Hey Mike,

Any updates on your end? Also, are you still CD'ing that contest in April? Take care.

My only update is that I'm about to have 4 V2s in the air, and WOW do they look sweet! I'm still working on the Cad stuff, working with Dean to get another "certified" builder in the mix (so to speak), just got an update on the carbon fiber and have a crapload on the truck coming.

Yep I'm still CDing that contest at GMA on April 8-9, it's official, firm and I have the sanction. I hope you can make it down and bring whoever you can drag with you! it should be a blast. I just hope the weather cooperates, it's so unpredictable that time of year.

So, I'm busting my tail here. I wish I had more time to spend on this thread, but it looks like Dean is takin up my slack while I'm painting and covering (I hate this part, but it's a necessary evil).

-Mike

Hi Everybody....

my formers have been downloaded 57 times in less the 24 hours......

from these domains.....

1. com (Commercial)
2. (no entry)
3. net (Network)
4. au (Australia)
5. fr (France)
6. be (Belgium)
7. it (Italy)
8. nl (Netherlands)
9. pl (Poland)
10. fi (Finland)

that's pretty cool...

HI again everyone....

well on my never ending efforts to draw the perfect formers I have revised my drawings for the Black Magic V2.

http://www.precisionaerobaticstructu...v2_formers.pdf

Thanks to Troy, he discovered some differences in f5 - f8 - that might effect the top turtle deck fit. It seems that my measurments where a few mm off in width. I used both the template plans and the side and top views of the fuse plans to determine my sizes. I went back and remeasured things and now have a better set. some where 2- 3 mm off in width.

I have triple check these and they are a GO!!!!

I am in the middle of build my fuse with these formers and things are going fine.....

so if you did download the orginal set, please deleate those and true the new download....

and Troy, I owe you a set of laser cut formers, if you cover the postage, I'll send you a set in about a week!

cheers, Dean

Hey Dean

No worries at all. We are all trying to achieve the same thing a great flying aircraft. You dont owe me anything at all. Im glad we found it early and all is good

Thanks

Troy

Hi All,

I am having fun now. - either I love this stuff or I am buzzing on CA fumes. hahaha

The formers I cut from my final templates fit perfectly without any sanding, if you do use my drawings cut right on the line. they fit nice and tight without damaging the stringers.

Since I will be running the DZ 140 - I have been doing a little consulting with local YS expert Jim I.

Jim suggested that I just go a little heaver on the 1/4 sq stringers using 7.5 g pieces instead of Mikes recomendation of 5 gram. I figure and extra half ounce won't hurt me and they are much firmer and stronger than the 5 gram stringers I was going to use. I also added a 1/16 ply tripler to the firewall. So it's 1/8 birch ply - 1/8 hard balsa - 1/16 birch ply, I still cut out the donut hole in the balsa layer and put the 1/8 ply plug as per the plans.... It's still in the press so I don't have weights on it but , the additional layer of 1/16 ply only weighs 20 g.

I still have to glue in the lite ply doublers in to the fuse sides - rwithout the doublers my sides tip the scales at 69.9 and 73.4 g.

I still have about half of the jig stations left to finish. So I hope to get the fuse in the jig soon!


loving it : )

Dean

Taped Fuse Mockup ---- On the final jig setup there will be a top laser

It was real easy to tape this fuse together, and make it very straight ; ) I think I may knock out at least one more fuse box while I am waiting on my Radio South order, I don't have my wing tubes yet, they have been backordered fro 2 weeks.... So I can't do much with the wings, my sheeting is already edge glued and waiting in the press - thanks to Jim I.

I've got a pile of really nice light wood, I am going to build a real light one next, this fuse is at 7.5 oz and the fire wall is at 3 oz. untrimed -- so this fuse box hits 10.25+-

This is my heaver wood, I've got lighter 1/8 sheet and lighter stringers. we will see....

The former fit is ahhh, really nice, and it's only taped .. : )



oh,, it's 2 am again..... aghhhh....

Did you get an ETA on those tubes? The last set I ordered were backordered from August until Thanksgiving......

Wing tubes are one of those "buy them when you can" items. Maybe it's getting time that an American cottage industry started making good C/F tubes?

-Mike

Hey Mike,

do you know about the tooling required to make CF tubes and pipes? Sound like something I'd like to try.....

Dean

they said they where fed-xing my tubes on friday.....

Hello Mhesters

Will a 25CC gas engine will do for this type of a pattern plane

Harry.

I would imagine it may be too heavy and not enough power. but, if you can build light enough and strong enough to absorb that much vibration, then yes, it could be done. I actually designed it with the zdz 40 in mind. I just haven't gotten around to actually installing one.

It just depends on you8r building really...yes it can be done, but it requires some special attention to make it feasable with that small of a gas engine.

