HPI will tell you the 100cc tank will not fit in the MT1. I have it in my MT 1 3/4 but you do have to do some modifications. You have to cut the upper deck and drill and counter sink one hole.

All so for a little more money there are better engines out there then the 3.0!

Why would anyone what to run a HP robbing heavy steel spur?

MattVid, where did you get that flywheel? Will that work with the G3.0?

46u, thanks for the info. I got the G3.0 engine for $60 on ebay new. There weren't any engines even close to that price that were new, and I have read some decent reviews of the G3.0.

-TC

Matt is it sticking at the bottom of the cylinder or the top? Take glow plug out and take a look as you are pulling it and see where it is sticking.
Those washers help to prevent stripping out the wheels from over tightening. It spreads the pressure over a wider portion of the plastic. You should be able to run the truck to test it out but I wouldnt run it hard till you have the washers on.
The truck looks great. What are you doing for a body?
Which flywheel did you go with?

I am a fat noob, but I went ahead and re-built my engine ... well, I am in the process of rebuilding it.

Here is what I found: There were no gaskets on the back plate or on the head of the engine. I would imagine that would significantly effect compression. I have no clue if this guy was actually running the engine like this, or what, but it seems kind of silly.

From looking at the piston, it is definitely catching at the top. Here are some pictures:




As you can see in the first picture, it is sticking at the top, and actually pushing the sleeve out. That is definitely what was causing the issue. If I hold the sleeve in with my hand, I can feel the piston sort of snap/jerk back and forth when it hits the top, and it is very apparent looking at the rod that is pushing the piston. I would assume there is some heating and cooling wear or damage to the piston and/or sleeve where there is now a narrower channel for the piston to travel through ... as it definitely isn't catching on anything else. This is my first time with nitro, and my first time disassembling an engine, it has been quite a learning experience And the second day at that!

I am not too happy about the engine not running , but I am assuming some of my carb no-intaking-gas problems are due to the lack of gaskets? Overall, it has been a great learning experience, as I have no clue how these mini engineering marvels work

The larger engine head, fly-wheel and racing clutch came with the engine, which is one reason I am not too disappointed with scoring the whole package for 54 bucks (shipped). So I have no clue where he got that fly-wheel, and I didn't see any markings on it, but I will have a closer look and let you know.

As for the body, it came with the stock one, I just haven't painted it yet. I am going to run to the hobby shop later this week and get some paint and stuff for that. Though, it is snowing outside now, so it might have to wait :P

I am at a crossroads and need to decide if this engine is worth fixing, or if I should just go for a new engine. Any insight on that would be great. I also need to find some washers that would work for the wheels, though my hobby shop will probably have some that would work. I am turning in for the night though, will be on the forums tomorrow at work, see ya then

the engine pushing up like that is normal, it still has alot of "pinch" left (GOOD THING), did the previous owner say if it was "broken in" or not?

He told me it was broken in, and when taking it apart it was definitely nice and greased up. But the reason I started taking it apart was because of that sticky feeling ... is that normal too?

And also, when I tried to start it up tonight it wasn't sucking in gas through the carb. I primed it by blowing in the exhaust tube to get the gas up to the carb, but I couldn't get it to start. I tried opening up the throttle some more, but it was like the carb didn't have much or any suction. Could this be due the the total lack of gaskets? All sucking power would be gone I assume?

If all I need to do is get a gasket set to get this baby running, that would be awesome. And thanks for letting me know about the "pinch", I am still new at this. But the engine did feel very sticky at the top, I figured it would just be smoother. So that stickiness is completely normal?

Hey, I used to use the metal gear. You just use the lock nut and sand it in half or any nut (that fits) in half so you can fit the spring, slipper clutch and drive cups all on the rod. With the original nut you wont be able to fit it as you wont have enough room to slide in the pin for the slipper. If you need help I wil post pics of what I am talking about.

He wants different teeth measurements that the plastic ones cant give him..

Hey, make sure your glow plug is ok. It wont suck the nitro fuel in. You have to prime it. Put your finger over the stinger of the pipe and pull the engine over. Wait till the gas goes into the carby then give it a few pulls. The engines exhaust fumes are pushed through the nipple on top of the pipe through into the fuel tank and pressurises the tank which pushes the fuel into the carby.

Matt sticking at the top is different then at the bottom. As the other guys said that is the pinch and thats a good thing. Thats also why you want the piston at BDC when its cooling so you retain as much of that pinch as possible.
As for the gaskets, all you should have is a thing o ring around the inside of the back plate on the part that actually sits inside the case.
Here is a link on how to seal an engine. http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums...ead.php?t=2572
If the fuel isnt making it through the carb into the engine it could just be some dirt or built up oil residue. I had the same problem and I used my air compressor to just force some air through the fuel intake and it worked fine after that. Do check your glow plug and igniter to make sure they are working too.

Well, you learn something new everyday. I guess I will look into getting a gasket set and the supplies needed for sealing the engine.

