Critical Update: Gear block

Ok, this one is bugging me. I flew my own V2 well over 1000 flights before the infamous regulator failure, with no noticable wear and tear on the gear block. I DID tear mine out at Tangerine last December, but after seeing what I hit turning off the runway, it didn't strike me as an issue.

This year after seeing all of the Black Magics belonging to others, it's easier to count the ones that have NOT torn out the gear block. I believe that's evidence enough to classify this one as a weakness that needs to be addressed.

The VF3s already incorporated more structure for this, and are being updated to tie into the gear block and D1 doubler as a slotted fit.

I don't have a V2 to demonstrate, but what needs to be done is make a small half former at the rear of the gear plate, tying into the D1 doubler. This does not have to be large, ony about 1/4" tall at the middle, flaring up the sides to about an inch tall at the sides. Also it may be a good idea to make a triangular gusset piece at the front further anchoring the front of the gear plate to F2. This is critical if you plan to fly off grass.

I will try to make adrawing later to make it clear.

-Mike

I concur with what Mike says about bracing the gear plate if you're flying off of grass. I tore mine out in my first airplane and since I braced it there hasn't been any problems.

Below is a pic of the inside of the fuse just for orientation purposes the nose of the airplane is to the left. The gear brace is just fore and aft of the wing adjusters. If anyone needs more detailed pics let me know and I'll get what you need.

Rick

Just had to post a pic of my v2.2 that I started over a year ago. I think my first post of this plane was on page 6 of this thread. I finished all the base coats, I'll be airbrushing some more color and clear coat. The plane is coming out really light, the fully finished fuse with the bolly L/G is at 51 1/4 oz. My finished wing cores are 10 1/4 each. I might be converting this plane to electric, it's now set up for a DZ. It should be under 10 lbs with DZ.

Is that a pearl red around the canopy or a candy apple red? Looks good either way.

Hey Pete,

It's DCC True Red, it's been sanded and will be getting clear. I've got med plum, yellow, true red and white on her so far. I have orange, black, gray, and silver to go on next.

A few peeks

Got some trim color on the plane. Still have to trim the canopy and clear. Been enjoying my custom iwata airbrush. I'll be doing more color, I guess I am not in to big of a rush anyhow.

the hummers are right out side my shop.

enjoy!

wow, I just looked at the photos I uploaded, it really seems like RCU uses a lot of image compression on their server. the orange and reds looks bad on these pages.

Wow, Dean! I'm really digging that fading on those flames!!

You really are coming into your own with the custom building stuff. Looks awesome!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dude.............................................. .................................................. .................................................. ......................

I gotta get busy! That is some SERIOUS paint bro. NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!

-Mike

Dude,

that is sweet!!!!!!! Very nice work...you are definitely figuring out this painting thing...

Arch

No kidding....now, somehow, I have to top it...LOL

-Mike

Well...I'm waiting!!! Lets see what you can come up with using orange, white, yellow, purple, and platinum...

Semi-patiently waiting....

Arch

Dean,

Did you use paint mask cut on your vinyl cutter for that or was it a few rolls of fineline and freehand?

I like the way the red shows up in the pics; has a translucent quality.

Pete

Your first one looks pretty darned sweet....

Wish you were closer by, I'd let you go through my paint chip books...all HOK, PPG Vibrance series, and Auto Air...color shifters, candies, pearls, everything. The HOK stuff is probably the way to go. It's kameleons aren't as dramatic as the PPG series, but it's the difference in $50 vs $400 too. The Auto air stuff is great, but it's water based. Perfect for foamies and some stuff on 2 meters. But I prefer urethanes.

Now I have to find a viny cutter for masks. Dean keeps raising the freakin bar over there

-Mike

He does seem to be on the path to be "The Paint Guru"

Mike one question if I might. Why is the canopy so far back? Is there a reason? Seems the new "trend" is forward canopies. Just wondering.

That's the V2. On the VF3 it's 2 inches forward.

Yeah that's the trend it seems. I just do what works, or try to. My theory is place the important stuff at the right places, then connect the dots and smooth it out. Works great!

I'm not going to stick the canopy over the spinner just yet. LOL

The VF3 is exactly what I want right now. heck I might even build myself one if I ever get a minute to frame one (that belongs to me!)

-Mike

Tim,

Dean is painting his v2.2 here. It is the little bit older design. The VF3 is the new version and it has a forward canopy. The 2.2 is a SWEET flying airplane and flies the AMA sequences basically as well as the VF3. It does some things a little different. They definitely have a different feel to them.

Mike, if i'm back in country before you paint it...I'm going go to some contest you'll be at, just have to figure out which one...we can do some looking then...


Arch

Sounds like a plan!

-Mike

Holy shiznit bro!!! That's sweet!!

Note to self: must get vinyl cutter and more Iwata air brushes and HOK paints!!!!

-M

I need that stuff and a big batch of skills to go with it.

Wow thanks all, glad you guys are as crazy about this stuff as I am. Thanks for all the nice comments ALL!

I've got the second level of trim kinda designed in my head for the plane and the canopy trim to do. I am shooting silver met. and more color and more shading next.

I am just glad you all like the work I am doing. It's all about practice, practice, practice - flying or painting.

I did all the tribal flame work with cut spray masks, the rest 3m blue tape. The Iwata Custom brush is amazing and the Sata minjet just freaking rocks. The amazing thing about all this is - with the right tools it's super easy, just time consuming. It's all about prep. This is all solid DCC color. I haven't shot my pearls on her yet.

The next big step for me is to cut all the monokote for the wings and stabs on my cutter, so far all my test prove my machine does it well. I'll be able to do all the color curvy wing designs and cut it so it overlaps only at the edges. It will be nice because I'll be able to design the entire wing and stab schemes on my computer and just hit "CUT"

Just glad I am getting this kind of feedback, thanks!

cheers all,
Dean

I am also leaning back towards going with the DZ instead of the retro electric conversion - I'll be able to do a 2 - stage clear on the plane once I'm done with the paint and still be at around 10 lbs. This plane will be awesome with the 160DZ.

"Build it light and paint it right."

Looks great Dean keep up the good work. I always seem to screw up paint one way or he other need more practice. In fact I shot clear this morning and it is really screwed up the good thing is I think I have enough on to sand and put a light recoat to bring the shine back.
Steve Maxwell

Hi Steve,

what I noticed with the clear is you have to reduce it a lot ( i do 50% with reducer) and then shot it with the lowest pressure - to minimize overspray. It it's smooth but not shinny it could be because of overspray.

and thanks.....