Hi, New to Nitro cars, have been using Electric for a while before, so was wondering if a few quick questions of mine could be answered..?

1. I have bought a secondhand Rush and am quite happy with the fact that the motor starts EVERY time within three pulls , which amazed me as you tend to be told all sorts of stories about Nitro motors and how "difficult" they are. My question is how long does the motor usually take to get up to full working speed ? Mine starts perfectly , idles fine , but is really slow until after at least 5 minutes "warm up", after which you can physically hear the motor is running well. Is this normal ..? (standard motor)

2. As I have spent a small fortune on all sorts of hop-ups on my previous car , what would you recommend as the "Quick Wins" I should put on this standard car to get the best performance, handling without breaking the bank !!

Thanks for the help

Tommy - got my undertrays this morning. Very happy with them. top packing too - no damage. Will post a few picks if i decide to paint mine. Thanks again

TonyT[sm=RAINFRO.gif]

I meant cut the nub off the motor plate, lol.

seen, well i still stand by cutting the top deck nub

YOU'RE WRONG[:@]
lol

i u say so. i still stand by the fact that its an easier job to do, and wont look like a bodge job

Cheers for the comment Tony, would like to see some pics...

Hey guys, I should be getting an HPI Rush I think the guy ripped me off. If I get the refund I'm going back to electric.[:-]

Hi, i am selling my rush evo to further my 1/10 touring car racing! Does anyone want to buy it? I will think about reasonable offers,but i have spent alot on this baby!
It comes with.....
Everything the rush evo comes with.
Rush evo... ofcourse
Dirt hawg tyres and chrome rims, only been used 3 times for light bashing. cost me £35
Thundertiger 2 stage air filter. cost me £4.99
K&N air filter, it is new and cost me £10 but needs the fitting adapter about 4.00 on ebay!
Purple shock capped shocks! Caps cost me £5.00
Origanal shell.
hummer shell, but paint has flaked off and been cut so the exhaust doesnt rub, but still good for bashing or even re painting cost me £17
Futuba fail safe only used twice, cost me £15.00
venom yellow fuel tube upgrade cost me £1.00
fuel filter cost me £3.00
Glow plug spanner cost me £3.00
Fuel bottle(not fuel) cost me £3.00
Exhaust deflector cost me £3.00
CUSTOM MADE FRONT WHEEL ADAPTORS, YOU CANT BUY THESE!....THEY ENABLE YOU TO USE THE REAR HEX WHEELS ON THE FRONT!
Also cable ties on heatsink to protect the head!
has only had about 1/2 a gallon through it of 10% bluethunder, but would be even better on a 20% fuel!
All working and ready to continue being hopped up!
make me a reasonable offer!
If i like the price, then we could come to some arrangement(using paypal, or ebay!)
i might even leave a bit of fuel in the tank for you!
e-mail is [email protected] #
Cheers!

just ask for pics!

st driva, wots been up? that seller is an @R$£. how longs it been so far since u bought the truck?

been about 7 months, but it is hard to keep alot of cars going at once and whats up with all the swearing?

Tommy, Pics of my painted undertray


TonyT

Hey T, thats some nice work on the undertray, what paint did you use ? I used some white Plsti-Kote Spray Paint on mine as it was the only arcylic paint i had, but because it gives a plasticky finish it doesn't flake / sractch so easily, but, takes a while to dry even with v light coats.

Nice work let me know how you get on with it.

i think u misread racer. i was talkin to st driva, about his problem ebay seller. not you mate [&:]

My new Body, not sure if I will use it all the time, but makes the truck look very different to the stock body.

HPI Blue rear springs
HPI Blue front springs
25w Shock Oil
Fuel pipe bump stops at the bottom of the shocks
JESpares Screw Kit
HPI 2 x Slipper Clutch (wish I had read this forum sooner!)
Dynamite Failsafe
HPI Fuel Pipe Head protector
RS4 Racing Tank
Fastrax Fuel Filter and and Primer
HPI High Performance Air Filter
HPI Racing Clutch
Needle bearing Replacement in clutch with 3xTamiya bearings

hey guys, will the HPI jeep warngler body fit on the rush evo, thanks ( ive posted this outside the thread but it hasn't been answer, so i thought i'd try in this thread, so please dnt have a go at me lol )

Is there a good website or even a book that gives you a step by step on the ins and outs of this. I am 100% new and getting 100% frustrated with this. I have broken it in, now when I start it the wheels spin, I don't know how to adjust this, I know nothing about the carb (which screw is which) and I have also smoked a spur gear and slipper pad. This is getting to be a great start.

I cant seem to find the right cvd set for the rush. I bought a set for the rear of the mt2 but i'm not sure if it's right or not. I dont wanna open it until I know. How long should the cvd bone be compared to the regular bone? I think I read that the cvd kit for the rs4 mt will fit but I'm not positive.

lunny, the smple answer is no. the body you are referring to is designed for the savage, which is a HUGE truck in comparison to the rush. even if you managed to get it on by drilling the holes in the right position for the rush, youd have too much excess on the front, rear sides and undercarrage of the rush. it aint worth getting. buy a shell for the mt2 or rush instead. and dont feel put off to ask any more questions, that is what this forum is for

cheers for the reply m8, it's just ive seen a few bodies woth bodies for the savage and stuff on evos, and wasn't sure if they did mods or not, thanks

So far this has been the most frustrating hobby I have ever seen. I cannot get the throttle linkage correct without killing the engine, if I do, it will not brake properly. Now when I start the engine it goes almost wide open. I do not know what I am doing wrong. HELP

hi

Check the little brass nut on the carb to throttle arm. mine had worked loose, just enough to allow the barrel of the carb to be up set - if you went to full throttle it would be ok then would scream when you tried to brake etc

2 min fix - remove fuel tank and get at it with a small socket driver.


Regards TonyT

Hi,

I was wondering about you guys who have had the Rush or Rush Evo for a while have some views on which "normal wear" parts would be useful to have in spare for these trucks? I was going to order some stuff from Tower soon. I've just bought a Rush Evo and i see some posts here about things which can be done. Btw. is the needle bearing on the clutch possible to change to ball bearings from Tamiya? Which bearings whould that be?

normal wear parts, hmm? tbh i cant really think of any on the rush that wear out quick enough to be 'normal wear'. i spose if you want to buy new parts id suggest buy thing that break the quickest, such as shock towers made of aluminium, get the metal disk hub, a new slipper clutch pad (those seem to go fairly quickly), new set of tyres if youve go enough cash, alu or spare plastic wheel hexes cos ive noticed they strip easily, racing fuel tank as the stock one supposedly leaks, titanium or spare stock turnbuckles as the stocks bend easily, a failsafe to help prevent you having a runaway crash in the first place, spare spur gear, and spare clutch bell. not ALL of these are neccessary, but if you are planning on geting new parts, take these into consideration

Thanks alot samisnake, there you have some things for me to look into. I was wondering the clutch shoes, bell and spur gear aren't those the parts which wear continuesly doesn't matter what? If so i guess i will get them first. I was also wondering if i was going to invest in a rotostart or is the pullstart gonna last for a while if used correctly? I do have a set of Yokohama Geolander 2.2 tires which i bought by a mistake for a TLT-1 project. I guess u could use them when the stock ones are out.