Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
01-04-2009, 12:43 AM
#351
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Alan,
The whole job took me about 2 hours and that included air brushing the inside. By the way, I wanted to match the bright white and I found one in lacquer made by Pactra. Believe it or not, the name of the color is "Sprint White" and is is really a perfect match. The product # is RC51. I needed to touch up a few visible spots on the intake next to 2 of the tabs. One touch of a fine tip brush with the white and later the same thing with clear and there is no visible sign of a repair.
Doc...
The whole job took me about 2 hours and that included air brushing the inside. By the way, I wanted to match the bright white and I found one in lacquer made by Pactra. Believe it or not, the name of the color is "Sprint White" and is is really a perfect match. The product # is RC51. I needed to touch up a few visible spots on the intake next to 2 of the tabs. One touch of a fine tip brush with the white and later the same thing with clear and there is no visible sign of a repair.
Doc...
01-04-2009, 01:03 AM
#352
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Gary,
Nice neat install
about your air leak. I bought a plyers designed to do wire ties. Every fitting has a tie on it, no matter what. It's a little time consuming but worth it. I should be ready mid to end of next week to start the install of all the goodies. Right now I'm in the process of doing the final install on the nose gear. I had to wait for Todd from Dreamworks to swap my nose wheel. What we did is increase the size of the mains to 3" instead of the 2 5/8" that he usually supplies. He also had sent me a 2 5/8" wheel for the nose but it wouldn't fit in the retract so we had to go down to the orriginal 2 1/4" size. Since these retracts were designed for the Sprint, he designed them to have a 2 degree down insident. Well, since the mains are 3/8" larger than the norm, I just finished adding a 3/8" spacer block for the nose gear to compensate the difference. It came out good. By the way, you think it's cold where you are, come to Michigan where we just got rid of 3 feet of snow and the temps are about 18 with 20-30 mph winds. I guess we wouldn't need flaps would we. Keep me up to date and will talk to you soon.
Doc...
Nice neat install
about your air leak. I bought a plyers designed to do wire ties. Every fitting has a tie on it, no matter what. It's a little time consuming but worth it. I should be ready mid to end of next week to start the install of all the goodies. Right now I'm in the process of doing the final install on the nose gear. I had to wait for Todd from Dreamworks to swap my nose wheel. What we did is increase the size of the mains to 3" instead of the 2 5/8" that he usually supplies. He also had sent me a 2 5/8" wheel for the nose but it wouldn't fit in the retract so we had to go down to the orriginal 2 1/4" size. Since these retracts were designed for the Sprint, he designed them to have a 2 degree down insident. Well, since the mains are 3/8" larger than the norm, I just finished adding a 3/8" spacer block for the nose gear to compensate the difference. It came out good. By the way, you think it's cold where you are, come to Michigan where we just got rid of 3 feet of snow and the temps are about 18 with 20-30 mph winds. I guess we wouldn't need flaps would we. Keep me up to date and will talk to you soon.Doc...
01-04-2009, 05:36 AM
#353
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hello Doc, my goodness, thought we had it bad here. I guess there's no rush to get finished then. I could do with bigger wheels myself as I will be flying off grass, I guess I wont be needing brakes though.
I saw on this thread earlier a debate about incidences but its not a problem, one good bump and you are up where I fly!
Be nice to keep in touch and compare first flights etc.
I've already lockwired everything and still can't find leaks, never had this problem with air retracts before, it's really baffling, I will just have to stick at it, I'm really curious to find out what's causing them.
Gary.[sm=75_75.gif]
I saw on this thread earlier a debate about incidences but its not a problem, one good bump and you are up where I fly!
Be nice to keep in touch and compare first flights etc.
I've already lockwired everything and still can't find leaks, never had this problem with air retracts before, it's really baffling, I will just have to stick at it, I'm really curious to find out what's causing them.
Gary.[sm=75_75.gif]
01-04-2009, 08:06 AM
#354
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: London, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Regarding your problem with the broken bolt head. If there's enough bolt left to get hold of, cut out an access panel about 1" square and use pliers on it. ( Patricia will send you FOC some covering if you do this and need to re-cover there.)
