How fast Do you go with this engine?

Speed is relative. Speed will depend on plane setup, drag, prop, weather, fuel, piloting style and other things. For this plane, you can gain more speed by installing retracts with doors and smoothing over other draggy bits than you can by adding bigger engines. The reason I suggested the Jett engine is you can order it reversed. This will open up all of the standard pitch props for you to use. I figure you should be able to get this bird up to about 120 mph if you work at it with the Jett .50.

Personally I don't measure speed on models. If I want to go fast I pick up a plane built for speed, a quickie, pylon racer or a sport jet. This plane is more of a sport plane, closer to a pattern ship than a speed demon. I figure mine is doing 70-80 mph using a 6 pitch prop and an untuned pipe on the YS 45. Math says I should be able to get to 110 or so once the pipe is tuned and I put on a 9 pitch.

Mark

For those wondering about mounting the canopy and making it removable, here's a trick that works on my AV8R. Since you really can't see through the canopy anyway, I glued a hardwood block in the inside top of the canopy, and screwed a small eyelet into it. Then I screwed another eyelet into the servo tray inside the fuse. Then I took a rubber band, and stretched it eyelet to eyelet, and instant canopy retention. I put a small piece of velcro underneath the front of the canopy to keep it from moving around. Works pretty well...

Mark

What is your opinion about this engine (OS 46 VX-FX) without Ducted Fan? Just a good and specific Pusher Propeller, for example 10x7 or 11x7.

That's an OS .46 VX-DF not FX. That engine wouldn't work without major surgery to the rear of the plane. It's a rear exhaust engine which means it won't fit in the stock location because the exhaust and carb would be into the rear of the fuselage. That engine is designed for high RPM's and a lot of concentrated cooling air moving past the head. I'm not even sure that engine will work properly with a prop instead of a ducted fan unit, maybe someone else can chime in and give you more info.

Prop is settled next question and ive asked this before but not getting much feedback

FLAPERONS!!

I have a few degrees of up and a few degrees of down are there anyone using them and whats the best way-- up for takeoff down for landing ??

i have them dont have 2 use them but would like 2 they look cool!

thx again

Jason


Hey Bob hows that b25 coming ??

I just received my Bobcat and I'm planning to use a Tower 75. What is the best available pusher prop for this setup?

I first tried a Zinger 11x8 on my Tower .75...didn't get much performance out of that,..went to an APC 11x7...much better.
Have Graupner 11x8 on order, hope to get more speed out of it. Best I've got on the radar gun with the APC 11x7 is 110mph.

i saw that master airscrew has a 16-10 pusher prop i was wondering how that would work on the os 91 if ya cut it down to like a 12 -10?

I have had really good results with a Zinger 12x6 pusher on the tower .75, I don't know what the top speed is but everyone that has seen it seems to agree "it moves out".

[link=http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=4175610e5a00c1e221eb]Bobcat with Tower .75 12x6 zinger pusher[/link]

you said the most you were getting was about 110 right? i was going to put a picco 45 with a tunned pipe which should push it aroud there but my ultra sport does about that same speed and i just want something faster.. hopefully a 90 would do it but the tower 75 setup isnt a bad idea but i was doing some test on the g3 just for rough rpm figures and the 12 -10 3 blade on the os 90 really cranks.

If you guys really want speed, you have to pull the gear up. You can only go but so fast with three wheels hanging in the breeze...

Bob

Original: dragraces


Well, both ailerons up is called spoilerons and you certainly don't want to use that for takeoff. I wouldn't suggest using flaperons (both ailerons down) for takeoff either. I have not flown mine yet but flaperons might be useful for landing. The only way to tell is to try them out at landing speed with some altitude so you have time to recover if the outcome isn't good. I don't think they are necessary judging by the posted flight reports but I think it's worth trying out to see how the plane reacts. One thing to keep in mind with flaperons is that you don't want to go extreme or you could lose aileron control.

