Need Henlong multi function unit
#1
Hope someone has a old type Henlong multi function unit,, I’ll pay with PayPal. My new smoke unit is working but not when it’s plugged in.[img]blob:https://www.rcuniverse.com/26ae3c1c-69a1-408b-af38-00520988fce1[/img]
#2

Do you own a volt meter? if not they are cheap at Harbor Freight and will help you determine if you have voltage coming out of your control board on the smoke unit's plugs, would be much cheaper than buying a new board and even if you need a new board the volt meter is an indispensable and very useful tool to have around. https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-63759.html
#5

My Feedback: (1)
How old is the original unit? Does your TX still have the metal antenna? If it's that old, you might think about upgrading to a 2.4 system. I have a ton of the V1 systems from Taigen laying around and you're more than welcome to one, just pay the postage. We're talking both board and transmitter, and I even have a couple of boards that are wired with the anti-track recoil device. It's basically a plug-and-play swap, the only thing you have to remember is that HL and TG have the motor ports swapped on the board . If you're interested in upgrading send me a PM and we'll get you hooked up.
#6
Take the top 4 little Philips screws off the top of smoker heater. Not the blower, the heater. Take out the the cotton package inside the component and gently wring it out - let it dry out. Then gently put it back together. The problem just might be that the cotton in you heater is over-saturated. When this happens, it won't work anymore. Maximum application of smoke oil to your heater is about 10 drops; anymore than that and you risk 'drowning' it.
#7
I have revived most of my smoke units. As Ghost@amps1 said, remove the top of the smoker. Make sure the filament wires aren't broken first of all. I then replace the cotton in the smoker, give it about 7 or 8 drops of smoke oil and reassemble. It should work. I've also found that at times I will only get smoke from one pipe (Tiger, Pershing) so I will get a soda straw and blow into both rubber hoses and it will now produce smoke from both hoses, pipes, etc.
#8

My Feedback: (1)
The OP said his smoke unit works, but not when it's plugged into the motherboard. That would lead me to believe that he bench tested it. If it's working on the bench but not in the tank, I would check the voltage coming off the mfu. It should be at least 5 volts.
I took one of my smokers and replaced the filament with a 10-ohm 1 watt wire wound resistor and that's almost too much. I have videos of how that came out if anyone wants to see them, I can post them after I get home from work. That was the smoker in my jagdpanther, so if you've seen any of the videos of that running you know that it puts out major smoke. One of these days I really want to try one of those acoustic smokers that Stormin' Normand designed, I just need to get off my lazy Duff and get it done.
I took one of my smokers and replaced the filament with a 10-ohm 1 watt wire wound resistor and that's almost too much. I have videos of how that came out if anyone wants to see them, I can post them after I get home from work. That was the smoker in my jagdpanther, so if you've seen any of the videos of that running you know that it puts out major smoke. One of these days I really want to try one of those acoustic smokers that Stormin' Normand designed, I just need to get off my lazy Duff and get it done.
#9
The OP said his smoke unit works, but not when it's plugged into the motherboard. That would lead me to believe that he bench tested it. If it's working on the bench but not in the tank, I would check the voltage coming off the mfu. It should be at least 5 volts.
I took one of my smokers and replaced the filament with a 10-ohm 1 watt wire wound resistor and that's almost too much. I have videos of how that came out if anyone wants to see them, I can post them after I get home from work. That was the smoker in my jagdpanther, so if you've seen any of the videos of that running you know that it puts out major smoke. One of these days I really want to try one of those acoustic smokers that Stormin' Normand designed, I just need to get off my lazy Duff and get it done.
I took one of my smokers and replaced the filament with a 10-ohm 1 watt wire wound resistor and that's almost too much. I have videos of how that came out if anyone wants to see them, I can post them after I get home from work. That was the smoker in my jagdpanther, so if you've seen any of the videos of that running you know that it puts out major smoke. One of these days I really want to try one of those acoustic smokers that Stormin' Normand designed, I just need to get off my lazy Duff and get it done.
#12
That smoker hookup is ingenious and it's given me an idea for my Tiger I. If I ever get around to it, I'll extend the plastic tubing from the heater all the way outside the back of the tank, slanting them upwards maybe by a half inch and paint them. I think it might give for a more realistic exhaust effect and the smoke won't be deflected as much by the 'mufflers'. idk, it's just a theory for now.
Oh my, something else to do!
Btw, I have the very same drill except the handle on mine is red not blue. It's quite the little machine and is almost perfect for working on these tanks and I've found that it will even drill through metal. Luv it!
Oh my, something else to do!
Btw, I have the very same drill except the handle on mine is red not blue. It's quite the little machine and is almost perfect for working on these tanks and I've found that it will even drill through metal. Luv it!
#13

