Official HPI MT2 Thread
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So i took off the back plate and looked inside today to check for rust. I can't really tell what i've found. Everything inside looks clean except for (what i think is) the crank shaft. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures what everything looks like so Iposted a few in case one helps more than the other. To get your bearing, the bottom of the engine is to the left on the pictures and the cooling head is off to the right. When I wipe my finger on the brown part, no rusty residue comes off, only oil. Is it normal for this piece to be brown but everything else clean? Ikind of looks like the burned top of a piston, only this is all over.
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From: algonquin,
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ORIGINAL: PreyForTomorrow
So i took off the back plate and looked inside today to check for rust. I can't really tell what i've found. Everything inside looks clean except for (what i think is) the crank shaft. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures what everything looks like so I posted a few in case one helps more than the other. To get your bearing, the bottom of the engine is to the left on the pictures and the cooling head is off to the right. When I wipe my finger on the brown part, no rusty residue comes off, only oil. Is it normal for this piece to be brown but everything else clean? I kind of looks like the burned top of a piston, only this is all over.
So i took off the back plate and looked inside today to check for rust. I can't really tell what i've found. Everything inside looks clean except for (what i think is) the crank shaft. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures what everything looks like so I posted a few in case one helps more than the other. To get your bearing, the bottom of the engine is to the left on the pictures and the cooling head is off to the right. When I wipe my finger on the brown part, no rusty residue comes off, only oil. Is it normal for this piece to be brown but everything else clean? I kind of looks like the burned top of a piston, only this is all over.

