We all have been there and will again.

yep lol

what are some good A/T tires and any piggyback shocks fit the front. the rear are about 3/4 inch compressed but look like may work for me ill update on the handling tomorrow

I was going to say something as it looks like your suspension is middy stiff and it sure jacks up the rear. I know people that are running those shocks on Savage’s. I would like to have a set of 8 if I could find a good price on them to try on my Savage. So far those are the only piggyback shocks I have heard are much good. I know Integy makes some but I will not run anything they sell. All so I have heard horror stories about them on a Savage.

one of my friends told me to put a .18 in my mt will it be much faster and about how much are they??[8D]

and i was wondering what are the top speeds you guys are getting out of these?and how fast should my .12 go?

First off what engine do you have now and it depends on what .18 you put in. If you have the stock T15 any engine would be better. Sorry not a fan of the T15. If you want to put a .18 in there are two I recommend but depends on how much you want to spend! All so if you have the RTR you will end up having to up grade the drive train. Here are the two engines I recommend. I have a TZ in mine.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGP7&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHLV9&P=0

There are many variables in how fast it will go! Like what pipe, what gearing and so on are you going to run! All so you can only go so fast and still control it.

There is a say {speed cost money how fast do you want to go}

Being I race on an off road track all out top speed does not win races! Handling and the driver does! Yes speed helps but you can only go so fast and still have control. Like I said speed cost money how fast do you want to go???????? $100 fast or $1.000 fast? You all so will need to spend a good bit in updating the drive train to stand the extra power.

I would estimate your average MT will go between 30 and 40 MPH. Maybe a little more. Now keep in mind to scale that is 300 to 400 MPH!

alrighty i would like to stiffen up my chassis seems like the rear flexes alot i have carbon fiber shock mounts those help alot but i want to stiffen from front to rear got any ideas how big of a cooling area did u guys cut out of your body pics would help alot i think i overheated the engine today i got done and it was steaming and there was no water in sight soo..... oh yea do you run a fuel filter do i need one will it acutally help and what ones are good thanks

This is a picture before I put my TZ in but you can see my cooling holes. Yes I run a fuel filter but all so there is one in my fuel tank as well. I all so unless we have a heat that last longer then one tank of fuel blow off around my filter cap on my fuel tank with my air compressor before refueling.

Which dish rims will work for the Hpi mt2? Preferably white, or some neon color... I wan't to mount some paddle tires on the dish rims..

I got them cheap of fleabay brandnew [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-CEN-GENESIS-LE-UPPER-SHOCKS-BIG-BORE-SUSPENSION_W0QQitemZ250029276266QQihZ015QQcategory Z44028QQcmdZViewItem]click me genesis shocks[/link]

has any one tried to fit [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLGG0&P=ML]this 72 chevy body by proline[/link] or [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJU9&P=]this other 72 body by parma[/link] i just think 72 chevys are so sweet

HI guys, i just recently bought a rtr mt2. went to my local track and promptly stripped out the bottom steering knuckle screws. so i bought the alum ones from new era along with the c hubs.

http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2635
and
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2129

so im putting them on and i cant get them to work right, if i tighten down the 2 screws all the way i am unable to turn the steering knuckle. if i dont tighten them down all the way, the scews work themselves loose after just a few turns of the knuckle. im using blue locktite(threadlocker) and am using the two little "bushings" that were in the stock plastic hubs. am i missing something here? should i use some red threadlocker and leave it just a bit loose so that it actually turns? i am afraid that if i tighten them down all the way my servo will not be strong enough to make the wheels turn.

thanks for your help[sm=confused.gif]

Are you using the bushings that the screws go through? Do not use red loctite on RC trucks use blue red is way to strong for these small screws!

yes, i am using the stock metal bushings that go through the c hub. it allmost seems like they aren't quite long enough, i was thinking that bending the c hub together just a bit would fix it but i dont want to screw up my nice shiny $24 c hubs...

If they’re to short I do not see where bending is going to help. I can only guess since I do not have them in front of me but either I would try a new set of bushings or relive the C hubs a little. I have the alloy knuckles but am running the stock C hubs. I try to keep my MT as light as I can.

it seems as if there's a little too much room between the knuckle and the c hub, so if i bent the ends of the c closer together, there wouldnt be as much space. i was thinking either that, or stick a small washer of some sort in there.

when i tighten the screws down completly i cant turn the knuckle at all, if i dont tighten them down completly, they loosen up allmost imediately.

are the scerws supposed to pivot with the knuckle or stay put with the c hub?

Should be the same for Alum.

thats exactly how i have them setup. im stumped...

can u back um off like 1/8 of a turn with locktight and they still come out ? if so that sounds like a manufacturing defect



and on a side note what fail safe should i run ?

They should turn with the knuckle in the c-hub they are like bushings. If you bent the c-hub then where you put the bushings will no longer be parallel with each other. A washer sounds like it should work if you can get them in there. The reason I suggested new bushing is I have seen the ends get smashed from over tighten and this would make the bushing shorter.
Good Luck

If you tighten them up and then back them off they are not going to do there job like they are suppose to. About the failsafe do not use a Duratrax as I and others I know have had a problem with them! Either Venom or Ofna. I no longer use them as my radio has them built in.

so with the failsafe i read u plug in between your throttle servo and the reciever will they work with the servo or what im a total noob with failsafe haha anyone run paddles on the mt2 i want to but i heard youll be stripping spurs burning slipper cluthc and breaking dogbones sooooo.... and whats the difference between odonellel sport and race blend fuels