Hello Jason,

The tankstoppers are from a dealer in Berlin (http://www.airfighter.eu/) ~5 dollar for all ...

The rest is selfmade. The used material was carbon roving and a bit of 24h epoxy resin. to get the form i'fe use the tankstop itself with a bit of releasing agent..
before i build this i used sander and thinner to clean and prepare the tank.

Hi,

I build my plane quite simply... have a look at my airsystem ...

My fuel tank's held air overnight, but I am still going to run a piece of 9 oz seam tape around each tank.
Sand the seam and add the tape with 24 Hour epoxy.

GSR, find a scale, LOL. Mine is 170mm with gear down and I thought it was very nose heavy. I'm going much further aft, atleast another 20mm as I said earlier.

NT, thanks. My servo boxes were glued together and were floating around loose in the wings. I'm going to use this setup. http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...products_id=57
The FEJ throws for the stabilator, ailerons were good and felt very comfortable at -40% expo. I have a dual rate on my rudder so that only minimal steering and rudder throws are active from TO to LDG. Flaps were great as well and as the RCJI article mentioned there is very little pitch change. The pitch change that did occur was only slightly nose down and I expect this to be minimized by moving the CG aft.

Ok DR D, clue me in, what exactly is seam tape? Where do you get it?

Peter, your build is comming along nicely. Does the single festo on your air system plate service both tanks? If so, do you have check valves installed to prevent one system leak contaminating the other? I like your setup. I love the 12FG and have already been planning on a radio system upgrade. Futaba ofcourse! That will most likely be a purchase for next year.

I think this is a new picture on the FEJ instruction manual.


Phantoman, My setup:
AMT USA 280 (28lbs thrust) with airstart and 4600mah ni-mh sub "C" 8cell ECU pack. Its fairly heavy but I wanted simple, affordable, reliable capacity. I would like to use Li-fe or Li-poly as they are lighter. Simply a matter of money at this point. ElectroDynamics has a great setup using A123 cells and can make you a custom pack with their HD switch that is setup so you can charge via the switch using a CellPro. Great setup. The battery chemistry is still fairly new though. I have already seen one fail in a friends F-16.
Two 2600 Fromeco Li-ion packs into a Smart-Fly SuperReg which provides battery redundancy, switch redundancy and battery balancing to keep the packs even so I have a total of 5200mah for the Rx system.
http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Regulator/3.htm
Two SmartFly HD switches, one for each Fromeco pack. http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Switch/switch.htm Electro Dynamics also has a nice switch...viturtually the same.
I initially used Y harnesses on the ailerons, stabilators and flaps. The rudder servo wires were soldered together and combined on one male servo plug. This allowed me to use only one Y harness on the rudders and nose wheel steering servo.
All servos are digital hitecs with metal and ti gears. The rudders since they will virtually not move in flight are analog HS225BB servos with nylon gears. I have them setup with a 2:1 mechanical advantage to keep them firmly in position thus reducing the possibility of flutter. The nylon gears stay virtually slop free...much tighter than metal gears.
I used a Hitec servo programmer to setup all the endpoints and rotation directions. I'm going to port one of my two SuperReg Rx power outputs to one leg of the Aileron Y harness and run the other aileron servo lead into the free channel. This will allow me to use the ailerons as flaperons and should shorten the TO and LDG distances, lower stall speed and increase the ammount of power I can carry flying final approach to landing. This will keep spool up time to a minimum should more power be needed as in the case of a balked landing or a go-around.
I isolated the brakes to one air tank and used three tanks for the gear and doors.
FEJ brake valve plus one servo (analog hitec 322HD with Karbonite gears) They work great and are very inexpensive.
UP-6 Gear and doors valve plus one 322HD.
149DP PCM Futaba Rx
I utilized all FEJ control links, the ones for the stabilators seemed to be a little short and I may still replace them. All the others were great.
I did make up my own control linkages for the retract and brake servos.
I made up my own extensions with Airwild connectors and wire.
I also used hitecs own composite (black) servo horns....I like SWB but they are expensive and sometimes a pain to work with....I have also never seen one of the Black horns strip and I have raced 8th scale gas cars for years. They are very strong, lightweight and they are included with the servos.
Thats about all I can think of for now.

Funny I didn't get any "small woods" included with my jet. I also don't see them in this picture.

That would probably "fix" the issue I had and prevent it from happening. This would also provide something more substantial to screw the #0 screws into that attach the servo cover plates.

This is an evolution and I'm glad I got my jet back so I have a chance to make it right.

Hi Jason,

I use a barbed Y-connector after the Festovalve .. and use 2 further valves after the Y-connector... the festo one is a self closed valve vom Festo. It will bne close when you disconnect the tube.... from this.
I have a airsystgem for the retrakt an a 2nd airsystem for the brakes and geardoors ... i programmed the geardoorsequence with the T12fg TX... latest update (EU 1.6)

If you have a look to the picture you can see a Push-in Y-connector from festo ... i replace all the festo Push-in Y-connector where it is not usualy to use this because there are to expensive to use for nothing

Jason,

the "small wood" is for attaching the servo cover to the wing. I did something similar as the edges were too narrow for screw engagement. I do not remember if it was on this thread or the other, but I recomended Using strips of FG to secure the servo box. There just is not enough surface contact to prevent shear. Congrats non the first flight hope you have many more safe flights.