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yeah you've got some rust on that crankshaft. That is really no big deal but if there is rust at the crankpin and it makes the conrod not move smooth it is a problem. And your bearings have to be free spinning. With the cooling head off does the crank spin nice and free? It looks like the engine could be a little gummed up if it has been sitting long it may not spin free nice and smooth. it isnt uncommon for a crank to have some rust on it but if your bearing are rusted it is a problem.
It's funny just tonight I completely disassembled an old O.S. .15 Hyper engine that was sitting for 6+ years - it was gummed up badly and covered with sand from running on the beach. (I have pics and vid that I didnt load yet) If your T-15 were mine I would completely disassemble it and clean it up good as new but if you don't know how to do that (you really need a torch to get the bearings out, etc.) you can still clean it up by taking the carb off and spraying some automotive carb cleaner in there, the head and back, that will get the gunk out of the bearings but ideally you want them removed to clean them, but you can still spray it and let it sit then blast it with compressed air and/or automotive brake cleaner, then oil it up with after run oil (auto transmission fluid) I've taken bearings out that were nearly frozen with gunk and let them sit in some carb cleaner and returned them to good as new service. Of course you could just try to fire it up and see what you can get out of it too.
I think that T-15 is a threaded shaft engine and if you were to switch to the G3.0 that is a pilot shaft engine so you need to convert with some parts. (maybe there is also a threaded crank G3.0 I'm not sure) If you have the car I linked below it has 12 tooth CB and they use a needle bearing which is a different set-up than the new MT2's which use 2 regular style bearings in the clutch bell, the bearings are not interchangeable.
It looks like this is the car you have:
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/10401/
It's funny just tonight I completely disassembled an old O.S. .15 Hyper engine that was sitting for 6+ years - it was gummed up badly and covered with sand from running on the beach. (I have pics and vid that I didnt load yet) If your T-15 were mine I would completely disassemble it and clean it up good as new but if you don't know how to do that (you really need a torch to get the bearings out, etc.) you can still clean it up by taking the carb off and spraying some automotive carb cleaner in there, the head and back, that will get the gunk out of the bearings but ideally you want them removed to clean them, but you can still spray it and let it sit then blast it with compressed air and/or automotive brake cleaner, then oil it up with after run oil (auto transmission fluid) I've taken bearings out that were nearly frozen with gunk and let them sit in some carb cleaner and returned them to good as new service. Of course you could just try to fire it up and see what you can get out of it too.
I think that T-15 is a threaded shaft engine and if you were to switch to the G3.0 that is a pilot shaft engine so you need to convert with some parts. (maybe there is also a threaded crank G3.0 I'm not sure) If you have the car I linked below it has 12 tooth CB and they use a needle bearing which is a different set-up than the new MT2's which use 2 regular style bearings in the clutch bell, the bearings are not interchangeable.
It looks like this is the car you have:
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/10401/
T3.0 is a threaded version of the G3.0
if you usea G3.0 you need HPI parts A990(clutch bell), B021(bearings), 86706(clutch nut), 86891(fly wheel), and 86000(G3 motor mount)
I find you pretty much need the HPI parts to make it fit. When I tried putting my G3.0 in my MT I bought a different flywheel than the part number listed just to find out it didn't fit, different bell to find the same, think, an ofna clutch nut just to have to cut down, and wasted some cash on motor mounts that didn't line up to the holes when on the G3. The flywheel I originally boughts diameter was too big and it hit the gear box for the center gear.
A T3.0 should fit right in the same spot as the T-15 and use the same parts.
if you usea G3.0 you need HPI parts A990(clutch bell), B021(bearings), 86706(clutch nut), 86891(fly wheel), and 86000(G3 motor mount)
I find you pretty much need the HPI parts to make it fit. When I tried putting my G3.0 in my MT I bought a different flywheel than the part number listed just to find out it didn't fit, different bell to find the same, think, an ofna clutch nut just to have to cut down, and wasted some cash on motor mounts that didn't line up to the holes when on the G3. The flywheel I originally boughts diameter was too big and it hit the gear box for the center gear.
A T3.0 should fit right in the same spot as the T-15 and use the same parts.
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From: Ventura,
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ORIGINAL: ShoestringRacer
yeah you've got some rust on that crankshaft. That is really no big deal but if there is rust at the crankpin and it makes the conrod not move smooth it is a problem. And your bearings have to be free spinning. With the cooling head off does the crank spin nice and free? It looks like the engine could be a little gummed up if it has been sitting long it may not spin free nice and smooth. it isnt uncommon for a crank to have some rust on it but if your bearing are rusted it is a problem.
It's funny just tonight I completely disassembled an old O.S. .15 Hyper engine that was sitting for 6+ years - it was gummed up badly and covered with sand from running on the beach. (I have pics and vid that I didnt load yet) If your T-15 were mine I would completely disassemble it and clean it up good as new but if you don't know how to do that (you really need a torch to get the bearings out, etc.) you can still clean it up by taking the carb off and spraying some automotive carb cleaner in there, the head and back, that will get the gunk out of the bearings but ideally you want them removed to clean them, but you can still spray it and let it sit then blast it with compressed air and/or automotive brake cleaner, then oil it up with after run oil (auto transmission fluid) I've taken bearings out that were nearly frozen with gunk and let them sit in some carb cleaner and returned them to good as new service. Of course you could just try to fire it up and see what you can get out of it too.
I think that T-15 is a threaded shaft engine and if you were to switch to the G3.0 that is a pilot shaft engine so you need to convert with some parts. (maybe there is also a threaded crank G3.0 I'm not sure) If you have the car I linked below it has 12 tooth CB and they use a needle bearing which is a different set-up than the new MT2's which use 2 regular style bearings in the clutch bell, the bearings are not interchangeable.
It looks like this is the car you have:
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/10401/
yeah you've got some rust on that crankshaft. That is really no big deal but if there is rust at the crankpin and it makes the conrod not move smooth it is a problem. And your bearings have to be free spinning. With the cooling head off does the crank spin nice and free? It looks like the engine could be a little gummed up if it has been sitting long it may not spin free nice and smooth. it isnt uncommon for a crank to have some rust on it but if your bearing are rusted it is a problem.
It's funny just tonight I completely disassembled an old O.S. .15 Hyper engine that was sitting for 6+ years - it was gummed up badly and covered with sand from running on the beach. (I have pics and vid that I didnt load yet) If your T-15 were mine I would completely disassemble it and clean it up good as new but if you don't know how to do that (you really need a torch to get the bearings out, etc.) you can still clean it up by taking the carb off and spraying some automotive carb cleaner in there, the head and back, that will get the gunk out of the bearings but ideally you want them removed to clean them, but you can still spray it and let it sit then blast it with compressed air and/or automotive brake cleaner, then oil it up with after run oil (auto transmission fluid) I've taken bearings out that were nearly frozen with gunk and let them sit in some carb cleaner and returned them to good as new service. Of course you could just try to fire it up and see what you can get out of it too.
I think that T-15 is a threaded shaft engine and if you were to switch to the G3.0 that is a pilot shaft engine so you need to convert with some parts. (maybe there is also a threaded crank G3.0 I'm not sure) If you have the car I linked below it has 12 tooth CB and they use a needle bearing which is a different set-up than the new MT2's which use 2 regular style bearings in the clutch bell, the bearings are not interchangeable.
It looks like this is the car you have:
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/10401/
How to i check if the crankpin is rusted? and what is the crankpin, anyways? :/
Also, sould Ibe able to take the pull start from my f.storm's g3.0 off and put it on the t-15? And if it will fit, would simply trying to start it be a way of telling if it's toast or not? Like if it doesn't start then it's too rusted, or could it be rusted and still start?
And you said to spay it with carb cleaner. I don't have that, but i do have break cleaner. Would spaying break cleaner in the engine help to clean it out, too?
ORIGINAL: PreyForTomorrow
Also, sould I be able to take the pull start from my f.storm's g3.0 off and put it on the t-15? And if it will fit, would simply trying to start it be a way of telling if it's toast or not? Like if it doesn't start then it's too rusted, or could it be rusted and still start?
Also, sould I be able to take the pull start from my f.storm's g3.0 off and put it on the t-15? And if it will fit, would simply trying to start it be a way of telling if it's toast or not? Like if it doesn't start then it's too rusted, or could it be rusted and still start?
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From: .....,
NY
Im not sure on the brake cleaner vs the carb cleaner. You would have to check the can and see what it says.
If you are looking to check the pinch on the engine, just put the glow plug in and try turning the flywheel by hand. It its hard to turn at the top of the stroke then the engine still has good compression. If the inside doesnt show any obvious signs of rust then put some after run oil in (aka marvel mystery oil) and lube it up good. Close it up and try starting it. If the engine is shot its not going to get any worse. If it has good compression it should fire up for you.
If you are looking to check the pinch on the engine, just put the glow plug in and try turning the flywheel by hand. It its hard to turn at the top of the stroke then the engine still has good compression. If the inside doesnt show any obvious signs of rust then put some after run oil in (aka marvel mystery oil) and lube it up good. Close it up and try starting it. If the engine is shot its not going to get any worse. If it has good compression it should fire up for you.
ORIGINAL: KeithjV
backup I love the lights on that truck. How did you wire up the battery? I can see the plug but I was curious how you mounted the pack.
backup I love the lights on that truck. How did you wire up the battery? I can see the plug but I was curious how you mounted the pack.
Thanks i have a 3.7v lipo for the lights from a crashed mini-heli works fine and is very light i have the lights connected in parallel so if one blowns or brokes with crashes the others still works i have posted pictures time ago in this thread, i have modified the mt2 g.30 stock suspension with stiff springs and 60wt oil and put low profile street tires with 47/17 gears so i can race on pavement =D


