larger but how else? Don't know. But my T-One came in at 30+ pounds and lands like a dream. No unexpected tendencies (i.e. no unexpected snaps like one of my other planes.). T-One is not scale but is a lot of fun to fly. No manual or setup instructions. You kind of need to know what your doing or get some occasional help.
Thanks,
Tone
Does anyone use the thrust vectoring option in this jet? Not me.
Can this jet take a beating? Hi speed turns, uplines, full throttle passes? Yes, This has become my go to plane (i.e. easy and relaxing to fly even at high speeds.)
Would a swiwin 190 be too much for this airframe? I have a K160 and it is plenty. In a vertical, it won't stop until you pull the throttle back.
Besides servo's, turbine and receiver, what else is required to get this kit up in the air? I added the ETracts and ended up trashing the LG controller & added a LGC - 15. Braking was not very controllable with OEM LG Controller. The Egear is great. Batteries = use large ones in the nose instead of lead. Lined tunnel with alum tape, used snake skin for servo wires, servo extensions, probably a gyro if not using RXer with a built in gyro. Don't get the Nav lights. Ended up totally replacing those. But it was nice to have the cutouts and lenses in place. Using the smoke tank for extra fuel to get 10+ minutes. For the price, it is a great way to go.
How does the T1 compare to the predator? I know the predator is a little larger but how else? Don't know. But my T-One came in at 30+ pounds and lands like a dream. No unexpected tendencies (i.e. no unexpected snaps like one of my other planes.). T-One is not scale but is a lot of fun to fly. No manual or setup instructions. You kind of need to know what your doing or get some occasional help.
Thanks,
Tone
03-20-2019, 11:20 AM
#1886
Thanks alot Len for the detailed response. That is more of what I was looking for. I already have a 190n and was hoping to use the same turbine for the T-1. Did you use the T-1 electric retracts or did you use something else. I do not have much experience with air retracts but the upgrade price seems fairly large for electrics.
Tone
Tone
03-20-2019, 11:57 AM
#1887
I got the electric retracts. I like them and they held up well to over 40 flights with my first couple landing being a bit rough. Also, I know that Dirk has acquired some retract parts for stock.
The OEM Controller did not meet my expectations. There are permanent magnets in the hubs to hold the brake disk back off the electro-magnet. It takes so much power to get the disk moving off the permanent magnets that the brakes lock up as soon as the disk gets loose. Then if you back off a bit, the brakes free up and you have proportional braking. Unfortunately this effect gets your plane dancing around and makes it difficult to control. The LGC 15 is supposed to cure that with the Gyro based steering and braking, among other settings, etc.. I put in an LGC 15 in the T-One this winter. BTW: On the OEM electric retracts you have to add a voltage regulator and set the voltage down to ~ 7VDC, if you are using 2S LiPo.
Have not yet flown it with the LGC15 yet. But on the LGC 15's screen you can see the intended effects. Also, I can feel the brakes working evenly and being adjusted by the gyro. With the LGC15, there are adjustments for individual brakes and gains for the effects based on the gyro. I still have to get out on the runway and set the gains. One thing additional, ... I also took the permanent magnets out of the wheels and polished all the surfaces on the Disk as it is a stamped part with sharp edges and guide holes. I also took the sharpness off the threads on the guide screws and polished the surfaces of the disk. This helped a lot with the OEM controller. But, then I got fascinated with the Gyro controlling the nose wheel and braking, so I put the LGC 15 in. Both of my sport jets with electric gear now have LGC -15s.
If you pick an LGC15 up from PacificRC it comes with the programming for generic gear. Other suppliers have a program specific to the gear they sell. The only difference that I know about is the current limit setting. In the generic program you change this setting to match your gear. In the gear specific controllers, as I understand it, you can not change the current limit setting. It is easy to figure out the correct setting. Start out with Default, if the gear stops mid-travel, then bump the current limit up a bit one step at a time until they work. I also added one additional step after they worked.
Hope this answers any questions you may have about the electric gear. If I had to make the purchase over, I would still get the same gear. But I would ask Dirk about swapping out the controller. Otherwise, you will wind up like me with a drawer full of gear controllers that just don't seem to meet reasonable expectations w/o a ton of tech support to make them a bit better w/o ever reaching the point where they are working as they should be. We'll see in a week or so, when all the snow melts, if the LGC 15 is the magic bullet!
