Extreme composite Pro-Line
#102
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From: West Australia,
DC, AUSTRALIA
Hi Joe
The Spinner... Can you tell me about it?...Is it a tru Turn FAI spinner?? , what size is the spinner?
Got to be prepared for the model when it arrives.right? Aswell which would be the best remote glow lead to use?
Scot
#103
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From: Gainesville,
FL
Hey there Scott,
Tim and I are both using Tru-Turn 3.5" FAI spinners. It's pretty close and looks just fine. The remote glow I'm using is the short lock shown in Derek's photos and a charge jack from radio shack. I'll take some pictures to show you what I'm talking about. It's pretty simple and seems to be durable!
Joe
Tim and I are both using Tru-Turn 3.5" FAI spinners. It's pretty close and looks just fine. The remote glow I'm using is the short lock shown in Derek's photos and a charge jack from radio shack. I'll take some pictures to show you what I'm talking about. It's pretty simple and seems to be durable!
Joe
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From: West Australia,
DC, AUSTRALIA
Hi Joe,
Yes i thought the spnners looked like the FAI variety, why are they called FAI spinners other than their shorter size?
I found some glow drivers on the central hobbies site, is the one your using like the ne second from the top? does the cap ever come off?
Scot
#110

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Hi Joe
Just sitting here wondering why you mounted the servo's with them buried into the fuse rather than into the stab? Probably doesn't matter either way. I'm sitting in my hotel room after 5 days of walking around the amusement parks here in Orlando. I get to drive home tomorrow.
Just sitting here wondering why you mounted the servo's with them buried into the fuse rather than into the stab? Probably doesn't matter either way. I'm sitting in my hotel room after 5 days of walking around the amusement parks here in Orlando. I get to drive home tomorrow.
#111

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From: Oakland,
CA
Thanks for the pics, Joe. Looks good and simple.
Last night I mounted my rudder servo and did most of the cabling - just need to fasten them at the servo end. I've installed the gear and I'm now working on the wheel pants. I'm also getting ready to install the throttle servo but I need to wait until I get the engine mount/engine installed. I'll have the elevator done by tonight as well. I'll post pics later...
Last night I mounted my rudder servo and did most of the cabling - just need to fasten them at the servo end. I've installed the gear and I'm now working on the wheel pants. I'm also getting ready to install the throttle servo but I need to wait until I get the engine mount/engine installed. I'll have the elevator done by tonight as well. I'll post pics later...
#113
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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: vellum2
Stab pictures attached...
Joe W
Stab pictures attached...
Joe W
Has anyone experienced that?
Comp-ARF say NOT to use ball links as it causes a twisting action on their phenolic horns [X(]
#114
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From: West Australia,
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Hi Joe,
Thanks for the pics of some of your remote glow driver accessories, I have placed an order to Altronics ( Australian equivelent ) for some very similar parts. I have purchased a Venom glow driver unit for the +ve attachment to the plug ( $4.00 AU ) so i guess i`ll see how i go with it.
Scot
Counting down...3 weeks till the pro-line gets here

#115
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From: Gainesville,
FL
Jeff,
The thoughts are the ball links are certainly valid. The first weekend I flew it, they loosened up a bit and the trim was all over the place! So I zapped them in place. If they keep moving over time, I'll replace them... I had them new in the package and nothing else on hand at the time ;-)
Tim,
It's a lot easier to install them with the body of the servo in the fuse. You don't have to cut a big hatch in your stab and the 3421's just slide right in the slot already cut for you. It took me about 30 minutes to install both sides. ok, maybe closer to an hour, but it was easy!
The thoughts are the ball links are certainly valid. The first weekend I flew it, they loosened up a bit and the trim was all over the place! So I zapped them in place. If they keep moving over time, I'll replace them... I had them new in the package and nothing else on hand at the time ;-)
Tim,
It's a lot easier to install them with the body of the servo in the fuse. You don't have to cut a big hatch in your stab and the 3421's just slide right in the slot already cut for you. It took me about 30 minutes to install both sides. ok, maybe closer to an hour, but it was easy!
#116

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From: Oakland,
CA
ORIGINAL: Jeff Boyd 2
Just curious. I have thought of using the same control horns and ball link set-up you have shown, but was concerned that over time the forces could cause the fitting at the top of the horn to turn. I would expect that this could cause frustrating trim changes in flight.
Has anyone experienced that?
Comp-ARF say NOT to use ball links as it causes a twisting action on their phenolic horns [X(]
Just curious. I have thought of using the same control horns and ball link set-up you have shown, but was concerned that over time the forces could cause the fitting at the top of the horn to turn. I would expect that this could cause frustrating trim changes in flight.
Has anyone experienced that?
Comp-ARF say NOT to use ball links as it causes a twisting action on their phenolic horns [X(]
#117