The blocks that have the 3mm bolt in them are close to 5/8" cubes in size, built into a box in the wing. If you can't get the old bolt out, I would try to drill and tap a new bolt hole right next to the old one (obviously in line with the alloy rod direction) and use a new bolt of a thread of 3mm, 4mm or 4/40 or similar size. If the alloy rod is still trapped in the block, cut it off, drill it out and we'll send you a new one.
It is not necessary to use great force to hold the alloy rods in position. The forces pulling the wings off in flight are very small. The strength of the wings comes from the C/F spar, and the alloy rods just ensure the wings don't slide sideways.
Though there was a recent posting on the Elan thread ([link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6494135/mpage_56/key_/tm.htm[/link] (on page 56 post 1398)) where the Elan took off and then Bob realised the carbon spar had not been fitted . so the outer wing panels were entirely supported by the alloy rods alone. A hasty landing followed and the Elan survived it!!
The blocks that have the 3mm bolt in them are close to 5/8" cubes in size, built into a box in the wing. If you can't get the old bolt out, I would try to drill and tap a new bolt hole right next to the old one (obviously in line with the alloy rod direction) and use a new bolt of a thread of 3mm, 4mm or 4/40 or similar size. If the alloy rod is still trapped in the block, cut it off, drill it out and we'll send you a new one.
It is not necessary to use great force to hold the alloy rods in position. The forces pulling the wings off in flight are very small. The strength of the wings comes from the C/F spar, and the alloy rods just ensure the wings don't slide sideways.
Though there was a recent posting on the Elan thread ([link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6494135/mpage_56/key_/tm.htm[/link] (on page 56 post 1398)) where the Elan took off and then Bob realised the carbon spar had not been fitted . so the outer wing panels were entirely supported by the alloy rods alone. A hasty landing followed and the Elan survived it!!
01-04-2009, 10:31 AM
#355
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
ORIGINAL: Doc...
................... Well, since the mains are 3/8" larger than the norm, I just finished adding a 3/8" spacer block for the nose gear to compensate the difference.
................... Well, since the mains are 3/8" larger than the norm, I just finished adding a 3/8" spacer block for the nose gear to compensate the difference.
Sorry Doc but the difference is only 3/16 from the center of the axle, it's on the top and bottom of the tire
01-04-2009, 11:52 PM
#356
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi,
Have you checked your tanks and lines under water? I had a problem with a slow leak and found that it was the tank where the problem was. This is my 1st time using breaks so this should be interesting.
Doc...
Have you checked your tanks and lines under water? I had a problem with a slow leak and found that it was the tank where the problem was. This is my 1st time using breaks so this should be interesting.
Doc...
01-05-2009, 06:29 AM
#357
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Doc, good idea, I'll check that tonight, major job getting tanks out, got to remove ECU but it may just be worth it!
Thanks, Gary.
Thanks, Gary.
01-05-2009, 04:26 PM
#358
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi,
Everything in a Jet is a pain because there is so much. Hope that works. As far as the wire ties, use .20 gauge wire. The pliers I bought were designed just for that but I will tell you it's worth it. There is about 1mm between the barb and the nut and that's where to put it. Cut your self a piece of wire about 6mm and wrap it around twice then pull and straignten the 2 ends. By pulling the wire, you can guide it to the exact point you want then always pull while twisting the wire. Those pliers automaticaly twist the wire without you having to twist. If you get the wire tight enough, nothing will come loose and no air leak. I just finished the installation of the nose gear along with the pull pull system. I added a feature which will disable it from getting tangled up in side. I have to take some pictures and post them. If you want to see that feature, go to http://www.dreamworksrc.com/ and once on the home page, go to "Tips and How to". There is also a great Flight Log program you can downlosd. Everything I have pruchased for the Sprint is in the program for future reference.
Stay warm,
Doc...