-Mike

"OLA Black Magic Bretheren"

Well, I'm not as far along as some of you guys, but I have managed to construct my high tech Laser Jig. I used Gator jig stations and unistrut mounted on a 1"x2"x1/8" rectangular aluminum ladder. Thanks Dean for the laser idea, this is gonna rock like a hurricane. Some one in a previous post wanted to know what model it is-it's a Bushnell PivotPoint laser level #82897 available at your local Radio Shack just like Hangglider said, for $15.00., It shoots a point, horizontal line or a crosshair. You can raise or lower it at will ....Cool!

Waiting for the big wood shipment to arrive, then it's full throttle time.

See ya

Gene Webber
Director
Caleeefornia Department of Pattern

Right on Gene!

.
.
.
Oh come on. . . how straight can a laser line be for $15.00?? Buy cheap buy twice!!!
.
.
.

Oh Keith of little faith.

That's what's cool about this little cheapo laser, it's perfectly suitalble for this application. The lines it shoots are perfectly straight, once the photons are emited they have to go straight unless they are refracted or reflected. First you build a straight and square jig on a perfectly flat surface, then align the laser to the jig (that's what the adjusment knobs are for), locate your fuse formers with the vertical target lines in the jig and turn on the laser. When your targets line up with the laser- you're good to go. Simple, fast, accurate and cheap! Go to Radio Shack and check em out.

Believe my brother.


Gene Webber
Director
Caleeefornia Department of Pattern

Dean,


Any chance you will make the laser cut formers available for sale.


Bob M

Hello Everybody,

I just sent my files to the laser cutter, I should have formers by the end of the week.

If anybody wants to pre-order a set - contact me directly. If all goes well I can have a dozen or more sets cut this week.

I have both Gas and Electric F1 Firewall versions available, so let me know what you are running.

I also have an extra lightened F2 former version - with extra large lightning holes, we will see home much lighter it will be. It looks like swiss cheese.

I don't have pricing yet, but email with your pre-order and I will keep you posted.

Mike will also be able to include these with his future short kits. And I will be building all my customer airplanes with these formers.

stay tuned....

dean

my direct email is:

[email protected]

Another new building table!

I spent a good part of yesterday building my fuselage table, 36 x 96 x 3/4" MDF supported on a bench made out of 8 2x4. It's perfectly flat and level. The jig will be built on a piece of 20 x 96 x 3/4" MDF, that will lay in position on top of the tabletop, this will alow me to have multiple jig setups that I can swap out.

It matchs the 48 x 96" table I built last week, the aircraft factory is looking sweeeet!

Hi All,

Been busy hand cutting 4 former sets, I've decided that I am going to build 4 fuses right off the bat....

One for each power plant option, I am going to build a 4C glow for my YS DZ 140, a gas version for the ZDZ 40, a 2C version for either the OS 140 or 160, and a super light electric fuse.

So what I am doing is cutting FOUR fuse "kits", then once I get weights on all the parts, I'll put all the lightest parts in the electric fuse. I have been playing around with different firewall options and F2 options. So I am hoping to be able to have one super light fuse.

I will be building fuse sides and tail blocks tonight.

My focus will be on building the YS and ZDZ versions after I build the 4 "fuse boxes". I only plan on sheeting up and finishing 2 sets of wings. I hope to be able to swap out 2 sets of wings between the 4 fuses. I will eventually build other wing sets.

Not sure yet if any of these will be for sale, at this point I am building them as "personal planes"

I AM also be taking orders for hand cut and/or laser cut formers, fusesides and other custom parts for the Black Magic V2. If you are interested in pre- ordering precision parts or complete fuse boxes contact me directly, I already have customer's parts on order.

loving it ; )

Dean

HI All,

Here is a shot of my tail blocks, I am running the DZ - Mike suggested that I cut a 1/4 slot for the fin post. It was easy to do with my dremel router. Also here is the steel ruler jig I am using to cut fuse sides, I tape the ruler down to the table top and tape the 1/8 balsa sides to the ruler in position to do my cuts, It keeps the top edge nice and straight.

I am setting up a "double plate" landing gear support but - I am still waiting for my RSouth order with my landing geat and wing tubes. agghhhhh. I need to have the thickness of the bolly gear to position the main plate...

I've got 2 set of fuse sides, 2 tail blocks and 4 sets of formers on hand now, and now with my new fusealage table built - I am ready to rock on my first two fuses! I only have to cut my landing plates.

cheers, dean

Actually I said extend the tail post down all the way to the tail wheel block instead of stopping at the fuse top. You have to cut the whole block 1/4", not just slot it.

Sorry if I wasn't clear on that. Sometimes things don't translate well over the phone I 'spose.

-Mike

BTW you're doing a great job Dean!

-Mike

thanks bro...

got it on the tail block....