Wide Open

dont you just love how easy it is to work on?

spacoli

It was slow at first, not knowing what screws needed to come out and what screw didn't.
Once you do it a few times, it will be a peice of cake.

I realy like how 6 screws come out of the bulk head and the whole front or rear assembly comes off. Makes it easy to work on them separate if need be.

The bulkhead screws that attach the radio tray one was long (which I beleive is the right screw) one was short (wrong). This long screw has to pass through the bulkhead and thread into the radio tray. I know the short one didn't make it all the way through. The side of my radio tray that broke had the short screw in, not sure if that was a factor in it breaking.
The rest of the bulkhead screws are short, they only screw into the bulkhead.
you guy should check your out, I think this is an easy miss in the manufacturing process since all the bulkhead screws are short other than the radio tray screws.

Edit: My mistake, my radio tray did not break where the short screw was, it was on the same side, but it was the back off the tray that broke, not at the bulkhead.

I will be taking more of mine apart, just to get a feel for it since it's already half apart.
I will also be removing the header tank, I read it runs more consistantly with out it.
Anyone have thoughts on this header tank?

Wide Open

i took mine off personally. the main tank is big enough and you are able to burn through the entire tank of gas without it. with the header tank theres always a little bit of fuel left.

Bill Plude

Took mine off a while back too. Just got around to putting all my trucks in "My Garage" in my profile. Was pretty happy, these RC Universe guys have the WarHead listed, all I have to do now is find a body I want to put on it and take some pics.

spacoli

I beleive your correct with the black flakes. Here is a picture with my skidplate off. There looks to be alot right outside the clutch bell. I ordered new clutch shoes as back ups.

Wide Open

im thinking about seeing if i can find a set of aluminum clutch shoes that will fit. but for now ill just stick with stock and wait and see what hop ups come out first on the market.

clegen3

Got to run my warhead today finally... got through 3 tanks of gas, not running it really hard, moderatly. i also got to get some decent air ( about 3-4 feet up). my fun was ended when the plastic gear broke (2 teeth) This is a great truck for ANYONE, and i advise buying it. i flipped it on a jump, and rolled it over about 3-4 times, landed on its wheels and kept going...FUN truck!

spacoli

Damage update.....I guess they were right about the motor mount.

Quote from the review:
"The motor mount itself is cast aluminum, and while I agree cast aluminum is generally the best material for a motor mount, I think there may be too much of it here. Cast aluminum will generally not handle as much stress as machined aluminum, which does provide some measure of protection to the motor in the event of a top-down landing. It's better for the mount to break, than the motor block itself."

If you look at the pictures you can see one side of the casting transition is smooth and the other side that cracked has a offset, this is right next to a round spot like where they poured the casting in.

That tumble I took wasn't that bad!

Do you think this casting defect, since the crack is next to that round spot and has that offset?

I think this will be ok to run like this for a while, because the whole mount is tied together with the side chassis plates, there isn't no where for it to go.

What do you guys think?

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

Man that sucks. I bet it was a defect in the casting, that does not seem normal unless you REALLY slammed the truck down HARD.

Personally. I would run it and see what happens. Whats the worst that might happen, you strip a spur gear? 3$ Fix.

Mines going with me to the track tomorrow. I'm hoping to really see what this thing can do. I'm excited.

spacoli

That's what I thought, I have a back-up spur gear on the way.

While I have it apart, what can I use to clean the clutch shoes and bell good? Is there something I might have around the house. I read some where that Duratrax used some type of lube in the manufacturing process.

I was wondering if that is some of my slippage problem that I posted earlier?

I'm also going to seal up that backplate where I might be getting some oil leaking, not sure if it's leaking there, but it's a good time to do it anyway.

Wide Open

normally i just clean things with a damp paper towel and some q-tips. if you really want to get serious about it, than maybe you could use some goof off on the clutch. i cant wait to get mine back up either cause ive got it in the lowered position and i want to see how it handles.

mojoseeka

Hey guys just wanted to post my update on my warhead. Went to run my first tank been reading the post to be carefull when using the pull start.well with the glow plug out it pulls over fine...with it in the compression was so much that the pull start rope cut through the inside PLASTIC housing in the recoil....so i was able to get one good pull out of it and heard her run for about 5 seconds.So i ordered a new recoil and some parts I heard that have been breaking also....So alittle depressed but hopefully thats alll thats wrong.I dont think i can wait a week for that recoil so im going to the LHS tommmrro and look for a starter box.. "F" that pull start, that should have been made of metal of some sort.....being a BIG block and all.Oh is this a suitable starter box?This LHS is 5 minutes from my house so i was deciding to go there.[link=http://h1072154.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN5610]http://h1072154.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN5610[/link]
and another question i had is the battery that operates a starter box. I have a 12V 57Ah gell cell battery from my wireless telephone cabinets, would this work the same as the hobbico 12V 7 Ah?It looks that it just has more Amp hours.does the starter box have alligator clips to the battery or does it go inside the starter box itself and connect inside?

spv1425

Mojoseeka,
Call duratrax on the recoil, they sent me one free.

spv1425

clegen3

I was wondering if anyone could tell me the possibilities of why the spur gear stripped. I only ran three tanks through it didnt run it really hard, it took one tumble. I'm just wondering what i could look into. the only thing i could see is when i reinstalled the motor after my recoil broke, that i didnt do it right. im open to any suggestions, and a picture of exactly how it should be mounted would be great. i still think its on right, but thanks!

spacoli

Duratrax costomer service is awsome, they replied to an email I sent out this morning (Sunday 8:25am they replied at 1:00pm). Service on a Sunday what more could you ask for.

