Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
03-29-2006 | 09:45 PM
#76
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
Thanks, you continued photos on this thread are going to be alot of help to me. Did you just predrill a hole and use a coping saw to cut out for the elevator?
03-30-2006 | 09:50 AM
#77
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
I did not pre drill as I use a Dremel tool . I was less than perfect on the cut out I used a carpenters gage to approximate the cord of the horizontal stabilizer marked it with a pencil on the left and right rear fuselage where the stab. is to be mounted.
Here are pictures of the tools I used
Here are pictures of the tools I used
04-06-2006 | 08:36 PM
#83
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
Much shimming was required as I seem to have made too large a cut out in the rear empenage in order to accommodate the horizontal stab. all is going nicely with the priming and finish sanding the stab BEFORE I align and glue in place.
The wings are to be joined next so I sat the fuselage on the wing I love the lines and simplicity of it my kind of "sport airplane."
The wings are to be joined next so I sat the fuselage on the wing I love the lines and simplicity of it my kind of "sport airplane."
04-07-2006 | 01:45 PM
#85
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
Several reasons,I must say-- :for example durability.The TTIV was designed for a tuned pipe which added weight aft of the C/G where as my build is with a 91 FX with stock or custom muffler adding directly to weight of the nose. Second if I do it right .06OZ glass applied thinned,excess soaked up with a paper towel and then givin a second coat of epoxy quickly squeezed off using playing cards or the like leaves you with a sealed and strengthened structure ready for film covering or a couple light coats of paint.
One big reason for not using tissue is concerns of the Nitrate orbutyrate dope dissolving the wing and stab cores..but thats far fetched I know.
One big reason for not using tissue is concerns of the Nitrate orbutyrate dope dissolving the wing and stab cores..but thats far fetched I know.
04-07-2006 | 03:21 PM
#87
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger
Glassing is actually easier, stronger and lighter than using tissue. Plus it is easier to sand without worrying about breaking through the material.
I miss K&B Superpoxy and fiberglass.
Glassing is actually easier, stronger and lighter than using tissue. Plus it is easier to sand without worrying about breaking through the material.
I miss K&B Superpoxy and fiberglass.
I never tried your method but meant to when K&B was redily available and in good quality as compared to to later so called "Ultrapoxy'"I since experimented with base and clear finishes as well then "KlassKote became available and is working for me at least. BTW:Are you saying you mix part A&B Superpoxie (clear)together as say I would with a 2-part epoxy finish resin such as Pacer "Z-Poxy"??
04-10-2006 | 09:42 AM
#88
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
Light silkspan and jap tissue is a lot lighter than .6 oz Fiberglass. You can also lay down silkspan with white glue thinned with water. I am considering finishing a Kaos. Was planning to use Ultra Cote trying out a new trick of painting the whole thing with thinned white glue to keep the covering from lifting and wrinkling. But I was planning on black and gold to match the HP Gold Cup engine. But I doubt black Ultra Kote is not going to winkle no matter what, so now I am planning to paint the fuse with some black polyurethane I have and using gold Ultra Cote on the wing and for trim. Use the black Ultra Kote for trim on the wing. So I am consdering finishing methods. Been a long time since I have used anything but laquer and dope. Don't really care for polyurethane but I have a quart of black, red, and white.
04-10-2006 | 10:11 AM
#89
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
Sport Pilot,
Have you tried using Polyspan for the open bay areas? I covered a Hots wing with it and it was great. Goes on like silkspan, shrinks with heat like film, finishes like silkspan (takes less dope to seal, as well) and is TOUGH. When I get more time, I plan to go back to using it because I love the look of the polyspan over the open bay construction with just clear dope.
Mark
Have you tried using Polyspan for the open bay areas? I covered a Hots wing with it and it was great. Goes on like silkspan, shrinks with heat like film, finishes like silkspan (takes less dope to seal, as well) and is TOUGH. When I get more time, I plan to go back to using it because I love the look of the polyspan over the open bay construction with just clear dope.
Mark
04-10-2006 | 08:03 PM
#90
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
No I haven't. I bought a bunch of Monokote and Ultracote on sale from a hobby shop that was closing. For about 6 bucks a roll. If I ever use that up, I plan on trying it.