The OEM Controller did not meet my expectations. There are permanent magnets in the hubs to hold the brake disk back off the electro-magnet. It takes so much power to get the disk moving off the permanent magnets that the brakes lock up as soon as the disk gets loose. Then if you back off a bit, the brakes free up and you have proportional braking. Unfortunately this effect gets your plane dancing around and makes it difficult to control. The LGC 15 is supposed to cure that with the Gyro based steering and braking, among other settings, etc.. I put in an LGC 15 in the T-One this winter. BTW: On the OEM electric retracts you have to add a voltage regulator and set the voltage down to ~ 7VDC, if you are using 2S LiPo.
Have not yet flown it with the LGC15 yet. But on the LGC 15's screen you can see the intended effects. Also, I can feel the brakes working evenly and being adjusted by the gyro. With the LGC15, there are adjustments for individual brakes and gains for the effects based on the gyro. I still have to get out on the runway and set the gains. One thing additional, ... I also took the permanent magnets out of the wheels and polished all the surfaces on the Disk as it is a stamped part with sharp edges and guide holes. I also took the sharpness off the threads on the guide screws and polished the surfaces of the disk. This helped a lot with the OEM controller. But, then I got fascinated with the Gyro controlling the nose wheel and braking, so I put the LGC 15 in. Both of my sport jets with electric gear now have LGC -15s.
If you pick an LGC15 up from PacificRC it comes with the programming for generic gear. Other suppliers have a program specific to the gear they sell. The only difference that I know about is the current limit setting. In the generic program you change this setting to match your gear. In the gear specific controllers, as I understand it, you can not change the current limit setting. It is easy to figure out the correct setting. Start out with Default, if the gear stops mid-travel, then bump the current limit up a bit one step at a time until they work. I also added one additional step after they worked.
Hope this answers any questions you may have about the electric gear. If I had to make the purchase over, I would still get the same gear. But I would ask Dirk about swapping out the controller. Otherwise, you will wind up like me with a drawer full of gear controllers that just don't seem to meet reasonable expectations w/o a ton of tech support to make them a bit better w/o ever reaching the point where they are working as they should be. We'll see in a week or so, when all the snow melts, if the LGC 15 is the magic bullet!
03-20-2019, 02:40 PM
#1888
My Feedback: (4)
I got the electric retracts. I like them and they held up well to over 40 flights with my first couple landing being a bit rough. Also, I know that Dirk has acquired some retract parts for stock.
The OEM Controller did not meet my expectations. There are permanent magnets in the hubs to hold the brake disk back off the electro-magnet. It takes so much power to get the disk moving off the permanent magnets that the brakes lock up as soon as the disk gets loose. Then if you back off a bit, the brakes free up and you have proportional braking. Unfortunately this effect gets your plane dancing around and makes it difficult to control. The LGC 15 is supposed to cure that with the Gyro based steering and braking, among other settings, etc.. I put in an LGC 15 in the T-One this winter. BTW: On the OEM electric retracts you have to add a voltage regulator and set the voltage down to ~ 7VDC, if you are using 2S LiPo.
The OEM Controller did not meet my expectations. There are permanent magnets in the hubs to hold the brake disk back off the electro-magnet. It takes so much power to get the disk moving off the permanent magnets that the brakes lock up as soon as the disk gets loose. Then if you back off a bit, the brakes free up and you have proportional braking. Unfortunately this effect gets your plane dancing around and makes it difficult to control. The LGC 15 is supposed to cure that with the Gyro based steering and braking, among other settings, etc.. I put in an LGC 15 in the T-One this winter. BTW: On the OEM electric retracts you have to add a voltage regulator and set the voltage down to ~ 7VDC, if you are using 2S LiPo.
I wish I would have known about this when I received my T1. I could not get proportional breaking out of my T1 electric brakes so I am now using air brakes with electric gear. I may upgrade to a set of electrons, everyone says they work very well.
Patrick
03-20-2019, 05:23 PM
#1889
I looked at going to electrons also. But, their controller is nothing more than an LGC15. Their controller is programmed just for Electrons. Just getting the LGC 15 was a lot cheaper than a whole new set of gear and controller. However, if I have any trouble with the gear and can't get parts, then I may very well go to electrons. But so far. Dirk has been able to get most of the wear parts for our gear. So I am sticking with the OEM Gear and the LGC15, … for now.
Last edited by Len Todd; 03-20-2019 at 05:25 PM.
03-20-2019, 05:28 PM
#1890
Since we are on the topic of retracts, anyone have or know where I can get the little air inlets for the t-1/T-3 retracts? Mine broke off on an incident a couple weeks ago. Picture attached. Thanks
Last edited by Westwindpilot86; 03-20-2019 at 05:34 PM. Reason: Added a picture
03-20-2019, 05:42 PM
#1891
Ouch! Rough Landing? I got a bunch for spares from DreamworksRC. Not sure of the size you need. But I think they are all the same size unless you are using a really big unit.
