Can anyone please tell me if it will cause a problem slightly undoing the cylinder cap on an air retract cylinder?

I have a problem with the inner nipple coming out the side fouling and need to rotate 270 degrees to get clearance. I thought about mechanically moving the cylinder through 180 degrees then loosening the cap by 1/4 turn.

Would this cause a leak?

What type of retract is it?

Sorry, I should have said, I think it's a Pro-lynx set from Digitech, one of Al's, the one with Als Hobbies etched all over it!

Is the cylinder body not attached to the frame?

In which case you only have the option of rotating it 180 degrees. Loosening the cap won't move the nipple as that is attached to the side of the cylinder. Have I misunderstood what you are trying to do?

Any pictures?

Yes, the nipple is in the cyl cap so if I unscrew it 90 degrees plus the 180 then the problem would be cured. I'm just worried that unscrewing it a bit would cause an air leak, Gary.

I think I see what you are doing. The nipple in the cap of mine is straight hence the confusion. I assume yours is 90 degree then?

Could you swap it for a straight nipple instead?

As to the air leaking, I guess the only way to find out would be to try it and do a leak check. I would at least put some sealant on the cap. My personal preference would be to solve the main issue if possible. i.e. remove the restriction so that the nipple will fit. Anything that is 'bodged' tends to go wrong later down the line and will cause future problems IMO.

Again, pics might help.

I'm sure you are right. Just going to have to find a dentists drill somewhere then!
Thanks for your help,
Gary.

Hi Gary!

Before you get started with the drill, you might want to take a picture of your "problem" and upload it here...

David

Hi gary

you need to test it also at high preasure..
you can rotate it
also what you can do is , take of the cap , degrease it.
put some locktite sealer on to the thread and rotate in place where you want it.
i did it also before..

Thanks guys,

Sandor! the man himself. That's great, never thought of sealing the threads, that would solve the problem.

You will know what the problem was, really difficult to relieve the bearers under the risers!

Thanks again, on with the build!
Gary.

what model are you putting them in?

is it the sprint? we made a manual for that one , incl that problem you describe

Yes Sandor, Sprint. I downloaded your instructions for retract installation but could find no mention of the problem, from memory it just says "releive bearers to clear tubing" but I can't get into it properly with a Dremel so thought easiest way would be to have the nipple coming out underneath the nose retract. Gary.

well that is would be my poor language ....
anyway what i did was dremel a bit of the former off , exactly where that nipple would rest this should be half down the formers?.
bend the tube 90 degrees put the retract in and the tube will bend itself into a curve again..
i forgot to make a picture of it..

No Sandor, your english is very good. The nipple protrudes further forward than the former, maybe I have got the retracts too far forward. I am having to attack the actual spruce bearer. Now, when I got the retracts off Ali there was no risers in the kit. He then sent me some plywood 8mm thick, I am wondering whether this is too thick resulting in the cylinder not going deep enough therefore fouling the bearer. This make sense to you?

In response to your original question. it depends where the cap is sealed onto the cylinder. the cap usually has an oring and if the oring seal is on the top interface between cylinder wall and cap surface, it will leak if you loosen it, if its sealing on the Outside diameter side to the cylinder wall it wont leak. you have to open it and see where the seal line between the oring and the parts are.

hope this helps

Jason