Hi ,
Sorry to lead you on a wild goose chase. I can't find it either now. The article was in the K-factor last year I think around last Sept. Anyway search OS160 VS YS160 and you'll fid some info on RCU.
RC11 I'll Keep Looking.

Hi srekar,
I Found it!!! Go to WWW.rcaerobats.net ond scroll down to My OS160set up. Everything you need is there. I ran the stock bearing for a while maybe 25 flights before is went. Shame on you OS. They know the bearing always fails and they fail to fix the problem. Other than that we got super service from a great engine.
RC11

Hi RC11,
Thanks for the help. Found that.

Srikar.

What is the good source for balsa wood. I tried to check the LHS and the 1/16 x 4 x 36 (Midwest) sheet is about 33 - 40 grams...way too heavy compared to 12 grams (required weight per recommendation).

So my question is, what is the best source to get contest balsa sheeting? I am thinking to order 100 sheets from tower, pick them after using scale and then return the heavy one back to tower? Is this works OK? Any online source, which only sells contest balsa?

Thanks
Srikar.

I found LHS that carries contest grade balsa. http://www.virginiahobbysport.com/ \
Thanks
Srikar.

Hi Srikar,

here are some links to balsa companys:

http://www.lonestar-models.com/

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig

http://www.balsausa.com

http://www.specializedbalsa.com

http://www.dbalsa.com/


your best bet is to call these places and ask for hand selected 4-6 pound contest balsa wood. And your right you may have to order 100 sheets to get the 40 sheets at 12 grams. usually the midwest wood at the LHS is the worst choice.

It's important to get the lightest 1/16" sheeting wood and the wood for the wing and stab tips, leading edges, tip blocks for the wings, stabs and fin and the capping wood for the ailerons and stabs. Also the 2" wood for the lower rudder block and lower fuse block. You can hollow these large blocks to 1/4-3/8 wall thickness.

HI All,

Well I am slowly getting back into the swing of things around here. I got to do my first pattern meet in 2 1/2 months this past weekend, without any practice, flew well and had a fun time in Jacksonville. Those Jacksonville guys, Billy, Patrick, Brian, Rufus put on a great meet, I did have a blast. thanks all!

Well I've been working on some drawings for a VF3 foamy. Here is the plane fitted together. I'll get the spars and everything glued together soon. Should be fun. We are having our D3 Districts Championships in two weekends and I hope to spend as much time until then practicing. I'll be working up the rest of this build shortly after. I hope to be able to paint my two VF3 in the next month or so. The V2 is painted, I need to do a little touch up on the clear, I had to sand some bugs that face planted in a couple of spots but it's basically done and ready for monokote and final assembly.

So stay tuned, I know a few of you guys are getting started build but I expect the majority of guys out there are still lining things up to start their winter projects.

cheers, dean

I'm beginning to think you have a serious case of ADD

-M

Beginning to think?? I've known that for a long time.... Oh well...keeps him busy...

Arch

Well, people have asked me: "How fast can you really build one of these planes"? I'm going to find out soon. Mine went in last week at Jacksonville to some kind of radio lock out. Before you ask, no, the carbon doesn't have anything to do with it. (That is a myth substantiated by some facts but really does not apply to our planes).

So, after I get the rest of the kits taken care of, I will be doing a wide open build on a plane along side Emory's electrics. Those are almost done, so they won't interfere with each other.

My prediction: 2 weeks or less from kit to flying. NOT glassed and painted unless I'm really blistering in speed. I know for a fact that's at least a week alone, and I don't really have it. So my plan is a full build in monokote, no sacrifices. Probably a basic kit, just to keep me in Black Magics until next season's planes are done. Man what a year.

I am opening the support forums today so I'll be mailing passwords. If you do not get yours by Friday, please email me and let me know what your registered name is. There's not much there right now, but that is the place to ask questions and share info and feedback. I think you'll like what it becomes over the next few weeks.

Ok Dean, get back to building actual VF3s

-Mike

Man I need one of those for the backyard!!


__Chris

I noticed alot of changes between the V2 and the V3. I am looking at building a V2 from scratch. Could I take the changes that I noticed and apply them to the V2? If not what changes would you say could be implemented on the V2 frame?