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NY
That little silver thing in the zip tie is the battery? That can power all those leds? Whats the purple box on the right side of the picture?
Yeah that's the lipo battery, big change from the 3xAA i was using when i started the project, this lipo can stay in there all the time and i can use the ligths for more than 8 hours with a single 20min charge, the purple box is the venom on board temp gauge that i bought after i blown the original engine and the orange one is the failsafe =]

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From: Frederick, CO
I was looking through some threads and saw this one..
Holly Cow!
20064 post, and over 593,000 views!
dang you guys must love this truck..
whay do you all love this truck?
Holly Cow!
20064 post, and over 593,000 views!
dang you guys must love this truck..
whay do you all love this truck?
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From: .....,
NY
lol Hey srt10. Its a good solid 1/10th scale thats been around for a number of years now. Its a good starter truck for people just getting into nitro and its easily upgradeable to be a racing truck as well. A number of guys have done all kinds of mods to these trucks to run them as off road racers, on road racers and everything in between. Some have modded them to run in 2WD and some have converted them to electric. I think more then anything its the guys that have contributed to this thread that have kept it going for so long. There is no bashing or flaming and everyone genuinely tries to help each other out. We've been fortunate not to have any people like vertigo flame posting in here and hopefully it stays that way. So if you ever want to add a 1/10th to your 1/5th collection we'd be more then happy to have you here.
ORIGINAL: srt10
I was looking through some threads and saw this one..
Holly Cow!
20064 post, and over 593,000 views!
dang you guys must love this truck..
whay do you all love this truck?
I was looking through some threads and saw this one..
Holly Cow!
20064 post, and over 593,000 views!
dang you guys must love this truck..
whay do you all love this truck?