My Feedback: (1)
Yeah, Normand did a great job on that smoker and I know he worked long and hard to get that result. If you want true realism in a tiger tank you would probably be better off just to remove the smoker altogether. The real tanks very, very rarely had smoke coming from the rear, but if they did it should be coming through the muffler and the round plate on the top of the muffler is there to disperse any smoke that it did produce. Remember, the tankers did not want exhaust smoke giving them away to the enemy.
#14
Yeah, Normand did a great job on that smoker and I know he worked long and hard to get that result. If you want true realism in a tiger tank you would probably be better off just to remove the smoker altogether. The real tanks very, very rarely had smoke coming from the rear, but if they did it should be coming through the muffler and the round plate on the top of the muffler is there to disperse any smoke that it did produce. Remember, the tankers did not want exhaust smoke giving them away to the enemy.
It makes sense about the tankers not wanting to give their positions away so I can see this. I also now think that the long cannister type mufflers lowered the engine noise as well - I don't think they were just there to disperse the exhaust but I want a bit at least.
I wonder, do you know if I could drill a hole through the top of the heater, glue a plastic tube (without having to put in a brass fitting) into it and then drilling another hole out of the back of the Tiger or any of the others, so I could just refill the heater anytime I wanted, withought having to take the upper hull off? Does that sound too insane?
#15
Yeah, Normand did a great job on that smoker and I know he worked long and hard to get that result. If you want true realism in a tiger tank you would probably be better off just to remove the smoker altogether. The real tanks very, very rarely had smoke coming from the rear, but if they did it should be coming through the muffler and the round plate on the top of the muffler is there to disperse any smoke that it did produce. Remember, the tankers did not want exhaust smoke giving them away to the enemy.
#16
Thanks guys for all the ideas , Panzerpaul gave me a motherboard and circuit board. I swapped everything and still no smoke or movement with the smoke unit. I don’t know what to do.
john comp
john comp
#17

Thanks for giving me a good excuse not to do any further 'upgrades' on the Tiger I - it's on the bench right now and has been for a long time and I don't need any more jobs to do on it but I gotta get my butt in gear here soon and finish working on them.
It makes sense about the tankers not wanting to give their positions away so I can see this. I also now think that the long cannister type mufflers lowered the engine noise as well - I don't think they were just there to disperse the exhaust but I want a bit at least.
I wonder, do you know if I could drill a hole through the top of the heater, glue a plastic tube (without having to put in a brass fitting) into it and then drilling another hole out of the back of the Tiger or any of the others, so I could just refill the heater anytime I wanted, withought having to take the upper hull off? Does that sound too insane?
It makes sense about the tankers not wanting to give their positions away so I can see this. I also now think that the long cannister type mufflers lowered the engine noise as well - I don't think they were just there to disperse the exhaust but I want a bit at least.
I wonder, do you know if I could drill a hole through the top of the heater, glue a plastic tube (without having to put in a brass fitting) into it and then drilling another hole out of the back of the Tiger or any of the others, so I could just refill the heater anytime I wanted, withought having to take the upper hull off? Does that sound too insane?
I drilled out the Left front plastic fuel filler cap then tapped a thread into the body and screwed the DKLM filler in place,
Mating a silicone pipe between the filler cap and the smoker is simplicity itself.
#18
Those are the only solutions that I know of that might work. Goodluck
#19
Thanks to all you gave input and advice, I asked about a on/off switch and sure enough on the bottom is a switch that has a,b,c on it.I turned it to the next position and she smokes!





