Your English is a lot better then a lot of the people on this form that use it all the time. Being I only bash I run the glow plug they recommend. I use to have a link about glow plugs but cannot find it right now and if I do I will post it. I do know they recommend using a different one when you go to higher content nitro over 20% but I forget which way you go hotter or cooler but it is on this form somewhere.

On the engine make sure the head bolts are tight, then check where the carburetor goes in the block and the backing plate. A lot of people seal where the carburetor goes to the black and backing plate with oxygen sensor safe high temperature RTV. That is what I use and do to mint.

[quote]ORIGINAL: 46u





On the engine make sure the head bolts are tight, then check where the carburetor goes in the block and the backing plate. A lot of people seal where the carburetor goes to the block and backing plate with oxygen sensor safe high temperature RTV. That is what I use and do to mine.

Here are some links
[link]http://www.*********.org/engine-tuning.htm[/link]

[link]http://www.savage-central.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=54465[/link]

guess what guys?im getting a new truck. monster truck actually, and since it's 12:25 am friday morning, i get it today!! a brand new Team Associated Monster GT 4.60 SE!! cant wait to break it in, now my mt 2 has a buddy.

thats because you have to tune it. its use to your previous fuel. I run the traxxas top fuel 20% and with one pull of the cord it starts up quick.

well, iv been having loads of problems with my mt 2 the last few months, iv had enough! going to sell my RC stuff and get a gas guzzling FG ST, by the sound of it they are very reliable and tanks last for 45 mins!

You've probably already seen this, but here's a little explanation of glow plugs. http://www.osengines.com/accys/glowplugs.html
http://www.osengines.com/accys/choosing-glowplugs.html Personally I used the #8 for my t-15 when I had it in there, and now with the s-25 I use the A5. All I do is bash and do high speed runs, no racing because I don't want to have to drive an hour or more to get to a track and practice. There used to be a couple tracks here, but I guess the r/c world is'nt popular enough here as they were shut down well before I ever knew of them.

hey and_des thanks for the links. I'm going to try to do to see if there is any air leaks this weekend

Not sure what sort of problems you are having but any thing that is run as hard as these little vehicles are is going to break or have problems. I like the big scale stuff and gas is nice but I do not have the money for what they cost as well as I do not have the room to run something that big. I looked at them before and for what big scale cost I can buy something use I can ride on or in. But if that is what you want go for it and I wish you good luck.

I'm going to read it, Thanks
I went to the LHS to buy some glow plugs OS #8 medium hot, A5 medium cool and I wanted some R5 cold but the don't sell those one.
OK here some of my findings,(with a decent needles setting) Install a brand new #8 not even a full pull on the pull start and the engine was running, did a couple of runs checked for the blue smoke, sound and temperature, even playing with the LSN and HSN the temp was on the high side (260-290F and more) at one point the LSN was so rich that the engine was bogging from a dead stop to full speed ( i did the pinch test to prove to myself that it was in fact to rich) had to lean the LSN to have a decent pull from a dead stop but the temperature was going on the high side again, now it was time to replace the plug by the A5 with the same needles settings i had went testing the #8 plug, engine was a bit harder to start i've needed two full pull to get it running, i did a couples of runs again and checked the smoke, sound and temp when i pull the car near to check the temp the idle was a bit erratic but still it was not loading the engine and the temp was way down (210F) so i began to lean the LSN until i had a decent pull from dead stop, after i did the pinch test again and everything was perfect, temp now are around 230-270F that is good to me. And BTW i had to adjust the idle screw often to keep a decent idling during all that testing. With the A5 the engine is a bit harder to start and idle sound and feel abit different ,but i think i finally know the ins and outs of that engine.
After that I went back to the LHS to ask Roberto (this guy races alot and he knows his stuff) if he could try my truck, the only thing he did was lean the LSH by a touch to is liking and that was it.

BTW Jackedman now the truck is pulling way harder on the second hole of the shoes.

My new clutch shoes and slipper gear just arrived and I need some help.

1. I mounted the new slipper gear and when I put it in the housing there is a lot of play to the left and right, should it be like that? I havent bolted anything down yet and the engine is currently dismounted but before I put it all back together I just want to make sure I did it right the first time.