Well I finally got through to Nitroplanes via phone today about the paint falling off the canopy and the outcome was not in my favor. They wanted me to pay for another canopy because the plane was purchased more than 30 days ago (Christmas gift from my wife).
I've been sending them e-mails for two weeks on this with no answer (website says they answer e-mails in one or two hours). I realize this plane is a bargain at $157 (with shipping) but this is poor business. Not a good way to get repeat customers although I sense they're not too concerned about that. If anyone has a good method of removing paint from Lexan (or whatever material this canopy is made of) without ruining the plastic let me know as I need to get the rest of the paint off so I can do it right.

Stick,

Scuff if and paint over it. If you don't want to do that, sell the plane and get a new one for yourself. You may make money if you time it right. Anything stong enough to take the paint off will hurt the plastic.

Mark

I think it may be hit or miss on a new kit. Nitroplanes flat out told me that if I purchased another canopy they could not guarantee that the paint wouldn't fall off that one too. Scuffing the remaining paint will only create more of a mess, I need to strip it clean. I may end up using a Scotch pad to get it all off and just paint the whole thing. Again, I do realize this is a cheaply priced ARF but the list of problems that need to be corrected is growing and Customer Service from Nitroplanes is about the worst I've come across.

Stick,

You can't expect great customer service for these prices. The entire plane is the same price as a PCM receiver or a single high end servo.

Sanding off the old paint is the only way to do a neat job. Just be careful not to burn through the plastic.

Mark

paint the whole thing from the inside and you won't have to remove the old. Worth a try. Bob

Well i forgot i had a evolution 100 in the basement so i now know what im puttin in the bobcat.. its that same size as the 90 but a lil hevaier. I gonna get that master airscrew 16 X10 and cut it down. Its gonna be a brick but hopefully 125mph brick....

Original: MMallory

Like I said, I know it's a bargain priced ARF but I have a couple of cheaply priced ARF's from World Models and I have received good customer service from them, so it can be done. There is absolutely no excuse for not answering legitimate e-mails. They should not have customer service contacts on their site if they don't intend to provide any. I would have more respect for them if they flat out stated that their prices are so cheap they can't provide any customer service, at least that would be honest. Oh well, enough on this, time to paint my canopy.

Original: B58

I really don't want to paint the whole thing white. Even if I did, the remaining original white keeps coming off in little annoying pieces that have serious static cling to the tinted area of the canopy. Thanks for the suggestion though.

I used 400 grit wet-dry. Soaked the stuff and rubbed it till I got a nice smooth surface. Hit it with primer, (grey), wet-sanded again and shot my color. I applied 6oz glass cloth all around the inside framework and this stiffened the whole affair up nicely.

I cut the rose-tinted pieces out and carved plugs for both. I'll eventually heat-stretch-mold replacements out of butyrate or similar, in my kitchen oven.

So much over so little.

PM

After having the needle valve bracket break and the needle valve get sucked into the prop Sunday, I took the needle valve bracket and valve off a Tower .61 I have in my Extra 300 and put it in the Bobcat. However, I didn't, but should have, taken dragonpilots advice and used a piece of carbon fiber or flat bar instead of the bracket. Did the same damn thing happen yesterday and another needle valve get sucked into the prop?.....yeah....Do I feel like a dumbass for letting that happen again?.....yeah

I bought a Magnum .91 and mounted it. Waiting for 14x7 three blade props on order. Instead of cutting the blades down tho for ground clearance, I think I'm going to make some taller gear. I've already made new gear with 5/32 wire purchased at LHS, so I know this will be easy to do. I fly off a nice smooth black top, so I don't think the taller gear will be an issue.

You only have so much room between the booms no matter how tall your gear is

Ah yes..right you are,...I have an 11 inch prop on it now and only have about 1 1/4" clearance,...I will have to cut the blades down a bit won't I.....chit