imperio

My Feedback: (5)

id agree with that, very good for vertical unlimited climbs n high alpha, u can use the hand held data terminal n increase the rpm about 5k on almost any turbine that has the hdt/hand held data terminal, also ive devrease on mine the accleration delay a few points n the decelration as well, but not to much on the aceleration or u will have a flame thower on ur hands lol, n the advantage of having longer deceleration delay is it burns off more excess fuel im told, but hey faster throttle reponse is darn handy which is the acleration delay n the menue of the hdt on the black mamba but im sure the 200 has these adjustments as well,anyway increasing the rpm limit by 5k gives about 5-6 pounds of increase thrust n yes i know its more wear n tear on the engine but its handy to have more power on tap n throttle resonse if its needed in the case of gotta burn/power ur way out of trouble lol n the motocross world we have a sayting that goes somthing like this, when in doubt pin it/ ie grab a handfull of wide open throttle n hangon for dear life lol[sm=bananahead.gif]

imperio

My Feedback: (5)

hey i got the engine installed n my mitsubishi 3000gt vr4 twin turbos, did i mention i went to mexico n woke up n a tube of ice to get enough money to buy a brand new shipped from mitsubish japan entire engine, also my butt hurts lol ive been babying it around trying to get 1k miles on it to break it in then dump the oil n change to synthetic, well ive got news for mitsubishi. i ran that engine for 45 minutes n dumped the oil n filter! yup yes i did, n i refiled it with what it had n it for the 1k breakin but i will change it again at 500 miles n again at 1k n then its time to find out just how much boost those twin turbos can make, my wife named the car long time ago she called it the whistler, because its actualy rather very quite but the turbos whistle loudly, 11:59 seconds n the 1/4 mile but ya wind up buying engines like that lol but hey its been doing that since 1991 so the factory engine that blewup has had a good long life 145k miles, its a rather strange feeling when it blewup the engine, it had me pinned into the seat like i was launching the space shuttle n all the sudden it lost a little pull n then splat the engine n a slpit second came apart n just about threw me n my sons nose out on the end of the hood where the mitsu emblem is lol haha, it was n 5th gear n i was too scared to take my eyes off the road to look at the speedo, that car is faster than my yamaha YFZR1000R with the cross plane crank technology, its all wheel drive n has the rear streering as well it doesnt really steer it changes the angle of the caster n camber to make the car hookup better when ya bring that beast of a engine to full power, n yes its the 700hp factory car, i will try to put some pics on here, did i mention ima skeerd o that car??? it hurts my arse real bad[sm=drowning.gif][sm=eek.gif]

Steve N.

Has anyone experienced the problem that this fellow did???
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10635609/tm.htm
If so, do you have any pics of any re-enforceing that you did?

Thanks,
Steve

imperio

My Feedback: (5)

yes i had a jetlegend 1/6 f16 n i had to add another former under the rudder n the stock fuel cells leaked right off the bat a oboiuse defect n they told me to buy there new blow molded tanks lol zero customer service i had nothing but fixing the model from the time i got the dam thing till i finally got sick of it n sold it, n the only way i could get much for it is to sell it with the turbine n all equipment installed ready to fly, skymaster had a falling out with jetlegend for the same reason several yrs ago when they were buying fusalages ect from them, very poor quality, it came to the point i was sure eventually the model would breakup n id lose my entire investment, when i spoke to jl imedialty after taking delivery of the f16 about returning the model because of the poor fit n finish quality every where they got pissed n made reference to n i qoute, do u think building a model is like shopping for a tomato, it takes many man hours ect ect ect they made me feel if i was just being unresonable n told me if i returned it i had to pay shipping back n also there would be alarge import tax n id lose at least 1/3 of what i paid, so i kept it n built it out n so the money pit problem child began giving me greif till i sold it, i bought a skymaster n it was like night n day, n yes the skymast was more expensive but u get what u pay fore n this situation but u dont even get that n my experence with jetlegend, theres just to many things to list i had to reinforce n fix, im totally done with jetlegend, i had all kinda hell to get them to finally change there cg from 183mm to 225mm n with the cg set at the first setting they had of 183mm u had guys whos planes couldnt get the nose up to rotate n eating tons of runway n running off the end o the runnway n damaging there models n if u did have enough runway the model would leap into the air when it rotated lol, i figured it out the cg was drastically incorrect n setup mine like skymasters at 220mm n my model stopped eating tons of runnway n rotated smooth as glass, on top of that there others who knew what i knew n had figured out the same thing, but hey if u crash because of the incorerect cg they will say its pilot error n buy another one n done scewup this time n crash, jl will not take responsability for anything when it comes to this sort of problems, n they have the idea that they make no mistakes so they r incrediably slow to address problems take action to sort it out[:'(] some guys were changing the angle of attack by raising the nose to try to help with the rotation on takoff problem by raising the nose either by relocating the main gear or raising the nose gear all the while jl just sat n did nothing,when ya change the front or rear landing gear location a whole other host of problems mostly with the landing gear either hitting other existing fomers n the main gear or the nose gear doors wouldnt close so u found yourself faced wit lots of unessary dremel grinding on everything n sight ect ect theres lots of threads on this issue, i suggest everone check em out

