Completely the wrong valve... this one screws onto the can, no chance of this working...

Is the TECHNI-VALVE No. TV-101-A the valve that is supposed to be discontinued.

http://www.pecaproducts.com/trigger_valves.htm

It sure does show a strong resemblance to the power trigger valve from Usher. Looks like the same valve but modified in that the nozzle was cut back and an adapter fitted. Without being able to see a pic of the underside of the TV-101-A, the power trigger from Usher may have also had a machined brass adapter that pierces the opening in the powermax vessel. Looks like a knurled nut was also adapted to tighten down on the three prong clamp.

To much of a coincidence for this not to be the same valve. Now whether that particular trigger valve is available any longer or not remains to be seen. I'm sure someone out there is sitting on a stash of them.

The TV-101-A is a Type I valve that has been verified as the one that does not work.
I called Peca today and they do not make a Type II valve and never have, and are in the process of discontinuing the TV-101-A.
The metal trigger valve is just to expensive compared to the plastic ones.
The TV-101-A is designed to screw on to the stem of the can and puncture it. You do not want to puncture the Colman can and the Colman can has no threads.

All of this begs the question of what people, who do not not already own a trigger valve, will be using on their Powermax cans.

Is there a suitable alternative out there?

Steve,
I have been paying particular attention to this problem as I was in a panic to find one because I didn't have one. I did a lot of searching and asking and I think if Todd would not have come up with one I would still be looking.

From my point of view I think the only hope (unless a manufacture starts producing them again) is that Todd will take the time and expertise to take these that don't work and engineer it to work. He can do it but it raises the price up to $55.00.

Mine was $40.00 new so this remedy would be $15.00 higher but as far as I know....it is the only option out there right now.

I would imagine several people would have to want Todd to do this before he takes this on.

Don

I have a lead that I am pursuing.
Grated it is a slim lead but I am chasing it none the less.
I am talking to a valve manufacturer, and since I am a design engineer, I am in the process of making up the drawings to have a correct valve made just for us.
It will look very similar to what you are used to and work the same.
At first blush the numbers appear to be feasible for production.
I will know more in about a week.

And yes I just got my first jet that I hope to maiden in 2 weeks, so I need one too.

I am working on an alternative solution, hopefully something will pan out at a reasonable cost...

Hi,
I'm curious as to why you need to use Powermax at all.
I've used propane and the valve from GN for the last four years, SimJet 2300, and never had a problem.
BRG,
Jon

Jon,
When using the onboard start tanks it is suggested to use powermax over propane. Propane has a higher pressure ratio than the powermax propane/butane mix. Because of the higher pressure associated with propane, in high ambient conditions, your festo feed lines can burst. This is really the only reason powermax is suggested over propane....

Without question, the TV-101-A Peca valve is the very same valve that Usher was using to produce the PowerMax trigger valve. Sure, it will not work on the PowerMax cans in its original stock form ( even if you can find it), and this is why Usher was having them modified. Whether or not he was doing the modifications himself or having it done by a local machine shop...I don't know.

hi
can any one post photos of the one usher has modified showing what was done to make it worke on the powermax cans
thanks

Arden

ok I cant stand it anymore so I'm gonna go ahead and raise my hand way back here in the back of the class and ask a dumb "groaner" question:

Having read a couple of times that the ONLY (?) reason not to use propane is the p.s.i. issue, why not just tee in a pressure guage like the gear and brake systems have to insure against overcharging the system, thus preventing burst lines??

I freely admit to being a newb and that there must be a really obvious (duh !!) answer.

Anxiously awaiting my education..........

thx, don.

Here's your answer, and not such a dumb question.



Why are Butane and Propane used in combination?
While butane and propane are different chemical compounds, their properties are similar enough to be useful in mixtures. Butane and Propane are both saturated hydrocarbons. They do not react with other. Butane is less volatile and boils at 0.6 deg C. Propane is more volatile and boils at - 42 deg C. Both products are liquids at atmospheric pressure when cooled to temperatures lower than their boiling points. Vaporization is rapid at temperatures above the boiling points. The calorific (heat) values of both are almost equal. Both are thus mixed together to attain the vapor pressure that is required by the end user and depending on the ambient conditions. If the ambient temperature is very low propane is preferred to achieve higher vapor pressure at the given temperature.

Good job Sir Seanreit!

Just the way I would have explained it.

If I would have had clue as to how to answer the question...hehehhe...

Don

Why all of the fuss---This is what I use....And @ 95 cents a bargain too!!![8D]


http://www.sitewavesstores.com/Merch...ry_Code=TUBING

Kevin

MUCH cooler to have a trigger valve my friend!
I didn't see anybody saying we needed a trigger valve, just folks saying they want one.

Dave

I think some guys think they NEED one. If you keep the PowerMax can hooked up for offboard start gas, it's more convenient to have the trigger. But if you're going to do that you may as well use propane.

Kevin,
How do you attach that to the PowerMax can?

Kevin, if cool is the in thing. Get a brass nipple like I did, much much cooler than the black plastic one. Although it was about 3 times the price of yours. Being cool comes with a price

and so, master sean, does this chart imply that any quantity of propane in a closed sytem of any volume will expand to 150 psi @ 90 deg F ??

Or does this mean that >150 psi is required to liquefy propane at 90 deg F?

My best guess is the latter.

To dumb this down for the business majors in the room (me); as long as I keep the charged system <= 90 deg F it will remain at <= 150 psi.

I've seen 150 psi in my retract system w/out a resulting bang/pop/hiss, so i should be good, right?

I need to know because while I have found LOTS of the correct trigger valves, but no one will sell 'em to me cus I'm just not cool enuff to be part of the club, thus my intense curiosity in propane. That and the fact that every wal-mart this side of east everywhere stocks it and practically gives the stuff away!!
a
Thanks, as always for your collective patience w/ my newb-ness. And my apologies if I've diverted the thred off track a bit.

PS, my 1st jet, a Boomer XL is finally assembled and sitting on it's gear and the "guts" are going in now. I know, I know...WAY off topic. But I'm so tickled I just had to tell someone! Thanks for listening, I feel much better now.

There in lies the need for a better understanding of vapor pressure. As pressure builds, it goes into a liquid, as pressure goes down, it turns back into a gas.

The pressure remains the same for any given temperature.

That's why they say propane is better at lower temperatures. You're still gonna have enough pressure to get the job done.

The Peca TV-101-A can possibly be sourced at an minimum order of 1,000 valves at an approximate cost of $8.00 to $10.00 each, and the modifications would still need to be done to make them work. That is a hefty chunk of change for a limited sales market.

Countryboy,
Thanks for the comprehensive photos, I now understand why the stock valve will not work.
As they say " a picture is worth a thousand words".
jef

Countryboy
THANKYOU

I have one of those valves coming and i will try to modify it i have a lathe and mill. is there a seal around the tube to keep it from leaking ? what is the size of the tube that goes into the tank,

Arden

IT WORKS
I got the 101 valve today and was able to modify it and make it work it was not that bad the hardest part was removing the pucture pin which was a roll pin i broke several bits and finally got a 1/4 hole milled 3/8 in deep made a 1/4 plug with a 1/8 hole and 1/8 tube added a bit of hysoll and pressed it all together cut the brass tube to correct depth and install on can viola it squrits fuel

Arden