there is no cam shaft. what piece do you mean?
connecting rod? crankshaft?

umm, i would go with an os .18cvrx instead. 2.28 horsepower is ridiculous for a stadium truck. I have the cvr and i snap and strip stuff relatively often as it is.

hey guys, i just won a few things on ebay and ive decided to make another evader, most likely a combo of the st and bx, anything you guys might want to see on there? the motor has been decide for now but im open to suggestions.

Instead of the TZ for flatout speed? The TZ is the on-road racing engine; it'll have higher top end and will be able to reach higher rpm's. Not to mention the 18cv-r has a cliamed power output that's LOWER than the 18TZ. For flatout speed, I say he's on the right path with the TZ.

sure, if it doesn't destroy the car first. However, unless he want to replace parts every 5 minutes due to stripping and stuff then he should get the cvr. The cvr is kind of overkill on a stadium truck as it is. Sure, the cvr will be slower but it will be kinder to your car.

To whoever has an OS 18 CVR engine in their nitro evader: How much power does this engine have over the stock 18? Can you actually notice a difference? I did notice it's about $100 dollars cheaper than the TZ. Also has anyone heard of tntmods.com? I see they machine rc engines for more power and efficiency and I'm wondering if anyone has had an engine modified by them. If they did can you relay your experience?

the difference is HUGE! I have my evader roughly 1/4 inch off the ground and i still wheelie at 1/4 throttle. Not to mention that my car is heavier due to the almost completely aluminum parts that i have on it.

so whats better? the .18 TZ or the CVRX? and whats the price difference

In my opinion the CVR is better due to price. It is also better suited for an ST, I have yet to meet anybody that has put a TZ into a stadium truck. Theh extra 90 saved from getting a CVR over a TZ makes for nice upgrades in the future.

the cv-r has been designed specifically for off road buggies, it has beefier bearings & a thicker crank. it can handle all the bumps & hits you get with off road. the tz is designed for onroad, not as sturdy, but will be more powerfull. i find the OS 15cv-rx has plenty of power for my evader & my next engine will be the OS 12 cv-r. i personally wouldn't spend my money on the TZ, i'd get the OS12 cv-r. all you'll end up doing with the tz is spend time fixing worn & broken parts.

I fully agree with you, dicko. I had more fun with my N-Evader when it had a mild .15 in it than I did with the stock .18. It still was PLENTY fast (top speed was actually higher than .18 with same gearing) but the bottom was softer so it is easier to drive well. The .18 was great to show off sheer power and that's it. It caused me more trouble than its worth. I break more stuff with all that power.

I would personally invest in the .12 CV-RX like dicko has. It would have PLENTY of power, but not so much that it would be near impossible to drive. The .18 CV-RX is aimed more toward the T-Maxx and such market, and in my opinion, is way overkill in a nitro ST.

I thought you were one of the "little people" now?

by the way, the OS .18 absolutely screams.. tons of torque.. I do wonder if a .12 or .15 would be better though, I think that's my next project is one of those engines in a evader.. just to see the difference..

I'm ordering the 18MT tomorrow, but I still like to chime in with what I know, lol.

that's alright I guess

I took on a mistress last weekend, here's a pic.. I'm actually having fun with it, but still like my evader more, even though I forgot to play with it this week after work

(had to do the Peterbilt thing, after all I work in trucking)

here's a sketchy pic of my new xxx-nt body on the evader. i took it with my phone, sodon't complain.

it needed to have a bit cut out around the head & i cut the back window and a 45mm hole in the front windscreen for cooling. it needs a hloe cut out where the manifold header rubs on the body, but it doesn't bother me, so it can wait.

Is the Losi xxx-nt body the only one that will fit the evader? I want to get another body other than the one that comes with it but I'm not sure what bodies will fit. Any suggetions?

It depends on if you want to keep the stadium truck look or if you want to go in a different direction. If you look back a few pages you will see everything from an RX-8, to a sprint car, to a Hummer, or other Losi style bodies. It's just up to your personal preference.

I think a stadium truck looks great with practically any kind of body on it. I went with a XXX-NT body and painted it just a plain Pactra Metallic Blue. Most ST body's have so many curves and bulges, that they look great with simple paint jobs.

XXX-NT body's will fit the stock mounts, but may need a little tweaking in other areas. I had to cut out a part of the rear deck on the side for the head to poke through slightly, but I had a different engine than stock. The header rubs the body a little closer than it should, so it rubs the paint off. Other than that, it's no big deal. It's the same kind of thing you would do with any body. It's just lexan, not like you have to hack through some steel or something.

Other style body's will require the use of your imagination and that you utilize other body-mounts.

I thought I would show off my handy work. I finally mounted the RC10GT fuel tank on my Evader. I am looking forward to no fuel spray mess. I also put on my front aluminum shock tower. The only thing I have to go yet is the Blue Aluminum motor heat sink, maybe next weekend. My next project is going to be an Atomik body. I am thinking of going with a chrome paint on the entire underside, masking off the windows of course. I figured maybe it will reflect some of the heat from the Texas summer. I have been having a kick street racing lately (note the low profile V-Grooves and the chrome talons.

I don't know if anyone is real particular with their tools, but my order from Snap-On Tools just arrived and they sell a killer T-handle allen wrench. I bought some cheapo ones a while back and have snapped almost every one. This link will take you to them.
[link=http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=11559&store=snapon-store]Snap-On Tools[/link]

Here are a few pics...

I just bought some rpm clawz for the losi xxx-nt because they are supposed to fit the evader. I have no problems with the rear rims but when I installed the front rims and tightened down the wheel nut my tire wouldn't budge at all. I thought the rim might be rubbing on the steering arm but it wasn't touching it. I took off the front and put the old duratrax wheels back on, tightened them all the way and they would spin fine. Why won't the *&&% losi rims spin when I tighten down the nut? Any suggestions from anyone?

Are you sure you had the axel washer between the nut and the bearing on the front wheels? I forgot this once and I had a similar situation that you described. Darth

I tried it with and without the washer with the same results.

make sure you use that inner spacer that goes between the bearings, this will put them just a hair thicker than the hub, so when you tighten them down they will spin. Without the inner spacer, it won't work.

i broke the stock throttle arm on the carb, it was slowly cracking and today, it finally went. i ordered one from tower for $1.. but have to wait about a week now.
do you think another carb arm might fit? are these that specific? just looks like a piece of plastic tightened down between the cover and the nut.. i don't have another to compare to on hand.

I don't imagine it would be difficult to find a temporary replacement, you could probably make one...