Nearly all the Comp-ARF kits whistle - especially when rolling. It's the air that runs along the sealed aileron and escapes at the aileron tips.

Rgds,
Mark

Brian -- I used the 3 3/8 spinner from Tru-Turn. Brian you will be amazed at the power of the 1.60. My needle valve is just outside of 1 1/2 turns with this cool weather. I figure once it starts to get warm, I can start to lean it out a bit.

Well mine is ready for flights but wheather here in Fl. does not look good for the weekend so might have to wait another week[&o] Mine came in at 10lb 5oz before the 5.5 oz needed to get cg at 2/3 through the wing tube, again[&o], if I can get my friend to build a new rudder and horz surfaces and get some lighter landing gear and wheel pants this plane would be easy to get at 10lb even. Anyway wanted to try and post some pics, hope they come through. They are of the ladder assem. and the modified rudder

Brian,

So you replaced the tailpost and cut off the leading edge of the rudder and replaced it with a balsa one, correct?

-Derek

One more of the ladder assem. with a little better view, also seeing how I finally can post pics I thought I would show off my ZNline Majestic with flame job. The bottom of the wing and stab are 4 inch checker pattern in neon orange and black on one side and neon green and black on the other, shows up really good until you fly straight and level then the white and black blend in, oh well sure looks good sitting there or hovering.

Yes, that is correct Derek. The original tail post was removed the hard way {thats kinda of a joke but a long story}, but it did make it easy to install the new one. On the rudder I cut at the end of the radi of the leading edge and the former that the original hinges went into was routed out with a dremmel and new balsa leading edge glued in and a bevel sanded on, I just coverd with white monocoat once mounted on plane. Here is a couple more of the Majestic.

Well I screwed up, the one on the right is of the Webra 160 in the Impact.

Guys,

Went round a friend's to see how his Impact was coming along and he had shoved it in the corner ready for the bin!! He has aeropoxied all tubes/anti-rotation pins in for the tailplane and when he re-checked the alignment he found one tailplane side is 0.25 - 0.3 degrees out of alignment with the other. I thought it may have been his incidence meter so I tried mine but found the same.

He is going to do a lot of damage to the fuselage trying to pull the pins etc out and re-align them and as he is 'only' a sport flyer who thought he'd have a go at pattern I tried to tell him not to worry too much about it. He is not going to compete - just wanted to own an F3A type model and fly some basic schedules.

I have to be honest now and say I'm not too sure how severe an affect this will have as a) the incidences on my models are right and b) I haven't flown pattern seriously either to really know if it would be a big detriment.

For those of you that fly pattern do you think he should just leave it and trim it out at the field as per most sport models or will it have a big enough effect on trying to fly some of the more basic pattern schedules that he should grin and bear the pain of trying to rip it all out??

Thanks,
Mark

Mark, what he can do and what I did for a similar issue is to cut the rear socket out of the stab. To do this untape the elevator and you can flip it up to reveal the socket, I was able to free the socket from the tailplane with a dremel bit and exacto. Then cleanup the socket and where it came out of, realign the stab to your desired spot and mark the leading edge on a piece of tape on the fuse. Put the socket on the pin and tack it in place w/ CA (stab in the right spot of course), fill in any voids with balsa. Then use micro balloons and epoxy to permanently mount the socket. The socket in the stab is kind of fragile when you get it out, it will split easily as the carbon fiber is along the axis of the tube only.

Overall this will be easier than removing and replacing the pins from the fuse. Worst case you damage the socket and need to replace that..but you are his rep I assume so can help him out with a new part.

I can get some pictures Monday for you if you want.

If he still wants to toss it....toss it my way.


Brian

Thanks Brian. That was one of the ideas he had but was a bit dejected so couldn't face it

From a flying point of view, if left, d'ya reckon it will it create a dog of a model??

If he does toss it then I'll let ya know

Mark

Brian, this is probably stating the obvious, but I'm doing it since you said your Impact was flight ready.
In the center photo above of your rudder servo, it appears to show the rudder horn screw is missing. Maybe it's just the angle of the shot.

Just thought I'd mention it, in case you hadn't noticed it already. If I'm mistaken, please disregard my butt-in. Better safe than sorry, I always say.


Good luck with the test flights.

Rick

Mark, he will probably carry some aileron trim to correct it. Or I guess he could adjust the elevator to fix it. Its so easy to redo the socket though, 30 minutes or an hour tops. I dont think it would make it a dog, he could fly it that way and fix it later if hes not happy.

I got the first 3 flights in on mine today. It was a bit breezy so I cant say much about the way it flys, straight up and straight down as near as I can tell. No droppping a wing on hard pulls. Squeals in the snaps, funny my Rev Pro doesnt do that. Rudder is very powerful. YS 1.60 has gobs of power.

