Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated*
#1251
Senior Member
My Feedback: (6)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Nineveh,
IN
Thanks Dean I just went back and read John Redmans article on jet painting he uses 4-1 - 3 to 5 parts which is what I tried the first tiime when I had problems so this time I tried the manufactures way 4-1-1 which wasn't looking as good as my test peices.I'm using the 2042 speed clear from Radio South and using the DX 885 to slow the drying down and hope to flow better, but I have many issues like didn't notice my moisture trap was getting full you can picture the next thing that happened, I also got fisheyes after the first med coat not sure why the wouldn't show up the first coat. I'll try different pressures the next time I using the HVLP from Harbor Freight that we have talked about and I think it's doing a great job it's all me now.
Steve Maxwell
You sure do nice work.
Steve Maxwell
You sure do nice work.
#1252
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Woodstock, GA
In the next 6-8 weeks we'll have a full tilt step by step on glassing, finishing, painting etc. I have everything up to the base coat of paint (where I kept running out of time!)
So, it should be a good read...with pics of course.
-Mike
PS Can't wait to see Dean's ride after all of the colors!
So, it should be a good read...with pics of course.
-Mike
PS Can't wait to see Dean's ride after all of the colors!
#1253
Senior Member
My Feedback: (6)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Nineveh,
IN
Yes I talked to Dean about doing an indepth paint in his thread on the V3 can't wait, I'm sure I'm not the only one that has had problems and I done a couple of really nice paint jobs in the 80's, although I couldn't prove it now LOl.
Steve Maxwell
Steve Maxwell
#1255
Senior Member
My Feedback: (23)
Steve,
on the sata when you get the pressure just right the gun literally sings, ssssssssssss. Just try a test on your gun to see how low pressure you can go, you should hit a sweet spot and all of a sudden the gun is working just better than ever.
I've noticed the biggest problem I have getting that super smooth gloss is not enough reducer, over spay fogging finished areas and too much pressure. I've been lucky that I haven't had a big problem with fish eyes or peel. And a lot of it is just basics like cleaning out the moisture traps, etc.
I've never had a problem with too much reducer, I've been over 50% with both the 855 and 870. Even the med purple and met. plum with is really transparent goes on really well reduced in half. You might have to do 4 light coats with a color like purple as it doesn't build up as fast as yellow or red.
The clear has been the easiest for me so far to master. What I like doing is the 2 stage where you wet sand the first coat of clear to level the graphics and then do a finish coat to make it all glossy smooth and perfect.
Also the 3M perfect it and finesse it buffing and polishing compounds are trick!!! Maybe next week I'll be poishing this baby!!!!
thanks all,
dean
on the sata when you get the pressure just right the gun literally sings, ssssssssssss. Just try a test on your gun to see how low pressure you can go, you should hit a sweet spot and all of a sudden the gun is working just better than ever.
I've noticed the biggest problem I have getting that super smooth gloss is not enough reducer, over spay fogging finished areas and too much pressure. I've been lucky that I haven't had a big problem with fish eyes or peel. And a lot of it is just basics like cleaning out the moisture traps, etc.
I've never had a problem with too much reducer, I've been over 50% with both the 855 and 870. Even the med purple and met. plum with is really transparent goes on really well reduced in half. You might have to do 4 light coats with a color like purple as it doesn't build up as fast as yellow or red.
The clear has been the easiest for me so far to master. What I like doing is the 2 stage where you wet sand the first coat of clear to level the graphics and then do a finish coat to make it all glossy smooth and perfect.
Also the 3M perfect it and finesse it buffing and polishing compounds are trick!!! Maybe next week I'll be poishing this baby!!!!
thanks all,
dean
#1256
Senior Member
My Feedback: (23)
Arch -
what does that "platinum" paint look like - it might work better than the met. silver on this plane - I need to maybe start "toning" things down a bit with the detail trim that I am doing next.
the met. silver I have is another of those "in you your face colors.
where you gettin that platinum paint bro???
#1259
Senior Member
My Feedback: (23)
Hi all,
I finished the color on the fuse and it's preped for clear. I did some cool silver met. shading on the canopy trim line. Silver is really hard to shade and feather but I got it looking good. I cleared the canopy tonight and it's ready for my soon to be tradmarked "carbon pearl" effect

I've been experimenting with a yellow pearl shading on the raw carbon canopy. This "carbon pearl" treatment rocks and these photo's don't do it justice. This is my test canopy. I'll shot the real one tomorrow night.
enjoy!
