Everything on mine is currently either purple, silver or black...it is hard to get everything the same color. But at the end of the day, I'm after performance - so I'd rather have a range of colors in order to get the right parts!

--RCNZ

ya performance but the guys at my local track have like chromed out everything or everything blue and what not


i will ask around if the HPI nitro star purple head fits the O.S. 18-cv-r

Question time: Okay, so the brakes on my MT2 aren't that great right now. When I first had the car up and running after breaking it in, when I went to brake the car stalled because the carb shut. I adjusted the little screw on the carb to stop this, but my braking isn't very good. How do I increase the effectiveness of the breaks?

there is a linkage that runs from the servo the the brake arm. On that rod there is a thumb adjuster knob. You can turn this knob clockwise and it will start to pull the brake lever. Just adjust this until it lightly drags the brake then turn the knob back a bit.

I mounted up the tires onto the rims for the truck i'm putting together. I decided to try the tape idea to keep them from ballooning. I'm thinking about throwing them on my truck and seeing if the CV-R can stretch em out or not.

turned em inside out and wrapped them in duct tape



turn it right side in and the fit was perfect!



all mounted up

find the break linkage and and there should be a plastic screw on the end of it and all you have to do is screw it in farther, but dont screw it in too far because if the brake drags while the carb is open you will melt the clutch....this should all be in your user manual

I didn't have a user-manual with my MT2. I had a few feeble looking leaflets and a 'getting started' leaflet, but no user manual to speak of (I had a DVD, but that only explains how to get the car up and running).

User Manuals available from HPI website:

MT2 RTR: http://www.hpiracing.com/kitvideos/10820.html
MT2 18SS: http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/10441/10441.pdf

--RCNZ

Great! Thanks a lot. Looking at it now. These things show every part in great details. They must take ages to compile.

i thought the tires "ballooning was a good thing? this is when the tires seem to become slim at a decent speed?

I agree with the others if you ring gear is bad the pinion is all so. I believe you said you where getting a LRP engine for Christmas? If you do not do everything correctly I assure you it will show you all the weak spots with that engine! All so keep in mind you still have the pot metal gears in the front. Sorry you are correct this hobby is a money pit big time.
Good Luck

ballooning is when your truck is doing wheelies and this sometimes makes a holeshot start difficult without a wheely bar

No what they are talking about is the tires balloon just like blowing air in to a balloon. When the tries get turning real fast they balloon from centrifugal force.

Yes I agree. Interesting today - just pulled all the diffs apart for a regular check up and noticed that the hardened 13T pinion in the rear has two teeth blown off. The rest of the gear surfaces on it are fine, they are not worn - and the final gear is perfect. Thats really weird - I hadn't really noticed any weird sounds or anything...have you ever experienced this 46u?

Just going to put in a new one...I don't believe it is the shimming..as the final gear would be worn. Perhaps when the set screw came loose, the pinion became toast?

oh ok i get it

2 teeth blown huh? never seen that b4

i also have discovered that my right front rim is cracked..i guess i hit that speed bump a lil to fast

bump and rim so far trashed :/ CRAPPPPPPP KNUCLE IS NOW ADDED

good thing they throw a few extra in teh box ^^

A few pages back I was talking about this problems I have had ever since putting in my OS TZ. In MANY gallons with my OS 15 CV-RX never had a problem but since putting in my TZ I cannot keep the diffs together. I just total replaced my rear differential everything brand new but the out put cups and got a couple of tanks before messing it up again. The only thing it messed up was the pinion gear like you are talking about but took off about 4 teeth. Joebaby35 was saying the only way he can keep his from stripping is to run the alloy diff housing as the plastic ones just flex too much. I am going to try this after the holidays.

If you are having troubles with the screws pulling out of the knuckles the only thing that is going to fix that is some alloy knuckles been there done that.

the screws were a lil frustrating but i got em.. alooy knuckles huh? gib a link to them lol

zzzz when u crash these things theres no such thing as 1 item breaking..always 2-3..in my case ne ways

lmao i remember when i tried to backflip this thing and it landed sideways
it wasnt pretty.. and made me upgrade to aluminum tb's

look on ebay for them, if you buy them anywhere else your probably paying too much... i got a set off ebay for $10 and they work great just dont use an electric drill to put the screws in cause it will sometimes break the screws

Yes, would be interested to hear where you can purchase an alloy diff housing from. As regards replacement, this should do the trick?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTB55&P=7

Just wanted to check, as it is a different colour from the one included with the hardened final gear. I am assuming this is a direct replacement?

HAPPY 400TH PAGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

next thing im getting is gonna be a fuel filter and pre air filter
possibly stiffer springs too

That gear will work but the drive cup will not as it is to small and that gear does not have the hole through it for the setscrew with the long pin. The only place I know of getting the alloy diff housings is ebay and sorry to say the only one I know that makes them is GPM. Two things I do not like about GPM is their parts are made from cast not billet and I have had problems with their stuff. This was a few years ago and hopefully things have improved. I guess I am going to have to bit the bullet and try them anyhow as the only other alterative is sell it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...1996&rd=1&rd=1

What I'll do is drill a hole through it and then I should be able to fit the correct drive cup and set screw on it. We'll see how that goes - if no success, I guess I'm gonna have to buy another diff set.