Ref the 1.60 header. I ran the Hatori header in a Focus - it broke after 36 flights. Bought my next headers from Karl Meuller. Many hundreds of flights later, no breaks whatsover, even when a tree stopped my free-flight-Focus. (Failed battery lead).

Have since run Karl's headers with 1.60's in Hydeouts, Temptations etc. All trouble free. I use the ES OS1.40 pipes (All three lengths). The pipe is so light and the header is so srong that I only support the pipe by the neck of the stinger, on a lord mount.

Thanks, I already explored the Karl Meuller header, just give him the specs and he will build it. I heard nothing but good things about his work. He said $40 + shipping, thats a good deal for a custom header. This is probably what I'll do!

What pipe do you recommend for the OS 160, you say use the ES 1.40 pipe all three lengths, which one works best?

I use the Bolly F3A wide gear. I basically cut the gear in the middle. Yes I do use the kit's landing gear plywood plates to build my gear mounting blocks. As I recall, one or two of the screw holes need to be relocated. This is a personal thing, as I have standaridized on my bolt hold down locations. I built my Fantasy stock. The wing tube location is the must do modification for the OS140 or Mintor engines. If you plan to use the OS160 engine, then I would only move the tube back 1/4". I don't have any more OS160 engines. I gave up on getting a reliable throttle response. You may want to check out Bob Pasterello's web site. I believe he has had better luck with the OS160's. The Hatori wrap around header is fairly wide. You will need to carve out the chin cowl and maybe some of the fuse engine compartment area. Bob mentioned he uses another wrap around header that is custom made. As I recall, the header info is on his web site.

Good luck,

Steve

They all work. The longer they are the quieter they get. The short one, (OS 1.40 clone) is just fine.

This is a picture of the Fantasy/Eclipse fuel tank mount bulkheads.

This is a picture of the control horns used. I embed the wood dowels in the control surfaces. Then I set the control surfaces in the styrofoam forms and use a drill press to drill a 1/8" hole. I use 1/8" CF rod and standard Dubro or Goldberg adjustable control horms. After the throws are determined, I simply use thin CA to glue in the CF rods and horns. This is a simple and light weight set-up. Please note the hole in the control horn should be on the hinge centerline. Dubro makes 1/4 scale horns if the horn is too short. Alternate is to offset the servo connections to match the offset on the control horns. The control horns should be spaced equal distance from the hinge centerline for equal tension on the pull-pull cables.

This is a picture of the pull-pull elevator servo installation. I mount the servo side ways to get best alignment and equal servo throws on the up and down side of the elevator. The servo mount is 1/4" glassed end grain balsa on a 1/8" plywood plate. I use #4-40 soc. hd. cap screws and blind nuts with 1/8" ply reinforcements on the pipe floor plate. Check to see if you have pipe floor deflection when using the servo. If yes, then add pipe floor reinforcement near each end of the ply mount.

Steve, do you have a full size template for the tank bulkheads that you made? Looks really nice in the end grain balsa/glass.

Sorry I did not make templates. Maybe on Eclipse #3????????????

Any more progress on Eclipse? I am thinking of purchasing the kit while it is on sale. How would a YS 140FZ work on this model you think?

Thanks
Dave

There are a lot of YS 140 DZ engines on the pattern circuit. I am sure it would be a fine engine for the plane. Good luck. I have slowed up on building my #2 Eclipse. The weather is too nice and would rather fly.

Steve

Steve, Thanks for all of the help on this thread. Just finished mine today. A little heavier than I hoped at 10lb 12oz, but I used the stock landing gear & wing and stab tubes. I moved the wing tube back 1/2" and stab 1/2" down. Set up with std pull-pull rudder and a single elevator servo. JR 8411 elevator and rudder 9411 on ailerons and 537 throttle. 5 cell 1450mah pack w/6v regulator.OS 140 and Bolly MF590. Monokote and PPG paint. Hope to fly this weekend. Thanks again

Nice looking airplane. Good luck this weekend. Hope it flies as good as it looks.

Steve

Great job Chris. Good luck with it. Mike

Well I snuck out and made 2 flights today. Already I can say this is an excellent flying plane. The OS140 is plenty of power, even running it very rich and using a Bolly MF590 muffler not a tuned pipe. For those thinking about buying one at $499 it's a great deal. I highly recommend the mods listed in this thread as far as moving the wing back 1/2" and stab down 1/2". You can definitely get the weight down too by going with the carbon wing tube and carbon landing gear. I have it balanced just aft of the repositioned wing tube, and it needs just a little down elev when inverted. Knife edge seems to be very true and no pitching to the top or belly. Loops and corners need just a touch of right rudder. I may just order another one next week.

It was a nice day to fly. Wait till you get her dialed in. I hope you do well with it man. Mike

Chris,

Glad to see my mods worked out for you. Wish I could get motivated and finish my second Eclipse. I am having too much fun flying the first one. I have more modification pictures I could post if someone has a specific need.

Steve

I put on 3 more flights this weekend. Looks like the cg is a little forward. I have it at 6 5/8" from the leading edge measured at the root, and I need up elev trim for level flt (4 clicks). That also causes it to pull to canopy on vertical down lines. Question for Steve: Where are you flying your cg? Thanks

I am flying my CG between 1/4" behind the center of the wing tube (almost to the rear edge of the wing tube). My Eclipse is perfect on the down lines. Also you may want to check your wing and stab incidences relative to the thrust line.

Steve

Thanks. The pitch on downlines is pretty minor, so I'll raise the wing incidence first to get rid of the up trim before I start moving the battery around.

Hi gang,

I'm looking at the Eclipse as a future project....I've read most of the two threads on this plane here. I'm thinking builders' kit. I'm curious as to the differences between the Fantasy and the Eclipse. I noticed the control surfaces are different and I know the fuses are the same. Any comments?.......I may go electric, not sure yet.

Thanks,
Amir

Amir,

The Eclipse and Fantasy share the same fuse. The Fantasy has counterbalance elevators, wider wings and larger ailerons. The stab is moved foreward approx. 2". The vertical fin is cut down allowing for a larger rudder counter balance. The Eclipse is smoother and locks in better on knife edge, uplines and downlines. I have not flown the Fantasy with the recommended 3D throws. For me the Fantasy is a back-up pattern plane for the Eclipse. Hopefully this fall I can practice some 3D with the Fantasy.

Wish I had the funds. I would like to set up an Eclipse for a electric power plant. I plan to buy another Eclipse this fall.

Steve

Thanks, Steve. I may get one of each, not sure yet. Keep us posted on the Fantasy as you put more flights on it please.

Amir

For those building their Eclipses, here's something to keep in mind. I have been playing w/ the cg on mine and have settled on it at the rear of the wing tube. (about 6 -3/4" from leading edge). This is of course personal taste. This is with the wing moved back 1/2" from stock. With the wing in this position, you can figure every 1/2 ounce in the tail moves the cg back 1/8". Still very happy w/ the way it flies. Thanks again to Steve for all of the tips in this thread.

I finally finished my #2 Eclipse. The CG is 1/4" behind the center of the wing tube. The plane has dual JR DS3421 elevator servos. It came in a tad bit heavier at 10#-5oz. You can not tell any difference in the air. The plane flies every bit as good as my #1. These planes are well worth looking at. Here are a few pictures.

Steve