03-20-2019, 05:53 PM
#1892
In knife edge flight had a flameout. Made it back to runway but was hauling ass. Slammed on brakes and it went sideways. Ripped both mains out of wing. I'll look it up on DreamWorks. The retract is for the T-3. Thanks
03-24-2019, 10:00 AM
#1893
This jet started at $1760 for the kit, gear, tank and pipe. I understand that it now comes with a split tank for smoke and fuel and a better pipe but what other changes have occurred to reflect the price increase to $2460? This is an increase of around $700. Does it include more items? Does it come with the fittings for the fuel tank now? Can anyone shed a little light on this for me? I cannot locate a manual online and this thread does not seem to get alot of traffic.
Thanks,
Tone
Thanks,
Tone
03-24-2019, 10:39 AM
#1894
The pipe was upgraded as you mentioned. The tank included the smoke tank, which I use for extra fuel. I get a nice 10 minute ride with the K160. All the tank fittings came with it. But, I up graded to Hi-Flow fittings and clunks, etc. I think the basic gear was upgraded also. Not sure on that as I got the Electric Gear and it was significantly improved from the initial OEM Air and E Gear. I think they may have provided a bit heavier hardware also. But I am not sure about that either as the stuff I got was great. But initially I heard some gripes about the hardware. But, I think most of the remaining increase has to do with tariffs and it may have been just priced too low to start with.
Never seen a manual, ... yet. But if you go to CARF and get a manual for a Flash or Ultra Flash, the basic building process, is the same. Start at the back and work forward, etc. There are no instructions for the Landing Gear Controller and Nav Light Controller either. I could not get either to work correctly. They may have worked. But after days trying to figure them out, they were replaced.
Bottom Line: I love the jet. It is easy to fly and see. No unexpected tendencies. Didn't need to mess with hours put into making the cockpit look good! Was delivered a couple days before the promise of 8 weeks and came in a very sturdy box w/o any sign of shipping damage. When I had questions about the Landing Light and Nav lights, Dirk provided some specific instructions and the Landing Light worked great. But the other lights did not because the factory installed LED controls in the harnesses and tried to make them work with a controller too. One LED was DOA on arrival. But Dirk gave me my $s back for the Nav Light System, and I put in another Nav Light System. So, overall, the service from Pacific RC was great.
The Electric LGC is very basic. No ABS, and it would not work consistently proportionally. In the Electric Gear, they have permanent magnets in the Hubs to draw the floating disk back off the electromagnet. What happens is; you have to give it almost full braking to get the floating disk moving and then once it moves off the permanent magnets, the brakes lock up. Then you back off on the slider and then braking is proportional. PITA doing the brake dance and is hard on the tires, etc.. I removed the magnets and added and Zicoy LGC 15. We'll soon see how that works. Can't tell you how well the air systems work. But there are a lot of them out there and there is plenty of space in the jet for the cans.
Never seen a manual, ... yet. But if you go to CARF and get a manual for a Flash or Ultra Flash, the basic building process, is the same. Start at the back and work forward, etc. There are no instructions for the Landing Gear Controller and Nav Light Controller either. I could not get either to work correctly. They may have worked. But after days trying to figure them out, they were replaced.
Bottom Line: I love the jet. It is easy to fly and see. No unexpected tendencies. Didn't need to mess with hours put into making the cockpit look good! Was delivered a couple days before the promise of 8 weeks and came in a very sturdy box w/o any sign of shipping damage. When I had questions about the Landing Light and Nav lights, Dirk provided some specific instructions and the Landing Light worked great. But the other lights did not because the factory installed LED controls in the harnesses and tried to make them work with a controller too. One LED was DOA on arrival. But Dirk gave me my $s back for the Nav Light System, and I put in another Nav Light System. So, overall, the service from Pacific RC was great.
The Electric LGC is very basic. No ABS, and it would not work consistently proportionally. In the Electric Gear, they have permanent magnets in the Hubs to draw the floating disk back off the electromagnet. What happens is; you have to give it almost full braking to get the floating disk moving and then once it moves off the permanent magnets, the brakes lock up. Then you back off on the slider and then braking is proportional. PITA doing the brake dance and is hard on the tires, etc.. I removed the magnets and added and Zicoy LGC 15. We'll soon see how that works. Can't tell you how well the air systems work. But there are a lot of them out there and there is plenty of space in the jet for the cans.
