here is my hl video:
http://media.putfile.com/rc-tank-1video-ever

had the time to work a little on my tiger1 (h.l.)
since i have a cam. today . ,here is pics of my new details:
-added filter chains
-changed gun`s elevation angle(lower)
-made a bucket and found the perfect 20 years old decal for it(fragile)
-rusted exhausts (not finished)have to borrow again an air brush.
-added a spare wheel,spare sprocket coming soon..
-storage box and track links on the turret
-made a jack crank handle(model car torsion bar)
-added and sculpted steering wheel on hatch
-extra track links(turns better at low speed and suspensions travel higher)

still have to finish my piping on left air filter.
left room for another camo color(white)but with paintballs , i will keep it 2 colors coniferous canadian forest,will add more black into the camo.
sorry forgot to put the rear mud fenders.

my cooling system works great [8D] ,
do`nt count the charges anymore (over 30) ,
still runs on plastics gears and tracks,yellow battery,smoking unit (r.i.p.),lasted about 5 fill ups,did`nt used it often,but will put another one later.

while fire-jumping, broke a susp. pivot [:@],
tanks new weight is 8 pounds had forgoten that detail[:@]

had to repair the pivot on one suspension arm with a metal tube (easier than i taught it would be(once open 20-30min.)
that force me to cancel the target training while jumping(was getting the timing but..[&o] )

SS: Would you sell me one with the mods already done? I have an HL Tiger 1 and love the tan k but, I just like running it not modifying or working on it. I build warbirds and I get enough of that with my planes.

I have a couple of problems with my HL: 1. one of the tracks let go in one spot and 2. no forward gear. Tank won't go forward but, will go in all other directions.

How do I fix the track and/or get parts and why will the tank not go forward?

hi ,
like 20% of these tanks ,the circuit board does`nt last outside in the rough or torquing conditions ,tends to overheat fast .

the good side is that parts from that company have a decent price and the replacement board seems to have a different pll chip number.
would do it in spare times for you ,but i`m really busy with my company of selling motocross and parts during summer (to many engines to rebuilt at the moment)this winter no problem.

post a topic in this site ,someone surly will do the mods for you in here.


to get a replacement board >fast<,until now the link would be nova hobby for a board (15$) or mato 16.90$ can: ask seller question
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-16-RC-German-T...QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.matotoys.com/canada/produ...products_id=60

you can have a set of standard spare tracks for 11$ for about the same price there is the "heavy plastic set" also metal ones.
never could brake one link on my tank ,i play quite rough with tracks,so you could just order another cheap 11$plastics set to take some good links from,or if you have extra $ ,go for metal.

thanks for asking and showing trust in me , appreciated !!


best regards

here is some pics of my tiger`s favorite bone.

SS:

Thanks for the info. I think I may just buy another Tiger 1 and use this one for parts. How can I tell the difference between the older and newer better made models?

I also have an Ultimate soldier 1/9 M1A1 and it is a pretty cool tank but with your skill and expertise you could trick it out and make it a really cool tank.

Have you seen the 1/16 M1A1's that came out? I think they're pretty new to the market here.

I also have a WSN T34 (I needed a Rousky tank to beat up) which isn't bad but, I like the HL 1/16 Tiger much better.

On Meto's website they talk about a "Super Version" with metal engine and gears. Is this a worthwhile upgrade. I would pay the extra for the "Super Version" if it is worth the $$. I beat the crap out of my tanks mostly playing with the dogs with them.

Here's Mato's "Super Version": http://www.matotoys.com/canada/produ...products_id=99

The super and one that comes with metal tracks are worth every penny! Excellent value!

Thanks for your input. I'll spend a little more and get the "Super". Have you also had the Non-super model(s) and how differently does it perform with the metal tracks than the stock plastic tracks? Is there a heavy duty set of plastic tracks available?

I've got them all. The metal tracks are really cool and haven't broken a link yet. I ordered a replacement set of plastic tracks once, the ad said they were heavy duty but they seemed the same as stock to me.

With metal tracks and gearboxes the tanks run more realistically, they plow through grass and debris because of the added weight rather then glide over it. Of my nine tanks, 4 so far have metal tracks (the ones we use the most) and all of those plus two others have been fitted with metal gears.

The original plastic gears are ok, never had a problem. Then they came out with the slipper clutch in the gears, this made annoying sound when tank ran into obstacle it could not overcome thus saving the electronics. However, with metal gears and tracks I have yet to burn out a board.

I will likely order this tank: http://www.matotoys.com/canada/produ...roducts_id=140

What do you think? Worth the$$?

They are out of stock right now but will be in in Sep.. I'll order one then. All things considered, I think this is a pretty good value.

It's not a bad deal. I got my Tiger 1 From Hobbytron with the plastic gears the cost was $88 after shipping, then I got the full metal upgrade kit from Mato toys which cost me $86 and the time to remove and install the parts plus here some time I'm going to take it all apart and paint it.

