2008 the year of the Turbinator
01-02-2018, 04:03 PM
#552
What I understand is that since these are used on giants and giants are usually painted then you can remove the pins to remove the control surface to service it, repaint it, recover, ECT, ect.
yes, you are correct, the ends of the pins will be bend at least 90° and they may be trimmed some so they don't interfiere with the control surfaces.
yes, you are correct, the ends of the pins will be bend at least 90° and they may be trimmed some so they don't interfiere with the control surfaces.
01-03-2018, 04:57 PM
#553
Completing the stab by filling up the space above it, in order to do this you have to clear what ever vertical stab skin is hanging past the rib above the stab, the pictures explain better, I push the balsa in there so it is tight then added masking type around the added wood and sanded it down to its final shape, removed the masking type, a little more sanding then added 30 minutes epoxy thinned out some, enough to allow it to soak in through the spaces between the added wood, once the epoxy penetrated the wood I used a towel paper soaked in alcohol to remove the excess of glue that remained over the wood, now the Turbo is in my drying room ( A small room at home, it's hotter in there ) in a hour or so I will add the epoxy to the other side.
The jet is all build, what remains are small things here and there.
I'm shooting for Feb to finish it, turbine install included.
The jet is all build, what remains are small things here and there.
I'm shooting for Feb to finish it, turbine install included.
Last edited by CARS II; 01-03-2018 at 05:28 PM.
01-04-2018, 07:49 PM
#556
Thanks a bunch 
I'm glad my build is helping you, make sure you use light, soft balsa there, it will be easier to sand down at the end.
Here are some pictures of the other fuse details I'm working on, also I rounded the front lower corners and trimmed the elevators so they are an a equal distance from the vertical stab.
I'm glad my build is helping you, make sure you use light, soft balsa there, it will be easier to sand down at the end.Here are some pictures of the other fuse details I'm working on, also I rounded the front lower corners and trimmed the elevators so they are an a equal distance from the vertical stab.
Last edited by CARS II; 01-04-2018 at 08:36 PM.
01-05-2018, 12:51 AM
#557
Working on the wing now, I fitted the flaps to the wing before but, once the wing is mounted on the fuse it has to be done again, the last thing to add to the wing is the fiberglass strip to the center.
Last edited by CARS II; 01-05-2018 at 11:17 AM.
01-05-2018, 06:10 AM
#558
Glad to hear you're making some progress Carlos. I forgot that you were the one who started this thread way back in 2008. My Turbinator is still going strong, and has over 300 flights on it.
I noticed you too have a cat to keep you company through the long build process.
I noticed you too have a cat to keep you company through the long build process.
01-05-2018, 12:53 PM
#561
Glad to hear you're making some progress Carlos. I forgot that you were the one who started this thread way back in 2008. My Turbinator is still going strong, and has over 300 flights on it.
I noticed you too have a cat to keep you company through the long build process.
I noticed you too have a cat to keep you company through the long build process.
Nice to hear that your Turbo is still giving you many hours of fun, it sure is rewarding to have that many flights after all the time you put in building it.
This is the only project that has stretched this long, ever, I usually take around three months to build an airplane, I will be building a Reaction 54 next, I will start that one around Spring to have it ready by Summer, I expect that one to be much simpler than the Turbo.
Cool cat you got there, I like the spots.
01-05-2018, 08:10 PM
#563
I'm done adding the fiberglass on the wing, it will need light sanding before covering.
There nothing else to build as far as the fuse and wing goes, the next step is to cover it with Ultrakote, I will add a pilot after the maiden flight.
Thank you to those that participated on the thread, if I can be of any assistance on your build let me know I will be more than happy to assist
My next post will be after I'm done covering the Turbinator.
There nothing else to build as far as the fuse and wing goes, the next step is to cover it with Ultrakote, I will add a pilot after the maiden flight.
Thank you to those that participated on the thread, if I can be of any assistance on your build let me know I will be more than happy to assist
My next post will be after I'm done covering the Turbinator.
Last edited by CARS II; 01-05-2018 at 08:12 PM.
01-05-2018, 09:58 PM
#564
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What I understand is that since these are used on giants and giants are usually painted then you can remove the pins to remove the control surface to service it, repaint it, recover, ECT, ect.
yes, you are correct, the ends of the pins will be bend at least 90° and they may be trimmed some so they don't interfiere with the control surfaces.
yes, you are correct, the ends of the pins will be bend at least 90° and they may be trimmed some so they don't interfiere with the control surfaces.
01-09-2018, 03:46 PM
#566
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Carlos do you plan on installing the flap hinge ply covers on top of the hinges? That will be a bit of a pain when covering the wing I think. I'm debating wether to hinge that way or to hinge the way Dan seemed to with the robart hinges drilled into the trailing edges on a angle instead of just under the surface as per plan.
Last edited by smoknrv4; 01-09-2018 at 03:50 PM.
