Atul,

It is not a specialized plug. YS does not make these plugs. It is built to certain specifications and other plugs do meet this requirement. There are several plugs out there that will work just as well as the one YS sells. They really aren't any less expensive, but they will work if the other plugs are unavailable. It kind of like saying you have to run a YS glow plug in the non CDI engines. There are others that work just as well.

Arch

Thing is, the online stores has damaged the LHS so much, that many has gone out of business, Richard's company is a small company, he is the one doing the effort in the USA to bring this engines, the least thing people should do is support him, Yamada usually can sell and send you parts to the USA but they will not sell you motors if ordered from the USA.

And don't forget the postage.

Arch:

Ah! I did not know that. Come to think of it, it's quite obvious - the analogy with glow plugs makes it so.

Thanks for clarifying.

atul

Thanks for the info on the spark plugs. I'll look into getting a few as well as a few spare parts (gaskets and such). Are there any items in particular with this motor I should carry in the parts box?

~$18USD certainly isn't cheap but it's not the most I've paid for a plug, the most I've paid for a spark plug is $65AUD for NGK R6120-105's back in 1999. The plug cap to suit was $65 as well. Good thing my bike only had two of them......

You're right. It is not cheaper to order from Yamada direct since you have to pay DUTY plus postage. For instance, I ended up paying over $200 of duty on a repaired engine shipped to London (!). Fortunately, the UK system is efficient enough for me to have got a reimbursement, but the shipping ($50) was still expensive. It's only a matter of convenience. There are dealers in the U.S. (Richard) And the UK, but not in many other parts of the world. I do not believe Yamada has a major dealer (like Richard) in Australia, so for Australians (or others in Asia), ordering parts from Yamada (or getting engines repaired) is probably the only choice.

atul

<span class="long_text" id="result_box"><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Boa tarde Pessoal," onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Hello Guys,

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Voltando da pista de aeromodelo, vamos ao que interessa:" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Returning, let's get to my report:

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="1 - A primeira coisa que tentei foi remover a parte de baixo do cowl e tentar voar com ele com a refrigeração máxima." onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">1 - The first thing I tried was to remove the bottom of the cowl and try to fly the Osmose with the maximum cooling. </span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Mas no ultimo voo da semana passada eu e uns amigos tinhamos mexido no regulador eo problema não foi mas o apresentado para vocês nas threads anteriores, agora quando chega em 5400 rpm ele morre e notei que esta saindo muito combustivel pela check valve no cabeçote do motor" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">But in the last flight in last week me and some friends we had change the regulator and the problem change, not more is the presented to you in previous threads, now when the engine reach 5400 rpm it stops and I see that the fuel in check valve in head engine </span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="(numero no manual F4088 n.85);" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">(number in the manual F4088 n.85) spits so much fuel;

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="2 - Tentei colocar uma bateria de 1450 mah;" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">2 - I tried to put a battery of 1450 mah for the ignition;

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Estou enviando videos que relatam quando o motor chega em 5400 ele morre e se voces notarem sae muito combustivel pela check valve quando ele chega perto desta rpm e morre depois." onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">I am sending videos in the youtube  that report when the engine go to 5400 rpm and stop and a lot of fuel in the check valve.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuGN-eQ31iI[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rV7TQLtikVw[/youtube]

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Conto com a ajuda custumeira de todos voces e gostaria de saber:" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Thank you for the usual help of all of you and would like to know:

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Qual é a configuração de fabrica dos parafusos do regulador, agulha de alta e Sub Agulha?" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">What is the factory setting in the regulator screws, high needle valve and the Sub Needle valve (with this answers I believe that I back to my original problem)?

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Muito Obrigado" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Thanks

</span><span onmouseout="function onmouseout(){this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'}" title="Douglas" onmouseover="function onmouseover(){this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9' }" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ebeff9">Douglas</span></span></p>

Woah, you need to secure your engine dude! That thing is all over the place! Accident waiting to happen....

That's first and foremost before you start messing with anything else. #1 safety, #2 it can cause problems that will make it very hard to diagnose the real issue.

