I used the kit screws.

Got all the bits painted and stickers on, starting to look pretty good! I found the CARF touch up paints to be very easy to spray well, perfect matches, and they dry quick at 4:1 too. I basically copied the 2010 scheme pictured on page 56, it is very scale looking without repainting the tail. I decided after flying it that I wanted to leave as much color as possible too. Even adding a lot of color to the fuselage strakes as well.

Is there another source for replacement tires for the CARF landing gear. I need to buy an extra set and the price quoted was kind of a shock. Do the nose gear tires wear like the mains? We are flying off rough old runways.

Just out of interest how much did they want for tyres?

Also I managed to get my tail plane painted yesterday finishing with the black... Looks good just the wing now

Have started another probe for rhklenke which should be finished Monday/Tuesday

Alan

Dreamworks carries the tires @23.95ea, at last check CARF wanted $49.95ea! http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...placement-Tire

These are the OEM tires used by Airtec, the manufacturer of the CARF gear.

Yes, they wear very fast if flying off of pavement. They look like race slicks after about 30 flights.

Mike

Thanks, that is what I was quoted, 49.95 for one tire. I will call Dreamworks tomorrow. And you can bet I'll be using my brakes as little as possible.

i see airtech have the tires for 13 euro each , and since they are the ones making the tires for carf , would probably better match the original part than the intrairco tire
http://www.airtech-germany.de

best to contact erwin directly

Airtech uses the Intarico tires on their wheels, they don't make their own tires. Yes, you can order them direct from Airtech but, for someone in the US, it's easier to get them from Dreamworks

Mike

No.
Flash uses Intairco wheels/tyres and brakes.
The Hawk uses AirTech Germany wheels/Tyres and brakes.

Dave

Yea, I looked at my Hawk wheels/tires last night and the ones on the Dreamworks site don't look anything like them.

Does anyone know exactly which ones on the Airtech site are for the Comp ARF Hawk?

Bob

Well I apologize for any misinformation guys but, when looking for tires for my Hawk, I contacted Erwin at Airtech, who told me he could sell them to me direct or I could order them from Shulman aviation as he had just sent a bunch to him.

I ordered them from Shulman, when they arrived, they were in Intarico packaging and were identical to the originals. So, I assumed ( maybe wrongly) that Airtec simply gets them from Intarico.

Mike

No idea on that tie up. Airtech and Behotec share tyres.

These are the Hawk tyres. Maybe Behotec suppliers in North America? They have 100 ingraved on the centre rib.

My gear have Intairco 4" wheels and brakes. looks a bit more scale with the bigger wheels.

Actually the CARF ones are 4" too :-) If I'm picky, one of the many misses on "scale" Hawks is the wheels, look at a Hawk and the tyres are a large part of the diameter...unlike the Intairco wheels and more like the Airtech ones ;-)

Dave

Possibly Intarico makes them as you said? They do, however look different than the "stock" tires that Intarico makes for their hubs/brakes...

Bob

Very much doubt it. Intairco only just got onto the moulded tyres from the original "hard" machined ones. Airtech tyres are soft foam with a hard skin, go though that and the tyre wears really quick. Lots of grease on the brakes needed!

Bob (rhklenke)

Your probe nearly finished just the thread and insert to do then it will be on its way to you

Alan

Main gear doors / Hinges:
Kenrico - i see you have a spacer of some sort before the phenolic hinges ,
does this help to offset the gear doors when it opens
i read the building manual , and could not understand the 13mm brom the back corner issue ( does this mean centerline of the hinge needs to be 13mm from door or place the first hinge 13mm from corner of door panel - but then how far out does the hinge line need to be away from the door
any help appreciated
does this make sense?

thx

Izzy, if you mean the white tube on the rod, its actually part of the hinge, once you have the rod position then you glue the plastic tube to the wing, and that is what holds the metal rod in place.
The hinge (small one) is the one you need to position 13mm from the back edge of the door and the from that hinge measure 82mm and there is where you put the bigger hinge where the air cylinder attach to.
on the hinge line im not sure, cant remember how I did that part, maybe Dave can comment on that one.
hope that helps!

Izzy i found this pic of the door when i was building. you can see the position of the hinges, they are all the way in with the edge of the semi circle touching the edge of the door.

Kenrico thx
on the picture you posted looked like there is a rectangular spacer below the hinge
at first I had the hinge at the edge if the semi circle but it kept interfering with the wing when opening the door
so I thought I had it wrong
somehow I need the door to lift with slight offset to miss the wing
doni need to sand away the green foam to get the white tube closer to the skin?

if you mean this spacer if i remember correctly, i used them because the wing was actually a little thicker on that side and it needed those to get the rod holes on the phenolic hinge to line up with the plastic ones glued on to the wing. if looking at the wing inverted like the pic, the hinges need to drop lower to line up. you could either sand the inside skin down or do what i did the plywood under the hinges.
I also sanded down on an angle the edge of the doors to get better clearance from the wing.

The wing skin does seem to vary in thickness, because of the foam placement. I usually file the foam away to the carbon and have the plastic tube glued to that, but packing away the hinge works just the same and is probably less work!
The hinge line does need to be as close the the surface as possible so the door clears the lower skin as it opens. Also on the hinges there is a small notch that was designed as the locator for the hinge against the door. It helps if you pull this away from the door a fraction (so the rod is a bit further away from the door edge) as the door can rub on the lower wing skin and limit opening.

Great, Alan, thanks! Flap covers are on the way too from Dave via Marty, I believe

Just picked up the flap covers at the PO. Thanks Dave.

Alan, I should've contacted you before you made Bob N and now Bob K's pitot tubes and requested that you make theirs just a little smaller than mine because once we get our Hawks together at the field their might be this whole comparison thing going on and the next thing you know a pitot sword fight breaks out. It could get ugly.

Marty

I will send two hacksaw blades in the post to them!

Alan :-)

Its not the size of the pitot probe, but the skill with which its maneuvered!