Just because no fuel is dripping out of the pipe dosn't mean it is not rich enough. Just having that means it is running great for a breakin procedure. And once again, it dosnt have to drip.

I broke mine in somewhat lean and it is still getting more powerfull as I use it.

richen the mixture until it stalls, then lean it out an eighth of a turn. that way you know you are running rich enough. As far as it not sucking fuel, does it suck when its running? if so, it may have just had trouble priming the line.

the best way ive found to prime mine is fill the tank hold the lid up and press on the pressure line where it goes in the tank pull the lid back till it dont want to move and let it slam that will try to compress the fuel but the fuel will run up the line to the carb instead it uses the path of least resistance

I found an air leak but i dont know how to fix it. It's leaking aroudn the shaft that comes through the middle of the backplate and into the pull start assembly. Why would this have a leak?

After looking at things a little more it seems like that wasnt where the leak was. I think its leaking around the head. The head is on tight and yes i used an x pattern, the glow plug couldnt get any tighter, is it possible that the head just isnt getting a good seal after being flipped with no body? This looks like a good excuse to get a better head, but if i do that and still have problems ill probably torch it.

3 fixes
[ul][*] rtv around the pullstart housing[*] new backplate the bushing therein is shot[*] a few well placed strips o duct tape as a temporary fix untill u can do the second option but not as permanent as the rtv
[/ul]

When you took the head off, did you make sure that the head gasket was there? The head gasket is very thin metal and you may not have gotten that back in place. without a head gasket, the head will not get a good seal and it will leak. You may be able to get a head gasket at your LHS. If not, you can get one from www.ehobbies.com

I just took it out, and it will run somewhat. If i run it very rich and keep the rpms up it will run, but the head gets hot quick. It seems like its doing what it was doing the first time after i wrecked. Its only running if im giving it some throttle, how much you think a hobby shop would charge to fix it?

replace the backplate to replace the bushing set it at breakin and go from there

just take your head in and see if they have a gasket that will fit it. It sounds like you are fighting an air leak. I had the same problems when I bought my truck (used). I was missing the head gasket and the carb was leaking air around the base. You could seal up the exhaust on your engine and use some low pressure air blowing in the carb with the piston at the bottom of the stroke. Use WD-40 on all the joints in the engine where you suspect a leak and see if you get air bubbles. Then you will know if you have a leak and where its at.

Well you said it your self. "I know where the leak is but I dont know how to fix it." That to me sounds like you dont know that much about it and if I were you, i would stop screwing with it and stop risking any more errors and send it to CEN.
They will know what to do and probably for free.

Tony, if he knows where the leak is, its just a matter figuring out what is causing the leak. Usually its a missing gasket or loose bolts. In this case I am thinking its a missing head gasket. Most people don't even know there is a head gasket on a nitro engine.

he said the backplate is leaking where the start shaft sticks out i think the bushing there is shot and a new backplate will fix her up it wouldnt hurt to try that and a new backplate gasket

Exactly. I understand that he wants to learn off his mistakes but that is what reading is for. Dosnt it make more sence to read on what you are doing instead of just winging it?If you dont want to further damage, I would call CEN. And If you dont what them to fix it, at least ask if there are any other possable problems.

BTW, I have not had time to read this whole forum. Where exactly is the leak?

originally he thought it was a leak in the bushing surrounding the back plate. He has since decided that the leak is from the base of the head and not at the back plate. That is why I suggested doing an air test after sealing all the existing openings in the engine (exhaust, fuel inlet) and pressurising through the air inlet on the carb with low pressure air. By doing that it would force air out any places that leak on the engine. then you can fix all of the leaks with out guessing.

any torque .16 shim will fit as long as it is the same thickness the product description on the CEN hopup head says it will fit the NT-16 and the torque .16 so their bore are one and the same

Well im really broke... and i guess i have to spend for my gf on valentines day, so is there anything i could use in place of the head gasket? RTV? 1:1 gasket material?

ummmm..... you could probably get away with high temp form-a-gasket. make sure its kinda thin on there, and DO NOT tighten the head all the way down until the gasket material is cured. You do need to make sure it is a high temp designed for things like car heads, headers and other engine components. But you may be able to find a head gasket at your LHS that will work and be cheaper than a tube of form-a-gasket. The big thing you have to watch getting a different gasket is how thick it is and how far up it holds the head from the piston sleeve.