If I use a 25% fuel in my t-15 engine, will I destroy it?

Now I am using 16% (for only 1 lit).
I have also found a 15% very cheap. Should I go for it?

What percentage do you suggest for my t-15?

With the T 15 I recommend 20% nitro fuel with no more then 12% oil content. I would not go over 20% nitro. Unless you race I do not recommend over 20% nitro as it does not make that big of a difference for bashing. Sorry to say the T-15 is not the best engine but have fun with it and save up for a different one like the OS CV-R or RX!

Sorry guys I cannot take credit for the above post on shock springs, as it is a cut and past job. Easier to cut and past then type it all out. But either way very good reading.

yes it was very good reading, what site did you pull it from??

Very good site! I printed it and it took around 60 pages.
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/
Another good source of information on set ups is go to Xray’s web site and look at their manuals. Besides Xray having some of the best vehicles out there they all so have some of the best manuals as in them they have a lot of information about set up which most manufactures neglect.

hey guys thanks for all the feedback. judging from what 46u said i think i am going to go soft in the back and medium in the front

That will be a good place to start. Let us know how it goes and good luck. I have round 4 of the Georgia Championship Series Saturday and will not be able to go up Friday to practice or spend the night do to my youngest daughter’s graduation from college.

hey 46u congrats.. and ill be going to the hobby shop this saturday and run it the same day. ill let u guys know how it handles

Yes... I agree with you 46U.... However I've been using 25% and it works pretty well though I'm not a racer.

hey everybody well im new to this forum and i also have an hpi MT2 .18ss, but right now im having trouble trying to build the diffs and to shim them correctly, and i was wondering if anyone could help me out on giving me advice on building them, because this is the first time i tried building diferentials before.

and if anyone could let me know on a good engine to repalce the stock .18ss and a good pipe also.

the os 18 cvrx is the engine which most people tend to go and the tsais rear exit pipe get good reviews

hey people
i haven`t posted here in a while. just reading and lurking. my mt2 ss is running great.
so great i`m thinking about getting other one and make the one i got now for street use only.
my question is. does anybody know what parts i need to make the street one a two speed.
i would really like tower hobby part numbers. i still got the 18ss engine in it and if i got the two speed
for it would i be able to use it with a diff engine?
thanks.

how much backlash should there be when the diffs. are put together and shimmed right? and how many shims should there be between the final gear and the bearing?

there should be about 1mm of play.
most people had to use 2 shims but a few used three.

I shim both my ring gear and pinion gear. I shim mine where I get as much tooth engagement with out bind.

when you say you shim both the ring gear and pinion gear where exactly is that? and how many shims do you put in it to get max tooth engagement without any bind?

and 46u maybe you can help me, when i hold the diff case and the 38t gear together and spin the cup joint the other turns in the oppisite direction, but when i put the four screws in the diff assembly i dont get any diff action is it suppose to move freely when i turn the cup joint because its sort of difficult to move the cup joint and get the other to move the opposite direction. and i was wondering if you can give me a little help on this problem of mine thanks.

OK you have two gears that are called final gears. You have one that you put the drive cup on for the center dog bone (drive shaft). This is the pinion gear. Then you have a gear that attaches to the diff cup is the ring gear. As far as how many shims I cannot say as different ones take different amounts of shims. I have had to use anywhere between 1 to 3 shims in each location.

When you say you put your diff together and spin the cup it is not real smooth this might be so but with out being able to check it my self cannot tell what is OK and what is too much bind. New diffs do not turn as easy or smooth as when the get a little wear (seat in) on them. But just guessing more then likely you are OK.

alright thanks that explained alot. im going to try setting those shims tonight and see how much engagement i get.

do you know any good engines and pipe i might be able to use because im thinking about replacing the stock .18ss. any info. would help.

Not trying to start anything but watch out as big brother is watching. No I do not have anything for sale. I sell my stuff on ebay when I am selling. All I have is a set of alloy monster truck wheels on it under vld35.

Do they make any kind of 17mm wheel adapter so you can run buggy wheels? Its for the lightning gt10 which looks the same at the wheel.

I own the HPI Glow Plug Ignitor w/AC Charger and I would like to know the charging time (no manual was included).
Thanks.

definently get the os 18cv-r engine and for a pipe get either tsais rear exhaust or THSracing pipe, i run this engine with the tsais rear exhaust and it performs like a champ, i have never used the THSracing pipe but i have heard nothing but good about it even rumors that it is better than the tsais but they are both about the same price so take your pick

u should charge it for atleast 5 hrs. overnight is the best just plug it in be4 you sleep ans it will start your car all day for one day..

well im having a problem of my own. well i just got my glow plug and shock oil and started my car. it started like a champ. then it didnt start so i charger the glow plug igniter more for an hour and a half. then it stil didnt start so i put it to factory settings. it still didnt start. i looked at the glow plug ignitor and found out that the batter was loose from the shaft. so i tightned it and started the car. now it wont stay in idle i always have to start pushing the trigger lighty and when i let go of the trigger it dies.. anyone help plz

you need to slightly tighten the idler screw ( the one with the sprint on it), if you have a rotary carb then you should look into the carb inlet and tighten it until the opening is about as big as the thickness of a credit card, if you have a slide carb then the opening should be about 1mm

it doesnt have anything with the tuning??. because right after i put it to factory setting it wont idle. anyway ill try that.. how much should i tighten it 1/8??

depends on what engine you have check your manual