right. It could be the spring or it could be the arm that actually grabs the clutch. There isnt much to the two speed clutch assembly so troubleshooting is pretty easy

Yeah, the engine is getting peak RPM.

I just noticed by looking at the manual that the original MT2 was 1-gear only. However, I found that the 2-gear transmission is the same used today on the RS4 Evo, obviously with different gear ratios. The 1st gear actually do disengage from the shaft, 'cause when 2nd gear engages, the shaft will start spinning faster than the 1st gear (that is permanently attached to the double-gear pinion), so the one-way bearing will let the shaft spin free.

I'm now a little confused here, 'cause if we had a locked 1st gear, when the 2nd gear clutch actuator moves out, it would meet a faster moving gear body that would not spin at it's speed ('cause 1st was locked) and that would surely break something.

But I will suggest my friend to buy the rebuild kit.

Thanks KeithjV and nitro-rob

The first gear disengages because when second gear kicks in and grabs the shaft the one way bearing on first gear slips effectively releasing the first gear from the shaft. So does your second gear not engage then? You say you see the second gear engage and it appears the first gear disengages then say that you have a locked first gear which means it doesn't disengage. Can you clarify? Sorry for the questions and confusion, its hard to diagnose remotely. The second gear engages by centrifugal force that has a sort of 'pin' that engages the shaft and the timing of the engagement is controlled by the spring tension that is determined by a set screw.
I had a problem with my evo - the second gear hub that is connected to the shaft (and is engaged by the 'pin' that grabs the hub) came loose and when second gear was engaging it was spinning the hub that wasn't attached to the shaft. It would shift properly for a while when I tightened it but then stop shifting - in the end the solution was loctiting (is that a verb?) the set screw that connects the hub to the shaft.

I think you found it

It definitely could be that small allen screw backing out.

Thanks for the hint

[]s,
Daniel

Hey man, I dont think you should need a rebuild kit for the 2 speed the only time you need that is if the pin in the bell part of the clutch actually breaks off or gets really messed up and if the one way bearing goes you wont have 1st gear at all it will just spin on the shaft. If the one way bearing locks on the shaft you will shredd a spur gear. (never heard of this happening before) Try backing out the adjustment screw a fair bit and watch really closely when you take them apart that there is no "mushrooming" on the tip of the "actuator" (dont know what to call that thing lol) if the tip of the actuator is mushroomed out a bit just take a fine file and clean up the edges a bit.

i finally got my truck back together, so heres some pics. il get some videos up once i get the two speed working properly. theyre just blackberry pics, so theyre not the best

Nice and dirty just like mine Dont take this the wrong way man but I think you shoud ditch that air cleaner I have read everwhere that there no good and let alot of dirt through.

no offense taken. i know that the filters crap, just havnt gotten a new one yet.

I starter working on the used FLM savage this weekend and found a nice treat - the differentials are beautiful. I don't know what brand they are but they are sealed, aluminum case and much beefier than the HPI ones (they are not CEN). I was pretty happy when I saw them. The truck is coming along slowly. I should have the centre chassis and bulkheads on in a few days and then the pace will slow down a lot since I don't have any servos, a receiver, hubs, tires, shocks, body and engine for it yet. There are a few little things that need to be done as well that will take a fair bit of time to get right related to the custom mid tank mod. I am quite happy with it, it will be a great truck when its done. It looks like I have until May anyways unless I take a southern vacation.

As usual I am way behind on posting pictures. I will get to it soon.

Rob what kind of radio are you looking to put in the truck?

I am going to get one for my DX3s.

You should find out what kind of diffs they are man I need some better ones

hey ive been away from rc for a while a year or so...i own 2 vehicles..a buggy and truggy, i want to get back into racing again. anyway, my question is how does the mt2 do on the track compared to the other 1/10 scale trucks? ive never really raced 1/10 scale before, but the local track here races them. im not sure what they are, but some of the 1/10 scale trucks they race are pretty fast. jsut wonerin how this 4wd truck could hold up against them?

