Ahh. OK so much for that thought. Is there an air leak somewhere on the engine? Carb, back plate?
Yes, Z.28R. I love it. Lots of power and easy to tune. The new Z.30 looks like a great engine too.

I completly sealed the engine before I put it in I dont know what the issue would be maybe I did something wrong when I ported and polished it...... Oh well I think I want to put the lrp in it its just weird how the 28's have more power then the 36 that comes in it. Just about everyone I know said that the 5.9 is garbage and that they never do wheelies but mine does wheelies on command lol tons of low end power

Oh I forgot you ported it. Maybe..
You wont be disappointed in the LRP engines. They have a ton of power right out of the box.

I plan on putting an LRP in my winter savage project as well. An all FLM mid tank chassis.
Eminent - sorry to hear about your situation, hard to say what happened.

What are you guys using for temp guages? Here's a vid of the savage from yesterday wheelies on comand. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hfmvr-zAYqU

It doesn't sound bad and if it was running excessively hot it should sound bad. It looks like there was a smoke trail..... Did it run this way right before you noticed the temperature being high? Does it run now? I don't think porting it so early was a good idea. Maybe you can get the sleeve repinched and get going again really cheaply?


I use the blue duratrax temperature gauge.

Im using a duratrax gauge too

Yeah thats the way it runs all the time but it seems hotter then all my other engines. As far as performance goes it runs great all the time but just hot..... I think the pinch is gone because it was cool outside and the temps were really low during break in I should have covered the head with some metal tape or something.

How high did the temps get?

according to the guage they were under 210 but when you do the spit test it was boiling off the water faster then you could put it on.

That doesnt make sense

No it doesnt but when I run my picco I tune it by ear and overall feel of the engine more then anything and when I take its temp it says that its 170 I dont get it. I used to run the mip onboard temp guage but they always quit working I went through 3 of them they always seemed accurate. Is there a better diff for the savage xl or do they already have the good diffs? I blew both diffs yesterday lol..... good thing its fall and snow is going to fly right away ill have lots of time to fix them up.

I want to port my k4.6, but I have never done it before. Can anyone give some pointers on what dremil bit to use and how much I should port.

Hey guys a little off topic. I was trying to post an ad to sell some brand new MT2 alloy parts and and a brand new HPi T-15 motor. It did not have anything specific for parts, so is anyone interested in the following lot

Purple alloy rear arm set
Purple alloy front arm set
Purple alloy Steering assembly
Purple Alloy Front Damper Mount
Purple Alloy Front bearing C-Hub Set
Purple Alloy Knuckle Arm Set
New T-15 Engine.

I am not selling it piece by piece. Im selling it as a lot because I am offering free shipping. All of the alloy parts are GPM parts and all are sealed never opened. The motor was taken out of my old MT2 and never used since I put an 18ss motor in. My 18ss is still going strong after a few years. If interested its all going for $85.00. Send me an email ([email protected]) or since I dont want to piss anyone off tell me where to post these items in the appropriate ad location.

Angel

eminent HPI just released upgraded diffs for the savage that have been getting pretty good reviews. You could also go with the CEN diffs.

orlando if you change your mind about separating the parts I might be interested in the the knuckles and C-hubs.

Thats cool man I might have to look into that. I take it they will be listed on there site?

Dudes,

A friend's MT2 is refusing to engage 2nd gear. I took the tranny out, opened the 2nd clutch and cleaned it, and it seems to be all OK. After that, it shifted to 2nd exactly 3 times, and got stuck on 1st gear again. I even spilled a little WD-40 on the 2nd clutch to be sure everything is moving free, but no results.


Any advices?

When you say it shifted to 2nd 3 times, do you mean during the same time running it? Or 3 separate times/days?
When you cleaned the clutch was there a lot of dirt stuck in it? Were the springs in good shape? They sell a rebuild kit for the 2 speed.

It shifted 3 times in the beginning of the same test run. The clutch was pretty much clean, I just disassembled it to confirm that nothing was wrong. Everything was in good shape, and I could lift the clutch actuator easily.

I was thinking, could it be an issue with the one-way bearing not releasing the 1st gear from the shaft?

Thanks.

First gear doesnt actually release. The clutch just engages 2nd gear. The engine was getting up to RPM right?

Maybe the 'spring' that engages second gear is worn but looks good? I agree, it could be that the one way bearing doesn't release. I would install the rebuild kit.

The OWB doesnt effect that. First gear is spinning all the time

Doesn't first gear spin all the time and its a matter of the one way bearing being engaged or not depending on if the second gear clutch engages? There is only one part that can be the problem then, the one way bearing. Its obviously engaging so the problem must be it disengaging. Am I nuts? Maybe I don't understand the problem.

lol. 2nd gear engages when the rpms cause the clutch to engage. It has to be that the clutch isnt engaging. Either the ears are sticking or the RPMs arent getting high enough

Which brings me to my first suggestion that the 'spring' on the second gear isn't right so it doesn't engage? Assuming it is set properly, of course.