stivvy

Hi Mike,

Can you (or anyone) confirm that the balance point is just behind (20mm behind) the wing fixing bolt holes, as this is approximately where I get the 220mm balance point to be.

Thanks, Steve

michaelsarysz

Yes, 220 mm back from where the wing meets the fuse. stay on the seem and go back 220 mm. balance it so the nose just barely swings downward while it is up on the stand or while you and a buddy are holding it.

also, make sure uat is full of fuel.

stivvy

Balanced at 220mm no lead, batteries all up front.

The big bird weighs in at 16.7kg, dry with full UAT (That's a fraction under 37 lbs old money ! [])

Anybody flown one as heavy ?

michaelsarysz

Mine is about the same, 38 lbs dry, full of fuel should be around 45 46

passagealanglaise

hello
Does some of you have the same trouble with the landing gear?


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw7akgbWlGc&context=C337b1f6ADOEgsToPDskKF QWFmsC60EWpZ7DCkw8Vv[/youtube]

Ruizmilton

My Feedback: (29)

You do not need to worry about the joint moving inward when you hit it, what you need to be concerned about is, if you grab the wheel and push it forward, will the leg allow movement up into the retract well? if not you are ok, if it does allow movement, you need to adjust the retract rod so that the leg is pushed out enough for the joint to be at zero degrees (flat) so that pushing the leg forward will not cause the joint to bend at the pivot.

passagealanglaise

Finaly
Jeff from (http://www.zedjet.com) will send to me a new Arm !
Good service ;-)

stivvy

Hi Guys,

How do you upload attachments/photos onto the forum ??

Steve D

michaelsarysz

HI Stiv,

Dont reference the holes. stay on the seemline where the wing and fuse meet.

from the front leading edge, go back 220 mm ( 8.66 inches )

and balance it there, the nose will just want to drift downward from this point if it is balanced correct.

Good luck!

kasi122

Hi,

I have a little Problem with my maingear. A week ago i had a little hard landing [&o], and one of the bolts who hold the gair was broken.
so far so good no problem only had to change. But now it seems, that the main gear has too much toe in and i am afraid the plane will start to break out at the start.You can see the bigger toe in best on the photo 3 from above. Could you take a look at the photos and tell me, if it is still ok as it is. i Think now the gears have a little more clearance than before.
The are 2 washers (plastic) at the mechanic, where the system rotates and there is now a gap (you can see it on the photo 2). Could someone please tell me, if this is a problem for the start or is it o.K ?

@ steve: i set the cg to 225mm and so the plane rotates better on start. Takes 80m hard field and the planes flies very well with that cg

thx
Andi

michaelsarysz

it is fine, it only will tow outward when you back the plane up. once it is full of fuel and moving in a forward motion, the gear will straighten.

let me know if this works


m

kasi122

Hi michael,

Thx i will try and tell

Andi

michaelsarysz

please do!

passagealanglaise

Maiden fly last week with my F-16 ( 8 fly today...)









Just have some trouble (leak) with the little retract Lock Stroke...

1/2 time show

My Feedback: (78)

I I had the samt thing what happens is part of the gear is sliding up . you can loosin set screw there is 2 of them by taking off wheel and brake one them is kinda hard to see but it is there. loosin set screws slide knuckle up and tighten set screw and good as new. I have been flying mine this is its 4th year I had to do this a couple times.