Dean
#1260
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: New Milford,
CT
Dean,
That's sweet! Hmm, how about you come stay at my house for a week or so next Summer and we can paint my new jet boat? Don't worry, plenty of beer in the fridge and we're only about a half hour away from a flying field. <LOL>
I need to send you some info for my V2 graphics package. It looks like I'll be painting next week some time. I'm Monokoting the wings and stab's but the fuse and rudder will be silkspan (lighter than 'glass) + water borne Urethane. I'll send pic's.
John Pavlick
BTW - I did a landing gear block update that I will send pic's of also.
That's sweet! Hmm, how about you come stay at my house for a week or so next Summer and we can paint my new jet boat? Don't worry, plenty of beer in the fridge and we're only about a half hour away from a flying field. <LOL>
I need to send you some info for my V2 graphics package. It looks like I'll be painting next week some time. I'm Monokoting the wings and stab's but the fuse and rudder will be silkspan (lighter than 'glass) + water borne Urethane. I'll send pic's.
John Pavlick
BTW - I did a landing gear block update that I will send pic's of also.
#1261
Senior Member
My Feedback: (23)
Hey John,
I might just take you up on painting that jet boat. Sounds like an awesome project!!
The water based urethane/silkspan base does sound interesting and maybe easier than fiberglass. What urethane and silkspan are you going to use? I witness the mid-air of the Zeque at the shot out in muncie, that is how the oxi planes are done. it's a very thin base, I got to examine pieces of the wreckage. What I really like about the fiberglass is it does add some strength and a great base for block sanding, I am interested in see how the silkspan base works and how well you can block it to get plate flat. I am thinking you can't really block it like the fiberglass, epoxy, microballons base. Let us all know brotha...
later dude, dean
I might just take you up on painting that jet boat. Sounds like an awesome project!!
The water based urethane/silkspan base does sound interesting and maybe easier than fiberglass. What urethane and silkspan are you going to use? I witness the mid-air of the Zeque at the shot out in muncie, that is how the oxi planes are done. it's a very thin base, I got to examine pieces of the wreckage. What I really like about the fiberglass is it does add some strength and a great base for block sanding, I am interested in see how the silkspan base works and how well you can block it to get plate flat. I am thinking you can't really block it like the fiberglass, epoxy, microballons base. Let us all know brotha...
later dude, dean
#1262
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: New Milford,
CT
Dean,
I'm using lightweight silkspan and Nelson Urethane. I've done the silkspan thing on smaller planes before - this is my first time on a 2-meter though. The process is quite a bit different than 'glass. NO heavy block sanding because the tissue is really thin and it just bonds to the wood. Basically you get the wood smooth and straight (block sand THAT) then just lay the covering on to hide the grain. After that just fill the tissue with sanding sealer, prime and paint. Not nearly as much material deposited on the surface as a 'glass finish (i.e. LIGHT). I'm sure the fiberglass adds a good amount of strength but I don't think that's really necessary on this plane. This fuse is pretty stiff already. Actually I'm surprised just how strong it is considering the fact that it's just a basic box with foam caps. I'll get some pic's as the work progresses. Almost ready...
John Pavlick
BTW - Actually the 'glass finish is less time consuming.
I'm using lightweight silkspan and Nelson Urethane. I've done the silkspan thing on smaller planes before - this is my first time on a 2-meter though. The process is quite a bit different than 'glass. NO heavy block sanding because the tissue is really thin and it just bonds to the wood. Basically you get the wood smooth and straight (block sand THAT) then just lay the covering on to hide the grain. After that just fill the tissue with sanding sealer, prime and paint. Not nearly as much material deposited on the surface as a 'glass finish (i.e. LIGHT). I'm sure the fiberglass adds a good amount of strength but I don't think that's really necessary on this plane. This fuse is pretty stiff already. Actually I'm surprised just how strong it is considering the fact that it's just a basic box with foam caps. I'll get some pic's as the work progresses. Almost ready...
John Pavlick
BTW - Actually the 'glass finish is less time consuming.
