Yep, my thought as well.

But for your 2-meter e-stuff you can't go wrong with f3aunlimited.

Where and how did you even find that place?

I found it a couple of days ago while googling to look for a smaller electric to fly at local field where I can fly only small models.

I haven't ordered from them and haven't heard anything about them.

Ps. I decided to get the Osiris combo from f3aunlimited

Good choice i used to watch Andrew fly his a lot. Strange though he never let me fly it.

I got to fly one briefly and it flies very well even with some wind. Very impressive for a model of that size. I have a second-hand 2-meter Spark and there are some similarities there.

Tony F finished the final round with his Osiris in the last D7 contest, it's set up exactly like mine but the difference in the flights was pretty startling. The way he flew it made it more impressive than his flights with the Onas. That 62 inch Osiris is tops.
With the Monolog110 and Osiris 62 available, Great Planes will have a heck of a time making a Venus II replacement that's better than those for the money.
Chris...

I don't normally post here,(Stunthanger is my hangout) but I simply have to say, that your Venus is drop dead gorgeous!! If Great Planes did your covering scheme, they probably would have sold twice as many as they did.

Waiting for updates from Ihobby. Great planes is releasing something but not neccesarly a replacement.

I hope they upscale the Sequence. Nice little model as well. I have not flown it but have seen it fly in some pretty vicious wind and it held its own.

I don't normally post here,(Stunthanger is my usual hangout) but I got to tell you, your Venus is drop dead gorgeous!! If Greatplanes had there planes looking like this, they probably could have sold twice as many planes as they did.

F3A Unlimited will be stocking the Monolog 110 soon.

Did any hear what Great Planes new release is? I looked through some of the photos but didn't find any thing.

I am contemplating going to gas with my new Venus 2. I am sure that there has been discussion elsewhere in these 68 pages of info, does anybody have any suggestions for max CC (I am thinking about a DLE 30). Issues such as prop length, fuel tank size, problems with the ignition interfering with the reciever, weight, weight and balance, anything else I don't know about......I have been using as OS120 AX on my last Venus and know nothing about gas. I guess an obvious question is do I gain anything by going to gas besides the obvious fuel cost differential.

Thanks guys,

Steve

I have a JC28 on one of my Venus's. Great combo. I did have someone build me a longer gear as I was cutting a lot of grass with the stock one.

JVB, thanks for responding. Can you tell me about any issues with items I mentioned? How about going with a 3 bladed prop to cut down the diameter for ground clearance? Again, I don't know anything about gas but know there is an issue with the reciever being a foot? away from the ignition box doo dad for electrical interference. Is there a noticiable improvement with thrust/speed over a larger glow such as the OS 120? PS welcome to winter over there in Nebraska.....

Steve

Yeah, -3 degrees this morning and six inches of snow on the ground. Good building weather.

I'm running 2.4 GHz. I have the ignition and Rx separated as far as possible. I have the tank on the cg and the ignition up by the firewall with the Rx back behind the tank. No issues so far. I am also running a single 2S A123 pack to both Rx and ignition. I drop the voltage down for the ignition unit using a diode. No issues so far.

I have quite a few flights on this setup. Plenty of thrust and speed. My other Venus has a YS 110 in it. Maybe not quite the pull of the YS, but plenty.

I'm going mostly gas due to the economy of the fuel. I have an 8-ounce tank in the Venus and can easily get 10 minute flights with plenty left over. I don't fly at full throttle the entire flight though.

A 3-bladed prop will give you more ground clearance. I have no experience with them though.

I believe I posted some pics of my setup earlier in this thread.

Good luck.

I am in the process of recovering my Venus. I wanted to do one more covering job before I hang up the iron. I was careful about getting the covering up to temperature before pulling but the red still left some dye behind. Is their anyway to get the color out of the balsa?

I am still considering adding some side force generators. Just wondering what your thoughts are. I am thinking an inch tall at the servo bay area and at the wing tip.

Patrick, I have been through the recovering process with the Venus II and was able to get most of the red (and blue) out with Monokote Trim Solvent, but not all. Still some reddish and bluish tints to the wood. No worries, however, if you're recovering with Monokote because even the white will cover it pretty well, as well as Ultracote.

I don't know anything about SFG's and whether they would help or hinder performance.

The Venus is down to the bones. Thanks Bob, I will have to try the Trim Solvent. My last recover was a Katana MD. The transparent left a lot of red pigment behind and I thought the white which I recovered it with would hide it. The spar and ribs where stained and they showed right through the white. Ugly.

On the Venus the blue staining is what I am worried about. Once I get some trim solvent. I will post some before and after prep work. From what I have read, the Monokote color is incorporated into the adhesive. No wonder it get driven into the wood. The staining doesn't seem to happen with the white. White just separates from the clear and leaves the adhesive behind. But, that's easily removed with some sticky tape or scraping. Their doesn't seem to be white pigment in to wood or its not as noticeable.

This will probably be my last recover so I am going to tempt to the best job I can.

What about a light primer coat of paint. Wouldn't that hide the stain, seal up the wood grain and help with adhesion? If so, what paint would be best?

Patrick

Patrick,

More info on removing Monokote [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148519]here[/link].

Google keywords "removing Monokote" and there are numerous links you can check out.

I think if you remove the solid-colored pigment and are left with a little residue it might not show through. Didn't show thru on mine at all.

Photo of mine, may she RIP, before a mid-air on the 12th flight after a winter refurbishment project, colliding with Ken Velez in a pattern contest. Kinda lucky, in a way, because I think Ken's plane cost about $5000 and he suffered only a damaged rudder. Knocked off the rudder in fact, and he landed safely and some other guys found the rudder in an onion field.

Nice; real nice.....

I GOT IT! I GOT IT!

Their was a sanding sponge laying on my bench and I couldn't resist the urge to start sanding it. The sanding sponge quickly filed up so I decided to wash it up before I put away. And again not being able to resist attempting to wet sand it I gave a few strokes and the color began to immediately roll out. Like sanding paint before its fully cured. So its not just pigment it is a mix of adhesive and color in the deep in the wood grain. I found that using a combination of circular strokes and strokes along the grain is pulling it right up.

Really happy about that...

Wow, never heard of that method, but glad to hear it's working for you.

Please post some photos as you go along. Looking forward to your final result!

Here is the before and after. Sanding with wet sanding sponge. I think the water helps swell the grain and push the adhesive to the surface and it can then be rolled out.