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Old 12-29-2006 | 07:01 PM
  #11151  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread


ORIGINAL: djheptic

clean it all up. and use some after-run oil. put a couple of drops down the glow plug hole. and some down the air-intake (carb). and then put it in your os.cvrx box

ORIGINAL: murawskiallen

can some one tell me how to prepare my 18ss engine for long term storage??? my 18 cvrx is on its way
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:02 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

i always threadlock my manifold screws, i threadlock pretty much every screw that goes into steel
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:03 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

thanks dj
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:07 PM
  #11154  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

yes but is thread lock unthreadlockable?

what if i need to change a manifold gasket? will the threqad lock give me a hard time?
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:13 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: murawskiallen

you probably saw the hellfire ss, they make a kit hellfire that doesnt come with a radio or an engine so you can pick your own stuff....and the rtr hellfire comes with the k4.6 awesome engine, so yeah it pretty much owns everything
The RTR Hellfire comes with a K4.6 HO 3 port and the Savage SS comes with the K4.6 8 port. Out of the box the K4.6 is better in my opinion.
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:18 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: nitro-is-deadly

i need 46u where r U!!

k so you know ive been saying i loose to some ofna buggys right

and i said i had stock gearing

wat gearing do u suggest for nice torque or low end..but at the same time still has decent high end?
You are going to have a hard time beating a buggy but if you have the OS 18 CV-R and still running the stock gear I recommend gearing it up some. Being I do not know what sort of track you drive on I would start with 14 CB and a 49 spur or some where around there. What are others running on there CV-R? There are many variables in gearing.
Good Luck
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:24 PM
  #11157  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: djheptic

lol that is crazy. pull starts are very strong. it depends how far you pull the string out. you only need short sharp pulls. also another reason for why they break is due to the compression in a new engine. thats when most pull-starts break. but hey all you have to do is loosen the glow-plug off by half a turn. but dont to forget to tighten it back up

i did really like the roto-start. but then it just started to annoy me when the batteries ran out real quick.

ORIGINAL: stadium truck freak

i spent around 150 quid in pull starts because the strings and springs in them kept snaping so i brought a really power full starter box




I have to agree it is all how you use the pull starter as I have a couple of engines with well over 7 gallons and still have the same pull starter and never had a problem with them. Yes pulling the cord out to far of trying to start a flooded engine will mess one up fast. Never owned a Roto starter but do have bump box for my buggy.
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:27 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: nitro-is-deadly

hey if ur from the U.S

and usually order ur stuff from tower hobbies

YOU should check out my local hobbie stores website ***most of the time they can beat towers prices***

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGGP8&P=ML heres an O.S @ towers

http://www.southeastrc.com/Items/Std...ookup=OSM11860 heres the same exact 1 @ my hob shop

just a heads up
Now if you take Towers coupon off at towers it cost $99.00. All so do not buy either of those engines, as that is the short shaft will not fit in the MT.


Old 12-29-2006 | 07:27 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

no it isnt unlockable if you get the correct kind, you shouldnt be taking your manifold off that often anyways
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:32 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

i dont have a problem with my pull starters...


if i prime the mt2 just right it starts 1 pull

as for the 4-tec electric start

yes cv-r .18

the track is sort of 3 elements

small straights following curves
1 long straight
close small hills

at my track you have to have a R.O.A.R membership

you can go to the website www.csrcraceclub.com

coral springs race track

heres some pics of the developing track

http://www.csrcraceclub.com/index.html
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:33 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread


[/quote]

yeah my next truck will be a kit. as it costs double to upgrade a rtr to a kit. lol
[/quote]

Been telling people this for years and you just end up with a much better vehicle. I was just checking out the difference between the Hyper 8 pro and the Hyper 8 RTR BIG difference. The only RTR I buy in years has been my Mini-Z’s as they do not make them in a kit.