04-11-2006 | 02:33 PM
#92
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
I joined the wing halves after carefully MARKING the wing bottom at the roots left and right respectivly. ..this basically allowed me to attempt"to bevel the correct angle at the root of each panel well at least I CAREFULLY blew the dust out of the foam cores before applying the 30 Min. epoxy. Once the wings were joined with the epoxy still set up I went for two canbon prods that I purcashed from Central Hobbies:the plan was to tape them in place parall with the cord line at each wing tip. but as with about half the stuff in my shop they were lost [
] even a 1/16" can cause trim problems. I sure as hay hope when I re cover the alignment rods the wing will be irtually twist free (I hope[8D]
] even a 1/16" can cause trim problems. I sure as hay hope when I re cover the alignment rods the wing will be irtually twist free (I hope[8D]
04-11-2006 | 03:12 PM
#93
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
ORIGINAL: ramcfarland
Georgia&Canada the thinned white glue pictured would it work and what about the H2Oin the thinned glue warping the outer skin..on the subject of Polyspan is it heat activated adhesive?
Georgia&Canada the thinned white glue pictured would it work and what about the H2Oin the thinned glue warping the outer skin..on the subject of Polyspan is it heat activated adhesive?
04-11-2006 | 04:12 PM
#94
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
Georgia&Canada the thinned white glue pictured would it work and what about the H2Oin the thinned glue warping the outer skin..on the subject of Polyspan is it heat activated adhesive?
Mark
04-11-2006 | 07:07 PM
#95
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
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ORIGINAL: mmattockx
Can't comment on the water warping the wing (I don't think it will be an issue on a foam core wing), but the polyspan can be stuck down with either Balsarite or nitrate dope. If you use the Balsarite, you put a couple of coats on the airframe and then iron it down like film. Follow that with a coat of nitrate dope around the edges to really seal it down, then shrink with a heat gun like film. When shrunk, seal with a couple coats of nitrate dope and finish with either butyrate dope or your favorite paint. If you use nitrate dope, you put it on like silkspan (except dry, not wet) with a couple coats of nitrate dope on the airframe first, then nitrate dope to stick the edges down. Then shrink and seal as above. I have used both methods and either works fine. I preferred using dope to stick it down, but it was not a big deal either way.
Mark
Georgia&Canada the thinned white glue pictured would it work and what about the H2Oin the thinned glue warping the outer skin..on the subject of Polyspan is it heat activated adhesive?
Mark
04-12-2006 | 09:08 AM
#97
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
I think the white glue came from me. I don't know if it will work with polyspan. It is a trick to make the heat sealing films stick better. If they don't stick to fiberglass or epoxy glue joints or fuel proofing you can thin any white glue or carpenters glue with water, paint it on, let it dry and the covering sticks. I have done this on problem areas and I want to try it on the entire model. I doubt it would cause warping because you don't put that much water down per coat.
04-12-2006 | 02:08 PM
#98
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
That works for me Sportpilot
In the past and STILL never maiden ed is the 1971 Top Flite stand off scale 'Red box Edition, Mustang which I did considerable (build ups of material,) as opposed to adding a balsa filler block,which is difficult at best to "laminate" to the existing balsa So I mixed and mixed name brand Carpenters wood working glue with Brown Micro ballons It had properties similar to bondo howeer-was thicker in consistancy It fully cured in 24 or less hours and sanded and THUS blended nicely with the surrounding balsa structure. and it was lighter than polyester Automotive filler too I thinkk..
In the past and STILL never maiden ed is the 1971 Top Flite stand off scale 'Red box Edition, Mustang which I did considerable (build ups of material,) as opposed to adding a balsa filler block,which is difficult at best to "laminate" to the existing balsa So I mixed and mixed name brand Carpenters wood working glue with Brown Micro ballons It had properties similar to bondo howeer-was thicker in consistancy It fully cured in 24 or less hours and sanded and THUS blended nicely with the surrounding balsa structure. and it was lighter than polyester Automotive filler too I thinkk..
04-12-2006 | 03:46 PM
#99
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
Hmm, I tried that and it seemed to clump up. Maybe its the brand of glue or the water or something. Or maybe it was the white microballon's? That may be it white glue doesn't seem to wet fiberglass too well so maybe it doesn't work with glass ballons only phenolic?
I will have to try that. That way you could use water to smooth it out instead of alcohol with epoxy and microballons.
I will have to try that. That way you could use water to smooth it out instead of alcohol with epoxy and microballons.
04-16-2006 | 02:54 AM
#100
RE: Plans or kit :Tigertail IV??
More progress will post Sunday or Monday:wings joined,with prorer dihedral of 3 1/4, rudder now constructed and wing aligned and jigged ready for drilling of bolts to retain wing. Here is a picture of it "all over the work bench 
