Well I haven't taken the pullstart off yet. But it looks like the backplate is designed differently. I am accustomed to taking off the

starter and the the backplate to seal it...this one looks like the plate is internal and the pullstart is what is sealing the back of the motor

finally got my truck running again. ive only had one day of somewhat decent weather to tune and stuff, so hopefully i will get some videos of it pretty soon.

Well with the 2' + of snow we got today there wont be much driving for a while... Feels like Eminent's world around here right now..

The "X" in "CV-RX" means it has a pull start (or "recoil" as O.S. calls it). But the engine series is the CV-R. They don't stamp an "X" on the cooling head on the pull start ones.

Sealing the carb and/or backplate is quite unnecessary on a brand new engine; especially as well made of one as a current O.S. Don't get caught-up in all these "seal your engine" posts from the seal-obsessed people. It is completely unnecessary on this engine and you will just be un-seating the good seal(s) that was created with initial assembly.

I have the .18 CV-RX with slide carb (#11881) (ok I have a few of them) and it is a good engine except for the one-way bearing which likes to slip but hopefully you have several happy gallons to go before that. I run my MT2 with a 13T CB and 52T spur but I am not after all out top speed and it is pretty fast with that gearing and has the best bottom end acceleration. If you want more speed than you can get with your 13T or 15T CB just throw in a 49T spur. (that is what the now discontinued MT2 kits came with)

Here is some info from O.S. Engines web-site about air leaks. I highly recommend reading it in its entirety:

http://www.osengines.com/faq/faq-q687.html

Well said. Needing to seal is usually a sign of another problem and its best to fix the problem instead of using a bandage. The engines are designed to work without needing sealing

Hey everyone. How's it goin? I don't mean to be busting in hear, but I'm getting my MT2 if a week or so and I have a question...
First of all, is there anything I should upgrade right off that bat? I'm buying it lightly used (the guy said only two tanks, but it's on a .15 engine which i'm pretty sure isn't stock. plus, the chassis is red). It has some upgrades already, but anything I should change if it comes stock?

The .15 is the stock engine in the original MT2. The G3.0 came with the .18.
Is the chassis red or is it purple?
Two tanks wouldnt be enough to even do a proper break in.
Check the diffs as soon as you get it. They are notorious for breaking.

It's red (see pic)
And for the diffs, should I take them apart and look for broken gears or what?

Im guessing he spray painted that himself.
For the diffs just hold one tire and turn the other. Then turn each tire in the opposite direction. They should turn smoothly with no binding and no skipping.

Its amazing how every used engine or truck purchased is barely driven. A majority of people that get into the hobby buy an RC, drive it for two tanks and then sell the truck. Something is wrong with the hobby if people lose interest so quickly.

Back to reality...nice to see you here Prey and congratulations on adding a sister truck to your firestorm. Just do a quick differential check and a quick inspection of the rest of the truck to see if everything is attached properly and the servos are set right and go for it. The red paint on the chassis bottom won't last long.

My MT2 is on the block right now, will post it on kijijji in the new year......just two tanks on it....barely driven....almost new....

Not really the hobby. Some people just get in over their heads and can't deal with it. They see 65 MPH on the box think its like a cheap TYCO, buy it not knowing the maintenance, upkeep, and fine tuning that comes with it. Then they sell it once it stops working right. My brother was going to buy a nitro to race me till I showed him the work it is setting it up, and working on the engine. And he decided that it wasn't a good idea seeing he can't even assemble my niece and nephews toys on xmas, and has to call me to do it.

I got my Savage X was like that. The guy put he drove it for less than 5 tanks (5th tank was still in it when I got it... rusted part of the engine...) and it kept flipping on him(body he sent it with almost had a hole worn through it). Engine was toasted from him running it too lean(honestly I have no idea how he started the engine it was so lean), and not bothering to break it in. I do believe it only was ran though the 5 tanks seeing the bumper had 3-4 almost non visible scratches on it (hell I paid $200 for it with shipping, it came with some RPM parts and a $50 futaba servo ).

BTW my MT1.9 hasn't been run in like 4 months . Really sucked the last warm month by me it poured literally EVERY day I had time to drive it. Now winters here, and its sidelined till it gets warm out again. I really wanna drive it but I don't want to risk damaging the engine with the cold air.(I know richen it but like I said don't wanna risk it)

The bigger problem with the cold is it makes everything so brittle. The slightest crash and you end up with major damage

Other than an hour long bash a month ago I havn't driven a nitro since the end of August. My electric has been down for a month as well. Depressing..but my esc and motor and coming back soon.

I was making more of a comment on the lies people say to sell a truck. I can see a lot of traffic in and quickly out of the hobby for most people - regardless of the reasons its just too tempting for some people to be dishonest to get a few extra bucks when filling out the ebay ad. I assume a used truck has a blown engine and consider it a bonus if the engine is good. I bought two trucks with excellent used engines and ironically the owners were honest that they were a few gallons old. Probably about 10 trucks with blown engines that were 'almost new'. It reduces the credibility of people who do sell excellent used trucks and lowers the used truck price.