Old 12-29-2006 | 07:36 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: nitro-is-deadly

u wanna knw how i purposely blew my t-15?

when u break it in u put it on a box right?

so i did

i gave it a huge idle speed tho
and gave it full throttle in 5 second burst!


so basiccaly after the break in--the engine was broken

for somereason tho it ran good even after i just put it through hell in the break in session..so wat i do next? i leaned it out soo badly and it overheated so much and i removed the air filter

now i have the O.S

HPI tell people one of the worst ways of breaking an engine in! Sitting idling tanks of fuel is a NO NO.
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:40 PM
  #11163  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

lol yeah i thought that was the correct way back in the day. but then i read about heat cycle break in. thats what i done with my lrp.

ORIGINAL: 46u

ORIGINAL: nitro-is-deadly

u wanna knw how i purposely blew my t-15?

when u break it in u put it on a box right?

so i did

i gave it a huge idle speed tho
and gave it full throttle in 5 second burst!


so basiccaly after the break in--the engine was broken

for somereason tho it ran good even after i just put it through hell in the break in session..so wat i do next? i leaned it out soo badly and it overheated so much and i removed the air filter

now i have the O.S

HPI tell people one of the worst ways of breaking an engine in! Sitting idling tanks of fuel is a NO NO.
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:42 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: nitro-is-deadly

lol my manifld screws keep coming loose.............

should i thread lock them?

but if i did it be hell to get the gasket
All of mine are rear exhaust now but when I ran a side exhaust I put long screws where I could get a lock nut on the end. One of them is kind of hard to get to but I never had an exhaust screw come loose.
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:44 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

yeah they should take that crap out of the manuals then
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:47 PM
  #11166  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

i think the reason they give this way of breakin in a engine is so your engine life is not as long so that means you will have to buy a new engine / conrod & piston. lol hpi are clever
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:47 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

There are many good methods as long as you do not idle tanks of fuel it works fine. My STS has you start them up and let them idle for about 2 minutes 3 times as the pinch on them are REAL tight. But then you put them on the ground and drive it.


[quote]ORIGINAL: djheptic

lol yeah i thought that was the correct way back in the day. but then i read about heat cycle break in. thats what i done with my lrp.

[quote]

Old 12-29-2006 | 07:50 PM
  #11168  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: djheptic

i think the reason they give this way of breakin in a engine is so your engine life is not as long so that means you will have to buy a new engine / conrod & piston. lol hpi are clever


Just like Traxxas telling people to use WD 40 as after run oil! [X(]
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:52 PM
  #11169  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

does anybody know if this head would keep a 18cvrx cooler than the standard head it comes with???
http://cgi.ebay.com/OS-18-CVR-CVRX-N...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 12-29-2006 | 07:54 PM
  #11170  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

same with my lrp. it says idle for to 2mins. and give it half throttle bursts for 4 tanks. then start tuning.

[quote]ORIGINAL: 46u

There are many good methods as long as you do not idle tanks of fuel it works fine. My STS has you start them up and let them idle for about 2 minutes 3 times as the pinch on them are REAL tight. But then you put them on the ground and drive it.


[quote]ORIGINAL: djheptic

lol yeah i thought that was the correct way back in the day. but then i read about heat cycle break in. thats what i done with my lrp.


Old 12-29-2006 | 07:56 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

omg. your joking right? mind you. it wouldnt do that much damage as it does protect against rust. but i only stick to things that are made to go into a nitro engine. ie after-run lol
ORIGINAL: 46u

ORIGINAL: djheptic

i think the reason they give this way of breakin in a engine is so your engine life is not as long so that means you will have to buy a new engine / conrod & piston. lol hpi are clever


Just like Traxxas telling people to use WD 40 as after run oil! [X(]
Old 12-29-2006 | 08:00 PM
  #11172  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

WD 40 is not a good after run oil just look at most engine manufactures instructions. What does your HPI manual say? WD 40 displace moister so all it does is move it to a different place in your engine. After run oil absorbs moister and does not displace it.
Old 12-29-2006 | 08:02 PM
  #11173  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

the O.S cv-r break in was rather easy.

what is the heat break in? ive never heard that term

but the O.S break in was pretty simple :/
Old 12-29-2006 | 08:03 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ah i see. my after-run oil smells so good. it smells like strawberies and its red! lol
Old 12-29-2006 | 08:08 PM
  #11175  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

also im goign to try mills mond park..its about 11 miles away from me but i hear they have decent sized tracks


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