Well, my WK with 2 lockers turned out to be a dud. The locker work perfect, but given it has a common gearbox and 2 lockers it took a servo that is over twice the stock strrength and it still steers kinda hokey. I guess that's to be expected with only one motor.

I used a 65 t motor and will still have to gear down some more because it isn't very strong on 6 cells. Articulatuion is pretty good with stock stuff. Flipping the chassis proved very time consuming because of stock servo mount. Best to use on on axle in my opinion.

On lengthening WB: since I'll make my links like on the HPI site shall I make the same lengths as they say F140mm R152?mm
Or would it be better to use equal lengths, my battery is in front and I'd like to stick with a legal 2.2 wb. Maybe I can use maxx links on front and only have to make one set?

Ahaha, I finally ordered parts, hohohoo.

Low gears, ends to make links, narrow wheels without much offset, pinion shims,a new servo box, doh. Maybe I can crawls with the Ohio boys now.

Still wondering about those link lengths, lol.

Guver, Sorry about missing all those posts by you! Ok time to try and answer questions.

- The only shims that I know for the diffs are in this kit

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTB43&P=M

- rear steering on 2 channels is possible but you have to buy a Y harness. One end plugs into your receiver then the two other ends plug into your servos. A couple problems here. Instead of only one servo pulling power you now have two. Some BECs on speed controls won't like that much and you might have to run a receiver battery pack (adding weight). The other problem is most 2.2 classes don't allow rear steer. We don't care at our get togethers though. 4 wheel steering will be better for turning than just front steering. Simple. It might result in having to buy other electronics though and you might be better off just getting a different radio and running independent rear steer (TQ3 radios are about 20 bucks used and you can mod the switch yourself) You're right, locking the front and rear starts to really hinder steering when you run the stock style linkages. Your best bet is to mount the servo on the axle. There is way to much slop in the linkages when the servo is mounted on the chassis.

- Gearing, I'm running a 13t pinion and a 66t traxxas spur. The stock WK gearing is pretty tall and will stall motors out pretty easily. I run a 65t axiom also but I'm running it at 8.4v.

- If you are asking about the small stamped steel axle mounts I am using they are tamiya parts and are out of stock right now. If you are talking about the plate aluminum on the axle. I made those.

- There a lot of ways to setup the links. The easiest thing to do in my opinion is go out and buy some 6-32 all thread from lowe's or home depot. Cut that into the lengths you think you need and put your rod ends on them. Hook it up to your truck and see how they work out. If it doesn't work then take the links off and shorten them up. If you need longer links then save the shorter piece for future mock ups and cut a new one.

Here is a picture of the all thread with rod ends on my truck when I was mocking the links up.

my shocks finally came in

Thanks nick. I just got thru a test run, not too bad with stock steering stuff. The lockers sure make it. Some of my tire choices are shorter than the stock ones and I think the tall stock ones might be best when I go to narrow wheels.

choices are older stampede tires, new stampede talon tires, wheelyking tires, I'm trying not to buy any,lol.

what shocks did you get 7?

Even though the stock WK tires have a big overall diameter they get NO traction what so ever... They're way to hard of a compound and do don't well at all on rocks. Decent in mud

I'd definitely run those talon tires if you can. I know they are smaller but they should have more traction. Don't glue them on right away. Just mount them unglued and go drive it. Be careful because obviously your rims are going to spin in your tires a bit but you should be able to see how the tires compare. Then when you glue them they will be that much better. I run masher 2000s on my truck and crawls way better than when it did with the larger WK tires.

Ok, great info. I'll use the set with the least off-set and try them they are glued from factory. I think it'll be 2 sets of rears from the stampede. If they work good maybe I can mount them on my narrow wheels too.

ps I won't be seeing you this weekend, gotta work have fun.

No biggie, I don't think we are going to have a meet anyhow because of the weather. Most of the guys from out of town aren't coming.

If it dries up I'll be out in medina next week checking out the new track layout if you want to stop by!

i just ordered my wheely king and all the things to make it crawl

Sweet... that is the first step!

Here's pics of the Talon Pede tires with the narrowest offset (rear stampede) the fronts have a bit more offset and may do a bit better. All in all the stock WK tires did better on my debris ridden trails. Lots of sand, logs, woods. I overlooked the fact that the wheels are 2.8 " too. I may have to order tires after all. []

my truck is mostly a trail truck as you can see here

http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...Picture283.flv

it can be a "crawler" too lol






enjoy [sm=teeth_smile.gif]

Nice, I have still yet to stretch mine and use a lipo for weight reduction.

Looks good guver! I figured you were wanting to crawl that is why I thought the talons might be better than the stock WK tires. they don't get traction on rocks at all. Trucks looking good!

To make my lengths I went to the hobby store and bought a pack of [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGB7&P=ML]12 REVO rod ends[/link], went to Canadian tire and bought 8 (you only need 4) one foot pieces of 8-32 all thread, and went to Rona to buy various 4-40 screws and nuts. I simply cut the all thread to a proper size (don't remember how long exactly, I just set my axles for a 12" wheelbase and used a tape measure to measure), screwed on the rod ends, and mounted them with the 4-40 hardware I bought. I can almost guarantee that these links are never going to break. Next up is finding some aluminum (or maybe brass?) tubing to cover the threads, which Im still working on.

I used 8-32 because I want my ride beefy, I'm using REVO shafts and 3mm plate for the servo mount , but you can also use 6-32 all thread and use MAXX rod ends.

This is my WK crawler. Stock parts: tranny, axles, battery holder, and springs.

MFM chassis
Arrow shaft links
Xl-5 ESC
55T lathe motor
Hitec 645mg servo
Moab 2.2s
Axial Bead Locks
HPI Jeep Rubicon body

recently purchased axial 2.2 beadlock wheels what size allen rench do i need,to remove the ring to mount my tires ? thanks

Luis, you will need a 1.5mm hex driver. I just sent you a reply to your E-mail to me, let me know...

Good luck trying to find a competition event for rock crawlers. I am building mine and am wanting to see a competition and talk to the guys. I have E-mailed more than one contact listed on the socalrcrc website to no avail. I am trying to find a southern Calif. competition, but get no response from their site. If you guys know of any comps in the Socal area please let me know. Good luck to all of you.
Sunny_B

Whats the best way to put the battery up front? Any pics? What do I need to do?

Buy The Real Dogman's upper links

Here's the latest picture of my truck which one the 2.2 comp Saturday here in Ohio

Nice bta steering setup. Do you have any up close pics of the mounting and stuff?