Hey Mike, sorry to bring this off topic slightly but how is the 110 version coming along?

Sorta there, sorta on the backburner as far as priorities, but at the same time VERY close. just whenever I manage to get a couple of weeks to make the composites (probably soon) then I'll fly it and see how it stands. So, my GUESS would be sometime in the spring.

-M

Mike, your answer was specifically vague.. great job.. After planes you could become a politician.

CHUCK

You should here him after he has knocked back a few he has my vote!!!lol

gary

Well it's hard to answer a question that you don't really have an answer to. I have learned NEVER say "it will be done by....." because life happens...and then you're doomed.

It's designed and framed, it needs the plugs made for the composites. Once that's done, it needs to be finished and flown (2 versions, YS110 and an electric). Once I'm satisfied that it's "right" and I make any small adjustments to get it to fly like I want it, I'll start making kits.

between now and then I have kits to make, planes to build, a rebuild job to complete, and a prototype to finish....along with this family annoyance (LOL). Not to mention right now I have a serious sore throat, and trying not to get sick. And of course the stands....

That more clear?

So, sometime this spring....LOL

-Mike

Mike,

If you change your mind and decide that you want to get sick, I've got a lovely case of Pneumonia. You know, sharing is caring!

Sounds like things are going well for you. Take care, call me sometime.

Ryan

Guys,

Periodically I've had some people write me and ask me specific questions about how things are installed in my plane, or where they are and other questions to help with builds. I've decided to just post a bunch of the pics, so that as people ask, they are here to reference. On the chin setup, it does not fit that poorly...I only had the front screw in as a demonstration and it wasnt aligned correctly...the chin fits perfectly when mounted. Here is the setup that I'm running in my plane with servo choices.

YS 1.70DZ with 18.1 X 11 prop…I REALLY like this prop. Just a hair faster than the 10 on a windy day, which is nice, but gets rid of the loud bark too, so it will make noise much easier. I have about 25 flights on this combo and really like it.

CG ¼� behind leading edge of wing tube

Stab incidence 0

Wing incidence: a robart meter pointer thickness below .5 degrees positive

Radio Equipment all Futaba.

Elevator: 9254
Rudder: 9155
Aileron: 9154
Throttle 9650


Elevator

Up 13 degrees

Down 12 degrees



Elevator Snap

Up 20

Down 17



Rudder

22 degress right and left



Rudder Snap

16 degrees right and left



Aileron

Up 13 degrees

Dn 13 degrees

No differential, this is nice!!



Aileron Snap

Up 17 degrees

Dn 17 degrees

Pictures of the fin area,

Arch

Pictures of the subfin and nose ring installation,

Arch

Radio Area, fuel tank, battery, and header tank.

Thanks Arch! Hopefully that helps some.

-Mike

Mike !!

I`ll take care of the plugs for your 110 V3
anymore excuses? <G>
Bryan H

Hi all,

today I finally had warm temps to do my primer.

I finished the fiberglass / micro balloons base off with 220 grit and the block, like I was preaching back a few posts. I got her back on the scales - I am now + 2.65 oz for my fiberglass base, way better than I ever imagined - oh yea happy with that....

Next I taped and masked off the entire plane and installed my nose mount for my painting jig. Mixed up a 3 oz batch of PPG K-36 and with a 2" foam roller, rolled out first a heavy coat then a light coat. I also rolled out the rudder. Once happy with that I sprayed the cowl and chin with my new primer gun a friend gave me. He bought it off the Matco tool truck and it works really well, better than the Cobalt gun I got from Lowes. I installed this 15 dollar pressure gauge - you really need that gauge....

Rolling really kills a lot of the pin holes after I was finished I didn't see a single pin hole.

Here are the product I used today.

