cgrcjet

I wish my shop was that convenient. I dont have any of these servos in my shop at the moment and i cannot remember if i had cut the bottom half of those mounts off. Something tells me that i didnt. I will have to try that next time and see how much easier it fits. Two minds are better than one. As far as the scrap shim material, just make sure it is the same thickness as the cover which is 1/32".

The ply was tacked in with CA on the backside of those mounts, so the 2 countersink screws have something to bite into. I tried using bolts with nuts but it is hard to tighten it up when you cant put a wrench on the backside. Especially using the lock nuts. The thing is, is that the whole setup cannot be completely bolted down and needs to be slightly loose for it to fit in right. I used ply but you can use anything you want as long as you can tighten them. Let us know if you have any other good ideas.

thanks
chris

siclick33

Chris,

Could you give me an idea where all the wooden formers should go?

Thanks

cgrcjet

Here are a few pics for reference on the finished verticle stab.


chris

cgrcjet

Hey sic

Sorry for taking awhile to get back with you. I have been out of town on some family business.

Here are some pics of the nosegear area formers. All these formers fit together like tongue and groove and will be tacked with CA into place. Before doing this, do a dry run to see where you need to scuff the inside of the fuse. Tack them in place and when you get your retracts in and working properly ,you can glue them in. I used west sysem mixed with colloidal silica and some 1/8" chopped glass but you can use what you feel is best.

chris

cgrcjet

Here are some pics of the rear wing mounting area formers. You will tack everything together but the rear former. Its hard to see in the pic. but the long skinny formers that cradle the rear wing are sitting on top of the former that is used for the bolting of the rear wing. You will be able to tell when you tack this all together because they are notched for one another. Scuff the area up and put your glue on the inside of the rear lip where this former goes and put it in place. You will take and put some glue on the opposing lip and slide the other part of the structure in through the engine nacelle area and put it in place. Tack it with CA to the rear former after you get it in place. You can then proceed with using the former glue and finish gluing it in. You will also want to throw some of this glue in the void between the fuse and the skinny wing cradles on the inside. This will need to be filleted to fill this void in. There will be a slight modification in, incodence to this area but i will need to get some more photos to show you.

chris

cgrcjet

Here are the fuse/engine area formers. Tack the 2 ends on 90 degrees with main former and slide them up under and behind the lips after putting your glue behind these lips. You can put a small tack of CA from the smaller 2 formers to the outer lips or flange to hold it in place. Put the engine nacelle in place and make sure both long stretch of lips on the left and right side fit flush with it. You can pull the engine nacelle off while holding these longer lips in place, mark them on the former and put some spring clamps along the stretch of these lips to hold the lips against the former. You will probably want to put this section in after the rear wing section.

chris

cgrcjet

There are 3 other fuse formers but i was unable to get pics to show you where these go. I will try and do that tomorrow and post them for you.

thanks
chris

cgrcjet

Few other pics for reference.

cgrcjet

!/4" doublers on inside of engine nacelle former with blind nut for mounting nacelle to fuse. We drilled 4 small holes in the bottom of the fuse, 2 in the back area and 2 in the front area of the nacelle section for these bolts to be accessed. They will go through the fuse former and up into the nacelle former. The same type of holes were used to mount the back part of the wheel nacelle and the rear wing. The rear wing has 2 bolts and a dowel at the leading edge.

chris

cgrcjet

Here is a link to a video of the working flaps. Hopefully it works. I had taken this with my camera phone and was trying to figure out a way to convert it. I wasted my time with the converters and tried to download it on you tube. Sorry fo the quality.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH0GJ...eature=channel


chris

cgrcjet

This former goes on the inside flange at the back of the canopy area. Their are some notches cut out for the avionics vents and needs to be put in accordingly. You will want to put these vents in before putting this former in.

