andretorres89

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can you send me a picture of the bottom of where the main retracts are? - like to see if the modified the location of the retracts.

what do you use for power?

Its great you enjoy flying your V3. Did you experience with the arf pro? which is the one I have?

michaelsarysz

andretorres89

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i have the ED scheme such as the guy in one of your pics. good looking jet

michaelsarysz

Also, I added a custom fuel / smoke tank to the Jet. I added 40 oz of smoke and 60 oz of fuel.

total fuel onboard is 196 oz fuel / smoke 40 oz - The tank was placed forward of the hatch and aft of the cockpit. All JR servos. New landing gear and air lines are great as well.

The air lines are very small like angel hair pasta they have these little couplings that close around the air nipple and for a very tight connection. Jet holds air till I use it.

I made a small modification to the gear to prevent swivel that we usually get in our wheels. will send pics asap of that

michaelsarysz

Thats my old one that he bought, it was grey camo, he painted it ED . I love that too!

Thanks!

andretorres89

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oh ok good to know.

andretorres89

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Could you tell me what you or your friend modified on the ED scheme jet and how its worked out. Im just going to need every bit of info from as many people as possible. Also would you consider that a good/ easy reliable jet to own; specially has a first turbine?

michaelsarysz

I feel that the new version is better than the old one for a first turbine.

First off it is lighter so Landing is very nice. This is my 3rd Jet Legend kit. I love it. I have been flying jets since 2007 and I still have an F-16 in my fleet.
They are a fighter military jet, so any boomerang / sport jet will be a heck of alot easier to fly / land but as far as all the Scale fighter Jets go, this 16 is very nice.

andretorres89

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Ok yeah i figured that it would be the case. I really enjoy scale models and the f16 has always been my fav fighter jet.

When possible could you tell me about mods on the Jetlegend that i have?(rudder, gear, flap/elevator set up)

michaelsarysz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4kdznsxVcI

michaelsarysz

Sure will do!

Malcolm Kay

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Andrea , this is Malcolm Kay.. and I have owned and flown four Jet legend F16"s with regard to the locking air cylinder nipple i have had the same thing occur , i simply cleaned the the residue from the cylinder surface and the mounting tube and replaced the nipple in the hole and glued with hysol generously and twenty four hours later i subjected the air cylinder to 120 psi test and all was well .. i flew the plane like that for twenty or more flights with no problem and when the replacement arrived fro JL I replaced it and kept the old one for a spare...since the old days five years ago with this model we have learned that the F16 flys way better if you programme your transmitter to switch to tailerons and flaps for take off and landing and switch to elevators and ailerons for fast flight.. dont be afraid of the scale fighter tag... this jet legend f16 is a joy to fly and is very stable in the landing configuration just slow it down hold the nose slightly up and hold on to the elevator in the flair you'll be fine... MK

andretorres89

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Ok so Malcoln, should I not modify the gear and instead just set up the airplane as you said?

And how did u modify your rudder?

Malcolm Kay

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Andre the only reason i first modified the gear position was to obtain the correct take off ... smooth transition from ground to flight and avoid that last second jump into the air.. with the set up as described the flaps do the work for you and there is no jump just a smooth take off very scale like.. as for the rudder i did not use any of the JL mechanism as I saw it as a recipe for flutter from the off... so I cut a two inch square in front of the rudder in the fin carefully checking where the spar was, at the base and installed a servo there with an outside linkage to the rudder... /.... not as pretty but safe! MK

andretorres89

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Alright great to know.

So I'll modify the gear and the rudder and with a the right mix set up on my surfaces I should be ready to roll.

Do you have any pictures of the rudder?

Thx Andre

andretorres89

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[QUOTE=mikedenilin;9ikki

Watch out on your Rudder servo installation servo. Make sure it's rock solid. I would prefer the conventional way of pull/pull. or the external linkages that other 1/6 F-16 builders did. Check with Billy and see how his F-16's rudder's installed. Let me know what you think. Thanks,

Mike[/QUOTE]

Mike, Billy, or anyone else out there,

I own the gjc 1/6 scale f 16 (arf pro- 3 piece fuse)

How can we get more info or even pics on the external rudder set up. Really wish I knew where all the formers lay inside the rudder before I open it up. Can anyone post pictures of their set up

Has anyone enforced any areas in particular on this plane? The SM guys suggested that an additional former should go below center of the rudder.

Im really looking forward to anyone who built one of these that is able to lay out what they have done to this bird to make it stronger.
Any help would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks!
Andre

bluescoobydoo

You should have got a set of plans with you jet it has the location of the ribs etc on them that's how I did mine

andretorres89

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I didn't know that was on the plans. I purchased the airplane used and didn't get the plans to go with it.

mikedenilin

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Hi Andre, please email to [email protected] and ask Mandy for photos and schematic diagram of installation of rudder servo. Our tech support would send you these photos and instruction.
i don't think you need to reinforce anything when you open up the correct servo tray location.

