[X(]

If it was smoking before you adjusted the carb, then you likely set it too rich, and was likely too rich before the adjustment. Stalls go both ways, too much fuel, or too little. Especially check if there is excessive unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust when idling. If so, it is too rich at idle. Then check with the truck off the ground and increase the throttle. If there is excessive unburned fuel, this is too rich on the high speed needle.

Well as you may or may not know, I am in Japan - the meka of RC...(?[perhaps]) and I am probably, well maybe...sort of kind of nearly...urm, all most married in a kind of floating perception kind of way...? Yeah, its confusing for me too! But my G/friend really gets narky about it. I am also in to mountain bike riding in a major way and I have the giant riegn 1 perked up to the eye balls with extreme "what have you's", guess the RC is just a miniture version of that feeling. But I have only been able to run and bearly break in the new MT2 18ss with some perced out car park runs. I think I have used it a few times less than I would really love to yet its damage control if I go near it....? winge, complain...yada yada yada hey. But keep up the coments as this is great to vent on here and talk about interests as such.

It says here above the copy bar (text bar), "Please resist the urge to curse, flame, degrade, insult or embarrass someone in your post." Hey, how about someone outside the post/thread, namely the evil begotton ones we unrightly name Girl friends. Wow, who ever coined that term needs a cod piece re-inserted verticaly to give the same feelings of marriage.

ANYWAY...urm, RC...yeah thats right!

Has anyone found the same problem with the main bearing on the main beveled gear drive in the diff on the hardened gears for the 18ss or hop-up for the MT2...? I am just really pissed that I would have to go through the whole process of removing everything that I have finally got into place without having a good tear around only to have to replace it for the 3rd time.

And redfox, you were thinking of getting a 2speed for the Mt2...? can you get these without totally stripping the gears on the gear drives that were designed for road cars...? I am not too sure but I would think that the Savage 3 speed is the optimum choice due to its build. Its actually encased and supported by pinions all around giving it an almost bump/jump/bomb proof use for the rough stuff I have intentions of running mine through. But perhaps there is one out there that is good...? I would prefere 3 gears though, that 1st gear would just really wind out. Yep...writting a book here!

Anyone with an OS 18 CVR? What clutch and flywheel are you guys using? thanks!

To MT 2 in Ca.,

BTW you have installed a new pipe which asctually goes on the opposite side is that right? I think you are probably aware of this though, but because the engine is further away from the left side than it is the right side you would need a longer header to compinaste for the loger distance that pipe needs to travel before it reaches the engine this really and actually does drastically effect the over all performance of your cars power. This is why most cars have a very short header and the pipe is always in most instances right up flush with the header flange that meets the exhaust pipe tip. It can effect your top end speed, torque and power...put that puppy on a dyno and compare the readouts from before and after, I would effort a gues that they are different. Just thought you should know though before you spend alot of money on a new pipe/header set. Just ge the pipe and mount it at the rear which resolves the problem of over heating your tires with fuel/heat waist crap that effects the on/off road handling of your tires. and you can also not worry about hitting or snagging any rocks as well as having a shorter header to increase your performance. You can also billet out your header ever so much so as to incease the exhaust output and change your shim stack under the heat sink which will boost the performance again that much more...have fun amigo.

im using stock off my .18ss except for the clutchbell is hardened kyosho clutch bell

same here stock .18ss clutch and flywheel runs great

I may go with the 18ss then--I guess I can just swap the clutch, flywheel from my T-15 over the 18SS

im just of a website there and they ave got in a special wheelie bar for the bt2 wat wod u need to do to the mt2 to get it to wheelie

I have the RTR version and also bought a .18 cv-rx and will i be able to use the stock flywheel that came with the RTR with the .18? Also which CVDs are better? The HPI universal dogbones or the MIP CVDS that also seem to be from HPI?

simienastro - I think you could see the pipe in my GALLERY. That was what I was trying to explain. But, THANKS for the INFO!