cgrcjet

This former sits inside on the front side of the fuselodge hatch flange. You will need to watch the angle on these because the wing pins slide through the fuse in this are. You can tell where these pins go through by looking at the outside of the fuselodge wing area. You have a pin, 1" wingtube and another pin that need to be drilled out. I believe the pins were 5/16" k&s aluminum tubing. I used the dremel with a small router bit to cut out most of the area where the 1" wingtube slides through. There is a sandwiched piece of wood ply in the wing area with a 1" hole cut into it. When you get most of this are cut out, slowly trim it out just up until you hit the ply. When you are done you should have a 1" hole that the wingtube slides into.

cgrcjet

This former also goes in the fuse hatch area but on the opposite part of the opening. There will be a pin that goes through this area also.

cgrcjet

Here are a few pics of the wing tube and pin area along with where they slide into the wing.

Note: The 1" wingtube socket is glued into the the wing as well as the fuse for the aluminum wing tube to slide through. The socket in the wing will be pulled out flush with the wingskin that butts to fuse , not flush with the root wing former. So in other words, the socket will be sticking out about a 1/16" past the wing former.

cgrcjet

The canopy areas have a marked outline to guide you when cutting for the vacuum form canopy. You will leave an extra 1/16" on the back canopy, so dont cut all the way to the line. You will leave the same amount on the front part of the canopy but just in the area where the 2 canopies meet. When i put these lines in, i went off photos of the real plane and did not allow for the layup thickness. If you want a little extra flange for the clear canopy to be glued to then this would be a good idea. Sorry for jumping around but i thought i should get to this before someone cuts this out wrong.

cgrcjet

These are the flap hinges. There are 4 hinges per flap. Scuff the area to be glued. The skinned area of the flap will need to be marked and notched out where the hing slides in so it can be glued to the ply area of the the flap.You will want to put the hinges on the actual flaps first. You will line up the bottom edge of the glued area of the hinge with the bottom profile of the flap and fully forward. It does not need to be right up against the wing skin. You can have about a 1/32" gap from the bottom and front of the flap skin. Next, you will put the hinges in the flap wells after you line them up where you want the flaps. You can put each pair of hinges together with the bolt and locknut to line everything up better.

The real A10 has big gaps where the flaps meet the wing area. Dont be alarmed when you see the gap when you begin to align them, it was just me trying to make it look more scale. Just space them evenly.

WHMC

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Chris, Getting the idea on flap hinging. Different than we are use to ie not hinged to TE but linked together and held in place on wing TE hard points. Thanks Wayne McCosker

cgrcjet

No problem Wayne. Just let me know if you have anymore questions, these are quite fun to put on. When putting the hinges on the flap wells, i put just enough epoxy on the back side of the hinge to where it does not quite squeeze out the side when pushed into place. When i get everything aligned right , I will tack the hinge in place with CA so it stays. I then scuffed up the outside of the hinge and surrounding are and applied more epoxy to it. I used 5 minute epoxy on these ,so you have about 5 minutes to make any adjustments, but at least you dont have to hold it long. This is the way i did them but you can choose which way works best for you. Make sure you have the hinge glued on the actual flap first before doing the wells. Also make sure the hinges do not rub on one another (besides the hingpoint). You want the hinge to sit on the wood and be inset past the wing skin. If you have to, you can trim a little bit of the ply area out where the hinge sits against the ply ,or like on one that i did, i had to take the drum sander and shave off a little bit of the hinge so it would not rub. I hope this helps and didnt make it sound more confusing.

Here are a few pics of one that Ty from Florida is doing. He is using hoye fans with scorpion motors. The tamjets aluminum wheels go good with the A10. Thanks for the pics Ty.

chris

DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

Got mine in the mail yesterday and she is a beautiful kit. I look forward to getting to it this winter. It actually looks bigger in person...LOL

cgrcjet

Thanks Doc. Just let me know if i need to be of assistance. Hopefully my instructions are clear enough. I'm sure i am getting ahead of you guys , but i will just keep posting whatever i can.

