You oughta kit that puppy. I'm looking for an indoor pattern foamy now and it would be fun to have a clone of a 2m plane.

i second that!

i have an axi 2208-34 that needs a home...

Let’s get this thread back on topic…building VF3’s!

Not being one who enjoys repairing gear blocks, I’ve added some 6 oz CF to secure the front of the gear block since there are only shear joints preventing the plate from twisting out. I’ll also add reinforcements up the sides once the stringers and sides are cut for the gear.

Looks good!

After seeing some failures on the 2s, I discovered that the main weakness in the 2 was that the edge is essentially only bonded to the 1/8" doubler at the sides. As long as you never have a bad landing or don't drop it in hard in grass, you won't break it. (err ok SHOULDN'T, you should see what mine went through!)

From the pic you can see how I addressed this on the VF3s. All it needed was that extra little doubler over the top, and all is well. A couple bazillion flights and not one VF3 gear failure to date.

One thing to take SPECIAL note of is that any time you are glueing to the carbon laminate, you MUST rough up the carbon with 80 grit paper (knock the shine OFF) and clean it thoroughly with acetone before glueing to it.

Scott if you'd like I can drop you another piece of nomex in the mail tonight seeing as how you used it to go behind the gear block.

There have also been some reports of flexing of the electric firewalls on the 2s from a couple of folks. Take time to insure that with your motor mounted to the plane, you don't have any flex. If you do, brace up the area. We haven't experienced the problem here but after sharing a lot of info, ideas and pics, it's definitely worth mentioning. Because during the building stage if you have this issue, it's not a big deal to brace it up. After your plane is flying, it's a lot more difficult. the problem I have is that I have not personally seen one flex for myself, so it's hard to figure out how to avoid it if it happens. I've been working on a torque box mount for months and every time I get one done, I end up scrapping it because I hate it. However in the future at some point I'll redo the electric firewalls for this option.

I'm about to leave for Crowley and will be gone until monday, so if it's an emergency call me on my cell and leave a message.

Cyaz!
-Mike

Oh yeah LOTS of new pics up in the gallery on my site.....

-M

Thanks for the offer Mike (gotta love that support!) but I'll laminate some 1/16th crossgrain balsa with 3/4 oz cloth (ala Brio floor) for that front piece. That should give me a lightweight, weather proof structure with ample strength (I always worry about flying in the rain with an electric!)

I do what I can!

Yeah I usually just use black dope under there since it weighs zilch and you don't have to worry about fuel. but as many times as I have seen us fly in the rain lately, that's NOT a bad idea. (Anybody remember Emory's round at the nats in the downpour at this year's Nats? We looked like we jumped in a lake. That's ONE way to get a cheer from the nats crowd!)

-Mike

Also post up your battery support tray when you get there. I am always looking for a better way to build that mousetrap using as much existing structure as possible.

-Mike

It may be a few months before I get to that so here are a few pictures from my Prestige to spark some ideas. I utilize the gear plate to attach a 3/4" nylon strap (much lighter than Velcro) that runs down and around the wing tube and Velcro’s back onto itself. (Gear plate and wing tube are after all the strongest structures!)

A secondary Velcro strap then goes perpendicular to the main strap. That strap is secured underneath by 5/16� CF push rod material (used in a couple places as seen in the pictures.)

I’m sure I’ll do something similar on the VF3.

(My datalogger goes in that 'open' piece of Velcro)

Here are some pics of Arch flying the Black Magic Foamy. He had a big grin and I think eveybody enjoyed the show. The last mod will be to increase the span of the alierons about 3/4". Seems like eveybody wants a kit and a couple guys even want RTF versions.

We are in Crowley for the Cajun Nats. We had a great practice day with great weather, looks like the meet should be well attended.

I promise I'll be back building 2m aircraft next week. Just had to much fun with this little foamy distraction....

cheers!

Dean

Nice foamy Dean. Can I get a couple? Mike Mueller

Hi Mike,

Just got back from the Cajun Nats, what a great time. Thanks to Jon Martin and everybody for a great event.

I first was interested in designing a pattern like foamy that I can fly during my lunch hour at the office. To practice rudder corrections and rolling. Mainly just to get stick time when I can't get to the field. And wow - I have gotten overwhelming response from everyone.

