John, SJN,

did your hawks come with the "hardwood servo supports" for mounting the flap
and aileron servos also the wooden dowels for the wing mounting?

The instructions are a bit sketchy in a lot of areas but with SJN's excellent post's and photos
makes the construction a lot easier

I also found that the mounting plate for the rudder/elevator servo does not fit into the
space provided so I will also be mounting my servo's the same way as SJN has done.

Greg

Hi Greg.

Yes, I think this is the hardwood for the mounts....

Hi Sonnich, i have not yet installed my elevator & rudder servo,s.
I think i will use the same idea as you have for my rudder.
What do you think of the elevator set up ?. I dont like the idea of the elevator
pivots just into wood.i think i will bush them.

rgds Martin.

Im very pleased with the way my elevator is. There is zerro slop in it, and feels very solid.
There is no play anywhere. I made sure it was a tight fit.
The pre glued triangle or wedged blocks in mine where glued in the wrong direction. I sanded them to shape before glueing in the extra suplied blocks of wood.

Sonnich

Could I ask you to briefly run through your sequence of installation of the elevator assembly. I.e. did you mount the servo first? Did you mount the control arm and then put in the elevator rods & tighten the grub screws?. My problem is I have large hands and there is not a lot of room in the back end.

Sometimes I think a qualification in gynecology would be a distinct advantage.

John

Hi Sonnich,

no hardwood with my kit then, but no problem as I have plenty in the scrap box!!

By the way have you run the JJ1400 turbine yet? I've just got the UPS tracking
number from Joe at JetJoe for my JJ1400

Maybe proctology would be better?

Greg

I am missing some of these bits too. Some of them I will have in the scrap box but any I don't I will make a list and call the supplier.

He did say he opens every kit to check that it's all there.

I will not be using the supplied horns / clevises / pushrods and will substitue 3mm threaded rod / clevises and decent horns.

John

causeitflies

I don't know about better! Certainly smellier!!

John

John.....it was a little fiddly, but simple....

I dont know how to explain it...

I set everything up loosly, and found the right lenght of the pushrod. Made sure the angle of the servo horn and the elevator pivot tube are the same, so I would get the maximum travel.

The angle og the two alu arms that you glue into the stabs are not critical at this stage, as they can be adjusted later when gluing the stabs on.

Anyway, I assembled everything, and glued the ply servo board to the plane as the very last thing.



After that, you can begin to align the stabs, and glue them on.



Sorry, I cant explain it better.....


But if you are going to make the rudder servo like mine, make sure to install it first!

John,

My kit wasn't checked as I picked it up direct from the shop.
He brought it down from his store room still in the shipping over box and taped up.

The kit box was opened up in the shop so he could explain the mods that he recommends
but I never thought to check that everything was there

Both my wheel wells are also split and there is no 2mm wire for the rudder actuator.

But the most important parts are all there and in working order and I will also not be using
the supplied horns, clevises, pushrods etc.

Greg

Guys

I have now completed the installation of the rudder and elevator assemblys and I thought a few notes might be helpfull to anyone who has not yet started.

Firstly full credit for the design to Sonnich, do not follow the kit instructions or you will not have a solid elevator / rudder installation.

Firstly fit the rudder servo into the fin, I cut a small hatch and glued it in with silicone glue and then glued the cut out to the servo. I packed the back of the servo with hard balsa to get a good fit servo is Hitec HS225MG.

Secondly pass a piece of wire through the elevator rod holes in the fuselage and measure the size from the back of the last former to the wire in my case it was 97mm. Then make up a servo mount from 3mm ply / hardwood blocks and screw the servo to the mount, servo is Hitec HS 5465 MG digital.

Measure the distance from the rear of the servo mount to the centre of the servo arm in my case 20mm deduct this from the first dimension and you have the length of the push rod (77mm) make this up with 3mm threaded rod , metal clevis and 3mm ball link (See photo)

Pass an allen screw through the hole in the elevator control unit , slip a tight fitting piece of brass tubing about 10mm long over this and screw a nut onto the screw to hold the assembly in place. Slip the ball link over the screw and finish with another nut and tighten up.

Trial fit the assembly , pass the elevator arms through the fuselage sides into the centre unit and check for easy movement. You will probably have to do some light filing to get a smooth action. Glue the servo mount in place with epoxy and leave to dry.

Finally fit the elevator arms and tighten the grub screws on both sides ensuring the arms are both at the same angle. You can then connect up the servo to the radio and test for free action / travel etc.

Refer to Sonnich's photos on thread no 71 for further assistance. The installation took about 1.1/2 hours to carry out.

John

Guys

The centre unit should have the screw pointing downwards and not as in the photo. This was just to let you see the connection.

John

Great description John. Im never going to be a story writer

Sonnich

Maybe you write better stories in Danish?

John

not realy !


I recieved my engine mount today, So now I only need the pipe.

Made some blocks for my engine mount, and threw it all loosly into the plane.

its 15mm tall, but might have to add a few mm more.....maybe.


And....I have bought new fuel stoppers for the tanks that wil take jetfuel/petrol.

I changed the setup a bit.

To get the tanks on CG, I had to remove some of the former hloding the inlet duct. I also reshped the inlet with heat, so the tanks fit.
This also enables me to move the engine further forward.

Installed the engine.
My engine mount had to have 20mm of shims added for the engine to be centered.

Sonnich and John, did your Hawk's come with an amendment sheet to the instructions?

Amongst a few things mentioned were the following.

The amendment sheet said to remove the lip from the lower edge of each wing the length of the
flap area to enable more flap movement, 25deg for takeoff and 45deg for landing has anyone done this?

Also mentions about using a single servo for the flaps and a "Y" actuator to operate the flap?

Have you though of adding a 3rd tank between the inlet ducts just behind the radio bay former as
shown on the JHH site?

http://www.jethangar.com/Turbine%20C...s/Hawk/TC2.jpg

The large tank supplied with the kit will fit in the space or a Sullivan 16oz tank will fit giving a total
fuel capacity of 64oz?
Either that or using 2 smaller main tanks and the 3rd tank thus saving the inlet duct former and not
having to cut/reshape the inlet?

Greg

Oh yeah forgot to mention that my JJ1400 arrived this morning via UPS.

My engine came with the 2 piece tailcone but after emailing Joe he is going to send
me the single piece tailcone free of charge

No, no amendment sheet in my kit. Only some extra writing in my manual with a pen for small improvements...such as the single flap servo mod.
But, I like the flaps as they are now.

Im not going for the third tank, because I want my fuel on the CG all the time. But I gues it would fly just fine with another tank there.

Looking good SNJ

Continue your good work! do you have now the cost of this bird when finish?

Well, price is relative as to where you live :-)

It cost me about 3000 US Dollars converted frm Danish kroner. Thats Pretty cheap here in Denmark. Almost half price of my hotspot/simjet 3000.

sonnich, have you any idea how the C.G, is working out.
Do you think you will have to add any extra ballast ?.

rgds Martin.