Regards,
Mike

Down at the bottom of this page. http://www.fibreglast.com/showproduc...Tapes-100.html

It use to be used to join fiberglass fuse's together. It is bound on both edges and gives a finished look. I have the 1 inch.

Hi All,
today were the day were i made the last things on my tanks .... ( not mine ... f15'th )...

the maintanks now are prepared to fit with festo 4mm tubes. I canged all messing pipes with a little bit bigger ones. The outside diamieter before was 3.45 mm and now is it 4mm.
The middle tank is now prepared to use 6mm Festo tubes.... as same as the UAT ... [sm=thumbup.gif]

I hope that i can build in the tanks into the f15 and can forget them for all times [8D]

Nice work.

Looking good. Thanks Dr.

Hello

My name is Yogev

I try to build the air brake of the airplane, will you be able to help me to receive the proportions of that air brake or any program you have that specify the building please?

Thank you very and i hope that you will be able to help me.


yogev.k

Hi Yogev,

side 6 on this Thread, Post 126,129 & 140 you found all the Info you need
for more Info send me a PM

Steven

Does anyone have video of their F-15 flying? I've seen the video on Fly Eagle's website. Just trying to get an idea of speed. It's hard to tell with their video because of the type of shots they got.
Thanks, Steve

Steve,

None of the F-15's of that general size are that fast - they have too much drag. I'd estimate that my FEJ F-15 with the P-120 does about 150 or so tops - which is about the same as the JL one I built for a friend...

Bob

Thanks.
Steve

Hi Guys – Just put the finishing touches to the Eagle and I am please to say she comes out at 25 pounds dry. C of G 150 aft (gear up) but may move some weight to the rear after her maiden.
My set up is elevon control and flaps. Kero start with Lipo’s. I have a battery backer using two 6v 5cell 2600ma packs. Three air tanks two in the rear for the gear and the break air is in the nose. 2.4 GHz Futaba FASST TM – 8 RF R608FS Receiver.
Digital Hitec 5965 for the Elevons and 645’s for the flaps and nose wheel.
The flap servo covers were backed with glass fibre and the servo installed direct. Beef up the corners so that you can secure the covers with cap screws.
I have used all the Eagle jet hardware and the only problem was with a leaking door ram [>:]which was sealed.
I also ordered the Eagle Jet Cockpit which was very poor and some work had to be done to make it fit. Apparently the cockpit bucket is supposed to come with the kit. (Another e-mail to James) One arrived very quickly and his e-mail replies are super quick.
You will notice in my photos that I have also stuck some heat blanket around potential hot spots and covered the elevon servos.
Just waiting for some fine weather for the maiden – Hope this helps those still in the build process.

at 150 your CG is way too far forward. Once again the gear retract forward so it needs to be balanced with the gear DOWN. I have mine at 165 right now and it still feels nose heavy sometimes. Get rid of the blanket around the pipe unless you need tail weight. Its a dual walled pipe and the outer pipe never gets much more than 100 F. Put some padding between the wing spar clamps and the tanks, the tanks are not thick to begin with and it will erode thru. I cant really tell from you shot positions but you pipe gap looks on the small side. It should be about 20-25 mm. One last thing-Move your cables on the stearing servo as far in as possible. You have then set for max throw right now. These can be squirrels on the ground and you are just going to make it worse with all that throw. Have fun. Scott

Thanks for your comments I will post some more photos later

I've always balanced my models in the flying configuration regardless of which way the gear retracts. If he balances the model with the gear down, when he retracts the gear, he's going to be a little nose heavier.
Steve

Right Steve, but when are you going to get in trouble with a tail heavy model?? It aint gonna be when you are going mach .9 and you have plenty of elevator authority. It will bite you when you slow down. When do you slow down? When you get in landing configuration. What do you do to get in landing configueration? Extend the gear. ALWAYS balance your models in landing configuration and especially when the gear extension will cause a rearward CG shift. Scotty

So after all I did to my F-15 (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8027650), I *finally* got a chance to test it today. The gyro, the Robart nose wheel, and the Tam's wheels and brakes were a good investment. The plane was actually a joy to take off now and it flew very well, as before - just like the JL one I flew.

The springs on the main landing gear are still too soft, so I'm going to put longer spacers inside the struts to compress them some more. The plane still tended to tip on landing in the cross wind and that caused it to "wheelbarrow" on two of the 6 flights I did. When I get that done, it should be just about finished.

Unfortunately, the engine quit on the last flight (ECU battery crapped out). The stab tips caught the ground on the deadstick landing and the stabs got flipped around 180 degrees - breaking the pivot mounts. A few hours work and they should be better than new...

Bob

Hi Bob. Great to hear you have sorted the u/c problems. Just curious, what is you all up weight, and where have you set the CofG?
Do you have the gyro on the nose wheel only, or on the nose and rudders?

Cheers,

Greg

Greg,

The gyro is on the nose wheel only. As soon as the plane rotates, its off, so just having it on the nose wheel solves the ground handling problems. The JL F-15 I had did a "dance" in yaw when it hit turbulence and so we put the gyro on the nose wheel and rudders, but honestly, this one doesn't seem to do that, at least that I can notice, so I kept the gyro on only the nose wheel. I also run the nose wheel and rudders on different channels so I can trim the steering, so its easiest to just put it on the nose wheel.

The plane is up-side down in the shop (again , but this time, its not the fault of any defective FEJ part), so I can't get you weight or CG right now. I'll do that in a few days when the repairs are finished...

Bob