Mike

andretorres89

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ok, I went ahead and emailed Mandy. Thank you Mike.

Can anyone post pics of their rudder mod. Like to see how everyone has done it.

andretorres89

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Anyone still flying the GJC f16 arf pro?

Mark Vandervelden

Hi Andre

Here is a few photos of the flap/aileron and rudder linkages in my JL F16. I actually bought the kit from Jeff at Zedjets quite a wile ago and it was one of the first produced, in fact I believe it was the first here in the UK. Unfortunately it took me a long wile to get it as far as the work bench but I finally managed to build it over the Christmas break 2011. It has been flying regularly ever since and so far have enjoyed every minuet of it and have found very little ether in it construction or flying ability to criticize.. Finished and ready to fly less fuel It comes out out at just shy of 36lbs. I find it flys very well with plenty of go on its Wren 160 that's giving a little over 37lbs thrust. The Wren 160 itself has been faultless and has never missed a beat givein a good 8 minutes + flying time on the std tanks with the fuel level never falling low enough to encroach on its large 8oz UAT fitted below the inlet duct just in front of the U/C . The airframe has also been all but maintenance free only requiring a few few screws tightening on the UC after the first few flights. I have fitted 2 extra 350ml air tanks one ether side of the inlet ducts as you cant have too much air in reserve and air tanks weigh very little. The U/C is a work of art and has been very reliable but I find 100+lb is needed to get the mains up reliably as it picks up speed very quickly after it takes off. Flap is defiantly needed to get a smooth take-off or it hogs the ground due to its "scale" zero angel of attack when sitting on the tarmac. Landings are a sinch with or with out flap and it makes it look like I know what im doing but I must admit it hard to actually get them wrong!

As you can see from the pics I've stayed with the internal rudder linkage but have uprated it slightly, I don't like to see the rudder linkage outside if I can help it as its right in your face unlike all the other linkages which are at least underneath out the way.
Firstly I ran the linkage across from the far side of the servo (JR 8411) using a 14mm long metal servo arm out to the 16mm rudder horn on the nearside. All the ball raced linkages are set at 90deg and it gives a smooth over 30mm throw at the base of the rudder. The only part of the linkage that now shows from the outside is the small slot to clear the rudder horn you see in hatch cover on the first pic, If the rudder horn was at 15mm you would not have even seen that.
The second mod I made to the rudder linkage was to fit a 3mm pin protruding from the bottom of the alloy actuator rod. This in turn sits in a hole drilled in a small former fixed close to its base that's acting as a bearing supporting the bottom end of the rudder horn. This completely negates flex and in turn any slop in the linkage with the only backlash now being the servo gears them selves.

After having had in excess of 50 flights now and countless fast passes with this setup I can say its up to the job, it looks neat and so far has been maintenance free.

The only other mod ive made to standard JL install on the F16 is its Flap-Aileron linkages. Again I employed a cross linkage from the far side of the servo (JR 8511) viewed from the servo hatch then exiting with the 3mm pushrod passing through the wing skin just behind the hatch. This gives a very neat appearance as apposed to all the usual "Iron work" hanging out of the wing and no large slot to clear the servo horn and its linkage in the hatch cover. The flap servo itself in this instance is trapped snugly between the wood blocks you can see that in turn are glued to the top wing skin, then the hatch cover itself retains the servo and stops it from falling out!

stivvy

Hi Mark,

Are you using tailerons+flaps for take-off/landing, then switching to ailerons during flight ?

Cheers, Steve D

Mark Vandervelden

Hi Stivvy

I have had to use half flap (11mm at its tip) for take offs since day one or it hugs the ground un-till its going at heck of a speed before the elevators finely have enough air to bite.

In normal flight I use full aileron "10mm up and down at tip" and half elervon "20mm up and down at the front" works best but just ailerons + elevator alone works fine.

Landings are easiest with 5-10mm flap with half aileron (5mm each way) plus full tailerons, not had a bad or overly fast landing with this setup.
With half flap, no ailerons and full tailerons no real difference but you do need to move the aileron stick (taileron stick?) a little bit more.

I did find with full flap "20mm at tip" and tailerons alone it can quickly gets untidy so don't try that anymore, Don't like the idea of flaperons with lots of travel so have not tried it.

The partial flap setup for landings above works so well plus its also such an easy airframe to pull the nose up with and it looks the part I haven't found the need to experiment further .

Hope this helps a bit, Regards Mark V

Gary Szetlak

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Can I get all of your flight mode settings please? I will try to list what you have provided and also what I need

Take-off: flap 11mm at tip ( I am assuming that the ailerons are now flap only)
( How much throw on tailerons? pitch XXmm and roll XXmm)

Normal flight: Ailerons 10mm up and down at tip
Elevators 20mm up and down

When you switch between take off and normal flight do you switch off Tailerons and switch to aileron elevators with the flap switch or gear switch?

At landing do you have flaperons (ailerons also acting as flaps) and tailerons? How much roll mm and pitch mm on the tail?

Thank you for any and all advice

Gary