Everything in a Jet is a pain because there is so much. Hope that works. As far as the wire ties, use .20 gauge wire. The pliers I bought were designed just for that but I will tell you it's worth it. There is about 1mm between the barb and the nut and that's where to put it. Cut your self a piece of wire about 6mm and wrap it around twice then pull and straignten the 2 ends. By pulling the wire, you can guide it to the exact point you want then always pull while twisting the wire. Those pliers automaticaly twist the wire without you having to twist. If you get the wire tight enough, nothing will come loose and no air leak. I just finished the installation of the nose gear along with the pull pull system. I added a feature which will disable it from getting tangled up in side. I have to take some pictures and post them. If you want to see that feature, go to http://www.dreamworksrc.com/ and once on the home page, go to "Tips and How to". There is also a great Flight Log program you can downlosd. Everything I have pruchased for the Sprint is in the program for future reference.
Stay warm,
Doc...
01-05-2009, 05:22 PM
#359
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Vernon,
NJ
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
hey Doc thats funny that you mentioned the nose gear set up. I just finished installing my gear
and I did the same thing that you did. even download the tips and How To's.
and I did the same thing that you did. even download the tips and How To's.
01-05-2009, 05:47 PM
#360
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Larnaca, CYPRUS
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hello
Easiest way to find a leak is to spray some window cleaner ( Ajax etc. ) in a small cup and then brush it on with a small brush ( the ones used for painting plastic models ) on all the suspect connections. It goes without saying that your system must be pressurised. If there is a leak then it will be immediately obvious and from the exact location as the liquid will start to foam. If you are using the JET-1A air cylinders, all the ones I ever had leaked on the top at the nipple arrangement. I fixed them by using Hysol on the leak area.
Paul
Easiest way to find a leak is to spray some window cleaner ( Ajax etc. ) in a small cup and then brush it on with a small brush ( the ones used for painting plastic models ) on all the suspect connections. It goes without saying that your system must be pressurised. If there is a leak then it will be immediately obvious and from the exact location as the liquid will start to foam. If you are using the JET-1A air cylinders, all the ones I ever had leaked on the top at the nipple arrangement. I fixed them by using Hysol on the leak area.
Paul
01-05-2009, 06:04 PM
#361
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Thanks guys, leak detecting tomorrow.
Good tip I found today, if anybody else's Profilm is like mine was it's a pig to get the wrinkles out.
I borrowed a friends paint stripper gun and tonight waved goodbye to all the wrinkles for good.
You have to be careful but my goodness it does the job, I found ironing useless and haven't got a film shrink gun.
I was so chuffed with the result I then proceeded to make a GIANT cockup. Apologies to all our American friends on here but I actually managed to get a US Decal the wrong way up! A cardinal sin and it looks like I'm stuck with it for a while. And it looks horrible. Win some, lose some!
Good tip I found today, if anybody else's Profilm is like mine was it's a pig to get the wrinkles out.
I borrowed a friends paint stripper gun and tonight waved goodbye to all the wrinkles for good.
You have to be careful but my goodness it does the job, I found ironing useless and haven't got a film shrink gun.
I was so chuffed with the result I then proceeded to make a GIANT cockup. Apologies to all our American friends on here but I actually managed to get a US Decal the wrong way up! A cardinal sin and it looks like I'm stuck with it for a while. And it looks horrible. Win some, lose some!
01-06-2009, 03:03 PM
#362
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
YES, YES YES, Success at last!
Thought I'd cracked the retract leak this evening, using the washing up liquid and water trick I found a leak on a Festo t piece.
All my connections and lockwiring were 100% sound.
Changed the T and rechecked, still a leak!
So, using Docs suggestion I next checked the tanks and the air was pg out of both of them at the O/D joint between the cylinder face and outer tubing. The nipple soldering was sound.
So, must get on to Ali now and advise him to change suppliers for air tanks!
Many, many thanks to all you guys that have given me advice, it's great to have sorted it!
Gary.
Thought I'd cracked the retract leak this evening, using the washing up liquid and water trick I found a leak on a Festo t piece.
All my connections and lockwiring were 100% sound.
Changed the T and rechecked, still a leak!
So, using Docs suggestion I next checked the tanks and the air was pg out of both of them at the O/D joint between the cylinder face and outer tubing. The nipple soldering was sound.