Edit: looking at the video again, it looks like you just might not have a nose ring. Is this the case?

If I read your earlier post correctly, I think you mentioned you opened the high needle to 2-1/2 turns? If in the affirmative, that's way too rich. Usually, 170 HS only at about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 without cdi, and about 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 for cdi equipped.

Try starting with 1-3/4 and gradually lean it until it sacks, then, richen it about 1/8 to 1/4 turns. As for the pump, starts with flush. You also want to make sure the spark plug lead is securely seated onto the plug, otherwise, can also give you problem.

Adrian

Like Adrian said, your engine is way too rich, set the needle valve at 1-1/4 turns, run the engine, accelerate and bring it back to idle, when at idle, listen at the engine, if the RPM goes up then richen the pump if they go down lean the pump, adjust the pump from whenever it is right now at 1mm interval.

Also, are you using 19x11?? if so, you should not use that prop until the engine is broken in, at least 30 flights minimum, better at 40 flights, 17x13 will be the one to use, the engine can't handle that big prop very well when it's new.

Also, the spark plug cap should be close to the intake tube, correct that and put a ty-rap to hold it together, it will brake if you don't do that.

The video is a good idea, but your camera shutter is too fast, I can't evaluated the smoke.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Douglas:

Well, it's good to see that your original problem is resolved. Looks like it was the battery.

For the engine, set the high-speed needle to 1 1/4 turns out from the fully closed position. Do not touch the "sub-needle". That needle is set at the factory.

For the pump, try different positions like Adrian said, but the movement is (IMHO) more than 1 mm each time. The factory recommended method is 1/8 turn each time you wish to make it richer or leaner. In my experience, the CDI engine, after running for an hour, like a lean pump setting - that way, it idles well.

To understand precisely how the pump works and how to set it up best, read Troy's blog at: http://www.patternflyer.com/troy/?p=92. This link gives you all the dope you need to know about running the DZ.

Looks like you're getting close. Best of luck!

atul

Good morning,

bwick:
Thanks for the secury advices and I use a LRI 85 Hyde mount;

apereira:
I&acute;m using a 19x11 apc, I will change the propto the mentioned;
Do you have a picture with the spark plug with the ty-rap?
Plase send the picture of the improve air exit from the osmose evo.

atul
I have bad news (to me of course)...
I touch in the regulator, needle and sub needle valve (desesperate mode active lol) and I don&acute;t know the original turns os this screws.

So, is better I send my engine to factory in Japan?

thanks and follow pictures of my plane (I&acute;m novice that you see, this is my first real plane and my first real building)

Douglas

Before sending it back to Japan, and also getting confused by all of our recommendations, I suggest you look for someone at your club that has experience on YS. Not necessarily needs to be cdi proficient, but with general knowledge on how the DZ system works. Have him take a crack on your engine, and explain the ins & outs of the engine to you. If he knows how the basic DZ system works, the cdi is just an additional element that is not that though to figure out.

You will not be benefiting from anything by sending the engine back to Japan, unless the engine indeed needs repair.

Adrian

Hi Douglas,

What type of nose ring are you using, from the video the spinner seems to move a lot relative to the airframe?

Arnstein

Hi Douglas,

What kind of spinner are you using on your model; I have been trying to source a suitable carbon spinner for my Axiome.

If you get really confused and can't get anywhere with the CDi, remove the sprk plug and fit a glow plug and run the engine. If it runs ok then you can attribute the difficulties you are having to the ignition system. Otherwise its an engine problem. The needle setting will be very similar. BTW I've had DZ's run fine on 2 1/4 turns. The needle setting relates to the quality of the machining of the needle valve assembly as well as other components and they do vary from engine to engine. Don't get hung up about it not being exactly 1 1/4 turns. If you can't get the engine to richen by progressivly unwinding the needle, then worry about it! Also it would be worth trying another batch of fuel just to make sure it is ok. Coolpower 30% is as good as any reference you'll have over there.