5-Star solvent cleaner wipe your plane down with a good quality cleaner before you paint.... - auto paint store

PPG DT 870 reducer - auto paint store

PPG K-36 Primer - auto paint store

PPG 201 Primer Activator - auto paint store

Masking tapes , - local harware

Masking Paper local harware

Sticky Micky Custom paint masking material - dixieart.com

3M respirator - auto paint store

Unless your only painting one plane this year buy all your product in larger quantities at your local auto paint store.....

Wow Mike..sounds like Bryan has fixed your 1.10 problem...

Arch

Here is the primed plane, cowl and chin. I'll be glazing and sanding tomorrow. I start with 180 grit and finish with 320. I'll be sanding about 90% of this primer base off. Should be fun


Not sure yet if I'll do another light primer coat or go right to a white base coat yet...

I also just got in the full catalog of SEM candy and opaque colors. I'll be having fun with this paint scheme !!!

An you thought you were done with ?'s. Can't seem to find this anywhere. Is it a tank surport an tie down.
I am planning to monokoteing, do I need to beef up any one area?

Well in THAT case....you can take this thing home with you this weekend and plug away [8D]

Cool, that'll work!

-Mike

Wendell yes that is the fuel tank mount.

No beefing necessary. Watch the weight!

-Mike

I've been meaning to ask this...
Using ballpark figures, what kind of $$ investment are we looking at here?
The airguns, respirators, reducers, etc.

For Dean's stuff....you probably don't want to know.

The good news is most of it is tooling, meaning you buy it once and then you always have it. But you get what you pay for.

-Mike

Hi All,

had a really great day for sanding primer, wind gusts to 25 mph really help to keep the dust away....

I spent almost 4 hours block sanding, sanded off about 90% of all that primer I rolled on yesterday. Caught a couple high spots and sanded through the cloth in a few spots. Not a big deal as I'll just do little patches here and there. As this is my personal plane I rather spend a little more time here and there and have a better end product anyhow....

The big deal about this phase is you really start developing the plate flatness that I spoke about. The plane feels great and I also sanded off a bit more of the micro balloons. I did most of the work with 150 grit. Once I get my patches done I'll feather those in and go over it with 220. It really seems like I am on the light side of things here and I did really like that new primer gun. I will most likely shot a final coat of primer and finish sand that with 400 grit for my color base.

looks like I never primed it

Hi Mark,

go to your local automotive paint store as prices vary. But you will be surprised at how inexpensive some of the products are. The same 3m respirator that costs $30.00 at home Depot or Lowes is $22.00 at the automotive paint store , I was very surprised by that. Also the 5-Star cleaner is about $22.00

The PPG paint supplies are a lot cheaper in quantities of one pint, quart and gallon. The DT 870 is less the $30.00 gallon. I think a quart of K-36 with activator is around $60.00 - I'll have to dig up my receipts as I stocked up on most of my PPG supplies a few months ago. But the bottom line is buying your products from a professional auto paint store in slightly larger quantities is a lot cheaper than buying the same products from the RC supplier that everybody uses. Now if your only doing one plane it's a better deal to buy your paints from the RC supplier no doubt. I am not trying to bash their pricing or services -

As it stands now I'll be painting at least 4 planes in the near future, I just need to get the most product for the least $$$


As far as paint guns go, you can get nice low end hvlp guns from places like harbor freight for around $40.00 or less. You can get a decent air compressor for under $200.00, you will need an air cleaner. Of course the the high end is $400 or more for a professional hvlp gun like the Sata MiniJet 4 with micro air regulator.

Shop around and get what you need. Start with the less expensive and only spend the money you need too..

Hi Dean,

I've seen it many times before on models and always wondered why the primer or undercoat is sanded almost completly off... It would seem that you're doing it to save weight. It would also seem that you are using the primer as a filler. I always thought that the purpose of primer was to provide a uniform base for the final colour to adhere to. If the primer is sanded off, how well does the paint stick and cover? Perhaps if the primer was not sanded off a lighter coat of colour could be used...

I'm sure there must be very good reasons etc.

Cheers
Jason.

What is the purpose of the box that the throtle servo sets in,in the radio compartment photo.