Joebaby35

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Rentacop

Could you post the phone # you called for GMP Racing and got a quote for the aluminum gear boxes at $20 each?
I am going crazing looking for a contact # to GMP but I only get a rear car racing site from Australia, I would greatly appreciate it.

I broke out my old Modified RS4 MT this weekend for 2 tanks and I forgot how solid the new chassis and Carbon Fiber top plate make it. It has a Picco .12 engine with a 2 speed which I used to think was fast, but my single speed MT2 18ss with the O.S. 18 CV-r blows it away. I think I am going to transfer the suspension drive tran and engine from my 18ss to this truck. It is so solid there is no flex at all in the chassis it hooks up nice on the pavement.
Here are some of the pics it's a little dirty from sitting on the self for the last year and a half....

nitro_nut

Hey guys,
I know this might sound stupid but I just got my OS. 18 crvx in today. I need to know if the original HPI 18ss stock flywheel and the clutch and clutch bell will work? I looked it over and I cant figure this out and wanted to break it in tonight. ANY HELP would be awesome. I have the long shaft motor part number 11880 or the tower item number [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000678726&I=LXGGP7&P=K]OSMG2104[/link] Like I said I have the stock clutch and clutch bell along with the stock flywheel. Do I have to buy a new flywheel and clutch and clutch bell? PLEASE HELP
Thanks

mrnubs

nitro nut,

You have to remove the nut and the spacer(with swirls stamped into it) behind it from the o.s. engine. After that you just install the stock hpi engine pieces onto the o.s. shaft in the reverse order that you removed them from the HPI 18SS engine. Nothing extra is required.

the_owl

hey guys, I finally got my truck together. I have a few issues though:
.1 The top allen screw for the New Era front hubs and knuckles doesnt clear the New Era Aluminum turnbuckles and rod ends kit. It wont allow any movement of the rod end. Has anyone else run into this?
.2 The rear New Era turnbuckles are binding on the shock during cycle. So I mounted the turnbuckles on the back. Is this a problem?
.3 During break-in, I have noticed the front wheels are receiving WAY more power than the rears. At half throttle the front is going great and the rear is barely turning ( I have the 2-Speed kit on this) What could be causing this? The truck is the MT2 18SS.
.4 I have the stock shock setup on the truck, and a lot of extra weight. The rear sags when its at static height. I would like to put stiffer springs in. What springs would be best? I dont race, just bash And Id like to be able to fly it when I learn how to drive it better.
I would to use some springs from my LHS, is there a cross for the more popular applications? I dont have a dealer for HPI in the entire state!!!!
thanks for any and all help so far!
Here is a link to the pics I have so far: [link=http://owlie.omg***pwnage.com/mt2]MT2 18SS[/link]
Here are some pics of my rear turnbuckles and my front hub setup for reference

nitro_nut

mrnubs
Thanks I got it together after stairing at it for about 30 more miniutes and found all of my other parts from my old clutch. Anyway I got her all together and now have to wait till tomorrow to break it in. I got a set of Proline speed hawgs and some HPI SS monster wheels to mount them on. I cant wait till after work tomorrow. Here are a few pictures of it now.

46u

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[8D]

Joebaby35

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I finally got to run two of my MT2 trucks last night to see which is faster. The MT2 18ss with an O.S. .18CV-r and my latest Ebay find MT2 with a big block RB racing economy .21.
Guess which is faster???
(go to the bottom to find out)

mrnubs

Nice looking truck. You need to slam that body as low as it can go and then go further down by cutting away some of the body. I promise you it will look really good with the onroad tires then. I have my body sitting on the shock towers and I wish I could go lower. Also get rid on the stock exhaust ASAP it will hold back the full performance of the engine. I wish HPI would include a better pipe with their kits.


the_owl

Your truck looks really good as well “NICE JOB�. But you too should get rid of the stock exhaust. I personally would have splurged for a good pipe before I would put any aluminum on my cars or trucks. It all about the performance in my book.

Just my opinion guys.
Hope I didn't offend anyone.

