Yes, i used the revo pipe that came with my trx 2.5 r that I got off of ebay on my rusty. It actually works really well. you will just need to bend your own moutning rod as the revo mount is on the side of the pipe that the stinger is on rather than on the tip. I just used a peice of rusty brake linkage and bent it by hand so that it drops down under the pipe and sticks up through the retainer hole. If you want I can post a pic once I'm at home.

yes plz cuz i have no idea what you said!! thanks!!!

yeah but i read somewhere online that brand new engines will sometimes get stuck at top dead center....i just had to use needle nose plyers to grip the flywheel and force it so it gets unstuck....hey it worked (btw i checked first to see if it was flooded but it wasnt)....i went out and bought some canned air, denatured alcohol, and some blue krylon plasitc paint.....i took of my front shock tower, and upper chassi, soaked it in denatured alcohol (to get all the grime off), cleaned it with soap and water...dried it with a hair dryer, lightly sanded it, and then sprayed it with the canned air.....i painted it and it looks pretty good..esp with the blue revo head..im gonna try and get some pics of it for you folks to check out.......i got this idea from someone else in one of these threads, but i gotta go now, catcha all later

The wire I have holding it on is just a spare rusty brake linkage that I bent by hand and covered in shrink tube.

I hope the pics help.

hey what do you use to start it??

I use a roto-start on both my rusty and my t-maxx. It's extremely nice. Only thing that weighs less is a closed backplate and bumpstart setup. You do have to carry a rotostart, but it weighs less than a bumpstarter. Probably my favorite upgrade on both vehicles.

nice set up i like the scratches on the chassie

shuttlex if the engine is brand new and hasnt been broken in yet im going to guess that it got stuck because the tolerences arnt meshed yet, the piston and sleeve have not ground themselvs down (so to speak) so they fit together nicly, at tdc there is the most amount of contact between them and this is why it got stuck there, again this is just me guessing, it doesnt sound like its too much to worry about unless it starts doing it after the engine is broken in.

nice rusty tommythecat.... does it pop whelies really easily with the revo engine? i have the same engine in mine but my truck is setup for onroad.... Trbo, yes it is all broken in now and it doesnt do it anymore, yeah i just had to brake it in and get the parts used to eachother[&:]

I put a 5 cell flat pack up front and it keeps the front end glued down unless im driving over bumps or downhill. It still lifts the front end when I hop on the throttle traveling downhill, but I can live with that.

is there a roto start for the rusty?? hey another thing is that how hard is it to build your own truck??

I have the t-maxx rotostart backplate on my rusty, because I had an extra, and it fits just fine on both the trx 2.5 and the R. You have to angle the starter in to clear the header, but it works just fine.

cool thanks!! hey how hard is it to build your own truck??

depends on what truck and how skilled you are

That is a difficult question to answer. It depends:
build from a kit, from spare parts, from scratch?
are you good at following instructions?
are you mechanically inclined?
are you patient?
are you careful?

The only RC's I've ever put together were old electrics back in the early tamiya days. I have completely dissambled and reassembled both my t-maxx and rusty. So I guess I have a bit of experince, but no experience with modern out of the box kits, so my opinion really isn't all that valid anyway.

one good trick is to find a box of some sort that has many small conpartmenst (a fishing tackle box is good for this) to keep track of all the small parts, Iv had a couple of times when i was taking apart my rusty and should have had somthing like that, i think its still missing a screw somwhere, o well its guna be sold anyway

well i have actually not taken my hole rusty apart but i have taken my engine mount apart and put it back in correctly i think!!

concidering that you cant put it in any other way but correctally id say you did it correctally, Youll probably learn how to take the engine out and get good at it, i did because of the one way, youll learn it just takes time

concidering that you cant put it in any other way but correctaly id say you did it correctaly, Youll probably learn how to take the engine out and get good at it, i did because of the one way, youll learn it just takes time

when i had my friend retuned it and put it in right!!

LOL

Dann

k lets get some thing to talk about the rusty plzz!! thanks!!

heres a questions to create some debate. WHAT IS THE BEST MOTOR FOR THE RUSTY AND WHY? lets here what everyone has to say

big and powerful,

o more specific, depends on what your looking to spend, Im no expert on engines but i like the dynamite engines, most power iv seen for under $100

i would go with the OS engine 18tz for the rusty i personally think that it is a great engine!! just wondering is an hpi monster thing for the savages a good chose for a build it your self??

any more suggestions i have seen alot of people talking about the 0s engines. are they a good dependable engine and do they fit the rusty or require modification? thanks for the input guys