What kind of powerplant will you be setting up in the A10? Surprising, i have had alot of people going for the turbine.

thanks
chris

DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

Well I have two of the smaller Wren 44's, the older ones (about 8 lbs of thrust), air start, but am really thinking this would be ideal for some of the newer EDF units with much more thrust. I am not familiar enough with them to be sure of what I am getting, so I will defintely be asking questions.
For instance would it be better to use the A123 or the lipo batteries? Which will weigh more? Cost comparision? I am looking at some of the Dynamax conversion packages with the Skorpion motors and Castle Creation speed controllers recommended by a friend.

BaldEagel

Doc

A123's are heavier than LiPo's without question, but they are more stable and able to be re-charged at 10 Amps, largest cell available is 2300Mah so you will probably need to put two packs in parallel to get decent duration, which increaces the weight dissadvantage even more, Can't comment on the Skorpion motors as I do not have any, however after going through quite a few Castle Creation speed controllers I will not buy them again, I now only use Hacker or Jeti (Jeti make the Hacker speed controllers) I have pulled on climb out over 100 amps on 10S LiPo's on a supposed 90 amp Jeti controller without complaint.

Hope that helps.
Mike

DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

Thanx Mike,
That is some of the type of info I need. I am assuming by using the lipos on this plane with the weight, I would be using at least a 10S pack on each nacelle, so I could use 4 x 5S packs (to make 2 10 cells). What size packs should I be looking for? and what "C" rating (20C, 25C, 30C)?
Thanks

BaldEagel

Doc

You can use any combination of pack as long as they are the same capacity, in fact I use 4S + 6S in one of my airframes to make up the ten as I can then use them in other airframes as well, as to the capacity that depends on the duration required and the Amps being pulled, if we assume 50amps (each motor) cruise then for a 10min flight we would need about 6000Mah if does not quite work out maths wise as more power will be needed to climb out and some capacity can not be used, go for the highest "C" rating you can to keep the work load on the batteries to a minimum, also higher "C" ratings will actually produce more power due to the lower resistance in the cells.

As an example of power to cell capacity, I have a EDF which uses a 4S 4350Mah and the duration is only about 4mins of flat out mayhem, but the same battery combined with a 6S 4350Mah in my 2.1M Composite Edge will give me over ten minutes of aerobatics, these are 25C FlightPower LiPo's.

Mike

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Doc,
If you are going to run the Dyn-E-Max.... get the 4035-630KV scorpion...
To save weight and money on 10s.. I'd bet you could get by with just the CC85HV
on 12s this setup pulls about 95 amps... so I'd guess on 10s you'd be around 80 amps.... the 110hv wouldn't hurt..just more money and weight

As for the packs.... you need 30c packs at least...don't run 25c packs
The Xtreme Power Systems packs are very good and cheap (30c) the Hyperion G3's 35C are great also.. of course the thunder power 30c are great but cost alot and are no better than the others
the flightmax zippy 30c packs direct from china are also great and dirt cheap...

Also take a look at the Stu Max fan... I'm running one in my Comp ARF Spark and it's the most amazing fan I've ever owned and I've had a few... it's sounds so sweet
very much like a turbine

I'd go with what was said before run 6s 30c+ 5000 mah - 4s 30c+ 5000mah x 2

Link to Dyn-e-Max- http://www.dyn-e-max.com/index.html
Link to Stu Max- http://www.stumaxaircraft.com/pages/SM110.htm?t=739147
XPS Packs- http://www.xtremepowersystems.net/products.php?cat=16
Hyperion G3 35c packs - http://www.allerc.com/index.php?cPath=3_4_93
Hobby City Flight Max Zippy 30c - http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...5&v=&sortlist=
my friend is running 12s of the 30c turnigys from hobby city and says they are working very well also
(he is pulling about 90 amps on a very large 12s heil 90 sized)


hope that helps
Ron