B-1 bob

1/2 time show

My Feedback: (78)

I can see it in the pix you see the gap in the parts at bottom of strut. get rid of that gap and toe is fixed

B-1 bob

michaelsarysz

there is a little set screw that you can loosen, then the gap will close then re tightn the set screw. you might still get a slight toe however it will correct itself on forward motion.

bluescoobydoo

so is the jl rudder set up ok or not ? got a painted out of the mould on the way so i want to know before i start cutting the fin ! any long term issues from the kits that have a lot of airtime?

bluescoobydoo

can someone post pictures of their servo install please, my tanks have 1800cc stamped into them which makes it 3.6 litres i belive will that be ok for a wren 160?

andretorres89

My Feedback: (1)

Alright guys, I think that I am at the point where i can go ahead and write to every one here; Hopefully the people in the previous posts hear me out here and clarify my confusions. I would appreciate feedback from those that have experienced from these same problems and found out what worked best. I know that there are reps that at times just talk without experience. I don't want to be a training rat to anyone. I have alot of money invested in this model and wish to set it up to where everything is rock solid.

Not too long ago i purchased a GJC ARF PRO Jetlegend 1/6 scale f16 assuming it was a skymaster per the ad. Obviously it isn't and i didn't know enough to know that. So here i have a GJC model. This airplane has a lot of attention to detail but as i read this forum, i have a bit of work to do to it.

As my first turbine, I'm excited but yet scared to even work here without full support. My experience working on models is basically just working on aerobatics planes and aerobatic experience as a RC pilot.

As I read the previous forums it appears that non of the mods have been done to my model so there's a bit of work to do here. I read through the forum and I know people dont like to repeat themselves but i have yet to see a forum where anyone else looking for the same answers can get it all from one of this squared window. This should save anybody else like myself a lot of time and straight forward information with all mods the model needs and flying set up So far i've learned that;

-The CG should be around 220. Simple step and i get it and will set it up last. Please do tell me if there is a better one out there.

-The rudder has to be modified. Mine has big time play as it sits. Now i was thinking of just gluing a bearing where the play is visible (at the bottom of the rudder where it sits in the servo hole). Has anyone done that and has it work? I saw someones airplane where they attached an arm to the rudder and a linkage on the outside that runs down to the servo arms which is hanging out of the servo housing; all on the outside. What is the best/easiest/cleanest way to get this done right?

-Main Landing Gear!!
--probably the worst and scariest step in this build if i don't get the measurements right.
---I hear of raising the main gear to lower the back of the aircraft for a quicker roll out. Is this necessary? My runway is 500 ft so i hear that it takes a good 400 if not having this step done. Trying to avoid the rear fins to hit the ground or the rear of the aircraft on take off and landing. Someone in the forum somewhere said that by doing this takes away the scale appearance of the aircraft and that as an alternative to changing the landing gear height that its in the flap and elevator set up. Now for those that do that i would like to hear what if it really works for take off and landing. How slow are the landings this way and is it as forgiving?

-Nose landing gear. This seems simple but Which one is the right one to do.
--I hear to use nylon washers where the nose gear screws onto the wood structure of the aircraft to extend it to raise up the nose. I get this step and it is very simple to do.
--Another person placed something inside the nose gear shock to extend the the shock. Wouldn't that stiffen the shock too much where something else could give out? Also the wheel may not have clearance when retracting back into the fuse.

-Elevators.
--I haven't set them up yet because I am thinking of replacing the servos from hitec 7940TH (not 100 percent sure if this is whats in it) to JR 8711's; however the servos currently shake a lot! This leads me to hearing that some people balance them where others don't. Someone else has said that once there's wind over the surfaces, that stops but isn't this scary if your coming in really slow for a landing? Please advise as to what the best set up is.
--I haven't gotten a change to look at the elevator set up in the inside but i wanted to know is this a good elevator set up from Jetlegend?
--One more thing, since this is a full moving surface, whats zero/neutral set up?

Now, I'm going to go ahead and post a picture of a nipple on my folding ,main retract cylinder that has broken clean. This is a critical cylinder since if anything goes wrong or an air leak occurs, the gear will not lock This is a brand new set of landing gear that came from GJC so i am hoping that they do something about this. I sent an email to ([email protected]) on Friday night letting them know my scenario. Today is Monday and is a national Holiday so i am hoping that within this following week i get a reply; however I wanted to share this with everyone to see if anyone else had these pop off and if it is fixable or will the cylinder just have to be replaced.

michaelsarysz

I have the new Rivited version now, All i can say is OMG!

Jet Legend did an amazing job with this kit. It is very light, and very strong. My CG is now at 215. I mixed a bit of flaperons and tailerons for landing and it is a baby.

Very predictable on the landings, mains touch down and you can actually hold the nose wheel up like the real one. I am very impressed, it is a great strive forward to this already great

Kit. Great Job Jet Legend!