So, must get on to Ali now and advise him to change suppliers for air tanks!
Many, many thanks to all you guys that have given me advice, it's great to have sorted it!
Gary.
01-06-2009, 03:23 PM
#363
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Gary,
FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! good job. I can only tell you over the years I have never had a problem with Robart tanks. Just a thought.
Doc...
FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! good job. I can only tell you over the years I have never had a problem with Robart tanks. Just a thought.
Doc...
01-07-2009, 01:18 AM
#365
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Gary,
If you have a problem getting them, let me know. Just wondering when your transporting the Sprint to the flied, how much assembly are we looking at? Are you going to have the booms and elev already attached? I would like to have only the right and left wing panels to install but the booms are only supported by the carbon fiber tube. I havn't tried it yet but maybe the fit is tight enough. Any thoughts? When you talk to Ali, remind him of our conversation 3 weeks ago about Michigan Jets. I never gave hin a dates which is August 7, 8, 9th. Keep in touch.
Doc...
If you have a problem getting them, let me know. Just wondering when your transporting the Sprint to the flied, how much assembly are we looking at? Are you going to have the booms and elev already attached? I would like to have only the right and left wing panels to install but the booms are only supported by the carbon fiber tube. I havn't tried it yet but maybe the fit is tight enough. Any thoughts? When you talk to Ali, remind him of our conversation 3 weeks ago about Michigan Jets. I never gave hin a dates which is August 7, 8, 9th. Keep in touch.
Doc...
01-07-2009, 01:24 AM
#366
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: London, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
You can, of course, leave the alloy rods in place in the centre wing so the booms will stay on OK when you take the Sprint to the field.
That works fine, and is what I do.
01-07-2009, 04:47 AM
#367
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Alan,
OK, then once at the field, just screw the 4 aloy rods into the two wing panels and finish securing the wings. I forgot those rods are threaded on only one end; the end that goes into the wing, not the center wing. Thanks,
Doc...
OK, then once at the field, just screw the 4 aloy rods into the two wing panels and finish securing the wings. I forgot those rods are threaded on only one end; the end that goes into the wing, not the center wing. Thanks,
Doc...
01-07-2009, 05:07 AM
#368
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Doc, I'm going to use a tip from Alan earlier in this thread, insert a small captive nut in the inner wing behind the outer rib and secure the booms with a small bolt, that way they can stay in place with little or no movement, simple job.
01-07-2009, 08:16 AM
#369
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Corby,
I must have have missed that post but the idea is great. Thanks. By the way, on the carbin fiber tube, I read in the instructions that tube needs fit snug. He mentions a piece of heat shrink to tighten it up if needed. Mine has to be twisted with a fair amount of pressure pushing forward. Does that sound about the right tightness?
Thanks for your help,
Doc...
I must have have missed that post but the idea is great. Thanks. By the way, on the carbin fiber tube, I read in the instructions that tube needs fit snug. He mentions a piece of heat shrink to tighten it up if needed. Mine has to be twisted with a fair amount of pressure pushing forward. Does that sound about the right tightness?
Thanks for your help,
Doc...
01-07-2009, 08:45 AM
#370
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: London, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
That instruction regarding the heatshrink is an error in the build manual.
It should be disregarded. It was a "carry over" from a previous manual in the XL kit.
Don't ask me how it got there, but it will be deleted in future Sprint kits!
If you can push the carbon fibre spar through comfortably, even tight fit, then it's OK.
It should be disregarded. It was a "carry over" from a previous manual in the XL kit.
Don't ask me how it got there, but it will be deleted in future Sprint kits!
If you can push the carbon fibre spar through comfortably, even tight fit, then it's OK.
01-07-2009, 11:01 AM
#371
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi Alan,
As always, Thanks! You know you even included the heat shrink. Just received my 2nd Sprint yesterday and that note was still there. No big deal..
Doc...
As always, Thanks! You know you even included the heat shrink. Just received my 2nd Sprint yesterday and that note was still there. No big deal..
Doc...