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From: Frederick, CO
ORIGINAL: KeithjV
lol Hey srt10. Its a good solid 1/10th scale thats been around for a number of years now. Its a good starter truck for people just getting into nitro and its easily upgradeable to be a racing truck as well. A number of guys have done all kinds of mods to these trucks to run them as off road racers, on road racers and everything in between. Some have modded them to run in 2WD and some have converted them to electric. I think more then anything its the guys that have contributed to this thread that have kept it going for so long. There is no bashing or flaming and everyone genuinely tries to help each other out. We've been fortunate not to have any people like vertigo flame posting in here and hopefully it stays that way. So if you ever want to add a 1/10th to your 1/5th collection we'd be more then happy to have you here.
lol Hey srt10. Its a good solid 1/10th scale thats been around for a number of years now. Its a good starter truck for people just getting into nitro and its easily upgradeable to be a racing truck as well. A number of guys have done all kinds of mods to these trucks to run them as off road racers, on road racers and everything in between. Some have modded them to run in 2WD and some have converted them to electric. I think more then anything its the guys that have contributed to this thread that have kept it going for so long. There is no bashing or flaming and everyone genuinely tries to help each other out. We've been fortunate not to have any people like vertigo flame posting in here and hopefully it stays that way. So if you ever want to add a 1/10th to your 1/5th collection we'd be more then happy to have you here.
ORIGINAL: srt10
I was looking through some threads and saw this one..
Holly Cow!
20064 post, and over 593,000 views!
dang you guys must love this truck..
whay do you all love this truck?
I was looking through some threads and saw this one..
Holly Cow!
20064 post, and over 593,000 views!
dang you guys must love this truck..
whay do you all love this truck?
Right on man, thank you!
I did just get back into the nitro scene with a Losi 8ight-T last week..

but a 10th 4wd nitro would be sick
And the flame thing sucks! so annoying..
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From: .....,
NY
Now if the weather would just cooperate we could start running these trucks again. Been too cold lately. Im afraid the plastics will just shatter in these temps.
ORIGINAL: KeithjV
lol Hey srt10. Its a good solid 1/10th scale thats been around for a number of years now. Its a good starter truck for people just getting into nitro and its easily upgradeable to be a racing truck as well. A number of guys have done all kinds of mods to these trucks to run them as off road racers, on road racers and everything in between. Some have modded them to run in 2WD and some have converted them to electric.
lol Hey srt10. Its a good solid 1/10th scale thats been around for a number of years now. Its a good starter truck for people just getting into nitro and its easily upgradeable to be a racing truck as well. A number of guys have done all kinds of mods to these trucks to run them as off road racers, on road racers and everything in between. Some have modded them to run in 2WD and some have converted them to electric.

and it was my 1st truck (well technically it started life as a MT1 but hell its pretty much the same thing)
Now trying to figure out what to do next to it.
and yes the weather SUCKS
kinda mad woke up to it snowing was planning on testing my new 8.5t brushless system I flung in my Brama 10b last night (checking if it worked made all the tires fly off after a split second of full throttle while being held off ground). Can't wait till it warms up so I can shelve the electrics and have some real fun with my nitros. God do I miss the smell and sound of nitros

Also the snow is powdery and my waterproof Tamiya buggy keeps getting stuck on snow drifts cause it can't get traction (it has the original stock MT1 dirt hawg tires on it)

Also I find the whole stadium truck forum pretty helpful and barely see any trolling or flaming. I guess its due to the low visitation trolls don't bother coming here cause there is no one to really feed them like on the busier boards like the general one.
ORIGINAL: hpidude101
i would be careful if you damage the lipo cell it would spark /get verry hot and flame and stuff and ignite your fuel
i would be careful if you damage the lipo cell it would spark /get verry hot and flame and stuff and ignite your fuel
Oh yes lipo batteries can explode but i have never received any damage in this area from crashes so i think is a safe place maybe i will move it to the other side away from tank, of course i will keep my car's extinguisher at hand
ORIGINAL: KeithjV
backups that battery is from a micro heli?
backups that battery is from a micro heli?
Yes its from a mini 3-channel infrared heli and i use the original controller to charge the battery