You're absolutely right. Most people dont know whats involved when they get into nitro and then dont have the patience to learn. The trucks the owners tell you have gallons on them more then likely broke them in correctly and spent the time to keep up the maintenance. The trucks people claim are practically new, in all reality they probably are. Because it doesnt take long to comepletely destroy a nitro engine if you dont know what you are doing.

True about deceptive ads. Heres my dealing with a deceptive ad.
I'll be honest this spring I had no idea what I was doing when I got my 1st Nitro MT for $100 on ebay(way overpaid I know). Guy claimed excellent condition, engines good, and the whole spiel. Got it the engine gave me trouble non stop (it was a old Nitro star.15FE) turns out its pinch was shot. Bought a NIB Nitro Star T-15 (I find it 100% reliable never failed to start yet, and decent speed for general bashing) for $65. 1st tank after break in the original MT parts started breaking due to being brittle with age. So many parts were snapping left and right I actually bought a box of MT1 parts off Craiglist for $50 (actually assembled a 2nd MT1 out of the box). Now only stock MT1 parts left after 5-6 months of use(almost a gallon of nitro) is the chassis plate, center gear assembly, and the diffs. Every other part is a MT2's and none have broke. In all truth I wish I came here and asked questions 1st instead of just going out and buying it.
Weird thing is the 2nd MT I got for $50 has yet to break any stock pieces and it actually looked older than the 1st one I paid $100 for. In all truth after all the parts I bought I probably broke about even with a new MT2's cost.
But hell one thing I did learn from the whole ordeal was how to completely disassemble and reassemble a MT1/MT2 without even needing an instruction manual I did it so many times

And same with my electric's, well don't wanna take the MT1 I converted out due to its parts age, my Brama I gutted because I'm doing a complete overhaul on it, and am currently waiting for some aluminum drive chain parts from china(it took me around 3 weeks to find dogbones to fit my new cups). After that comes in I'm gonna order an 8.5t 60a brushless ESC/motor combo for it to try and make one of the fastest bramas out and tomorrow(or day after) I will be getting a Tamiya Plasma edge kit, that I'm going to dump all waterproof electronics in for my winter driving.

In case I do get the truck and the engine is toast, what are some options of engines that would be a good replacement for it? I'm not looking for the most power, mainly something that won't break quickly (I know that's all user dependent, but still)

You cant go wrong with either an OS or an LRP .18. Both will give good power and are excellent engines.

If you just want something that's ok in power, and relatively cheap, I found my HPI Nitro Star T-15 (generally around $65 on ebay) does a fairly good job. Out of the Nitro engines I own its reliable, starts in seconds, easiest to tune, and is just right for my truck. I estimate it gets my truck up around 30-35Mph. But I have my truck's suspension set high with masher 2k tires so if it goes too fast it will flip very quickly on turns. The glowplug that came with it, that was used in its break-in, I still use and its went through around 80% of a gallon of nitro and has yet to give me any kind of issues. Honestly after using the Nitro Star T-15 I'd recommend it to anyone just starting nitro as a good beginner engine.

BTW I also got a G3.0 but I perfer the T-15 over it personally. I don't really need the increased power and speed the G3 gives where I drive. I mainly keep it as a backup in case my nitro star ever goes out on me

This talk about engines made me decide to put my spare new G3 in my MT2 and put my (honest) 2-gallon G3 (that came with my storm) in my evader roller in order to sell them.

Does anyone have a winter project on the go? I am making an FLM-mid tank savage and its coming along nicely. The LST shock conversion kit and a shock tower set was ordered today. The truck has more aluminum than I would like but I am going to try it.

Think I saw that mod before with the mid tank looked interesting.

Like i said earlier my main winter project is putting a 8.5t brushless into a Brama and strengthening it to survive the power . So far I have put a Nitro RS4's drive cups on it to replace the stock plastic cups, and got some redcat dogbones to fit it (seriously only dogbones I could find and I went through EVERY other manufacturers parts list lol). Guy at my LHS that was helping me look said he saw one other person do it, and he gave up looking for a dogbone welded his own together.

My winter project is keeping my revo running in the snow, preferably without getting stuck in the process. Somehow, I don't suffer from cold weather issues of brittle parts yet, but there's always a first. Too bad I don't think that the driveline could put up with some paddle tires in the snow.

The FLM chassis with LST shocks is pretty cool. I will have pictures when its a roller. The rest of my work has been prepping some trucks for the upcoming season and the rest to sell.

thanks shoestringracer for the info. you answered my questions well. I will hold off on the sealing, I am use to sealing the heck out of my hpi savage engine to keep it from leaking. I have read the article on the link you suggested...very good.

I got the specified engine mounts for the O.S. 18 to go on the MT2 and I think I have something wrong here. With the flywheel and cb on the engine, the chassis holes do not line up with the engine mount holes. I am going o post some pictures if I can get them resized.

The holes arent lining up front to back or side to side? Which mounts did you get?