Thanks Rick, it is there, those Dubro HD horns are kinda deep and the angle of the shot hides it. Thank you for speaking up, it's actually somthing I would do, to much building late at night has caused me problems before and this plane has been cursed from the start. Some haunt you forever and others fall right together.

Brian you missed it yesterday. Got in some good flying at the grass field.

Next weekend hopefully for the maiden flight of the Impact. Grass field will be fine. BTW the W160 is very strong.

matt

Which grass field are you referring to Matt, if I may ask?

One can never have too many places to fly from here in this town.

It's even hard to find an empty park around here to fly my electrics in any more. Who the he** invented soccer anyway?!?!? [:@]

Rick

Im glad the Webra is running good for you Matt. So you went to the grass field, thats great! Were you the only one there? It was pretty windy at my house and it's normally twice as bad at the field.I wish I found the time two get a couple flights in but I had just to much to do. Party was over around 2:00pm and I almost went but it was looking pretty bad by that time. I did manage to fly my foamy a couple times in the back yard. Next Sat. and Sun. are all mine!

Electrick, the field that Matt is referring to is an semi private field in Green Cove Springs, must have a key to get in. Most of the members will let you fly if they are there allready but some will enforce it to members only, It is hit or miss. But a new public field in orange park has just opened up. It is on sleepy hollow rd. off of SR220. It is too small for pattern but sport flying and electrics are fine, if I had to guess I think it will be dominated by electrics before long as there is quite a few electric flyers in OP. Call Orange Park Hobby world on Blanding, those guys can tell you all about it.

Windy as all get out. Right in my face from the north. But I got four in nevertheless, just to make sure the engine would hold settings. It held well during all the rich running, till the tank emptied. The 17x13 is no load for the engine. Needs at least an 18" or bigger. I have a 19x14 which should tame the beast. Or about a 17x12 or 17x13 3 blade would be great but I don't think APC makes one. Maybe make one from 17x13N 2 blade props.

Matt

Anybody got new pictures or advice of their electric setup installation. I have decided to go with a Hacker setup, I estimate I will just be about 15-20 grams under the weight limit of 5kg.

I would be interested to see more pictures of engine battery and esc installation. (I have seen all the old pics on RCU)


In Particular the cooling, I am unsure if i can fly without a pipe tunnel and leave air run through the model.
(Saw on another post that someone did this and their canopy blew off.) Yet picture of manfred greves Impact show no tunnel and the fuz is totally open.

Do I have to close off the radio section with my 10s3p's reveicer rudder servo ect.. are, or can I leave it open?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

19x14, wow.....what %nitro and pipe are you running. What are you turning the 17x13 at?

Brian

19x14, wow.....what %nitro and pipe are you running. What are you turning the 17x13 at?

Brian


*************************************

Have used both the standard Hatori #900 originally offered for the OS140, and the new ES carbon type for the Webra 160. They both work fine with the edge to the ES pipe on quietness front. Much larger pipe than the Hatori. The problem with the ES pipe is its length: it will not fit in my model at the long setting required so I am relegated to Hatori duty only.

Fuel is run of the mill CP 10% with 2 extra ounces of castor oil added for margin. This is fine fuel for all two stroke work.

I used higher nitro too (my old mix was 30% heli and 10% CP mixed 50:50, plus 2 ounces of castor) but was getting some pre-ignition rattle that I could hear and found undesireable. Turned out to be unnecessary to run the high octane stuff

17x13 full blade will turn at over 8500 if I let it. It's almost scary power and makes my 9 3/4 #Temptress go ballistic. And BTW I am running the TN Promix II carb, not the MC that came with the engine. Far simpler set-up and not as critical as it was on the 145. Hope that helps

MattK

Matt, that 18*12 Meslick {spelling?} I was running on the 145 turned about 500-600 rpm less than the 17*13APC before I shortend it, it was quite as well. It was still a heavy load for the 145 even after taking an inch off the 145 was spinning it around 7500. The 145 is much more happy with the APC 17*13 spinning around 7800-7900. I am planning to run the Meslick on the 160 after break in.

Here are the insides of mine from the Nats. I will do the same thing on my new one, but I will make it out of 1/8" balsa instead to keep it a bit lighter. I will still reinforce the rudder servo mount to make sure it does not flex in the balsa floor. Only other I will do different is instead of making an air dam in the canopy, I will take some BVM Polyply (thin fiberglass sheet) and put it around the inside base of the canopy to seal it off.

Thanks for that information Jason, it helps alot the pictures are great. I now know exactly what to do with my setup.


Best of Luck in France, Will you be flying the Impact again or do you have a new model?

The more I looked at this rudder hinge set-up, the more urge was to change it. One hot-knife later and some balsa wood and it was done. I had to sand the elevator cut out angles to clear the rudder swing near the center, (but you can't really see it).


Eric.