01-10-2018, 10:59 PM
#567
Good question, I have giving it some thought but not finalized how Im going to do that, what I came out was that I will cover the wing and flaps, then glue the hinges to the flap and wing at the same time to make sure the gap is the same, once that is dried I was thinking of painting the hinge covers the same color as the monokote then glue them over the hinges per the instructions, the other way to do it is to glue the hinges, once the glue dried then cover them with monokote, I will be using six10 thickened epoxy.
Last edited by CARS II; 01-10-2018 at 11:04 PM.
01-11-2018, 10:59 AM
#569
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Post # 509 shows what Dan did for Flap hinging, this is what I'm thinking of doing. Robarts drilled into surfaces on angles, hinge point is right on the center of gap though, plans show hinge point a little fore of the gap.
Last edited by smoknrv4; 01-11-2018 at 11:01 AM.
01-11-2018, 12:35 PM
#571
I have done that type of hinging before but decided to fallow the building instructions as much as possible this time, I think the hinging the designer recommends works just fine and thats why I will go with the way he has design it.
The thing with us ( kit builders ) is that we can easily replace a step with what we think is acceptable for us and that's the beauty of building an airplane made out of balsa and ply.
I too thought of hinging the flap hinges on an angle but ( for me ) I don't see the need to modified that step at this time.
If you decide to hinge the flap with the hinges on an angle I like to suggest you make yourself an angle tool made out of ply and a small piece of brass tube to guide the drill at the same angle on every hole you will be making.
The thing with us ( kit builders ) is that we can easily replace a step with what we think is acceptable for us and that's the beauty of building an airplane made out of balsa and ply.
I too thought of hinging the flap hinges on an angle but ( for me ) I don't see the need to modified that step at this time.
If you decide to hinge the flap with the hinges on an angle I like to suggest you make yourself an angle tool made out of ply and a small piece of brass tube to guide the drill at the same angle on every hole you will be making.
Last edited by CARS II; 01-11-2018 at 12:57 PM.
01-11-2018, 02:08 PM
#572
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I have done that type of hinging before but decided to fallow the building instructions as much as possible this time, I think the hinging the designer recommends works just fine and thats why I will go with the way he has design it.
The thing with us ( kit builders ) is that we can easily replace a step with what we think is acceptable for us and that's the beauty of building an airplane made out of balsa and ply.
I too thought of hinging the flap hinges on an angle but ( for me ) I don't see the need to modified that step at this time.
If you decide to hinge the flap with the hinges on an angle I like to suggest you make yourself an angle tool made out of ply and a small piece of brass tube to guide the drill at the same angle on every hole you will be making.
The thing with us ( kit builders ) is that we can easily replace a step with what we think is acceptable for us and that's the beauty of building an airplane made out of balsa and ply.
I too thought of hinging the flap hinges on an angle but ( for me ) I don't see the need to modified that step at this time.
If you decide to hinge the flap with the hinges on an angle I like to suggest you make yourself an angle tool made out of ply and a small piece of brass tube to guide the drill at the same angle on every hole you will be making.
Making an angle gauge for drilling is a great idea! Although I'm having second thoughts now on that, may just do it as per plan.
Carlos I see on a post farther back that you had to change the location of the 1/2" wing dowel hole on the fore fuse bulkhead. I am fitting my wing today to the cradle and it looks like I have to do the same thing. Are you able to post some pics of the front of your wing where the 1/2" dowel protrudes? I would like to see how it supposed to look with W-J2, and WJ-2A installed. Something doesn't jive with the Wing/sadle fitment near the front bulkhead.
Thanks again!
Last edited by smoknrv4; 01-11-2018 at 02:27 PM.
01-11-2018, 07:00 PM
#574
I have already some of the pictures you want to see, what it is, that WJ2A locks the dowel to WJ2, WJ2 has an elongated hole, WJ2A has a round hole, once you have secured the wing to the fuse with the nylon/metal screws then you fit WJ2A, you may have to trim the top a bit ( looking at it upside down ) so it can slide on the dowel and clear the bottom end of the fuse that gets glues to WJ2.
I hope this is clear enough
I hope this is clear enough
01-11-2018, 07:03 PM
#575
I have already some of the pictures you want to see, what it is, that WJ2A locks the dowel to WJ2, WJ2 has an elongated hole, WJ2A has a round hole, once you have secured the wing to the fuse with the nylon/metal screws then you fit WJ2A, you may have to trim the top a bit ( looking at it upside down ) so it can slide on the dowel and clear the bottom end of the fuse that gets glues to WJ2.
Adding the bottom of the intakes will make it a little hard to seat the wing on the wing sattle, you may need to clear some, I repeat, some wood from the WJ2/ WJ2A to allow the wing to seat all the way down without having to push it to hard.
I hope this is clear enough
Adding the bottom of the intakes will make it a little hard to seat the wing on the wing sattle, you may need to clear some, I repeat, some wood from the WJ2/ WJ2A to allow the wing to seat all the way down without having to push it to hard.
I hope this is clear enough
Last edited by CARS II; 01-11-2018 at 07:23 PM.