2. How in the hell do you get that little spring around the HPI racing clutch? Is there a trick to it that I missing? The instructions say roll it with your thumbs but is it already connected when you roll or do you connect it when you get it all the way around? Ive tried it both ways but my fingers are having a tough time of it.

Thanks in advance.

There a bit of lateral play on mine i think its normal, make sure you mount it as per the manual and you should be ok, about the spring shoes i use a small flat head screwdriver to pry it in the grove(pry it from the thick side of the shoe), be careful not to break or damage the shoes.

if it is a plastic spur, make sure you put the little brass bushing inside it. you may have to take it out of your old spur gear, because they dont come with a new spur gear. if you did that there should be very little play. for the spring, I use a couple small jewlers screwdrivers and carefully pry it around the clutch with the spring already connected at the ends.

Very good information here and has about glow plugs as well. Watch out as the wrong plug can cost you a motor.

http://www.*********.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm

[sm=drowning.gif]can any 1 tel me the measurements for any of these car stands on the link below i only need the measurements of the tops part wer u set car on its 4 a project.
width-
bredth-
[link]http://www.jespares.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_181&category=Car%20Stands[/link]

i ment length
bredth lmao

I'm BACCCCCKKKK!!!!!!!
OK here's my new prob, I can't get my car to stand still. I get it started and it runs ok, but the tires spin even on the ground it will run at a fast walking pace. I tried my throttle trim on radio all the way back and it still doesn't help. ALso I'm a little confused how to set the idle on the os .18. What are you adjusting when you turn the idle stop screw and how tight should it be. I thought the more you screwed it in it would open carb and give you higher idle, but on the os engine it seems to be a set screw to limit idle. I checked my clutch shoes and springs and they all seem perfect. Not sure what my prob could be. My carb looks about 1mm open when car is still and servos and radio are in neutral position, but tires always spin. one other question also what exactly does the slipper clutch do? I have it adjusted per manual (I tightened all the ay then backed off about 1/2 maybe a little more I wanted to be on safe side) but now as I type this I'm thinking that the slipper xlutxh might put more tension on spuir gear so there's more resistance on clutch bell which if were tighter it might stop the clutch bell from spinning so fast and stop my clutch from engaging and make my wheels stop spinning. But since I'm not sure I guess I'll wait for a response in here before I tighten it down. I got a few hours to wait until all my AA's are charged.

wow I can actually help someone. The top plate on the duratrax stand (top one on link you posted, blue one) is 6 7/8 by 5 13/16. hope it helps.

I think these are billeted alluminium http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...=&part_id=2129. It dosn't say so but i'm sure all New Era Stuff is billited. I have some and they seem very solid compaired with other ally parts.

Where you sit the car or truck is
Ofna 6x63/4
Dura Trax 5 ¾ x 6 5/8

Thanks but there stuff is cast not billet. Cast is not anywhere near as strong as billet. Cast is cheap stuff. But I do appreciate you trying to help. I do not think any one makes billet parts for the MT like they do for the Savage.

Did a bit of research on glow plugs before trying different ones, changing glow plugs is another way you can use to tune your engine, one thing you have to watch for is detonation (advancing the timing) with a hotter plug, I don't think a cooler plug will damage the engine.
Here are the big lines from the OS site
Guideline : Know what type of engine you have. Is it a standard - or a turbo
Guideline : The smaller the engine, the hotter the plug.
Guideline : The higher the nitro content, the colder the plug.
Guideline : The hotter the day, the colder the plug.

LoL, at least you got it moving now. I had this problem for ages with a different car.
The throttle stop screw stops the carb closing all the way. You need to adjust it so the carb is closed a tiny bit more at idle. This will bring down the revs but you may need to adjust your throttle/brake linkage to accomodate the new setting.

I'm glad you have it running, when i adjust the idle screw i put the truck om my stand with the engine running and play with the screw until the tire stop turning. Make sure that the linkage is not holding the carb from closing, the best way to find that is by removing the air filter and check down in the carb, make sure you put the air filter back on before you drive it.