Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

Yes, please divulge the secret data!

R/C Gypsy

I agree with KC....I don't see a heat problem of any kind at the tail.......after 52 flights.

See post #144

Paul

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,
Some guys use Alum tape but many use BVM Heat shield Paint and BVM Heat Shield Blanket. I guess I did an over kill and will probably pay for it on the CG but I started with 2 coats of heat shield paint, then the blanket followed by 2 final coats of the paint. Were not talking about much weight here but it is in the rear. One thing to be aware of is on the turtle deck. Once you adjust everything and it slides on smooth, you'll notice it is not secure at the very back end. I actually added one additional holding pin on each side just like the ones installed from the factory. I will tell you that some where in this thread I had addressed this issue and one of the guys posted a picture showing his hold down method by using 2 BVM Canopy hooks. That method is just as good as what I did but much easier. I'll look for the post # and get back to you.

Doc...

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

I'm sure what your telling me about ship is correct. There has been much talk about the heat problem. I had to call Bob about another matter and I brought up this issue about the Stab. What I posted that you read is just what he said. I admit he said it didn't seem to be much of a problem but probably not a bad idea to use the tape just in case.

Doc...

KC36330

I've seen several cooked stabs on twin boom designs, all from hot starts and sorry but the aluminum tape isn't much help there.

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Bob did mention that some of the guys were using some sort of alum ducting while starting up. That was probably why. He is the expert, not me. That's why I called him.

Doc...

Turbinac

In my experience (approaching a thousand twin boom flights) any heat damage to the stab (tailplane) ALWAYS occurs at low RPM and when the model is facing with the tail into the wind. The low velocity heat gets pushed back under the tail and rises. At high RPM or when facing into the wind, the hot blast does not get to the underside of the tail.

phjoker

My Feedback: (4)

I was wondering what size air tanks are you guys using???? I have been looking at all the pictures posted here and everyones BVM UAT's
seem to fit alot lower then mine does. The side where the UAT goes is where my brake air tank is. Could I get away with a robart X-small tank. I have a lg and med and both don't let it sit lower. Suggestions please.Since this is my first plane with brakes will the XS tank be enough. I am also using the airpower AP1U air valve if that matters or not.
thanks guys

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

I went to Walmart and bought two hair spray cans that were the biggest I could find that fit in the intended spots. Emptied them, drilled out the valves on top, cleaned them out as well as I could and soldered in a brass tube. I then proof tested them to over 150 psi. They have been working great!

turbinepeter

I have a spare super sport, was wondering what the Sprint goes like with this combo. I am after good vertical performance, or am i best with the Elan.

Plan on keeping it as light as possible.

Regards

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys,

I have seen different companies selling "do it yourself decals" with various pricing. Has anyone used or tried to use the decal sheets from the following company?
http://www.decalpaper.com The process explained on there web site looks very simple and rather inexpensive as long as you have a color printer, if you want to do color.
Thanks,

Doc...

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

If you look up a thread called Major Woody's F4, on RCU, he has his Nomenclature printed, on a Black and White Laser printer, using this type of material. It may not be the same company, but it is the same type of material. He has several other threads for an F5, L39, A4, F18, T45. He represents the Fei Bao Team. He is an excellent builder and pilot. He made hundreds of jet flights last year.

john agnew

Peter

I have a Supersport in my Sprint although unflown as yet. Based on my experience with both the original Baby Boomer and the Elan which were both flown with the Supersport I am expecting the combination to be perfect with low weight and plenty of power.

John

turbinepeter

John

Thanks for the reply.

If I decide on the Sprint, I want good performance from my SS.

So will keep it very very simple. Fixed short wire legs, so NO retracts/Valves, tanks.

Semi Auto start ECU.

Want to keep it as light as possible.

Although called Als Hobb today, and they have no stock for a couple of weeks!!

KC36330

the drag of a fixed gear offsets any performance gain over the weight of retracts.

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,
Thanks Rick!!!

Doc...

madmodelman

Alan, or anybody using a P80, I just noticed the bottom of my engine is almost touching the rear former. I'm worried the heat may scorch the former, any one else had this problem?
I can always take some material from the former, can't raise the engine else k/start will foul top cover. I'm using a standard P80 mount.

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

Let it scorch it. That will not hurt a thing. It will only be a local darkened spot.

KC36330

it'll be fine, at that part of the case there won't be enough radiated heat to cause discoloration with the ceramic paint on there like you have.

madmodelman

That's great, thanks guys.

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

Even if it causes discoloration, so what? Wood is an excellent insulator and contact with the engine casing is not going to ignite the wood.

ltdorn1

My Feedback: (39)

Ah.... looks like your engine is riding low. its not centered with the engine mount formers. while this might not seem like a big deal, your not going to get even cooling around your engine. I personnelly wouldn't close the cooling gap that small. Plus i think the Jetcat guys recommend a minimum gap distance around the engine.

R/
Lawrence

KC36330

JetCat does not have a published minimum that I'm aware of and on a boomer there is no need for bypass air to get past the turbine for pipe cooling (it has no pipe) and it's even recommended on earlier boomers to build a wood shroud around the turbine to reduce the gap because at times the turbine (especially when over sized such as the P80 in the Baby boomer) was sucking the hot gas back to the intake stalling the compressor. later in production the Baby started including provisions for additional intake holes to be placed in the top canopy for additional air for larger turbines to be used.

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,
Speaking of the P-80, do you have an exact location for the mount and where the Turbine needs to be in relationship to the engine compartment?
Thanks,

Doc...

KC36330

with the eye rolling I'm not sure if you're trying to be a smartass or not but the turbine should be centered. in the pic above it appears that the 3/8 spacer required for the JetCat offset mount was not used (the turbine sits low of center), BUT it's of little importance in this setup, you can't burn a hole in a pipe that isn't there.