Which one is best?, they both look the same functionality but Iron Bay has better fittings, not very durable with glow as I read, any comments?.

Thanks

Perry VP-30

Perry VP-30 works great.

The Perry and Cline/Iron bay are two entirely different units; it's difficult to draw a comparison between the two. The Perry is a pump while the Cline/I.B. is an on-demand regulator with the crankcase supplying pressure to the tank and pushing the fuel, rather than pulling.

The I.B. is nicer looking and, depending on how you view it, higher quality. The Cline, on the other hand, is adjustable to some degree which the I.B. isn't- at least not in its current configuration. I've used the Cline and have an I.B. on the shelf NIP. The Cline is not necessarily a "plug and play" unit and can require some finessing to make it work properly. I've heard some people say they installed the Cline and forgot about it and I have no doubt that's true- but it may not be the case when the next person tries one. Not trying to put the Cline in a bad light; it's just something you need to keep in mind.

I have used both, and know the Iron Bay regulator inside and out. The Iron Bay regulator is the only true regulator. I have been around since the development of the Iron Bay, and have even had a hand in it. It works on the principle like a scuba tank. You pressurize the tank, and it forces fuel to the back of the regulator and then the carburator vacuum opens the diaphragm letting fuel through. The Iron Bay is also machined aluminum instead of plastic. I can tell you anything you want to know about the Iron Bay Regulator. Yes, i do work at Iron Bay, but do mostly flights for the UAV program that we have. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions...which motor are you planning on using it on?

Arch Stafford

Also the Iron Bay regulator will hold up fine for glow fuel. It was designed for Ducted Fan engines originally. Yes, over a LONG period of time the diaphragm will dry out with glow fuel. This takes years, and Iron Bay will replace the diaphragms for free for as long as you own the regulator. The regulator continues to work fine though even if the diaphragm dries out. As long as it isn't cracked or broken which wont happen unless it is totally dried out and you take the regulator apart. Some of the original regulators I've seen have been running on glow fuel for 3 years now without any problems with hundreds if not thousands of flights.

Arch Stafford

Arch, it is a relief to know that the diaphragm will last, that was a concern as per the web page, it looks nicer but at the end the metal fittings is what I like for safety, I'll try that one, I'm intending to use it with the OS 160 in an Impact.

Thanks all for the inputs.

I plan on using one on a Moki 2.1. Can the needle tab be adjusted on the Iron Bay as on the Cline to adjust for the mid range?
Thanks
Jerry

I have the Iron bay... and it works flawlessly... and they were friendly and ROCKET fast when I ordered it

Our regulator with the OS 1.60FX works great. My brother has one, then another guy at the field and they work great. Our regulator does not have a midrange adjustment because its not needed. The cline regulator basically you control the spring tension that holds the diaphragm closed. You can actually have enough pressure to force fuel through the regulator which is not the case with ours. On ours, the carburator actually sucks open the valve as it needs it, so the low speed needle on your carb is still effective. Unfortunatley there are 2 motors which we have had problem due the very large bore on the carburator not producing enough vacuum to open the valve. These 2 motors are the Moki 2.1 and the Moki 1.8. We are working on a fix for this and have had some success..however we are not ready to offer that yet for production. If you have any questions, send me an email at [email protected]

Arch

I've been using the Iron Bay Regulator on a OS 1.60. It had been working for over a month of flying, doing great until the other day, of course about a week before my 1st contest, when my engine quit during a flight and as I was dead-sticking my landing I noticed that fuel was pouring from the front of the plane. The only thing I could think of is that the valve stuck open and I opened the vent line to relieve tank pressure and fuel flow stopped. I have filters for fuel going into tank and in the fuel line but I took it apart anyways to see if it had something in it. Cleaned it up and I put everything back together and it fired up, and seemed to be running strong as usual but again it died during the flight, however this time there was no stream of fuel when I landed. I saw on their website about changing o-rings when opening needle doesn't richen engine much, which I did, but still the same problem. It seems to run great on the bench but as soon as I get in the air it quits. Pattern planes are easy too deadstick at least :-( . Sending it back for now to see it they can advive if there is something wrong with it.
As far as contest went, My buddy and I shared his plane, & I beat him. Hopefully I can beat him with my plane in next contest, LOL.

It could be a problem with the shrader valve in the regulator. We had one other instance where the spring inside the valve actually broke and the spring stopped working. Anytime you have a problem..send me an email immediately...if you go to our website, the service@ironbaymodelcompany email comes to me...worst case I can send out a regulator to someone if they are having problems. I'm doing everything I can to fix every issue with a regulator or any other part. I will personally look at your regulator next week and get it out ASAP.

Arch

Arch,

I have an almost new IB regulator I had to remove from my setup. I could not richen my OS91 FX enough when using it. Tank pressure is OK, I'd bet some 6/8 psi I already tried to swap the fuel lines for large ones with metal clips in each end to no avail..

Any clue?

Just bought Iron Bay regulator for my Super Tigre G-3250 with Bisson Pitts muffler.
It is neccesery to tap the crankase for fitting or it is muffler pressure enough?
Is anyone has experience with this combo??

Crankcase pressure,then one-way valve to tank, will surely be best.
Have a look at the top left bolt hole on the backplate(viewed from the back of the engine)
S/Ts often have the hole going right through into the crankcase.
If so, you can replace the bolt with a nipple and you're there.

