Wendell,
The OS 160 will run on normal size fuel tubing. DON'T use a fuel filler valve. They sometimes leak and they add weight. Fuel line setup is simple: 2 lines - run the overflow line out to the bottom of the plane somewhere. Run the other line from the clunk to a Tettra Large 90 degree fuel outlet (part # 4214 - Central Hobbies has these) located on the side of the fuse near the nose of the plane. This will bring the fuel outside of the plane so that you can fill and drain the tank as well as pinch the fuel line if you want to. About 1 - 2 inches in front of that fitting, install another one to bring everything back inside the airplane. Attach a fuel line to this fitting inside the airplane and then run it through the firewall to your pump inlet. Make sure you install a good fuel filter in this line so that the pump is protected. Then just run your pump outlet to the needle valve. I like to install the needle valve on the airplane NOT the engine. Easy. The only thing you need to be careful of is the pressure line that goes from your engine crankcase pressure port to the pump. Make sure this line is short (about 3" or less). To fill and drain your tank, just remove the short hose from the forward fitting on the outside of the plane and attach that hose (still connected to the rear fitting) to your fuel pump - the rear fitting is connected to your fuel tank - remember? I'll try to get some pic's for you when I get back in the shop.

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic

Pitures are worth a thousand words, no what I mean, Will be waiting befor I place an order.

Anybody know were these go, Better late than never. These are for the BM3

Hi All,

I finished wet sanding my primed fuse today, I went to 600 wet. She is now 100% ready for base color. I am working up scheme drawings. I've attached a rough drawing of another "Fire Dragon" scheme, taking what I did on the Red VF3 I did last summer and really pushing it a little further with the tribal look. I am also working on the Dragon Head graphic that will be on the nose of the plane.

I am trying to create a scheme with no straight line segments, eveything will be done in spray mask, designed on my computer and cut with my vinyl cutter. I am fairly close with the basic layout. I am just figuring out how to do the Dragon graphic....

It's been too cold and windy to do any painting here the last few days and tomorrow looks like a great practice day. I hope to be out flying

What I should of said in the last post was that I am NOT going to use any 3M Blue line tape to do this scheme. All vinyl spray mask.

And yes my ADS is - as always kicking in....


I drew up and built my new prototype Mini Black Magic Foamie - It's got a 24" wingspan, made from 6mm depron, all up weight of 4.75 oz with a 20g CD motor, 3c 350mah TP pack, 3 6g servos, berg UL rx and 10 amp esc.....

It's designed for high speed aerobatics, flew it today in some really stiff winds. The winds where over 10 mph and gusty.

And boy was it a blast. Now it will fly slow, hover and 3D. But this little bugger is designed for speed baby speed....


I flew it about 6 times today - a little over 60 mins. and I am still smiling....

enjoy!

wlcornelius:

Follow this thread for your answer:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_68..._2/key_/tm.htm

..from post #35

Hi Wendall,

I tried to answer your personal email but you have a tight spam filter and I can't reply to your personal emails.

those are braces that attach to the front of the turtle deck former and secure to the top rails....

I'll did up a picture...

dean

O.K in this piture where I inserted the arrow is a wing nut bolt, my ? is shouldn't the hole that the bolt go's threw be elongated so when the wing adjuster is adjustedthe wing can move an wouldn't it be better for the adjuster to be in the front?

Hey Wendell,

the plane uses 2 adjusters on each wing panel. the nylon bolt goes into the hole near the wing tube.

where you have the bolt should be an adjuster.

Wendell, again it goes back to that prototype kit

Cass wanted to use hard points in the wings instead of the standard root. He was going to cut off the rear of that front doubler and use 2 more adjusters there.

Now, what you have is an arrangement similar to the electric set ups. You just have a little extra doubler there LOL but that's not necessarily a bad thing at all.

Now about the question: yes and no. You want to open the hole up just enough to accept the bolt and not bind the wing if/when you adjust it. The best advice is to set it on the table at about .4 degrees positive and only open up just enough to pass the bolt without binding. I garauntee that if you do it that way, you will be in good shape and not have to open it any more. The more you remove in the hole the more prone you are to having some type of a failure over time.

So, just do it that way and call it a day. It doesn't take me more than a few passes with a round file and I'm done.

-Mike

That photo is not mine, it was in the build tread, I just edited it with arrow to ask this ?

Ok that threw me for a loop

I assume yours have the other set of holes in the front correct?

If so the adjusters go in the front hole. Don't open the bolt hole too much, only enough to pass the bolt. if you find you need to adjust the incidence beyond what the bolt hole will allow (I have yet to see this) then just elongate it SLIGHTLY with a small round file.

-Mike

For YS 170DZ,
Which Muffler? HATORI 821?
Which header HATORI #822 or 823??
Which tetra tank 18oz?? or 23oz??

Also for the landing gear,
what is the source?
part number of the landing gear?,
part number of wheel pants??, wheels?