Jeff

I Believe I had the same thing happen the other day.[]

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4631640/tm.htm[/link]

Jeff

That's a nice tank, but it's listed as SOLD OUT.

Nice BIRDS!!! What kit or plan are they? The reason I ask is our TANKS need AIR SUPPORT!!!

That tank has been painted and weathered. If you like what they've done, by all means buy it. I was thinking of this one or its Pershing equivelant: [link=http://www.matotoys.com/canada/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=117]Tiger I[/link]

With this deal you cannot buy the tank and metal tracks at a later time for a better price.

Great deal. Does anyone know if the preassembled all metal tank with weathering will be back in stock soon?

Has Maot talked about this tank at all? I really like it.

Might get me to buy one more HL tank.

hi again !

my opinion on the full customize ones is that the colors are better,bad side the details(cable shovels,cables are not painted) like the original ones.
i do`nt really like the yellow color, but i think it is the one that looks in reality, the less toyish stock (if i can say so) .

you might also check those extra customized ones, but the price ...
http://www.asiatam.de/pi-107996997.htm?categoryId=10

now lets talk about your stuka : it is a awesome model that you have built, the painting on it is absolutely outstanding ! nice work my friend ,
one day will try to built that stuka ,what is the price of that one?
you msmit looks good too ,but your stuka colors really out stands .

the oldest hl tanks have red lights ,be careful they do produce non s&s with white leds ,without sound and smoke.
the transmitter have and a-b-c switch instead of a crystal on the controller,their are too fast in my opinion,but the old circuit board seams to last)and the plastics gears(1 gener.)strips.

go for the full metal if you can (135$) that way you will get the metal tracks for a good price.
work a deal(email) with murphy(mato) to send you and extra circuit board in the package for your other tank or reserve(they cost peanuts for him).

of course tamiyas are better(electronics and hull)
but for most of the important parts,
their prices are expensive like all japanese parts(honda-toyota-suzuki-sony) if you can afford it go tamiya or better, full metal tanks 1:8 scale armortek.

but for an manual man who can use a soldering iron and screwdrivers,
in the low prices tanks , hl and marui-vstanks have the best quality-price ratio (i think).

buy the way , my salutations to : swathdiver , sownare and hpiguy

The Stuka is a Great Planes ARF that is out of production. It flies great and I installed whistles on the wheel pants to make it sound like a siren.

I have a dozen or so planes and most are warbirds. I am building and electric Stuka. I'll post pics as I build it if you guys are interested.

I also have a short video clip of the pictured Stuka if anyone would like to see it (4 megs).

post the link !
did not see the wisle on your stuka , it makes some sort of diving sound or more a air speed sound ?
does it drops paint bombs ?

Proulxlaw . . . but what about your incredible ME109? Is it from a plan or a kit. Very interested!!

The 109 is an ARF (almost ready to fly). You can find more info here:

http://www.kmp.ca/product_info.php?c...d5b7f8e00b051e

This is not a beginner's airplane. It is one of the more difficult warbirds to fly. It builds easily but, it's tough to fly. Experience with other low-wing planes is a must before attempting to fly this one.

Anyone who has flown before can attest to this. When I started flying, I wanted to jump right into warbirds but, the reality of the prerequisite necessary experience set in when I crashed a P51 on it's maiden flight.

If you haven't flown before and are intested in learning to fly, I recommend first using a simulator before attempting to fly a real plane. It will save you tons of time, money and aggrevation. When you can land one in the simulator about 10 times in a row without crashing you're ready for the real thing.

schutzstaffel, you did an awesome job on your tank, and did a great service to the board members here by sharing your info. Thanks a million!!

I just ordered two HL's for my son and I and the wealth of info in this topic will help us greatly to improve the reliability of our tanks.

Excellent job and keep up the great work.

schutzstaffel, I have a question on the CPU fan you used. I am looking into getting the parts to gether for this mod for two tanks.
What exactly did you use if you remember? Most fans I see are 12V fans that operate between 10 and 12 volts. Is yours in that range and just underpowered at the volt level?
I want to get a fan that works but does not draw too much away from the battery as well. Something that uses low wattage. Any ideas?

small (40mm) motherboard/northbridge fans should be fine, as long as theyre getting 7-8 volts (they run at 12v regularly) they'll be fine. They "can" run at 5v, but thats often its not enough voltage to start them spinning (when you first turn them on)

As for his heatsinks, they look like theyre out of a power supply (PSU)

Thanks wackywheelz, I appreciate any help I can get. Very new to this HL tank thing and want to make them as problem free as possible.

how do you make new jack for charging without pulling out the battry? I'm new to electronics so best explain with pic or diagram, thanks alot...

I just started airbrushing stuff. Here's a couple of my tanks.