Covering before painting.

Weights before painting = 864+155+68+41+31=1,159 gram

beautiful work my friend. I wish I was as patient and half as talented as you are with your creativity

Thank you sir, it is really flattering and encouraging.

Isaac Najary

Step 1 = Light grey coat
This color makes small holes and small defects more visible and save coats (weight) with the darker colors.

Weights after step 1 = 903+159+72+43+32=1,209 gram
Step 1 = 50 gram (1,209-1,159)

Step 2 = Applying car-kit and sanding.

Weights after step 2 = 893+158+71+42+31=1,195 gram
Step 2 = -14 gram (1,195-1,209)
Total weight from step 1 till step 2 = 1,195-1,159=36 gram.

Step 3 = White coat and sanding.

Weights after step 3 = 1,246 gram
Step 3 = 51 gram (1,246-1,195)
Total weight from step 1 till step 3 = 1,246-1,159= 87 gram.

Hi Isaac: I noticed that you are using the Hangar Nine Angle Pro Incidence meter. What do you think about it and can you move it from side to side and back and repeat the same readings twice? I am trying to find something better. Great build I wish I had your tallent.

Thanks Kirk

Hi Kirk
The Hangar Nine Angle Pro Incidence meter is the best in the market (I have all the others, so I know).
You can move it from side to side and back and repeat the same readings again and again.
The tolerance is 0.1 degree.
For the Osmose wings you have to use the 36" Meter Extension Bar
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=HAN194

Regards,

Isaac Najary

As already stated on RC Universe, there are significant problems with the analogue incidence meter that comes as part of the Robart system. The main problem is that the reading can change, by anything up to a degree, if the meter is rotated through 180 degrees. In addition, the ‘bubble’ level that is built into the device is often out of calibration with the meter itself! These problems can be minimised by ignoring the ‘bubble’ level and ensuring that all the readings are taken with the face of the meter pointing the same way. However this can sometimes make it awkward to read the meter accurately, and without parallax error, especially when the meter is placed on one side of the tailplane with the face of the meter pointing inwards towards the fin. I have known some modellers who have gone to the expense of buying 4 different meters – one for each wing and one for each tailplane half – so that incidences can be set without the inconvenience of moving a single meter around between each of the 4 surfaces. Sadly, whilst this approach sounds good in theory, the lack of repeatability between individual meters does not justify the extra cost.

As Isaac says, the digital inclinometer that comes with the Hangar 9 Angle Pro is intrinsically more accurate and more repeatable. However the Angle Pro is not without its problems. The main issues lie not with the digital inclinometer itself, but with the mechanics of the mounting system. In particular, the plastic mouldings for the “V� notches are a very slack fit on the metal slide bar. Sliding the mouldings in and out to accommodate the different chords of wing and tailplane, can introduce unacceptable inaccuracies. The inclinometer itself is also a very slack fit in the plastic pocket in which it sits and this too can lead to problems. (Another quality issue with the Hangar 9 Inclinometer is the use of very flimsy buttons for Hold and Acquire switches and an equally flimsy On-Off switch. None of these components are designed to pass the test of time!)

I have had some success with mounting the Hangar 9 Inclinometer on the Robart slide bar and shimming the mounting bracket to ensure that it is a tight fit on the bar. However I find it disturbing - and frankly unacceptable – that both the Robart and Hangar 9 devices, neither of which is inexpensive, should be sold with major flaws.

For those interested in ultimate accuracy, I would have to agree with Troy Newman and recommend a good Laser level device coupled with some basic trigonometry. This approach would be more accurate and repeatable than either the Robart and Hangar 9 devices and would get the initial bench set up to an acceptable degree of accuracy – especially bearing in mind that the final set up can only be achieved through test flying and observation.

Bob Wasson

PS:
Great build thread on the Osmose!

There will be a small delay in the Osmose Building as I went down to the studio today to get Issac paint my new wheel pans.
See profeesional at work.
Amram

Step 4 = Assembling the canopy and the belly pan.

Step 5 = Drawing the scheme on transparent drawing paper.

Mmmmm .......not the way to do it Isaac !! How about giving Amram the spraygun and teach him to spray paint . I am sure the paint will run once ....he will have enough time to figure out what went wrong whilst sanding it out and it will never happen again .......and best of all you can continue with your work !

Hi JP,
In fact Isaac wanted me to paint but the real problem is that my wife do not allow me to send anything as after sending
My hands skin surface gets rough and she don’t like it….
and in any case as far as R/C Building and flying I am much better as a consultant and it is well known all over the world that consultants
never get dirty... :-)

Amram

Step 6 = Preparing Bristol paper patterns.

Step 7 = Preparing patterns made of perforation paper, (right and left).

Step 7 = Painting yellow.

Step 8 = Painting the other colors.

Step 9 = Paint repairs.

Step 10 = Smoothing the seams between the colors.

Weights after step 10 = 1,271 gram
Step 4-10 = 25 gram (1,271-1,246)
Total weight from step 1 till step 10 = 1,271-1,159= 112 gram.