#1265
Senior Member
My Feedback: (23)
HI Gary,
a bit of a scheduling conflict, the Allman Bros are at Peidmont Park in Atlanta that weekend. I haven't missed the bros in over 10 years. Unlike pattern, the bros are not going to be around forever. I got the tickects like last year. If things change I'll be at your meet for sure.
see you at the field bro, Dean
#1266

My Feedback: (58)
How many times have you seen them Dean?
More on topic; finally got my vac setup running again. Time to vac bag the wing cores. I might actually wind up with a flyable airplane by mid October.
Anyone wanting to know about vacuum bagging can feel free to PM me. If tere is enough interest I might do a thread.
More on topic; finally got my vac setup running again. Time to vac bag the wing cores. I might actually wind up with a flyable airplane by mid October.
Anyone wanting to know about vacuum bagging can feel free to PM me. If tere is enough interest I might do a thread.
#1268

My Feedback: (58)
ORIGINAL: jrpav1
Dean,
I'm using lightweight silkspan and Nelson Urethane. I've done the silkspan thing on smaller planes before - this is my first time on a 2-meter though. The process is quite a bit different than 'glass. NO heavy block sanding because the tissue is really thin and it just bonds to the wood. Basically you get the wood smooth and straight (block sand THAT) then just lay the covering on to hide the grain. After that just fill the tissue with sanding sealer, prime and paint. Not nearly as much material deposited on the surface as a 'glass finish (i.e. LIGHT). I'm sure the fiberglass adds a good amount of strength but I don't think that's really necessary on this plane. This fuse is pretty stiff already. Actually I'm surprised just how strong it is considering the fact that it's just a basic box with foam caps. I'll get some pic's as the work progresses. Almost ready...
John Pavlick
BTW - Actually the 'glass finish is less time consuming.
Dean,
I'm using lightweight silkspan and Nelson Urethane. I've done the silkspan thing on smaller planes before - this is my first time on a 2-meter though. The process is quite a bit different than 'glass. NO heavy block sanding because the tissue is really thin and it just bonds to the wood. Basically you get the wood smooth and straight (block sand THAT) then just lay the covering on to hide the grain. After that just fill the tissue with sanding sealer, prime and paint. Not nearly as much material deposited on the surface as a 'glass finish (i.e. LIGHT). I'm sure the fiberglass adds a good amount of strength but I don't think that's really necessary on this plane. This fuse is pretty stiff already. Actually I'm surprised just how strong it is considering the fact that it's just a basic box with foam caps. I'll get some pic's as the work progresses. Almost ready...
John Pavlick
BTW - Actually the 'glass finish is less time consuming.
John,
What's the latest on this? I'm curious to say the least.
#1269
Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: rochester hills,
MI
Finally, I finished my black magic V2. I start out before last winter and ends up to finish in this winter.
Here are the pics of it.
It is getting cold here in michigan. I will test fly it if the weather allows.
Mike
Here are the pics of it.
It is getting cold here in michigan. I will test fly it if the weather allows.
Mike
#1271
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Woodstock, GA
16-20oz tank, 2 1/2" dubro super lite foam wheels. Any progress on the composite version?
Hey Mike that plane turned out fantastic!!! Let us know how she flies!
-Mike
Hey Mike that plane turned out fantastic!!! Let us know how she flies!
-Mike
#1272
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Noordbrug, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi Mike
Thanks for the info.
As usual work intervened with play. So at this stage the basic moulds for the fuse are finished. We are making the small moulds now (Canopy, belly pan ribs etc.). Hope to build a fuse in the next 3 weeks.
What g load you figure for a Paternship?
Regards
Attie
Thanks for the info.
As usual work intervened with play. So at this stage the basic moulds for the fuse are finished. We are making the small moulds now (Canopy, belly pan ribs etc.). Hope to build a fuse in the next 3 weeks.
What g load you figure for a Paternship?
Regards
Attie
#1273

My Feedback: (58)
Well I missed having a flyable plane by mid-october but I did get the spars, false ribs and wing tubes in tonight. Hopefully will get the skins on tomorrow. I am trying something new to me and burying the aileron capping under the skins and then cutting along the dotted lines. Hopefully it will work as planned. I saw it on a website last year and thought it looked like a good idea.
#1274
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Guntersville,
AL
Wing an stab tubes,were can they be had. Centeral Hobbies are out an the same for ES long gear an while I am at it I tryed rcaerobates for a carbon fiber pipe, no luck Any idea's


