what do yall recommend for a good throttle servo? i do mostly bashing .

well ended up getting Hitec throttle servo, forgot that i had ordered a roll cage for my truggy. just got it put on and modded the body to give it a rugged look. as soon as i get some new batts for the camera i will have pics up.

Ive still got the original stock hpi crappy servo on my throttle and its still working ok after 18 months. I think i have a hitec 985 on the steering which does the job for bashing.
Where did you get your roll cage? I had some heavy duty lid landings yesterday which broke a couple of cooling fins on my os28.

I ordered it from a hobbies shop. it was $50. but unless you want to mod your body or get longer body mount then would have to run with out a body. pics up later today.

Is that the one you can get off ebay too? They look pretty nice, apart from the fact you have to take your rear wing off to fit it

not sure if you can get this on ebay. its from hard bodies.

looks pretty mean, like you are going to use it for breaking ankles...

thanks. i just cut the factory body, painted it all black. only used the "hood" and then cut from the roof back, i am going to get lexan to cover the sides.

this is probably a stupid question, but what do you consider a hellfire, a monster truck or truggy?

truggy

anyone have a good recommendation for a good starter box? what company

hi syv,

I have a lrp competion starter box, works great on my Picco P3 0.28 engine!!!


http://www.lrp-electronic.de/e/lis/ then Engines

Just finished running in my Hellfire, took a while for me to get all the parts I need to get it running. Have gone through about 3 tanks using the heat cycle method. Not sure how long I need to keep the break in period running? Its taking ages to do the break in, getting it up to 200F, drive for 2-3 mins, shut down, leave for about 5 mins... How many tanks do I need to do this for? Because even with foil wrapped around my engines head, it seems to be taking an age for the fuel to go down. Its using about 1/5th of a tank per 200F 2-3 min run. Is the Heat cycle supposed to last for several hours?!

Apart from that I am very happy, my rebuilt 4.6ho starts first time each time, very happy with it. And the car is driving very nicely so far, even though I'm still only on the break in. The 5955tg on the steering is very quick and positive, definitely what I was after. Do you think I should be ok with the servo saver tighten right up as it currently is or will even the 5955 break with no servo saver?

Great to hear you got your k4.6ho rebuilt. Its an ok engine for your HF and should last along time.
I used similar breakin on my 4.6 and os28 and both engines still strong. I ran them a little rich for 3 to 4 minutes up to a good temp then let them cool at bdc ( i had cooler air from my car aircon blowing on them to speed up the cool down process). I did this for about 10 times while slightly leaning out the hs needle. After this i ran the 4.6 fairly hard and all ok. I took a little longer with the os. For engines with a very tight pinch you do need to put a gallon or 2 through to ensure a good breakin.
You need to have the servo saver very tight to get decent steering from the hf, but you do risk stripping the servo horn, or as i did cracking the servo case(after a heavy hit). The servo saver does loosen by itself so keep checking it or even a dash of loctite.
Remember loctite alot of your screws or they will vibrate loose. Also keep an eye on the mid range needle as it has a tendency to loosen and fall out.
Go hard and let us know how it goes.
Craig.

I would use the servo saver..but tighten it down so that it will still give a little on a big impact..one more tip..use the Xray steering rack, It will even up your steering left to right.

I've not really noticed a problem with the steering yet, but I will look out for it. I have the Speedtech Nitro Caron deck and steering plate, not sure if that would help?

Also, I'm using an alloy servo horn, so I guess I should allow a slight movement at least on the servo horn because there are no real weak links now.

I have had a firestorm for a few months now, but even on break in, this hellfire, sounds, looks, handles and brakes like something else! I love it!

Here is a video:

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pl-H69lN5hQ

Is the tuning looking ok, its on its 5th tank and been heat cycled

is there a bigger fuel cell that would fit on the hellfire? or are we stuck with the 150cc tank

scrap that video, I've since had to rebuild the engine because I hadn't locite'd the screws in the cooling head. When I took the screws out loads of dirt fell in the engine so I had to strip it down before I ran it again. Whilst I did that I looked at the piston and sleeve, the sleeve had a mirror finish at the top end, and the piston had some slight wear at the upper edge too, was quite interesting to see them after they had bedded in together.

Anyway, I'm going to have to re tune it all now because I had added the two shims between the cooling head and the engine when there was already a pair there! I only noticed just now, so I have broken in my engine in with slightly lower compression I guess! I am assuming the engine will have a bit more power now I have the correct number of shims. Am I right?

I have a question that will sound dumb but I am new to all this.

I just got the HPI HellFire and ran the crap out of it! I noticed it was slowing down and now if you go full throttle it hardly moves. Kind of has a whining sound to it but it dont move fast. My first thought was the clutch but that was not the problem.

What happens when the front diff goes out?


Thanks for any help you can give

could be a number of things, when you go full throttle does the engine still rev high like it did new? If so then its probably a drive train issue, worn clutch, broken diffs etc. Best take it apart and look for yourself, that way you will learn a lot about your car and how it works, and the next time you need to fix anything it will be way easier!

engine is fine. I took the front end apart and it looks like the Bevel Gear is worn way down. If the bevel gear is worn down alot in the front BUT not the rear will this stop the car from moving??

possibly, I think the center diff distributes the power to the easiest end, if the front is spinning away freely, then the center diff work for the front only. The thinner the diff oil, the less chance your car will have of moving. Locking the center diff would make your car run in this case. Im not completely sure about it, but I think thats how diffs work. They distribute the engines power to the wheels that need it the most, and different diff oil thicknesses changes how much they do this

Thanks for the info. I just ordered rebuild kits for front/center/rear along with 2 new 10t bevel gears.

how much did all that cost?

When you replace the front and rear diff gears you should replace them with the HB LSP Pro gears. (ring and pinion) they are much stronger than the HPI gears..they will last 3 or 4 times longer than the stock gears.