03-24-2019, 11:48 AM
#1895
The pipe was upgraded as you mentioned. The tank included the smoke tank, which I use for extra fuel. I get a nice 10 minute ride with the K160. All the tank fittings came with it. But, I up graded to Hi-Flow fittings and clunks, etc. I think the basic gear was upgraded also. Not sure on that as I got the Electric Gear and it was significantly improved from the initial OEM Air and E Gear. I think they may have provided a bit heavier hardware also. But I am not sure about that either as the stuff I got was great. But initially I heard some gripes about the hardware. But, I think most of the remaining increase has to do with tariffs and it may have been just priced too low to start with.
Never seen a manual, ... yet. But if you go to CARF and get a manual for a Flash or Ultra Flash, the basic building process, is the same. Start at the back and work forward, etc. There are no instructions for the Landing Gear Controller and Nav Light Controller either. I could not get either to work correctly. They may have worked. But after days trying to figure them out, they were replaced.
Bottom Line: I love the jet. It is easy to fly and see. No unexpected tendencies. Didn't need to mess with hours put into making the cockpit look good! Was delivered a couple days before the promise of 8 weeks and came in a very sturdy box w/o any sign of shipping damage. When I had questions about the Landing Light and Nav lights, Dirk provided some specific instructions and the Landing Light worked great. But the other lights did not because the factory installed LED controls in the harnesses and tried to make them work with a controller too. One LED was DOA on arrival. But Dirk gave me my $s back for the Nav Light System, and I put in another Nav Light System. So, overall, the service from Pacific RC was great.
The Electric LGC is very basic. No ABS, and it would not work consistently proportionally. In the Electric Gear, they have permanent magnets in the Hubs to draw the floating disk back off the electromagnet. What happens is; you have to give it almost full braking to get the floating disk moving and then once it moves off the permanent magnets, the brakes lock up. Then you back off on the slider and then braking is proportional. PITA doing the brake dance and is hard on the tires, etc.. I removed the magnets and added and Zicoy LGC 15. We'll soon see how that works. Can't tell you how well the air systems work. But there are a lot of them out there and there is plenty of space in the jet for the cans.
Never seen a manual, ... yet. But if you go to CARF and get a manual for a Flash or Ultra Flash, the basic building process, is the same. Start at the back and work forward, etc. There are no instructions for the Landing Gear Controller and Nav Light Controller either. I could not get either to work correctly. They may have worked. But after days trying to figure them out, they were replaced.
Bottom Line: I love the jet. It is easy to fly and see. No unexpected tendencies. Didn't need to mess with hours put into making the cockpit look good! Was delivered a couple days before the promise of 8 weeks and came in a very sturdy box w/o any sign of shipping damage. When I had questions about the Landing Light and Nav lights, Dirk provided some specific instructions and the Landing Light worked great. But the other lights did not because the factory installed LED controls in the harnesses and tried to make them work with a controller too. One LED was DOA on arrival. But Dirk gave me my $s back for the Nav Light System, and I put in another Nav Light System. So, overall, the service from Pacific RC was great.
The Electric LGC is very basic. No ABS, and it would not work consistently proportionally. In the Electric Gear, they have permanent magnets in the Hubs to draw the floating disk back off the electromagnet. What happens is; you have to give it almost full braking to get the floating disk moving and then once it moves off the permanent magnets, the brakes lock up. Then you back off on the slider and then braking is proportional. PITA doing the brake dance and is hard on the tires, etc.. I removed the magnets and added and Zicoy LGC 15. We'll soon see how that works. Can't tell you how well the air systems work. But there are a lot of them out there and there is plenty of space in the jet for the cans.
Thanks,
Tone
03-24-2019, 12:50 PM
#1896
My Feedback: (53)
The $1760 was the intro price.....that mean before they actually were available and the wait was very long......the regular price has increase since they become available same price for custom or normal... I paid $2460 for mine (Custom Honda Scheme) + the electric retract, in March 2017......
I cannot talk about the Air retract that is included in the 2460 price.....since I got the upgrade electric when I order the kit.....I could have used all the hardware but change some because I always do, I'm using the tank with their fitting and the pipe...with a K140 work fine.
I cannot talk about the Air retract that is included in the 2460 price.....since I got the upgrade electric when I order the kit.....I could have used all the hardware but change some because I always do, I'm using the tank with their fitting and the pipe...with a K140 work fine.
04-15-2019, 09:08 AM
#1899