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From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM
Guys,
The reason Comp-ARF say not to use ball links on their phenloic horns is due to the fact that a ball link has to be fitted to one SIDE on the arm. This means that, when under loads, the phenolic arm is open to a twisting load. Most composite materials are much better at absorbing loads in particular directions and it is the same with these horns. The material used is extraordinarily strong when handling straight on loads that would be induced by a clevis but not as strong absorbing a twisting load hence the warning of not using ball links.
Rgds,
Mark
The reason Comp-ARF say not to use ball links on their phenloic horns is due to the fact that a ball link has to be fitted to one SIDE on the arm. This means that, when under loads, the phenolic arm is open to a twisting load. Most composite materials are much better at absorbing loads in particular directions and it is the same with these horns. The material used is extraordinarily strong when handling straight on loads that would be induced by a clevis but not as strong absorbing a twisting load hence the warning of not using ball links.
Rgds,
Mark
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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: schroedm
Guys,
The reason Comp-ARF say not to use ball links on their phenloic horns is due to the fact that a ball link has to be fitted to one SIDE on the arm. This means that, when under loads, the phenolic arm is open to a twisting load. Most composite materials are much better at absorbing loads in particular directions and it is the same with these horns. The material used is extraordinarily strong when handling straight on loads that would be induced by a clevis but not as strong absorbing a twisting load hence the warning of not using ball links.
Rgds,
Mark
Guys,
The reason Comp-ARF say not to use ball links on their phenloic horns is due to the fact that a ball link has to be fitted to one SIDE on the arm. This means that, when under loads, the phenolic arm is open to a twisting load. Most composite materials are much better at absorbing loads in particular directions and it is the same with these horns. The material used is extraordinarily strong when handling straight on loads that would be induced by a clevis but not as strong absorbing a twisting load hence the warning of not using ball links.
Rgds,
Mark
There must be a topic somewhere on RCU about geometric alignment . .
Sorry to divert the thread . . NOW. Back to the ProLine . .

#120
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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: PeterP
I got around the problem by laminating the Comp-ARF horns with 4oz carbon cloth after scuffing up the surface. Works great!
I got around the problem by laminating the Comp-ARF horns with 4oz carbon cloth after scuffing up the surface. Works great!
Thanks, Jeff
#121
Hi Vellum 2
Just my opinion, but I think linkage of elevator is weak (see first pics).
I already had problem with that kind of linkage. Weld is a weak point.
Screws threads on each tip is more solid (second pics).
Just my opinion, but I think linkage of elevator is weak (see first pics).
I already had problem with that kind of linkage. Weld is a weak point.
Screws threads on each tip is more solid (second pics).
#122

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From: boca raton,
FL
Joe - these guys are right about the elevator setup. Let me take the plane home after the JAX contest and I'll think about bringing it back around December'ish.
I'll even leave some MK hardware on it for you
Jim
I'll even leave some MK hardware on it for you
Jim
#123

Hi Jeff,
No need to laminate if you are using a clevis as the load is the same on either side of the horn. You only have a problem when side loading the horn with either ball links or MK BB fittings. If you want the bling factor then you must laminate
#124

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I understand BVM just got a shipment of ProLines in Friday. If you want one you better call quick.
I flew mine at it's first contest this weekend and let a few others fly it. The airplane does well in the wind and the few that flew it liked it. I'll let more fly it at Triple Tree D2 contest in two weeks.
The airplane did better than I could do with it.
I just need to polish a bit with a good coach. Seems my idea of a 45 degree and theirs differ quite a bit, about 2-3 points per manuver. 
An email I got from Akiba and he advised me to set the throws at
9mm up 9.5mm down Elev
I thought this was a bit soft but didn't have a problem in the contest. It won't spin at 9mm for me. I use 15mm for the spins and snaps
14mm up and down on the Ailerons.
This was a bit quick for me but is useable.
60mm on each side the rudder.
CG at 170mm from the leading edge of the wing.
Mines at 175 with a 2150mh Nihm behind the firewall.
Low rise Hatroi headed and 821 pipe.
I'm using a 16 oz IM tank 1/2 round, lots of room for bigger tanks
2.5 inch wheels ar the largest wheel I think one could fit the wheel pants.
I'm going to do a build thread on my second ProLine very soon. Once I figure out how to load pic's to the page instead of a link. Stay tuned.
Tim
I flew mine at it's first contest this weekend and let a few others fly it. The airplane does well in the wind and the few that flew it liked it. I'll let more fly it at Triple Tree D2 contest in two weeks.
The airplane did better than I could do with it.
I just need to polish a bit with a good coach. Seems my idea of a 45 degree and theirs differ quite a bit, about 2-3 points per manuver. 
An email I got from Akiba and he advised me to set the throws at
9mm up 9.5mm down Elev
I thought this was a bit soft but didn't have a problem in the contest. It won't spin at 9mm for me. I use 15mm for the spins and snaps
14mm up and down on the Ailerons.
This was a bit quick for me but is useable.
60mm on each side the rudder.
CG at 170mm from the leading edge of the wing.
Mines at 175 with a 2150mh Nihm behind the firewall.
Low rise Hatroi headed and 821 pipe.
I'm using a 16 oz IM tank 1/2 round, lots of room for bigger tanks
2.5 inch wheels ar the largest wheel I think one could fit the wheel pants.
I'm going to do a build thread on my second ProLine very soon. Once I figure out how to load pic's to the page instead of a link. Stay tuned.
Tim
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I flew Tim's ProLine at the Lake City contest this past weekend.
I didn't get a chance to do much with it, as I was really concentrating on how well it locked in, and it did fantastic in 25mph winds. I look forward to getting a little more stick time on it and fly through a sequence or two with it. I was really surprised at how well it tracked in a strong crosswind, this has got to be the biggest fuse I've seen on a pattern plane by far. It sure seems to be a winner.
I didn't get a chance to do much with it, as I was really concentrating on how well it locked in, and it did fantastic in 25mph winds. I look forward to getting a little more stick time on it and fly through a sequence or two with it. I was really surprised at how well it tracked in a strong crosswind, this has got to be the biggest fuse I've seen on a pattern plane by far. It sure seems to be a winner.