Best wishes

Keith

Hi Guys,</p>

riot3d:
In Brazil this engine is not as popular for its cost. I started with the YS 63 in my Kyosho Osmose 70 and from there I started to love this engine. So I'm alone in this journey!</p>

Arnstein:
I'm using the nose ring's own LRI 85. See the photo in my last post.</p>

UKpatternflyer:
I am very grateful for the advice. I never imagined that could change the spark plug for a glow plug to diagnose problems in the ignition! I'll doin this week with the settings reported.</p>

Thank you all!</p>

Douglas</p>

And UKpatternflyer,

Myspinner is a carbon fiber from the CAMODEL. www.camodel.com.ar

Douglas:

OK. The changes to the sub-needle valve could explain the problem you've been having.

For now, there's no need to send the engine in to the factory or to a dealer.

Here's an excerpt from the YS CDI manual on the sub-needle valve:

->

Sub-needle
The sub-needle is preset at the factory 1/4 turns opened from the full closed position.
Do not turn the sub-needle.
The sub-needle is not for rotate adjusting. Sub-needle works for injecting fuel into the crank case for cooling. If the sub-needle is full closed (turned clock wised), all of fuel will be injected into the engine cylinder. If the sub-needle is opened over 1/4 turns, engine power will be lowered

<

The KEY is to only open the sub-needle valve 1/4 turn from the fully closed position. You likely opened it too much, which is why your engine quits at 5500 RPM. No wonder: All the fuel is going to cool the crankcase and not to power the prop :-).

So now do the following:

Close the sub-needle valve fully and then open it 1/4 turns from the fully closed position.
Get a decent battery (1400 Mah or more) for the ignition, JUST to be sure.
Open the main needle 1 1/2 turns or 1 1/4 (it does not matter too much till the engine runs)
Set the regulator FLUSH

Start the engine. It should run fine. After it's warmed up for 5-6 mins, try to max it out. If the engine 'misses' (i.e. acts like it is hesitating or misfiring at the top), that's a sign of the engine being too rich: lean in the high-speed needle.

After this, assuming all goes OK, you can set the regulator as discussed in TROY's blog. Be sure to read that blog, at http://www.patternflyer.com/troy/?p=92. This information is excellent.

Hopefully, all will go well this time around. Let us know!

atul

douglas
I think that main needle is too rich.
In the case of CDI. A main needle is just 3/4 turns.
kobago

Thank you Atul,

Is that what I need. I will try this settings and can you explain what is "Set the regulator FLUSH"? It's fully open or fully close (my english is not good)?

Keep in mind, he is not running the low oil fuel, so his needle will be much closer to 1 1/2 turns out.

Arch

Douglas

"Flush" means neither too open nor too closed. The regulator should be 'level' with it's 'housing'. If it looks like it's srewed in too much, just screw it out and if it looks like it's screwed out, screw it in. I hope you are able to understand.

BTW - the 170 CDI manual is now officially released in English. You can find it at http://www.yspower.co.jp/en/data/pdf/DZ170cdi.pdf. Download it and keep it for future reference.

Atul

Douglas,

As per Adrian's recomendation wich I think is the best, try to contact Marcos Maloy, he flies the Osmose with the YS170 if I'm not mistaken, he is from your F3A national team.
Or, pick the advices from any person on this thread and follow theem, ignore the rest, if it doesn't work, pick another and continue, but for most of us, anyone that is good at tunning YS engines ussually has it's own method, that's why so many of us differs. You can ask Marcelo Colombo at how my engines and my team mates engines runs for F3A.

I'll post the pictures in a little while.
Saludos

Now available from Central- $797.83

The link work like this:

http://www.yspower.co.jp/en/data/pdf/DZ170cdi.pdf

you have to delete the terminal dot...

I've noticed that some are reporting HS needle valve positions as low 3/4 and I believe Arch advised that the needle will be closer to 11/2 turns for standard fuel. Is there a difference in the fuel consumption when using low oil fuel vs standard? Is the reported 40% reduction only applicable when using low oil fuels? If so, what's typical for standard fuel?

Colin