Hey towns welcome back.
The MT2 does pretty well on the track with the right tires. The stock yokohamas dont hook up very well. Depending on the track surface you are running on you will probably want some sort of pin type tire. Aside from that it will just need to be tuned to your driving style and the track. Are there any restrictions as to what engines you can run?

thanks for the reply, there are no restrictions for this track. but whats a good engine to put in a mt2 to race? .18? half the stadium trucks are electric. but i want nitro.

OS is probably the best bet. The CVR is an excellent engine but if you want pure POWER get a TZ. Even the brushless trucks wont be able to keep up with the TZ. But with that much power you are going to need good tires or you'll never be able to control it.
Any pictures of your cars?

sorry double post, but i dont haev any pics right now, my cars are still int eh basement on the bench covered with some dust []. but i plan to get them back on the track soon. anyway..so are we talking .18 size engines for a mt2? or 15?

dp

The os .18 TZ is the king of engines for the MT2, its a beast.

WELL I finally did my one project of converting my 2nd RS4 nitro MT1 to electric that I mentioned a few pages back (I still have my MT2 nitro convert as nitro and its staying that way )

In all truth the whole conversion took me at most 2 hours, and most of that time was spent trying to figure out what I could use to stop rear chassis flex, and mount the ESC.

Battery tray is a cut down Traxxas Stampede Chassis (found it for $10 shipped )
motor for now a 35t Saturn (out of my Brama) gonna pop in a 27 turn once it arrives. Ran it for 20 minutes today at full throttle, and it the motor didn't even get warm to the touch.
ESC is a HPI (again out of my Brama)
Motor mount is some cheap airplane mount I dremeled the hole bigger.
Pinion gear is a 11 tooth MOD 1 by Novak (had to also 3/16 X .028 stainless steel tube to make a adapter to fit the motor shaft)

I used a spare front shock mount to mount the antenna and to make a place 2 run 2 cut down parts trees to the rear shock tower, which I zip tied the ESC and power switch to.
there is a stronger brace underneath the ESC that I had leftover from the MT2 wing mount mod I did a few months back.

In all truth I was actually shocked at how easy it all went together. And if the 27t motor doesn't get warm I'll probably drop in the 20t motor I have in my Brama and see how it does with that.

Nice work syco. Any chance of getting more pictures of how you mounted the motor? Im thinking about converting one of my MT2's to electric but the motor mount has been slowing me down.

I had the same issue looking for a mount I got fed up looking and just ordered a "RC Plane Airplane Metal CNC L Motor Engine Mount" from gemstraveller on ebay. I figured at $4.80ish I wouldn't have been very mad if I couldn't get it to work unlike most of the other mounts I've seen for $10-20 and had no idea how I would go about mounting it
the holes to mount it to the chassis were a little small for the screws I used so I enlarged them with my one drill bit
And for the motor I had to royally enlarge the hole on it. Grinding the hole out to fit the shaft through actually was the part that took me the longest. I probably spent a hour on the mount alone everything else was around 30-40 mins tops.

Too bad the pic of the bottom is too blurry or you could have seen the horrendous job I did measuring the holes locations and how I was off by 2-3mm on each one.

Here are two of the pics I took of the mount (rest were too blurry) before the cameras battery died.

yesterday i noticed my engine was leaking from the front bearing. its a hpi k4.6 and all i can find is a complete crankcase. is there anyway i can take it aparta and clean the surface and re-seal it, or will i have to replace the crankcase and bearings?

from what I read on the HPI Monster Truck forum you will need new bearings seeing the ones they supply with the K series suck

I bought a brand new K4.6 and put it in my savage and honestly its the worst engine I've had to date in anything(counting a .15FE with no compression in this). It broke a conrod's Brass bearing somewhere in the 1st 9-10 tanks (counting 6 breakin tanks) which then get wedged in the engine and was slowly ground up. I'm only glad the brass was so brittle they used that it didn't actually damage the piston or sleeve at all. I actually haven't even touched my savage since replacing the rod the engine irks me so. Think I'll save up some and get a LRP 30 or so next spring and maybe auction the K4.6 off.

ive heard the same thing about how much these engines suck, but this is the first problem ive had with mine and ive ran close to 4 gallons through it. plus it definitely has enough power for a little mt1. i guess il look on the monster truck forum for replacement bearings. thanks for the tip.