Thanks

Uh-Oh... I'm wondering if the 110 sized variant is gonna see daylight now []

Flying would be so much more fun without these pesky crashes

I would suggest building a V2.2 from scratch or getting one of mikes VF3 kit's .

There are major differences between the designs and the VF3 design is proven. With that being said the V2.2 is a fine airframe for all AMA classes, even FAI in the right hands. The VF3 is totally refined design and really different than the V2.

I am sure Mike and Archie will chime in here and cover this....

I'll jump in the best I can here. The 2.2 is a more than capable airframe up to and through Masters. There are things the 3 does better, but at the same time, the size of the 3 takes some getting used to. If you dont want to buy a VF3 kit, and want to scratch build one, then build the 2.2. The changes that are made with the rudder area and such do make a big difference. The VF3 is really designed for the upper classes. It will fly the lower classes well also, but certainly not needed for the AMA classes,

Hope this helps,

Arch

I'll jump in the best I can here. The 2.2 is a more than capable airframe up to and through Masters. There are things the 3 does better, but at the same time, the size of the 3 takes some getting used to. If you dont want to buy a VF3 kit, and want to scratch build one, then build the 2.2. The changes that are made with the rudder area and such do make a big difference. The VF3 is really designed for the upper classes. It will fly the lower classes well also, but certainly not needed for the AMA classes,

Hope this helps,

Arch

Search the V2 thread for the 2.2 mods they are not hard to do. I have flown my V2.2 in both Masters and FAI and the airplane was the least of my problems. I did fly the prototype V3 and it does fly better but not enough to abandon the previous version if you started one. You will like either one. They are both great airplanes.

I received my V2.2 stuff last week from Mike. Everything except the rudder made it in good shape. Mike said I'd have the replacement this week. All the orders for balsa and parts started arriving yesterday so I'll be getting started this weekend. It will be a lot of firsts for me (first time with foam, first time glass and paint fuse, etc), but I'm looking forward to the challenges. Troy Newman will be guiding me on this build so I don't screw things up too much. With help from Mike and Troy, this should be a nice flying plane.

Yes the 110 will see the light soon. Not as soon as I had hoped, but hey, I roll with the punches the best I can

The differences between the 2 and 3: night and day. The VF3 is a totally different airplane. If you want a 3, I would suggest building a 3. But if you are not planning to compete in FAI on a national level any time soon, the V2.2 is probably just as good of a choice (some would argue better).

The fuselage is taller on the 3, and more narrow and constant through the rear of the wing.

ALL of the VF3's flying surfaces are thicker and have thick, blunt trailing edges. The Vertical stab for instance is extremely thick and has a 3/8" trailing edge. The rudder is very powerful.

Some of the less dramatic changes are the belly pan and the construction, it's just more simplified.

-Mike

I know, I know..... but I can't help it.

good news my #2 VF3 build fuse is almost complete and after the cajun nats, I'll get busy with the write ups. I've got the fuse done to the point of aligning the wings, which means I only have to do the lower cores and blocks, and glue on the cowl - but it's moving forward after my long break from the shop.

so here is my second version of the VF3 foamie, On #1 I tried some stiff but heavy 10mm depron on the fuse and some heavy pushrod guides etc.... It did fly well but with the weight at 16 oz it didn't 3d well.

on the v2 version I've enlarged the elevators and rudder, went to a 6mm depron fuse and the basic airframe is already 1 3/4 oz lighter. I'll be going with a smaller esc, and a smaller rec. so I am aiming at less than 14 oz RTF. It's a big foamie with a 39" wing and fuse.

Should be flying it at the Cajun Nats....

enjoy!

dean

Boy...am I gonna beat the crap out of that thing this weekend

Arch

I'm bringing my camcorder...

Arch,

It is not the POS we had at PIK.. I saw Arch try to kill a plane...lol

scott a.

Unsuccessfully you might add...you should come to Louisiana this weekend..just to get out....

Arch

oaky I know, but I promise to get back to real 2m Black Magics..


here she is ready for Arch to beat the crap out of, but she is so pretty for a foamy.....