821
822
23

Comp Arf
Comp Arf Integral
Bolly F3A small 2 1/2" dubro super light



-M

Ok Dean, now it's to get focused again and get back on this thread. You know all of us out here count on you, so it's time to get back to work young man!
(LOL)
Lawrence

HI Larry,

no worries, looks like I'll be painting 3 vf3s starting next week. I've got 2 customer planes to finish.

I've been flying and practicing a lot the last couple weeks. Just trying to get a balance between shop time and field time....

My plane is sitting in final primer and ready for color.


cheers all !

dean

Hey OS160 guys,
I have an ES high volume pipe 22" long 7/8 inlet 14 " to 1st baffle and a Hatori 907 header 5" tube length. Running the VP30 and the Jon lowe set up. (Have run this set-up {but with out the pipe }with total success) Anyone have any experience with this combo and tuning?....... 18.1x 10.1 APC 15% Cool power Syn. Type F plug

Hey Dean,

Putting the a little glaze on and I hope to be in white base by the weekend. I have about got the latter look off of the sides and filled a few little dings and the last primer coat will be very soon. Oh yeah, we found some servos that will work on the foamy and now all we need is the motor, prop, battery and ESC. I think Chris is more excited about the foamy I'm just teasing he can't wait for that VF3 to get ready. I'll get with you on that spray mask for the letters and the rudder

Lawrence

HEY DUDE ARE YOU THERE FOCUS!!!! [sm=49_49.gif]

Hey guys... got another Black Magic V3 coming out of the hangar soon. Will be ready to fly in a couple weeks, a few things to figure out yet. Will be electric with equipment to be named later, but it finally looks like a finished airplane. It is being built by my retired father, Al Messer, and when i first saw it I swear it was the biggest pattern plane I had ever seen... but once it got covered (yes, not painted), everything seemed to come together.

Good airplane Mike, looking forward to see how it flys!

Tom Messer

Looks great! if you have any questions or concerns let me know, I'll see if I can help you work them out. I'm up to my ears in electrics right now, so my mind is on it.

it is pretty big isn't it?

I think you'll like the way it flies. What was your last pattern plane if I may ask? (curious)

-Mike

Thanks Mike... I didn't do anything myself except provide the equipment, Dad did the work. I am okay on the electric set up.. this will be the fifth electric pattern ship I've had... I have an idea what I'm going to power it with, just not quite ready to say what it will be without a little testing... all else fails, I'll go back to the tried and true. I can say that it will be a little on the heavy side, the equipment not the plane, but VERY affordable. If it doesn't work... well then it will be slightly lighter and a little less affordable.

Should be fun... by the way, my last plane was an E-Pinnacle, before that a Genesis... Focus, Impact, Eclipse... Still have a few left, a few are with new owners, others are in landfills...

I actually had two of the eight E-Pinnacles made at one point, sold one that was built (not by me) and the other that was still in kit form... the best airplane I have ever flown by far (haven't flown yours yet BTW)... just couldn't justify keeping the planes. I originally planned on flying Masters last year at the Nats, but a job change made that a no-go... that's why I had two of them. Anyway, both are with new owners, all that are left are the Genesis (flew like cr@p at first... now I like it quite a bit) and Eclipse (nice flying plane, outdated though, but kept for sentimental reasons).

Anyway, once the weather turns, and the pieces are delivered from the brown airplane delivery truck, the Black Magic will fly... should be fun, looking forward to it.

Tom M.

if you like the Pinnacle, you'll fall in love with this one [8D]

I have a feeling I know which direction you're leaning....chinese motor perhaps? In the "definitely under $100" range?

We have played with a few. The real jewel in the bunch is the HXT 63-64B. It's basically an AXI F3A. And it behaves very similar, and we couldn't kill it....in fact it has now been in a total out, and survived. That one works. As for the rest, some do ok, some do sort of ok, some are junk.

Speed controls, still can't beat the Castle 85hv all around. There is a chinese 100A HV speed control, but it has issues. As in, it skips timing like the old castles a few years back before they upgraded thier firmware.

Packs? hit or miss. Usually don't last long, or they're bricks. the smaller ones are ok, but anything in the 4000+ range, they need some work still. I still use vampowers because they are solid as a rock and reasonably priced, and come with actual support.

This plane needs a 20x15 prop and about 235+ kvs though. It's draggy. it penetrates well, but if the wind gets really bad, that extra pitch is gold.

Just some stuff I learned lately.....

-Mike

Mike,

You are a wise man... you are pretty close.we'll see what we turn up. Have heard good and bad... have only experienced good so far... we'll see where it goes.

Gotta be honest Mike... when I first saw the unfinished fuse... It looked outrageously large... The Pinnacle was big, but maybe the paint made it look smaller, but this thing looked huge. Now with the parts all attached, gotta say it looks just about right. Don't know how it will fly, but I'm pleased so far. If it looks right, it will fly right... sometimes you just need to find that sweet spot.

I'll know in a few weeks... but right now I have to figure out how to make my standard family scheme ( some five planes now) stand out...

Tom M.

edited for content