We usually recommend trying muffler pressure first. Saves the work. He is right though, sometimes Super Tiger's already have the work done for you. If it has the bolt you can remove and replace with the pressure fitting, then go ahead and do that. If it doesn't, you can run muffler pressure. Our regulators do not require a great deal of pressure to work. You are only using pressure to force the fuel to the back of the regulator. This doesn't require a great deal of pressure. As I said, if its easy, go ahead and install the pressure tap..if its not. Then you can try muffler pressure first.

Arch Stafford

The 1.60FX with the Perry VP-30 seems to be absolute standard, bullet proof set up over here.
Several have been competing with no probs only smiles all round.
In fact one user has retrofitted one to his 1.40RX bypassing the oiginal!
Works 110% and sure offers a cheap solution if the original and expensive RX pump FU's!
I know several have had and used Clines or similar, the fact that they're using Ye Olde Perry on the FX says something.
It just works.

Muffler pressure? Why use the regulator if you're only running muffler pressure to the tank? You can get that without spending the $50+ for the regulator! Pressure isn't what makes the regulator "work"; it's the negative pressure the diaphragm sees from the carb venturi- thus regulating pressurized fuel into the carb- same as the Walbro carbs seen on most gassers.

Does anybody konw where to put the hole for crankcase pressure on an Evolution 100? I have the IB regulator and am not sure if I am getting the required pressure or not. The engine runs ok right-side up but when inverted, as the installation on the Excelleron 90 requires, it does not run well at all. (see previous posts regarding this engine/plane combo and the problems I have been having).



DS

Muffler pressure is provided to the tank through a check valve which maintains a higher pressure in the tank.

With the Iron Bay Regulator, it doesn't take much pressure to make it work. All you are doing is forcing fuel to the back of the regulator. That doesn't require a great deal of pressure. Usually muffler pressure with the check valve is more than enough. In cases where it isn't then you can try tapping the crank case.

Arch

Check valve or not, it's still muffler pressure; once the regulator opens and fuel flows, whatever pressure exists in the tank is reduced or exhausted unless adequate muffler pressure exists and can keep up with the pressure loss due to fuel flowing through the carb- which it may or may not depending on the type of exhaust system being used. As restriction diminishes, so does pressure- a basic tenet of fluid dynamics. So... You utilize a positive pressure means such as a Perry pump or crankcase pressure (crankcase pressure necessitating the need for a check valve to accomodate the positive/negative pressure pulse in the crankcase) which will provide a consistent pressure source which the regulator controls dependent on fuel draw (negative pressure seen at the fuel feed inlet) through the carb.

This isn't intended to be arguementative or otherwise but it seems there's a lot of mystery surrounding on-demand regulators which both the IB and Cline are- direct decendants of the Walbro system with the IB having a few design changes but still operating under the same principles. When looking at pressurized fuel systems, I want something that will provide consistent performance regardless of tank location, airplane attitude or fuel level; muffler pressure won't provide that (well, at least it never has for me).

I have to disagree. I have flown the IB regulator with an OS 1.60 with the tank 18" back in a pattern ship with no problems, on only muffler pressure. I will agree that crankcase pressure is more consistent and creates much more pressure. My statement is that on the IB regulator, I have flown both of the new FAI patterns P07 and F07 and never had a hickup on only muffler (actually pipe) pressure without any problems. In most cases muffler pressure is enough, however there may be instances where crankcase is needed, but until you find that problem, I wouldn't tap the case, just to tap it. If you don't have to tap the crank, then you don't have to remove the engine from the airplane.

Both regulators are similar to the Walbro system (my 3W-200 uses this, and I've put it through everything maneuver known to man..), except the Walbro does not pressurize the tank. It is relying on vacuum to pull fuel up there. By pressurizing the tank you are elminiating this. Fuel is already up to the diaphragm and you are just pulling from there. Essentially you are creating a situation very similar to if the fuel tank was right behind the motor. It takes very little tank pressure to force fuel to the back of the regulator so even if you do have a drop in pressure momentarily, it doesn't matter.

I personally do not like the perry pumps, I have seen too many little problems with them. I know guys are running them successfully, but a lot of guys are running the regulators as well.

In both of my primary ships, I have YS 1.60DZ's, so there are multiple options out there. The regulators do work.

Arch Stafford

Arch,

If you've managed with muffler pressure, that's great; installing pressure taps in crankcases is not something I'd choose to do if it wasn't necessary. But... That simply may not be enough in some instances where positive pressure may be needed. Free flowing exhaust systems may not provide enough pressure to the tank to push the fuel to the regulator depending on a variety of factors. The Walbro system doesn't pressurize the tank, it pressurizes the fuel (through the use of a diaphragm pump driven by crankcase pressure pulses) which is then regulated by the regulator (hmm, that sounds like an echo!). It's (the Walbro, that is) like using the IB regulator in conjunction with a Perry pump; the fuel is still pressurized- just not the tank.

Maybe what it boils down to is this: If I'm going to the trouble of hooking up a regulator style system- be it Cline or IB- I'll take the extra step and tap the crankcase to ensure I have an effective and consistent fuel supply- which is really what a pumped system is all about. That's just me, though, a glutton for punishment, I guess.

Good discussion, we need more of this!

That's what I was saying. The Iron Bay regulator includes a pressure tap in the package. In most cases, muffler pressure works fine, but if there is an instance, maybe an exceptionally long run, then you can tap the case. It just isn't necessary in all cases. The IB regulator works fine with 4 stroke motors, with just muffler pressure.

Arch