Is that silicone sealer something that hobby stores would have, or more home improvement stores? And also, what is the Team Assocaited Green Goo Grease? Is it something special, or are there other things that are similar? My LHS doesn't seem to carry much Team Associated stuff, so I am not sure they will have that.

As far as gaskets and o-rings go. In the manual for the OS engine I have, there is clearly an o-ring on the back plate and a gasket (or gaskets depending temperature) on the head. Are you saying that a gasket on the head isn't necessary?

And I checked the glow plug first thing, and it works fine. Glows a nice red/orange. I will look at the carb more, as it does seem kind of dirty in spots. Or possibly I didn't prime it enough ... I didn't know how much was too much and didn't want to flood the engine.

Also, about the priming. When I put my finger over the exhaust port and pulled the starter, no gas was being sucked through. Could this be due to the lack of gaskets/o-rings on the engine? Just trying to figure out what is causing my issue. The only way I could get it to prime was to pull the exhaust tube and blow into it, pressurizing the tank and forcing fuel into the carb. And that plug the exhaust trick not working made me think something was wrong.

I think I might have found the fly wheel that came with my truck. It looks like the same one spoonrc uses, except his is blue. They could be different, but it honestly looks identical to mine.

Here is the link: [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESB3]DuraTrax Flywheel[/link]

And this is the information from the CV-R manual on the piston/sleeve and the head gasket(s).

With this engine, the piston will feel tight
at the top of its stroke when the engine is
cold. This is normal. The piston and
cylinder are designed to achieve a
perfect running clearance when they
reach their normal running temperatures.

That answers the "sticking" issue I was having before. Thanks for clearing that up for me guys

About Head Gasket
These engines are fitted with two head gaskets
of 0.1mm thick and 0.2mm thick. It is
suggested to adjust the total thickness
according to atmospheric temperature,
humidity and glowplug used.
At early stage of running-in, when a glowplug
tends to burn out early or when high
nitromethane content fuel is used, try to run
the engine as it is.
When low nitromethane content fuel is used,
try to run the engine removing a 0.1mm
gasket.

So the engine comes fitted with .3mm of gaskets, and mine currently has none on it. That seems like it would be an issue. Then again, I don't know a lot about this stuff yet

The engine sealer you can get at any automotive store. If you have an AID auto near you they have it.
The OS manual shows a few o rings on the engine so you need to make sure they are all in place. That couldnt definitely cause an air leak which would cause all kinds of problems for the engine.
I read somewhere you can use regular vasoline in place of that green goo. All you are really doing to putting a light coating on the needle threads to make sure there is no air leaking in. I used the vasoline on mine and it works fine.
You want the fuel to make it all the way into the brass intake in order to get it started. Ive also put a few drops in through the glow plug to help get it started some times. Just dont put too much fuel in or you'll cause a hydro lock and it will be almost impossible to get the engine to turn over. If you do flood the engine, just take the glow plug out, turn the truck over and let the excess drain out.
To prime it with the exhaust plug, make sure the battery is off, move the throttle to wide open. Cover the exhaust tip and pull the pull start a few times. The fuel should flow to the carb. If it doesnt then you either have a blockage or an air leak.

Im honestly not sure on the head gasket thing. Im new to the OS engines. I just got my TZ and I havent had a chance to install it yet.
eminent would probably know better on that.

So where and how much did you score your TZ for, Keith?

I found it on ebay, I got lucky I got it for 113 brand new

Thank you. I am interested in seeing the setup if you can maybe that might make more sense. I have found a 1.0 "module" pitch made by losi here : http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA3575
i wonder if that will mesh just like the stock clutch bell?

More on the fly wheel stuff, possibly.

spoonrc had a post on page 736 of this thread that you should check out, he has his whole set up listed out with links to each of the parts. I would take his advice over mine at this point, I am still a relative noobie. I will try to take some pictures and stuff once I get my engine back together if you like.

Here is the direct link to his post, I hope this works ... [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1505231/mpage_736/key_/tm.htm#[/link]
Post #18395

He has it with the TZ engine, I have the CV-R, I would assume it would fit on the G3.0, but I am not 100% sure. I am not really sure how the clutch bell/shoes work to be honest, need to do some research on that ... unless someone can enlighten me here (you guys are awesome).

And nice Keith, that is a helluva deal on that TZ. I am too scared to purchase that beast ... yet. Need to understand this stuff a little better before I start hopping up everything. Though, it will all happen in due time

HOLY CR$P there is so much to read today!!!!!!!!! wow lol good stuff its been awhile since this thread was booming like this

Good deal on the tz keith!!! I paid 300 for mine at the lhs.......... I was being a "boy" and wanted it now lol
That is the blue duratraxx lightned and vented flywhell.

About the sticking at the bottom of the stroke thats caused from a pressure build up in the crank case for your intake boost. you can usually feel it more on a flooded or brand new non broken in engine.