I'll be hand cutting kits in the very near future. I am considering a number of different price points from a simple foam and carbon only kit with a simple graphic, to a multi-color vinyl graphics kit and all the way to a complete and assembled RTF version with motor, battery, esc, servos, rec and lipo. I've actually had a couple of requests for full turn-key foamys. After the intensive flight testing program completed by Arch at the Cajun Nats. Seems to do all the typical 3d foamy stuff very good as well as pattern style aerobatics. The plane is very stable and smooth in flight or wildly 3d aerobatic. It also flys well in strong winds.

All the color on this prototype is vinyl that I designed and cut - it added less than .1 oz to the final weight

I have one final aileron mod and optional side force generators. I should have the final prototype in the air soon.

Right now it's a very light weight foamy built out of 6mm depron with minimal reinforcements, Arch had zero problems with flex or twist of the fuse, but when flown at higher speeds there is some twist. for the more casual flyer I can do a tougher/stiffer 9 mm depron fuse with a weight increase.

The current set up is at 14 oz which seems good for a 39" sq. wing/fuse foamy. With the china motor and a 1300 3cell pack flight times are around 20 mins. And I think on the final version I maybe able to get another full oz out of the plane.

I'll be ordering the depron and finalizing the design this week. I maybe able to ship kits by the end of the month. I know the first kit is going to Mike Hester - he is first on the list.

If anyone wants to pre-order the foamy, just send email to deanfunk(at)mindspring.com, I'll be updating my website soon once I get pricing finalized. I'll keep you all posted....

I can attest to the fact that this little bugger can handle some strong winds. I saw the plane fly in Crowley in steady 15 knot winds with little trouble. Nice little plane Dean!

Hey Dean. 2 winters ago I built 14 foamies most of them turnkey for the pattern flyers around here. Only a few of us still fly them. I love my little electrics. They are great for getting stick time as you say at times and places that the big ones can't. I've designed a couple and they are pretty good. I like the looks of yours. The graphic packages sure work well too. Would be nice if you could get light vinyl for them. thanks, Mike

This is a great flying little foamy. Bret and I had a ball with it. It is not an indoor F3A type foamy, it is too large for that and heavy, but it is great for outdoor flying and playing around. Bret and I put it through its paces this weekend as you can see with the pics above. Even in mild winds, the plane still flew pretty well...I'm on Dean's list too..I've gotta have a couple of these....

Arch

Yep cool foamy....is mine done yet?????

Ok for those interested, I have begun a step by step instruction process on my forums on my site. This is the result of YEARS of trial and error and hundreds of planes. Here's the link:

[link=http://www.customairframes.com/caaforum/showthread.php?t=93]Glassing a wood fuselage[/link]

Enjoy!!!

-Mike

Oh and by the way, I will be adding and editing in a lot of detailed pics of the process as I take them. I usually have my hands full at that point so it takes a bit to get some good pics.


-Mike

Dean,
Waht is the Laser module that you recomend for VF3 wing and stab alignment? I think it has to be a cross laser. It seems there are lot of laser modules out there and I am not sure which one to choose.



Thanks
Srikar.

Hey all,
OS 160. What Mount?

I am using the Bushnell Pivot Point (Model 82897 I think). Works well, very adjustable from a mounting/stand viewpoint and not very expensive. Got mine on eBay for less than $20 shipped.

Woodie

Hey Jon,
Running your set up with os 160 and love it! What mount are you using on a V3?

Hi Srikar,

Been using the Bushnell and a Black and Decker X3 laser level.

You need to do hard measurements on the bench for the actual wing and stab alignments. I am finishing my cores now and will be doing the alignments on the VF3 build in about a week.

Hi All !

okay okay - it's been like 3 months and I had a few other side projects cooking, meets, districts, road trips, foamys, etc etc etc..... I know I know SO.

Let's get this build thread back on track. Here is the basic fuse crutch fresh out of the jig. It's under 10 oz.

Fuse flooring:

I drew up a temple of the flooring. I am building one of Mike's early kits and I do not have the laser cut flooring. I took measurements off the plans. I butt glued 2 pieces of 1/8 x 4" wood and had at it with the knife. There is a bit of sand to fit and triming to get it perfect. Take your time fitting the flooring as a messy job here really looks bad and is hard to hide, there is nothing like perfectly clean balsa floor. Trail fit all the flooring do not glue anything yet.

Landing gear block doubler

Locate these cool carbon composite doublers, they will need sanded a bit, mine had some CNC flash. Trim the balsa flooring at the block, make it a nice fit. I roughed up the mating areas of the main doubler and clean it with acetone. I used west systems 105/206 for the block doubler.

First install the block doublers. Then fit all the balsa flooring and CA with thin then follow gaps with thick CA. I run a bead of thin CA on both sides of the flooring.