01-07-2009, 11:30 AM
#372
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Ö³tersundJamtland, SWEDEN
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi, I have some questions regarding the sprint,
how long oleos is needed for the main and noose retracts?
And maximum diameter of the weels?
Is it neceserry to heat protect the stab?
I am going to use a P80 in mine sprint who arriwes soon I hope, and perhaps the maiden will take part on skies upp here in the frozen north.
only 5 month left untuill we see the grass again[:@]
K-Ã…
how long oleos is needed for the main and noose retracts?
And maximum diameter of the weels?
Is it neceserry to heat protect the stab?
I am going to use a P80 in mine sprint who arriwes soon I hope, and perhaps the maiden will take part on skies upp here in the frozen north.
only 5 month left untuill we see the grass again[:@]
K-Ã…
01-07-2009, 02:03 PM
#373
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids,
MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Hi,
As far as the retracts, it depends which ones you are going to use. Dreamworks has a set designed for the Sprint for $825.00 US Dollars. Todd is very good at what he does. That price includes everything inc 2/58" mains and a 2/14" nose wheel. As far as the tape on the elev, I talked to Bob Wilcox from Jet Cat on Monday and he said it's not a bad idea to put a strip on the leading edge of the stab. He said the problem occurs at the top end of the rpm's. If you want to talk to him, his number is 805-226-8700. He knows exactly the reasons. Be sure to protect the back end of the fuse and the turtle deck from the heat.
Doc...
As far as the retracts, it depends which ones you are going to use. Dreamworks has a set designed for the Sprint for $825.00 US Dollars. Todd is very good at what he does. That price includes everything inc 2/58" mains and a 2/14" nose wheel. As far as the tape on the elev, I talked to Bob Wilcox from Jet Cat on Monday and he said it's not a bad idea to put a strip on the leading edge of the stab. He said the problem occurs at the top end of the rpm's. If you want to talk to him, his number is 805-226-8700. He knows exactly the reasons. Be sure to protect the back end of the fuse and the turtle deck from the heat.
Doc...
01-07-2009, 02:13 PM
#374
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Ö³tersundJamtland, SWEDEN
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
Thanks for a quick reply, what do you use for heat protection att back end of fuse and turtledeck?
The reason for my question of the landinggear is that I have a complete set of retracts from eurokit in my workshop and I was planning to use them. But I have no Oleos for them yet but i am planning to order oleos in the near future.
BRG K-Ã…
The reason for my question of the landinggear is that I have a complete set of retracts from eurokit in my workshop and I was planning to use them. But I have no Oleos for them yet but i am planning to order oleos in the near future.
BRG K-Ã…
01-07-2009, 08:16 PM
#375
RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread!
ORIGINAL: Doc...
Hi,
As far as the retracts, it depends which ones you are going to use. Dreamworks has a set designed for the Sprint for $825.00 US Dollars. Todd is very good at what he does. That price includes everything inc 2/58" mains and a 2/14" nose wheel. As far as the tape on the elev, I talked to Bob Wilcox from Jet Cat on Monday and he said it's not a bad idea to put a strip on the leading edge of the stab. He said the problem occurs at the top end of the rpm's. If you want to talk to him, his number is 805-226-8700. He knows exactly the reasons. Be sure to protect the back end of the fuse and the turtle deck from the heat.
Doc...
Hi,
As far as the retracts, it depends which ones you are going to use. Dreamworks has a set designed for the Sprint for $825.00 US Dollars. Todd is very good at what he does. That price includes everything inc 2/58" mains and a 2/14" nose wheel. As far as the tape on the elev, I talked to Bob Wilcox from Jet Cat on Monday and he said it's not a bad idea to put a strip on the leading edge of the stab. He said the problem occurs at the top end of the rpm's. If you want to talk to him, his number is 805-226-8700. He knows exactly the reasons. Be sure to protect the back end of the fuse and the turtle deck from the heat.
Doc...
care to elaborate on what Bob told you without having to call him myself? I've got a little over 64 turbine hours between two boomers and Ive never so much as wrinkled the covering on the stab. i've checked by sticking my hand between the stab and the jet blast at full RPM and the heat is well below the stab.