Matt what did you want to know about the clutch shoes?
I cant wait to get the TZ installed. Its still freezing here though so its going to be a little longer.

the tz is going to blow you away man im serious its amazing.

Hey mate! You will enjoy this hobby very well if you haven't before!

Ok with that flywheel I am not 100% sure if the HPI collet will fit. I am sure it will though. I have my flywheel secured to a drive washer which is this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXARS5&P=7. I reckon they are 10X better then a collet as it grabs into the flywheel. I haven't had mine slip where is when I was using a collet with the old fly wheel it slipped.

I recommend keeping the CV-R. The TZ is fun but way too much power. I have fixed my diffs twice. Well I am fixing the second atm. You will do around 55mph with good gearing but at around 3/4 of throttle you will just loose control on dirt/grass.

Heres a video http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=SMV7l9...e=channel_page I made a month or so ago. I can't get more then 3/4 on this grass. I have new wheels on back order and aluminum diff cups on the way.

Just installed my Traxxas Revo pipe, with some modding. Yet to drill the stinger out to 6mm (from 5mm to 6mm you think there isn't much gain but it is, a whoping 13.5% gain in hp!) Ill do some testing tomorrow or thurdsay with this pipe. I have heard good things though!

Oh yes and the clutch shoes etc. Well, you have the drive shaft that will use a collet or drive washer that grabs onto your flywheel. Your flywheel will always want to be at the RPM the cranckshaft is. Then you have clutch shoes on your flywheel, they work on enersha, the shoes at higher rpm are pushed outwards from the flywheel and grab onto the inside of the clutchbell. Therefore spinning the clutchbell. At idle your clutch shoes dont have enough rpm to engage the clutch bell, higher the rpm the more they will grab! (hope you could understand) I am hopless with gearing though. Best clutch shoes are aluminum too, or racing ones that are lighter and have more grab at lower rpm for acceleration. The ones I use are very quick and adjustable.

Good luck! (its a dear hobby too, I just spent $1000 on my savage!)
(pic is messy, was taking with my iPhone 3G)

Thanks spoon, and everyone for the help so far. I figured the clutch shoes worked on inertia, as it only makes sense that way. But I do understand how they work now, thanks! I have that lightweight aluminum fly wheel with the standard, stock clutch right now ... though, my engine is in pieces at the moment I had one question about the clutch shoes though, mine are VERY tight, is that how they are supposed to be? The racing clutch that came with my motor had shoes/springs that seem a little more loose (but they were also worn some, as they have been used).

I was thinking of just going with the standard clutch bell for now, and at a later time I could upgrade it, or possibly replace the shoes on the racing clutch that came with the engine. But is there a way to be sure the clutch bell is compatible with the fly wheel? I tried comparing them all and they seemed to be the same sizes and fit on the crank shaft. The only differences being the materials and the stiffness of the clutch shoes springs.

Update on the engine, I went ahead and sent a non-confrontational e-mail to the eBay seller of the engine. I just want to know if he actually ran the engine in its current state, and I mentioned the lack of o-rings and gaskets that I witnessed. I also ordered a gasket set, and picked up some of the engine cleaner, sealer and washers for the wheels last night. I will probably try to seal the carb tonight and then hopefully be able to get the engine together and working by this weekend once I get the gasket set in.

And would most everyone recommend the drive washer over the collet? I might try to pick up one of those (as they are cheap) if that is the case.

I will keep you all updated!

Alright, I have replaced all of my fuel lines, new fuel tank, ordered a new engine mount, and picked up new clutch shoes/springs to go with the G3.0 engine that is coming. I plan on using my old flywheel...hope it works with the G3.0.

This is a completely stock MT1. What would everyone recommend I upgrade/change next? Everything looks like it is in pretty good shape. I think I will change out the 52T spur gear with a fresh one, as some of the teeth are showing signs of wear. I will also be pulling apart the diffs to clean them up and apply some fresh lube. Are there any MT2 parts that I should put on my MT1?

Thanks for everyone's help so far.

-TC

Matt the tightness of the clutch shoes depends on the springs. The stiffer the spring the higher the engine rpms have to be before the clutch engages. You can adjust that be using stiffer or softer springs depending on your driving style and the surface you are running on. The springs do wear out and break after a while so the one thats on there could be softer or just worn as you said.
The CB's are pretty much standard. The only ones Ive come across that are different was a traxxas one. If you stay with HPI CB's you'll be fine.
What washer are you referring to on the collet?
When you seal the engine, dont forget to do the back plate as well as the carb.

tcoop, the old flywheel should work fine. If the teeth on the spur are worn definitely replace it. Stick with a plastic spur since they are cheap and you want a weak spot in the tranny so that you dont break something more expensive if something gets stuck.
I would definitely upgrade the diffs to the hardened ones. They are more expensive but in the long run it will be better then having to keep replacing the cheap ones. One good 180 on throttle and you are going to shread the stock diffs.