Well the O.S. 18 won the speed race but the big block has WAY MORE bottom end grunt and is just a little slower then the O.S. .18 when full out. The O.S. needs a better clutch to handle the power, it has an HPI racing clutch which works great but it will not hit hard at all when launching. The big block has GS racing sliding clutch which hooks up immediately when engaged and man does it move out. The big block definitely feels a lot faster but the O.S. takes the top speed honors.

Well now I have to replace the spur gear in the RB big block truck because there is no more teeth left on it from yesterdays beat down.

McFlyss

The OWl-

Sweet ride mate, Looks like mine used to and I also had the air filter which if I was you would loose and get one like this-- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCCE1&P=RF and you will notice even more power coming from your ride.

There are many reasons why every one states that Alloy is no good.... in time you will realise this like i did and I am now slowly putting all the stock back on it. Admitadly the Alloy looks 100% better, but for durabilty plastic is all the rage!!!

How did you find the turnbuckles?? With me they kept on wiggling loose!!!! Hmph!!! and the screws they provide are proper weak as I think I bent them ALL!!! not good!


Joebaby,
why would The owl want to slam his ride lower?? Surly not if he is bashing off road??

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

ejmovies

Sorry for the confusion I didn't say to slam the car I said to slam the body to the chassis. This will lower the center of gravity and make it look good, all while keeping the ride height the same. I hate to see the chassis when the body is on, it doesn't look right to me, just a pet peeve of mine.

McFlyss

OOOOOOOOOO i GET YA!! :-)

Yes I agree with you also.

46u

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[8D]

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

46U

WOH THERE!!!!!
Don't get you panties in a bunch I made a mistake. Your post had a "Quote Reply" to the_owl and I thought it was pictures of your truck.

My post should have been for the_owl.

Sorry for the mishap, didn't mean for you to blow a gasket.

McFlyss

Guys, not sure how well i can describe but im going to try.
With the removable radio tray.... it should just have 3 clips which you remove to get it out yes? Well i got mine second hand and the guy b4 me had removed the posts and just added screws (Annoying!!)

Anyway, i currently have a new tray en route from towers and was wondering if you can buy the posts which you put the clips in..
I have had a look at the part list but I can not work out if they come seperate or if they actually come with the tray...

Hope all the above makes sense!!!

46u

My Feedback: (3)

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Is yours a MT1 or a MT2? What is the Tower part number? My MT1 Racer only has two pins with clips. Not sure about the MT2. [8D]

McFlyss

Mine is the MT2, I think it has 3 clips but I could well be wrong as mine does not have them..... :-(
I am unsure of the part numbers but this is the replacment tray-- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBSZ6&P=Z and if i can i also want to buy the posts so i can use the clips instead of the screws...

Any ideas anyone?

46u

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Do you have a manual? If not you can down load it form HPI web site. [&:]

46u

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From what I can see they come separate. [sm=bananahead.gif]

McFlyss

I have but i can not work out which bits it would be and as they are not actually on my truck, i cant even work out what they would look like as with all the plastic stock parts, they come all linked together so i cant work out which bits are actual parts and which bits are just plastic holding them together (if that makes sense).
So thought it would be easier if one of you guys new the bits i meant.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I just went to HPI web site and from what I can see the pins are made on to what on mine is called the upper deck. So just guessing there are suppose to be pins where the holes are drilled for the screws. [8D]

mrnubs

Alright,

Here are a few pics of OFNA part # 30280 (125cc fuel tank) installed in my MT218SS. It fits like a glove. I just used a acouple of shock O-rings between the tank itself and the base that it's screwed into. It's cheaper than, and fits as well as, the hpi primerless 100cc tank.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

So the width and length is the same as the HPI 100cc tanks? I have a HPI 100cc tank in my MT1 Racer HPI said would not fit. I had to make some modifications.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Tell me in the picture it looks like the fuel and pressure line are back wards on the tank or is it different on this tank. [sm=confused.gif]

mrnubs

naw you're right, i have to do a switcheroo there.

the dimensions are similar to the 100cc hpi tank, but it's just more bulky everywhere. You'd have to try and see if you could get it in your MT1 racer.

Nitropowered92

the owl: Your fuel lines are also mixed up. The top one goes to the pie and the bottem one goes to the engine