I sent them detail pictures of the engine mount and described what I thought was a defect in the casting. They said thanks for the detailed pictures, it made it easy and they agree that it was a defect and are sending me another one.

I don't beleive the crash had anything to do with that mount breaking. It probably broke right away during the assembly of tightening the bolts.

I for one say even though we a having some trouble with the Warhead, I think Duratrax will get
feedback and even improve some of their replacement parts and we will end up with one good truck. At least I hope so. Those servo saver parts atleast.

I just don't understand about those servo saver parts breaking. I was looking at my buddies MGT and the Warhead steering assembly looks much beefier.

Any way I must give Duratrax an at-a-boy for the way they are handling my problems. Hope everone else is having an easy time too, it sounds like some are with the pullstart replacement.

Wide Open

clegen, i bet the reason your spur stripped is because you didnt have the gear mesh set properly. it explains this in the manuel and it even includes a picture. to make it easier i just use a flash light to look at the gears from the front to make sure they are set properly.

spacoli

I do have an air leak around the carb, I did the bubble test and that was the only leak. Pull it out, the inner o-ring is there but is a little damaged, I beveive from that pinch bolt or what ever that was that holds the carb in. the upper o-ring seams fine and looks it seats in recessed chamfered area or the motor.

What should I do? leave the damaged o-ring or just remove it since I will be sealing up at the carb base? I guess it doesn't hurt to leave the good o-ring on that is up at the base in the recessed area, that shouldn't affect sealing. Should I just remove both o-ring?

i just need to seal the carb at the base right? No sealant should be inside at all right?

I need to know what is the proper way to do this?

Wide Open

what i would just try doing is replacing the defective o-ring and see if that works. just make sure youre carefull when putting it back together as you can split the o-ring if you go too fast.

jbrad65

I had the same problem. I tried a couple of sealers, but none worked could not get it tight. I thought about it and I just decided what the hell, I just ordered an OS .3ovg engine. It is a brute and very dependable.(so I hear) Plus it has more power and that is always a good thing. If you do not want to change the engine then you should contact Duratrax and tell them to send a new engine or repair that one. [8D]

Wide Open

i said it before and ill say it again, that engine is GREAT once you get about a gallon through it. although i bet that .30 vg is definatly fun.

bluestratos

Well got mine running finally, my glow plug igniter that I got with the truck was not hot enough, so I switch to my rechargable for my planes and voila.. Started it about 5 times before the knot in the pull starter pulled through. :-( Which starter box works the best for this truck? ie... starting power and adjustablity to fit the chasis? Also, has anyone put the adapter on that allows you to use a starter instead of the pull start? How did you orientate to allow access?

Thanks in advance,
Randy

ynot1

I have air bubbles in the fuel line!
Anyone else?

ashburg

Just bought a Duratrax Warhead and broke it in...

First of all, let me just say that this baby is all I expected and then some. Out of the box and 7 tanks later, it's scREAmin' fast. I'm tempted by the Firehammer (pump gas), but I think I'll stick with the WarHead for a while and possibly buy another Warhead for backup.

My big problem right now is flooding. I'll run a tank of nitro, let 'er cool off a while, cut off the fuel by pinching line to cut engine, then fill it up and try to crank - it floods out every time. I've got the high speed needle out 4 1/12 turns and the low speed still at factory setting at 12.5 turns out. Is this way too rich or is it the 2nd tank or?

Also - I've gone through 3 (three!) pull starters on this thing. It's me, I know, not the car...maybe this IS the flooding problem...I'm pulling too hard or something. I'm calling DuraTrax to see if I can't get one of those free pull starters - they need to make this thing out of metal instead of plastic [&o]

I've got a bump box on the way - do you think this will help start this thing? Also, I've got two glow ignitors, one with a meter...neither seem to be hot enough. Could this be the problem? If so, what ignitor should I be using (hotshot?)?

ash

Bill Plude

Do you think some of you might be breaking the pull starter because you have too much fuel in the cylinder (have it flooded, Pulls too hard)? You shouldn't have to put a foot on the truck and pull with 2 hands, LOL. Try loosening up the glow plug just a tiny bit until it starts then tighten it down. You should only have to pull the starter about 6-8 inches.

ashburg

I've been pulling less than 6" and I've grown accustomed to when it's flooded...I have learned when to stop after the 2nd pull starter lol. One of the problems was with the pullcord coming across the chassis...it frays it if you're not careful. So I put some duct tape over where it would scrape and it's good to go now although I am scared to pull on it anymore.

Going to check for fedex delivery man today...maybe my bump box is in and I can put this behind me

Should I have a short plug or a long plug? Maybe that's the problem?

ash