John that mount looks nice and neat but Im betting its going to flex under the torque. You need something heavier or thats going to mount to the chassis as well as the center diff.

Yeah the more I looked at it the less I liked it so I added a brace.

That looks much better. Time to get it running....

I got her all finished up and running today. I'm pretty happy with it, I can't wait to solder a Deans onto that 6S and see what she can do as it's pretty strong with a 3S. I've got it geared pretty high so I'll really need to watch my temps but I'm only planning on doing a pass at a time wuth the 6S. It's super stiff with the braces I made and everything from a 2S to the 6S fits in nice and snug.

I would consider adding braces from the front shock tower to the rear shock tower. I had to do that on my EJato, other wise would fold in half. Or you can find something to use as an upper deck.

It looks good John. See if you can post some video of the runs

looks nice
way neater than when I converted some a year or so ago.

anyone have a suggestion for a new radio/receiver that i can drop into my mt2.i'll eventually upgrade the servos as well but for now I want to get a radio system that doesn't use crystals but don't want to spend a ton. the mt2 is my only car so I'll only need a 2ch 2.4ghz radio/receiver. any suggestions would be much appreciated

This controller has gotten some very good reviews. I dont have any first hand experience with it though. I use Spektrum radios with my cars
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-c...ProductReviews

got that one it has one issue the EXP doesn't work
not a big issue in my book never knew it didn't work till someone brought it up seeing I've never used EXP on my one that does have it
The $20 extremely basic radio (GT2) works pretty good too. I like the original GT3 more though (costs $60 though)

i was looking on ebay and saw alot of traxxas 2.4 controllers + receivers for sale that were taken out of new traxxas cars, very cheap. i liked my old tmaxx remote enough to consider this option. would there be any problems with the HPI servos working with the traxxas receiver?

in a servos eyes a radios a radio don't matter who makes it for the most part
some ESC's have issues with certain radios though. Like for example my GT3 will not work with a Castle Creation 1/8th scale Mamba Monster ESC no matter what, but the GT3b, and GT2 work perfectly fine.

Man, thats one good looking MT2. Kind of makes me want to get one again! What kind of speeds are you geting out of it?

You still got the vendetta? how did it turn out?

I'm a little bummed. I strapped in my 6S battery yesterday and did a couple runs in front of my house. After the first run I felt the motor and ESC and they were barely warm, so I went for it. It felt like it was kind of cogging or stuttering when I had it wide open on the first pass, and it did the same thing on the next pass so I brought it in. As I was letting it roll towards me the ESC (a new MMP) started shooting smoke out. I went to pull the battery plug and the wires came right out of the ESC, it melted the solder on the wires.
I'm still new to the lipo thing and I probably did something dumb here, but the ESC is rated for a 6S so it should have lasted for a couple runs?
The lipo is a Turnigy 4000mah 6S 40-50C, and the motor is a Novak 10.5 turn brushless.
I need to find a good setup and do some speed runs!

As far as the Vendetta, it's been set aside since I toasted the electronics in that one. All that building and I used it one time and got into the brushless conversion on my MT2. I'll get it going again soon, work has just been really overwhelming lately.

How's your RC18?

how many KV is the motor(or was)
6S is for 1800kv motors if the novak was around 4000kv(like a few 10.5 turn motors) I'm shocked the magnets didn't fly off the rotor. Higher the KV you need to use lower cell counts in BL. Like a 4000kv motor should not be used on anything higher than 2S, a 3500 could do 3S, etc

Definitely too high of a voltage.  I ran a 10.5T ballistic motor on 4s for about two packs once and that was it.  I can't imaging running that high of a kv motor  on 6s.

Hate to do it, but I am selling my MT2.

If interested email me at [email protected]

Here is a brief description:

This truck was bought brand new about a year ago and has not been used much at all.

I have installed the following upgrades:
-OS .18 CV-RX motor
-HPI aluminum engine mounts
-THS tuned pipe
-HPI carbon fiber upper deck
-HPI carbon fiber front shock tower
-HPI carbon fiber rear shock tower
-HPI locking hex hub
-Ofna hump pack battery

Those upgrades cost me $350 alone, plus $340 for the truck, for a total of $690.

The OS motor has not even been fully broken in yet. I have ran only 4 tanks through it.

The truck is in excellent condition, no damage, no broken/missing parts. This truck has never seen dirt, driven on pavement only! This is basically a new, upgraded truck for 1/2 the price.

I will also in throw in the stock parts, except the engine. I no longer have the stock engine.

Since I run Spektrum, I will take out my receiver, so you will need your own radio and receiver.

Since this truck is in such great condition and since the motor has barely seen fuel, I will start with an asking price of $400 shipped.

Any questions, feel free to PM me.

Well i think im going to sell 2 of my mt2 as is $150 stock t15 in one and probly the trx 2.5 in another

I just got a os.18cv-rx I'm havin a problem with the collet and flywheel they dont fit snug on the crankshaft was wondering if anyone could tell me what collet and/or flywheel I would need thanks

Did you remove the spacer that comes on the OS engines? Take a picture of what youre working with if you can

keith jv could you help me out with mounting a lrp z28 pullstart version on a ttr st1 thanks email me at [email protected]

Anyone know where I can get a new rear diff, they not listed on the tower hobbies website? Or is there a good upgrade from the stock diffs? I think I have just shreded mine, haven't pulled it down yet but I pretty sure I have broken some gears.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXJYM2&P=7

These are the HPI HD ones and they are the ticket. Iput these in my MT2 and shimmed them up nice and snug and never stripped them with an 18TZ, and still going strong with my brushless conversion.

Excellent thanks for the link. I've pulled the diff appart and it's the bevel gears that are destroyed, the crown and pinion are still good but I may as well replace them while its all apart. Is it worth doing the front diff as well?

I would definitely replace both the ring and pinion gears as both of the stock ones are made of the softer metal. It's pricey, but I would also recommend doing both the front and rear. If one hasn't gone yet then it's just a matter of time before it does.