JNeff28 - I switched my clutchbell and flywheel from T-15 to .18 CV-R

Cool--I wasnt sure if the stock flywheel would fit the OS--I was told that it would NOT--so I figured I would check this out--nice to know I can just switch everything over

Maybe if you took out the entire front drivetrain (diff, diff bearings, dogbones, diff output shafts) removed the bumper and cut pieces out of the front of the chassis (for front end weight reduction). Also, jack the suspension in the rear up a little, which is kind of impossible without modding the outer ends of the suspension arms by cutting them so the axles dont rub. And of course put a strong motor in, and it might be able to then. One last drastic step would be relocating the rear diff and part of the shock tower below the chassis. This would allow the physics to kick in a little better by putting more of the chassis height higher which would cause it to want to wheelie. For instance, my savage and emaxx both have their diffs at the lowest point of the chassis, basically underneath. All the other major weight is not only above the drivetrain, but high in the air also. Doing that along with the front end also, while leaving the front drivetrain intact, would possibly get those results. However, then it is a small monster truck and doesnt have the handling of a stadium truck. Either way, it might work, it might not.

is the mt 2 considered a stadium truck? just thought of that.

Yup that it is...well according to HPI anyway...my definition is that its a shy away from trucks and more like a an offraod race pickup...? but I really am not into the liguistical, semiological clasifications of such info whereby we clash it into a catagory. I just have fun with it.

BTW if you place a small lead bar or piece of steel wrapped up in foam/material (whatever) and place it in the back, you would be able to get it the desired wheelie...but then again it was never really designed for that as the other posters have suggested. But the Rush is, being a single rear wheal drive...instead of spending wallets of cash on mega changes, just buy a new truck that will wheelie...Rush at it.

hey does any1 no any gd exhaust for my mt2 i just had me car out i i kinda snapped the tip of the stock 1 and it sounds like a trator with out i would like to get one from a uk website at the minute i have me eye on a rear exhast but have not yet found a uk website to buy it on

tsais badboy. this pipe is loud, and pretty good too. http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant....ry_Code=badboy

yeh thankz u told me you got that but does it not blow the smoke all over ur tires and suspension it looks sweet

yes i just found a uk website with that exhast at £33 how do u fit it? i no u slide it inside the purple thing but wat bout the other end the stock 1 is held on by a screw wat bout this 1?

anyone using the GPM steering assembly . I'm confused , if I put the steering brace on top of the arms it rubs on the alloy diff housing , if I go underneath the screws rub on the chassis [>:] anyone help me [] . It's my last bit , new motor is in and wants to be run in

might try flipping the whole unit,i just installed my aluminum nuckles, now hope that solves the screw problem no more falling out,alloy front uprights,alloy front nuckles what next for alloy parts hmmmmmmmmmm.

IN regards to the stearing brace, there are some shimswhich come with it to help use as a form of bushing as well as the plastic one to help with the spacing. If you place the stearing assembly on the bottom as it should be with the appropriate shims - and also the silver post assmeply it attaches to can be placed in two ways aswell which also effects the possition of the stearing rack. If then after the playing around it still rubs on the diff housing as mine did, you can take out the diff housing and as the rack only rubs on a about 2thirds of a mm, you can get a smll file and slowly file away the excess. It effects nothing BTW so dont be afraid. Just aslong as you dont file it off. Ill post a picture after in my profile and you can see there...just not in much details such. have fun, hope it helped?

Haven't posted in a long time - so I thought that I would catch you up on my ride.

The MT2 is doing great - I TQ'd with it in Unlimited Monster truck two weeks ago and am going to race it tomorrow night. I love racing this truck. I get more people wanting to know what is my truck and how can a little truck do the same as the 1/8 Jammin's and the like. I get a real sense of pride in that this little truck can be as fast as the unlimited - just kicks ***. If you have never raced your truck - you should really try it. It is an adrenline rush that can't be matched.

I think I have fixed the last non lasting part - the spur gear. I would have the mesh be perfect, but it would always seem to strip the next race or at least need replacing. HPI has brought the hardend gears for the savage and they don't tell you , but they are a direct replacement on the MT2. Here are the parts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXLSU6

and

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXLST6

Here are some pics:

Narly I had the same problem with my gpm steering assembly after alot of trial and error the only way I got it to fit was to flip it upside down and use some metal spacers I had kicking around to prevent it from rubbing it sucks I was pretty pissed that it doesn't fit on its own I tried plastic spacers but they caused a clicking when you moved the steering . Gonna have to Mac Gyver it .